TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART1 

That's what I've been guessing as well.

Oh and the cats out of the bag,,,Ive seen news 12's broad cast.

I thought the whole point of drill press vises is to avoid that very issue? O_O But yeah, yikes. Heavy gloves around fast rotating machinery is scary. :|

Long hair too!! About 40 years ago I was working as a machinist at an aerospace company. Management asked me to come out to the assembly department and make a set-up on a Bridgeport for an assembly worker. So I made the set up and left. About half an hour later I came back out to make sure the set up was okay and saw this woman with long hair bending over to get a closer look at the part she was milling and her hair was almost touching the spinning end mill. I screamed like hell then ran over and turned the machine off. I asked her if she would like to be scalped, and I wasn't nice about it either. Of course she went running to Management because I screamed at her. But Management took my side and she never worked on that machine again!! She never realized that I was trying to save her life that day.

@@ironcladranchandforge7292 I worked at a shop where a guy got his glove caught on a drill bit. Messed up his fingers, hand and forearm really bad. The way the man in this video is working a drill press (18:25 - not clamping and flicking of metal spirals off with a gloved hand) is really scary. Hope he doesn't get hurt, but I wouldn't count on it if he keeps using a drill press like that.

My first experience was with a coworker using a magnetic drill press on a radar tower girder. He got his gloved hand wrapped to his wrist while trying to clear some chips. Then hit the magnet power switch instead of drill power. Almost took him off the tower, luckily it had a short power cord. Complacency will maim/kill you, when safety is 3rd.

I was lucky and it was an old 1/3hp belt drive with a glazed belt that was way too loose. I was just barely able to over power it enough to keep my arm from getting wrapped up in it but found out the edges of the bit were sharp enough to cut through the leather glove and into my fingers with enough pressure. Happened quicker than a blink and I was able to hit the stop switch before the belt got grip

In industry the drag was always the bottom and had the guide pins, and the cope or top always had the female guides. Specific nomenclature like that makes it easier for people to communicate effectively in industry.

@@BorderlineForge-vf4bi I realize it's a touchy subject, but it was rhetorical, I was pokin fun.

Ok. Sorry, I don't mean to be pedantic.

@BorderlineForge-vf4bi No, I get all cringey with my sailing terms as well. And people who call car engines motors...

You need to watch some home foundry videos, like Myford Boy, to have it fully explained. But if the finished product has, say, a hole running through it that in the flask would be horizontal, say left to right, then of course you can't put that in the pattern as a solid bar (the flask of course needs solid sand where the casting isn't, and empty space where the cast iron needs to go, kind of a 'negative') - you'd never be able to withdraw the pattern from the sand, because it has sand around it on all sides. So you make a pattern with that whole section solid, so after withdrawal from the sand there's a big empty space, then after that, but before putting cope and drag back together, you place into that space a 'core' which represents the hole, which is effectively moulded sand - stiff enough to hold together (they used simple chemicals to cure it) but friable enough that, after casting, poking it hard with a screwdriver or something breaks it up, and it comes out much as the sand does, from the cast metal, leaving the desired hole. The core is kind of moulding sand that is put in after the pattern is taken out, to deal with the geometries that would otherwise be impossible. The pattern maker has to make both the pattern, and something that can be used to mould the core(s). Sometimes the geometry is such that the casting could be moulded without the feature, and the feature can be, say, drilled out afterwards, but that's a lot of machining, a lot of iron turned to swarf, a lot of weight in the casting contributing to handling and cooling issues, and if the geometry isn't as simple as a hole (like here), then it may be very hard indeed to machine the shape after casting, much easier to use a core and get the geometry needed straight from the casting.

@@thisnicklldo thanks for taking the time for explaining. In this particular piece is it easier/ cheaper / faster to cast the outside edge profile than to make the whole side oversized and mill down to the desired size. The rough casting will be milled to some degree anyway and since it is a one off I wonder where the saving is.

@@Pocketfarmer1 I don't know. Casting iron is a professional business, and I'm not a professional. But I'm guessing the real problem is not the post-casting machining, but the difficulty of pouring a big mass of iron, that will cool and shrink in the mould, and/or the difficulty of manipulating a flask with that much sand in it. This isn't pouring jelly (jello if you are American) at boiling point into a silicone mould the size of a basin from a kitchen jug, this is a big, big, lump, with a pouring temperature of 1400 centigrade (that's over 2500 F) - this is twice the temperature of aluminium, that you can see many amateurs pouring in their home shop. Note that Windy Hill Foundry is the real deal, and he doesn't have a flask big enough, or at least not big enough and the right shape. I don't know what the weight of the sand+iron will be, but making the flask strong enough to be lifted might not be possible in wood unless the iron weight is kept to a minimum. Bear in mind each of 3 sections of the flask has to be lifted (very carefully, so as not to disturb the sand), and turned to prepare the mould. And he needs to be sure that his pouring strategy, with vents and reservoirs and channels, allows the iron to get where it needs to, but such that no mass of iron is likely to shrink and ruin the casting - as a pro, he can't really afford to prepare one flask, pour it, see how it turns out, then do it all again several times until it works, he needs to get it right first time. Less iron to pour will make that a whole lot easier.

Memories of my dad, who was a pattern maker at Camerons in Livingston back then.

Thanks and we'll said👍

Damn right. I thought the same thing when he was just welding rust to rust. It's a one time use flask for a mold. Don't spend extra time fabricating unnecessary bs on a tool you're only going to use (hopefully) once.

Did you ever actually do something? Get a life.