Tamiya Monster Beetle 2015 Re-release: Still Problems? Frog Universal Drive Shaft vs. Dogbone Test!

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So, the drive shaft problems with the original Tamiya Monster Beetle 1986 should be solved with the Monster Beetle 2015? Well it works, to a certain degree ...
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As I embarked on a long due editing of my first run thus summer with the Tamiya Monster Beetle 2015 Re-release (Tamiya 58618) I found a lot of other footage filmed just before that. Including this test, so I thought I would make it into a video and hear what all you good folks think of the new upgraded parts of the Monster Beetle?
Don't get me wrong. The reason it receives all this attention is solely because I love it so so much. It is such a pleasure to behold and running it was a great experience too. But it could have been nice to have both the drive shaft and the differential problem solved once and for all with the re-release. After all, Tamiya had 29 years to do it.
Got the idea to try out the Frog dogbones and wheel shaft from a discussion on Tamiyaclub. At least they worked better than the CVDs.
Next up we adress the stock differential and install a MIP Ball differential. And then we run it!
if you want to see some footage from the upcoming run I already uploaded a couple of unedited clips in 4K back in the summer time:
Take one: • Tamiya Tuesdays in 4K:...
Take two: • Tamiya Tuesdays in 4K:...
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Nordic RC Visions Statement:
This video features homemade footage of my own radio-controlled unit, the Tamiya Monster Beetle 2015 Re-release (Tamiya 58618), from my personal RC model collection. All rights reserved.

Опубликовано:

24 ноя 2017

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Комментарии : 101

@MarkBryanRC 6 лет назад

Great stuff as usual - you have really opened up an interesting discussion - I have enjoyed reading all of the ideas and opinions from your viewers! As you know, I've upgraded to the brat dogbones on my vintage Monster Beetle - no discussion needed there, soooo much better than the 1986 hex drives! However - I still had dogbones flying into the distance when landing from big jumps. So I reduced the rear suspension travel very slightly by adding a 1mm "bump Stop". This was placed where the small lug on the trailing arms stops up against the chassis. Sounds only a tiny difference but just reduces that drivetrain rumble you show in the video and a little less stress on the axles when suspension is fully extended. I'll let you know if the shafts still escape. Thanks for sharing, Nordic RC =)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Mark Bryan RC Thanks Mark! A comment from someone who has actually tested the dogbones in action is of tremendously value to this test/topic! Many thanks! I have pinned your comment for others to read. Valuable information about the dogbones! Even though the dogbones perform the best free spinning - I actually still use the CVDs in mine since they are securely attached and transfers power more directly. And they work okay when the tires/wheels have ground support. I’ll have to live with knowing that they bind when not planted on the ground :-)

@MarkBryanRC 6 лет назад

Thanks mate - you have started a great debate! This is a topic of interest to lots of Tamiya fans - hope my little input helps =)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Mark Bryan RC It certainly does!

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Mark Bryan RC And I recommend everybody who reads this to go check out your ‘Frankenstein’s Monster Beetle’ on your channel. What a beauty and one of a kind! And I like how you also showed the original 1986 drive shafts in your video, that I didn’t include in this test (because of the simple reason that they, in terms of durability, can’t come close to a comparison of either the dogbones or the CVDs).

@MarkBryanRC 6 лет назад

Many thanks for the plug - appreciated!

@tonyromano6220 Год назад

Ahh good a scientist to tell how to make this thing work!

@NordicRC Год назад

Ha ha, not a scientist! ☺️ But well, they work alright (the universal axles) when running. When holding it in the air the ride angle becomes too steep

@jesse1376 5 лет назад

I had a original mudblaster back in 1991. Backyard bashing with my best friend who also had a mudblaster. Great times! He had the MIP transmission with dogbones. I had the Robinson transmission with telescopic universal drive shafts. We both where constantly fighting with the transmissions but had such a great time. With a hot motor these things can really move, almost like the direct drive in a pan car. My last fight was a 17turn single trinity sapphire, went 0-100% throttle at a standstill and it spit both drive shafts out the back of truck. Great memories!

@NordicRC 5 лет назад

Sounds indeed like great memories! So cool you had one. We just built a Mud Blaster II. On a more modern chassis (basic set up originating from 1999) but still a cool retro feeling. The MIP diff was released after this re-release so maybe it was some other differential you had back then? But yes, they are great fun on even a 27T silver can so I bet they would fly with a 17! Thanks for sharing here, Jesse.

@jesse1376 5 лет назад

Oh thats right! We both had THORP ball diffs(not MIP) he had the regular dogbones. I had the telescopic universal drive shaft option. Wow its been so long since I have thought about this:)! Thats great on the Mud Blaster II, keep having fun!

@Iamfirebird360 Год назад

I watched this 4 times just for the music.

@NordicRC Год назад

Hi Patrick! Uhh, nice. Can’t remember which music I used. Maybe I need to rewatch it too 😅

@SyndicateRC 3 года назад

So I finished my Monster Beetle build today and had the same issue, good to see that it seems to be normal. Thanks for the video.

@NordicRC 3 года назад

Hope you had a good build. Yeah, always a problem with Universal Axles on vehicles with a sharp drive shaft angle. But it works okay as long as the wheels are on the ground and the angle minimized.

@AMPROEngineering 6 лет назад

So...you know how we are working on an MIP ball diff for the Hotshot? Well...if that is a success there is a plan for telescopic universals!

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

As I told you elsewhere ... that would solve everything for me and I would have the Monster Beetle I wish I had :-) I hope it will be a success. I might even buy a Hotshot diff even though I do not have a Hotshot diff (yet) just to better the chance of getting new axles for my MB :_)

@RedLP5000S 6 лет назад

Please make that happen! My MB dogbones continue to pop out of the MIP diff. They're not long enough for full travel.

@Laterilus1 6 лет назад

RedLP5000S, read my previous post in another thread here. Just get the re-re frog dogbones you see in this video and you will be set. They stay in the MIP ball diff perfectly.

@nfarc7542 6 лет назад

I want a set of telescopic CVD's for the MB/BF!

@RedLP5000S 6 лет назад

Well, Hot Shot Diff is out now, so can we expect the telescopic universals? PLEASE?

@RcNickster709 6 лет назад

Definitey seems to run smother with the new drives. Thanks for sharing this tip.. Thumbs up.. :)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

RcNickster No problem. I got the tip elsewhere. I run mine with the CVDs still though. Works fine unless the rear comes fully suspended and tires looses touch with the ground. Thanks for watching, RcNickster.

@mst3kpimp 6 лет назад

you should have seen all the the hex dogbones i stripped in the 80's, i finally had to put spacers in the rear shocks so they would never angle out enough for them to strip.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Yeah, I can imagine. I never actually had an original myself back then but heard a lot about those hex dogbones. That's the astonishing thing Tamiya does: They have something that doesn't work, make a rerelease, change it and make another thing that doesn't work. At least the universal axles on the new doesn't break easily like the old hex dogbones, but in order to make it work one still has to lower the angle considerably. The Frog dogbones as shown in this video actually work better.

@RobertNES816 5 лет назад

I was just going to post this same comment lol. I stripped out dozens of those stupid hex drive shafts lol. The beetle was fine with the stock 540 motor. But me being me I wanted a faster motor, so I installed a Trinity Monster Horsepower Motor and well that ended up turning into a costly issue lol.

@danielelosurdo7372 5 месяцев назад

i had an original frog many years ago , then when i bought the rerelease frog, i noticed the rerelease model had weaker drive shafts,weaker rear shocks

@NordicRC 5 месяцев назад

It have? Strange choice for Tamiya indeed. But Tamiya really works in mysterious ways :-)

@BasBoyRC 6 лет назад

I was thinking as had the same issues as it's alright on the ground. But here's a thought that has just come to me as the problem seems to be the angle of the CVD's . What if you put a 2 or 3mm spacer in the shocks just to shorten them a little to keep the angle down on the CVD's.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Basildon Trail Blazing Buddies Yeah, good idea, and I’ve seen people do it, but I sort of thinks it changes the classic Monster Truck look if it gets too low. One has to shorten the ride height quite a bit too lessen the angle. But it’s definitely one way to sort it out, since the CVDs work great with lesser angle. Thanks for the comment and watching, bro.

@themachine8842 3 года назад

I’ve done it and it doesn’t shorten it hardly at all. I put two o rings and the large and small damper spacer on the inside and I put a small spacer and two O rings on the outside combined gives you spacers and bump stops. If you look at the maximum swing of the rear trailing arm it hits the chassis at its end points both when it’s up and when it’s down. When it’s down it’s hyperextended and the driveshaft dogbone end is far to far out the cup slot. Reducing the damper length by 3mm not only stops the swing arms hitting the chassis, it cushions the dampers and provides the perfect position for the drive train and shafts and it doesn’t look low or out of style. I have two MBs so I had a side by side comparison as I did the mod/adjustment. They now both run perfectly

@wernerracingteam 6 лет назад

Super Tipp! 👍👍👍♥ Danke

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Werner Racing Team No problem. I got the tip elsewhere and just sharing it :-) Thanks for watching, Werner.

@Pablo668 5 лет назад

This actually got a lot worse when I fitted the MIP ball diff to my MB. I restricted shock travel but it didn't help much. Actually put the old diff back in. Might try again using the dogbone set up.

@NordicRC 5 лет назад

Ahhh, yeah. Well, I actually run it with the MIP diff and the stock universal axles. A bit of rumble and tumble when lifting it, but with ground support it does okay. But the best solution would definitely be the MIP diff combined with some telescopic axles.

@madcat7777777 6 лет назад

nice invention and nice tip! :-)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Thanks! Not an invention of mine, but saw the tip on tamiyaclub and tried it out and shared it here :-)

@ShenRC 6 лет назад

Nice video, I was thinking are you sure the CVD's dog bone ends the pin are not just binding bottoming out in the dog cup grove and are to tight long? if so could you take a washer out of the system making more play for the CVD? and if you can't if it is the problem maybe you can use a moto tool with a cut off wheel and just make the drive cub grove a little deeper to solve the problem if it is the dog bone pins binding that is. =)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Shen RC Thanks, Steve! I must admit that I haven’t really wondered about any mods, since changing to some cheap dog bones and wheel axles solved the problem :-)

@ShenRC 6 лет назад

Yea but CVD's are really better =)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Shen RC yeah, and I must admit I’m still running mine with the CVDs ;-) ... since it is not exactely a race car and I’m not doing any serious jumping with it the tires/wheels are almost all the time supported by the ground where the CVDs work okay. But I think I will try to have a look at your suggestions next time I have the MB in my hands. Thanks Steve.

@RCTAHITI 6 лет назад

great thank you ; )

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Yeah the dogbones work better :-) Thanks for watching!

@Laterilus1 6 лет назад

Nordic RC, what is your opinion on the CVDs with the MIP ball diff? I recently changed over to the ball diff as any motor hotter than the stock one would destroy my gear diff. Reminds me of my first Monster Beetle when I was a kid with the Thorpe Dirt Burners ball diff. Problem I'm having though is the MIP outdrives. The CVDs are popping out of the outdrives all the time. It doesn't even need to jump to cause them to pop out. The stock ones prevent this somewhat due to being able to slide in and out of the stock gear diff. The MIP ones obviously don't move. I'm glad I happened upon this video showing the re-re frog dogbones. I quickly bought a set off ebay and I'm patiently awaiting for them to arrive. I'm guessing to fully overcome the dogbones ejecting from the rear will require some shock o-rings stuffed into the MIP outdrives and the axle outdrives to keep the dogbones centered when the rear of the car flexes from steering or jumping. It will be a fine line - I need to keep the dogbones from ejecting, but I can't add so much into the outdrives or else it will bind the suspension if the dogbones can't move freely. I'm with you, I would prefer CVDs, but they can't be used at all with the MIP diff and I want to use hotter motors. The truck itself can handle it and I've been having a blast with it like I did when I was a kid. Would have been nice if MIP copied Thorpe's old design where you could replace the stock dogbones with telescoping shafts. That's how my Thorpe ball diff came for my original truck. Those were bombproof. I'll report back here if I find a good solution using the re-re frog dogbones with the MIP diff.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Such an interesting comment! Enjoyed reading it. I’ve actually not had any problems with the universal axles popping out, but I haven’t been running it at anything else than flat terrain. So they stay put. For me the problem is not the MIP diff, but the universal axles. They just doesn’t do the job with the extreme angle of the Big Wheel ORVs/Monster Beetle. If I remember correctly they where made for the Frog originally? Probably works much better in a buggy. But I still use mine. They seem stable enough when the wheels are touching the surface. But as you said, the only real solid and complete solution is the Frog dog bones ... and then a perfect balance of o-rings or something else. Or better yet, wait for MIP to make some telescope driveshafts ... ? I’ve heard rumours that it might happen but I’m not sure :-)

@Laterilus1 6 лет назад

Wouldn't that be nice? Not sure if MIP is going to make telescoping shafts or not. I get the feeling that they discontinued the ball diff. A few online shops are still waiting to get more ball diffs in and I can't seem to get a reply from MIP. I was able to get one from rcmart.com, but their stock is out now and their website now says it is discontinued. I'm still waiting for a response from MIP. I think you are correct that the CVDs made the most sense on the frog buggy. I shortened the droop of my Beetle by taking those spacers on the shock shafts and putting them on the inside of the shock body, but to no avail. The CVD bones still pop out of the MIP outdrives easily - well, easily where I'm driving it. Yes, if I'm on flat terrain in my back yard or street, all is well, but there is a large open dirt field where new houses are being developed nearby me and my son and I are driving our trucks out there. It is a blast. Nothing makes me feel like a kid more than driving a Tamiya Monster Beetle in a rough dirt field watching the rear tires kicking up a cloud of dirt! The suspension works surprisingly well (although I'm gonna change it to the aftermarket kit with different oil and adjustable pistons to dial it in better). My only problem is the CVD bones. I'll be driving along and the suspension is keeping up with all the dirt bumps, then I just hear the rev of the motor while my Beetle slows down to a stop.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Laterilus1 Ahh, yeah, such a thing can really take the fun out of it if it is repititive and the frequence is high. Surprised they do that even when you have lowered it a bit. I didn’t even know MIP sold it other where else than on their home page. But I guess you’re maybe right about their interest in Tamiya after market parts doesn’t seem very high. Maybe because sales aren’t high. But I’m still hoping for a solution from them :-)

@Laterilus1 6 лет назад

Ok, I wanted to have at least 10 batteries through the MIP ball diff and the re-re frog dog bones, and I can now say its been a huge success! I thought I was going to need to use shock o-rings in the outdrives, but those actually took up too much space. You don't have to use any spacing to keep the dog bones in place, but I went ahead and shimmed the axles inwards 0.25mm just to be sure since the rear trailing arms can flex away from the chassis a lot. Anyways, I haven't had one dog bone pop out since changing to the re-re frog bones, and this is with using a 4300kv motor. I've also noticed better suspension movement and handling. The ORV chassis just doesn't work with CVD's. CVD length needs to be matched to suspension travel. Long travel needs long CVDs and vice versa. The long travel suspension of the ORV with short CVDs is just too much binding. The dog bones can move freely across the entire range and actually give a smoother feel to the car. One of those few spots where the dog bones work better than the CVDs. Anyways, just wanted to tell everyone about my results in case there are others looking to use the MIP ball diff and fast motors.

@shannonnufer Год назад

So I came across your video when I was looking for a fix for this same problem. I upgraded my frog to the MIP ball differential, then installed the CV axles per suggestion of everyone I spoke to. I was really hoping not to have dog bones falling out anymore since I upgraded to the CV style. Well I still tend to lose the left axle at the outdrive cup every time the car rolls or takes a jump and yes I have the same problem with the chattering or clicking. What can we do to resolve this problem without going back to the stock dog bones? At least with a stock Dogbone set up you could shim the outdrive cups, I did put some shims in the axle bearings pushing the dog bones a little closer to the outdrives but it’s not really fixing the problem.

@NordicRC Год назад

Not sure what could be done, since you already have the Frog which doesn’t have the trouble of the steep angle like this one. Maybe some locked turn buckles?

@StankoPerko 6 лет назад

I really like my MB but hate its geartrain. Good tipp.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

StankoPerko Thanks, I got the tip elsewhere. But yeah, one should suspect 29 years was enough time for Tamiya to sort out all the problems with the drive shafts and differential. But no :-)

@ecto1a2003 6 лет назад

my dogbones pop out all the time. I added a double wishbone suspension setup from ampro engineering and it definitely helped but didn't cure the issue. i feel that telescoping shafts are the real solution here.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

ecto1a2003 Yeah, I think the CVDs where designed originally for the Frog and Brat (smaller wheels/tires) and Tamiya just popped them on the re-release without any tests :-) Thanks for watching, mate.

@miniRCSports 6 лет назад

cool video

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

mini RC Sports Thanks, brother!

@Remoteaddicted 6 лет назад

Great upgrade/fix. Next upgrade is brushless? 😁

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Ha ha, no brushless on this one, just a new differential and it's good to go :-) Thanks for watching, bro.

@d_n_r_rc_racing2449 5 лет назад

I just called Tamiya about this same issue. Their customer service wasnt very helpful and told me to do all the things I have tried such as limiting shock travel etc. Seems they know this is an issue but dont want to do much about it. Are the frog dogbones compatible with the mip diff?

@NordicRC 5 лет назад

Yeah, it's kinda the usual story with Tamiya. Sometimes they choose to ignore an issue completely. It's strange. I haven't tried the dig bones with the MIP diffs, but officially the diff is only compatible with the universal axles. I just chose to run it with the universal axles, works fine when there is ground support, when it sits/runs on the ground which pushes it down a bit. WIll be a real problem in jumpos, but I do not plan to jump this one too hard :-)

@captainchaos3053 2 года назад

As you determined it's the extreme angle that causes the problem. I think a set of droop screws would go a long way to resolve the problem. I would also look into the possibility of longer arms that would increase the track at the rear end so would requite longer drive shafts but should help reduce the severity of the angle. But perhaps someone like ampro could do it better. I mean I only built race cars for about 25 years or so. However if you increase the rear track you may need adjustments at the front end to avoid steering issues. With all that said a shorter shock would probably do th job. Anyway good video.

@NordicRC 2 года назад

Yeah, some droop screws or maybe reduce the shock travel. But the car’s ride height would also be minimized that way.

@NordicRC 2 года назад

And thank you!

@captainchaos3053 2 года назад

@@NordicRC yeah I guess the ground clearance would suffer and unless bigger wheels are an option which would probably ruin the gearing it's a real puzzle what's the best way to deal with it.

@alerossi8564 6 лет назад

In the new Monster beetle are included the same ''universal frog drive shaft'' up ops part ?

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

The new Monster Beetle comes with the universal axles. I think it originally was a hop-up option for the Frog. The Frog dogbones in this video I bought seperatly afterwards.

@Arbojnr 3 года назад

Great video! I've just completed my build for my 9 year old son (that's what I told the wife). Anyway...all works well but when the car comes to a stop the rear tyres lick up. Everything is fine on the radio and I don't think the wheels are on too tight. Is this a "quirk" or have I done something wrong? Any advice much appreciated. Thanks :)

@NordicRC 3 года назад

Hi David. I have no idea what ‘the rear tyres lick up’ means, sorry (English isn’t my first language). But I’ve had no trouble with the rear tyres myself, or heard about any similar issue before this.

@Arbojnr 3 года назад

@@NordicRC ha! Sorry - my fault. The rear tyres lock up. When no throttle is applied and the car slows down - the rear just locks up and it skids. I can't seem to fix it :)

@MarkBryanRC 3 года назад

@@Arbojnr Sounds like it could be your ESC that is applying auto brake or "drag brake" when the throttle is released - it might be worth checking the settings. :)

@nfarc7542 6 лет назад

I'll be honest, at this point we are putting lipstick on a pig of a drivetrain. I am looking at what is needed to put a Traxxas transmission in at this point with the Traxxas axles. The ORV will never handle well, but for many like myself, it is a nostalgia thing as I had a MB new in 1986. But it's terrible drivetrain forced me to learn how to fix stuff at least! I just want to make it a reliable ill-handling machine at this point!

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Yeah, ha ha. Putting lipstick on a pig of a drivetrain :-) The new MIP diff actually works great and I think it is a lot more durable than the original. Now MIP just needs to fix the axle problem. Think the only solution is telescopic axles like in most Traxxas vehicles :-)

@martinneps9387 3 года назад

Now this front and is the same as a king Blackfoot Front in right or is it different

@NordicRC 3 года назад

Never owned a King Blackfoot sorry.

@mrjesperklausen 6 лет назад

I have driven mine a few times, and haven’t had any problems with them popping out. I am driving the stock universals and MIP diff. I have driven it both on and offroad without problems. Maybe I have just been lucky.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Jesper Klausen He he, don’t think you have tested it like this, Jesper :-) Try it and see. I run mine with the stock CVDs and with the MIPs we got. There are no shafts popping out or anything like that. And I guess one wouldn’t notice the problem just running with too many variables. The ground support stabilizes everything. But I bet the problem, logically, is still there when the tires loose touch with the ground and fully suspended. And that will be an issue that just shouldn’t be there.

@mrjesperklausen 6 лет назад

You have a point. Had a look at it today, and it does the same as yours, when held of the ground. Drives fine when on the ground, so guess it just needs to stay planted.

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Jesper Klausen Yeah, no off road race track runs with these axles :-) But I guess that would be silly anyway, so I have left the CVDs on it too and can live with some extra rumble and tumble when a tire/wheel looses ground support. Maybe it just ads to some extra fun ;-)

@mrjesperklausen 6 лет назад

Well guess these things are part of our Tamiya passion. To be honest, if we wanted performance, Tamiya wouldn’t get all our play money ;o)

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Jesper Klausen Ha ha, so true and well said :-)

@ackertube83 3 года назад

could it be that the choice of a cardan joint itself is source of the problem, as it´s not homocinetic ? anyone now if Rzeppa joints or similar pieces are available in that size (maybe from other models)?

@carboncubss 2 года назад

will any frog UDS work?

@NordicRC 2 года назад

The ones that comes with the MB re-release are the Frog universal axles. I suspect they work great with the Frog - due to the smaller wheels/tires and a less angle of the shafts.

@GTMatukka 5 лет назад

Oh my.. I had my first issue with MB. The rear left axle popped out and broke the cv joint boot. Anyone had this issue?

@NordicRC 5 лет назад

Uhh, no. Such a shame. Hope you will get it fixed. But yes, I can imagine the universal axles causing a lot of trouble with the angle they are in.

@GTMatukka 5 лет назад

@@NordicRC It's working now. Had to order few new joint boots from Tony's Tamiya Parts as a spare ones. So is the problem caused by the rear arms flexing too much on certain bumps? I tried to bend the arms carefully but i didn't manage to get the axle pop from it's place 🙄

@rubenmartin7759 6 лет назад

I've got a problem in and old Traxxas car. And the main reason is my wheels are moving so much front and back. You know, the normal movement is up and down as the the shock, this little gap of movement make my car noisy and real strange. Whe solved adding metal little spacers(dont know English name sorry but this for nuts). Specially in a off-road car this little gap make a lot of problems. I try to explain in my basic English hope someone can take profit. If the problems continue check the movement of the wheels in all directions if the flex no problem but if move without flexing.... I think there's material goes wild🤣😂in my case or the stock arms are not fit so well by factory out assembly. Maybe alu/teflón arms gives you less gap or maybe the problem is in the arm catcher. I really hope this help anyone! Sorry about my English and have a good time with your rc. The rc I told I fix that way is a Traxxas on road very old. Its so old that comes with dtm white and orange opel calibra body. But steel running and never stop fighting to fix his problems, it's my best birthday present of all times, now maybe 20 years ago.

@rubenmartin7759 6 лет назад

OK the name is washer I put in Google translate. In my case it's so difficult to find new arms so I have to do that, I dislike this none profesional repair but I have no choice. I glue the washer to arm and the car improves a lot! Sorry maybe you car is perfect in that problem. I be pretty sure that you check all of this cause I se you have knowledge enough , but I just want to share for help someone. My car is nitro so the clutch I think is worst in this situation. I love this remake car and also the red buggy really nice buy, man! Sure you get the performance you searching for!!!!😘

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Ahh, yeah washers can do wonders. It’s a good fix and can be helpful when there’s too much play. With this it’s more the angle of the drive shafts/universals. The only real solution is to install free-moving shafts (dogbones), or lower the angle (which means a new appearance and lower ground clearence) or the best solution: telescopic drive shafts.

@krisby1 4 года назад

I'm confused. Why are their CVDs in a rere monster beetle? I'm assuming you put them in yourself, as the rere comes with dogbones anyway. Atleast mine did, and they suck. Slightly too short, so pop out without much provocation. Need to get some slightly longer ones.

@NordicRC 4 года назад

Uhh, never heard about a Monster Beetle re-release that came with dog bones. Mine came with the universal axles and so did all others I have seen. Very strange.

@austinrastall4878 6 лет назад

My first rc was the same but a black foot

@NordicRC 6 лет назад

Yeah, same chassis. Cool you had it back then. I like the looks of the Blackfoot a lot too! Thanks for watching!

@mabojha5173 2 года назад

質問、失礼します。こちらの部品、海外製でしょうか？

@bestamerica 3 года назад

' i put the 540 motor on the left side in tamtrax car

@NordicRC 3 года назад

Nice!

@ackertube83 3 года назад

My monster Beetle started to show this behavior after a while. I found out that the gearbox joint suffered strong abrasion so i replaced them (TA-19808070). Now it works fine, the rumble is almost gone. I show the problem in detail here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kD-B5kD1M1o.html may this help some of you to find the source of their problem. If someone knows were to find a hardened version of the gearbox joint i´d be interested.

@NordicRC 3 года назад

Hi. Different problem here I am afraid (all parts are practically brand new) and the problem is with the universal axles