Tally Ho Capstan Project: Machining the Internal Gear and Test Fitting the Chain Gypsy 

Jay Leno talks about; "What was made by hands, can be repaired/rebuilt by hands".

Aside from the grinders, chainsaws and fork lifts….

Many processes have been done the same way for thousands of years.

well said i can't add anything better... love your insights here

​​@@GhostOfCorkeyThat's a disingenuous comparison. The people who made Tally Ho had tools to help the humans that made it. The tools are just more efficient now. It's not like Leo is using AI and additive printing to restore his boat. You are being a See You Next Tuesday.

Why is dave the pattern guy crossed out? Is there some drama?

@@drspock3454 From listening between the lines, so to speak, my understanding is that the inside of the pattern was not smooth enough for how little draft it had, and the core parts were sized so that the cope was far too heavy. If the core parts (the whitish parts of the mold if you watched the video), had been about half as thick, the cope boxes would have been smaller, making it much easier to handle. They really only needed to be about 3/4" thick, not the >2" that they are. That probably added at least 100lbs to the mold. One of the other guys also mention he had to spend half a day smoothing out the interior of the mold, and there was a few comments about spending hours taping on it trying to get it to come free. It was clear from Dave's videos that he was pressed for time, and I think that caused a lot of problems.

@@joshua43214 It should be noted that Clarke nearly had a perfect part on the first casting. It came out a little short on the thickness on one side which was not up to WHF standards. Each time (6+) the pattern was rammed with sand it would scratch, scour, and abraid the mahogany which would make the removal from pattern from the sand more difficult. During the final pour the extra attention to make the pattern surface smooth paid off as well as the other adjustments to make it a success. Dave Clark also took some time to add draft and radii to the pattern to improve the original design. Overall the road to get a successful part had some bumps in the roads and things could have been done better especially if there was intent to make more than a one off part. Pointing a finger of blame at Dave Clark is in my opinion a bit unfair.

@@drspock3454 No, it's just this weird YT "editing" toolbox - whenever you "insert" a word or a sequence of them WITHIN normal dashes, AND without any space between the dashes and the immediately following/ preceding word you get this unexpected "cross-out" effect. In order to avoid this you have to insert a space between the dash and the word, or maybe use "long" dashes (not sure), but then English has these peculiar "rules" about using this or that dash for this or other purpose (apparently it's wrong to type "red-haired", you have to use a long dash, here, red-haired but then not being native English speaker I'm not 100% sure about this). FIY: underscores (_) italicise a word: _example_ - again, no spaces between the "coding character" and the word - also, other punctuation marks or line feed/ carriage return interfere with this "feature" - place a comma or full stop just next to the underscore, and you'll get this: _example_. Somehow quotation marks do not interfere with it: _"example"_ Asterixes (*) turn the word within them into bold text (semi-bold, I'd rather say): *example* - again, "as cautioned above". Apparently you can mix them too, but you have to "mirror" the sequence: _ * word * _ I introduced spaces intentionally so it'd show how it's done, here's the real *_example_* And the cross-out - -example- So, this is "why". And, oh, by the way - in case you're NOT interested, just ignore it altogether, and just don't read it ;-) Also, I can't "preview" this, and somehow my "examples" where I tried to show the coding, NOT the effect (so I made them "wrong way") appear messed up - they are neither "the effect" nor "the coding". But then it's YT's _advanced features_ for ya, unfortunately.

@@davidc6510 I did not point the finger at Dave, the OP did in a passive aggressive way. I just explained the issues with the pattern to another who asked. Even in the first video, you could tell Clark was unhappy with the pattern.

Keith should make a video of making a set of those, it would be a quick video but fun to watch.

Soft jaws or at least some contoured aluminum pads to prevent chewing up that soft bronze.

While I know absolutely nothing about machining, I suspect that will be achieved by the bedding compound that Keith mentioned.

I wonder how accurately made early winches actually were ? Clang clang clang knock clang

That might be so, but they weren't electrically driven through brass gears. When that windless was first installed on Tallyho's deck, it was human driven.@@davidyendoll5903

I was wondering if that ring gear needs to be clocked a certain way or if the drive gear makes up all the adjustment.

Mr Rucker has the capstan and will be machining that also

You can laugh, I have a Drummond round bed lathe built in the 1920s, still does the job for me and the Drummond company in England sent me a manual on request. I have only owned it for 6 years but can turn to size and cut imperial and metric threads which is about the limit of my skills. Love watching these highly skilled people doing this work. The greatest generation!

I love the A-game.

I hate being an arm chair machinist, honestly, but I just don't like that thin skirt and the thin material that joins it to the shaft. Everything tells me it's a liability. I know I am probably very wrong as I'm definately not capable of understanding the forces involved during use.

That thin wall does look a bit wimpy...

Or something in between, where expenses like shipping and materials are covered, but not labour.

I feel that costs are charged but the channels get more shared subscribers

Let us thank all the help Leo is getting to restore Tally Ho ; I sometimes wonder if she will be better than 'as new' when she gets launched , I am not sure .... , but we get to see crafts , skill and materials in the restoration and hopefully the sailing later on . Brilliant . There is another youtube channel which shows a castle being built with the tools and materials of its pretend period in history with the same intention .......take us back in time and maybe even relearning skills . Respect

I doubt these guys are doing this gratis, too many hours, needed tooling and materials.

Funny you should mention that. While working with a rough Machinist on catwalks for the Gantry crane manufacturer here in Huntsville for what are the launch sites there at Kennedy we had to hold a 32 of an inch tolerance over 115 and 3/4 ft and since the tape measure he was using was only a 50 footer and error creep was a factor, we use the same tape three times to measure the length, marking as we went. To prevent any compound errors I use my 25 ft tape in the other direction and the shop lead had a 200-foot architectural fiberglass tape. Needless to say it was an interesting proposition and everything worked out okay unfortunately for the inspectors they didn't have any tapes.

Having 50+ years as a boat systems builder, mechanic and technician, I'm wondering same thing ! I also have followed Leo and TallyHo since day 1.

@@mauricekeithjohnson2598 I would be looking at annual yearly full service, due to the fact of the composition of the metals used. Plus the interaction of salt water and electricity.

You must be kidding!

I agree 100%

Yeah, he should have checked the concentricity of the ring gear I.D. also.

I'm not a machinist, so If anyone else is feel free to correct me. As I understand it, each time you remove the part from the jaws you introduce the ability to have error when you put it back in. Once the part is lined up you can take the outside to the correct diameter, then face the front and both of these will be "square" to each other. If the part is taken out of the chuck, there's the possibility it can be put back in such a way that the front will be angled slightly or it might not be perfectly in "round". I'm sure with some parts there isn't a way to turn all the features in a single setup, so there are probably ways to get the part back on the lathe in a way where everything lines up. I'm pretty sure there are a couple ways of removing the little flange, but personal preference probably plays into it as well.