Japan was prohibited from making arms after WWII, funny how Tamiya, a japanese company became the the best at making WWII models for American kids during the 80s.
i built this same model some months ago, t i didn't paint it though, i was scared to ruin it since it was my first model, though, i'll buy a new one soon, a panzer 3 and i'll try to paint it this time, i'm still scared to ruin it but i gotta start from somewhere
If it goes wrong with (acrylics paint) spray it with oven cleaner and put it in a bag for a hour or more. Then you can gently brush the paint off. I highly recommend using an airbrush. If you don't want to apply a camouflage you should be all right.
Welcome to the Dark Side.....hahaha....being a Tread Head modeler is contagious. Good,no lid construction on the Tiger. Looking forward to seeing the paint phase. Keep having fun. Bill.
The poly cement should work fine but if you have paint on the plastic it will not work as well. The glue works best when the plastic is clean. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Thank you for this, Mr. Nerd. Two questions from a new guy. You would use super glue on the intake pipes because it isn't a plastic on plastic weld? Everyplace else I have watched/read people use Tamiya extra-thin but you (and a few others) use the Revell blue bottle with the metal pointy thing--why? Personal preference?
I would use superglue yes, if it's not styrene like the kit plastic then I always use superglue instead of poly cement. I now use extra thin poly cement because it is much neater to use on models. I hadn't discovered it when I made this video but now is the go-to glue for building kits. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
If you put the tools on the model and then paint them you get a better bond with the glue. Most of the tools are accessible once attached anyway and it's more stable to paint with them on the hull. This was the first armour model I made though so a better version once I new what I was foing a bit more is here. Might be a better watch for the finer details lol. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i3Cra5Qc4cs.html
You really don’t use a lot. But I would recommend Tamiya or AK extra thin cement since it’s a lot easier and cleaner to use. The thicker cement like the revell is no way near as good once you’ve used one of the others
Ahh I'm with you. The cap can be removed so a refill would be possible I guess yes. You're right, the Tamiya only do brush applicators, not the needle ones like this
Can I ask you some questions? I'm currently building this kit. In section 18 of the ibstructions you assemble the too of the turret with its hatches etc. The part F33 is shown "floating in mid air" next to part A45. What do they mean, where is F33 supposed to go?
I can't honestly remember what I did. But looking at the instructions I presume it's an option between the F45 and F33 part dependent on what version of the tank you're making. I went with F45 I think. Although having said about the option its not clearly stated to be so, so it's a bit of an educated guess
@@TheInnerNerd ok, I'll look into that but as you say, there is no mention of it being an option in the instructions, and in all other cases where there are multiple options, this is clearly stated.
There was a ventilator here and part A45 is the guard cover on top of it. When the tank was configured to go underwater, a waterproof lid was attached to seal the opening. Part F33 represents that. You would sometimes see F33 attached to a tank just to keep it out of the way, but when they were going into action it would have to be removed.
Hello and welcome to the hobby! I woukld suggest to start with some simple tools. Some Snips, 800 -1200 grit sand paper, Extra Thin Poly Cement, Small clamps. As far as paints go you might want to start with a brush. Airbrushing will always be superior in my opinion but takes time and money to get right and if you're just starting out might be a little too deep to start with. I'd try Tamiya acrylics and some of their X-20A thinner. Thin the paints and brush on with a flat brush nice and thin. That'd be my suggestion to start and get to grips with modelling. It's a lot of trial and error to get thing riht but I hope my videos can help you along with your modelling journey. Good luck and thnaks for watching :)
Hi I'm quite new to model kits just bought this. Is there a part two where u paint it? Is it safe to assemble everything to this point and paint after that? Thanksss
Hello and thank you for watching :) The paint video is here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ol4wPVVDo2U.html Yes it is okay to assemble up until this point and then start to paint. The accessories can be hand painted in afterwards so it's best to assemble as mcuh as possible prior to painting :) Hope it goes well! Also if you're interested in one of my more recent (and better) tanks model videos try this one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i3Cra5Qc4cs.html
My other question is regarding the five little "launchers" or S Mines that you put on the hull. The two designated (b) don't seem to fit very naturally!?! This is in section 15 in the instructions.
Yes I had the same issues to so I decided not to fit them. I'm actually unsure of the fitment of these and couldn't work it out for myself either. Sorry to be of no help but I agree with what you say, they aren't naturally fitting anywhere
ALMIGHTY LOAF Yes all Tamiya kits are good for building, they go together so easily and the instuctions are always clear. For airbrush practice just try on a piece of scrap card etc. Try different spray patterns/distances/thinning ratios etc. You will soon got used to it!
The instructions state to glue the wheels. But if you want to make rubber bushes the wheels would be able to spin if the driveshaft is thinned to allow for the bush
Quickly scanning throught the instructions I can't find part B19. I've found B17 & B18, but not 19. The instructions are available here if you'd like to double check. Sorry I can't help much more that this but good luck and thanks for watching www.scalemates.com/products/img/8/5/8/129858-26-instructions.pdf
"Early" Tigers (the ones with a tall cupola) had no place to put a machine gun on the cupola. Photographs do not show any examples of ad-hoc mounts created by the crews.
fun fact : revell is older than tamiya revell started in 1943 los angeles or germamy and tamiya started in 1946 japan trumpeter started in 1995 china academy started in 1969 s korea italeri started in 1962 italy zvezda 1990 moscow russia
There's a long list but this video I have made may help you choose some tools for yourself. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W3zDmJwpPcY.html&lc=Ugyt6_VzbqHq6DC35lV4AaABAg
Hi, I really enjoyed your video on the Tamiya1/35 Tiger 1.I was wondering if it's possible in the very near future if you could please remove the music and add some narration and BTW Thank you for not including timelapse photography. I much prefer to see more step-by-step and detail instructions. You see I'm a true beginner and I never built a kit before when I was a teenager my mom always said that plastic model kits were nothing but toys and she didn't want me to ruin the tables. So you see I need some help. Sincerely Allan
I built this exact model from Tamiya around 1974 0r 75, It was Battery operated (Optional) and used 1 D cell battery, I still to this day have that battery in the model, Should remove before it ruins the model.
No, according to new research, it could not. Only a couple of dozen Tigers were painted in Dunkelgrau, and they were all slightly earlier versions than this. Tamiya tell you to paint it grey but they are mistaken. See tiger1.info/EN/Grey-Tigers.html
Unfortunately not no. You need glue for all the parts. Poly cement isn't expensive though and lasts way longer than just one kit. I recommend Tamiya extra thin poly cement for vehicles to get the best fit and basically no witness from the glue showing
The term "initial production Tiger" refers to Tigers with no hatch on the turret side. This model kit doesn't build "initial production", it builds "early production". You didn't explain what "late" gear you are talking about. Looking at the video briefly, I don't see any.
The only problem I had with this kit was that the air filter tubes frayed at the end, so it looks kinda bad, and I accidentally cut the intake tubes too long, but I can’t change it now :(
Yes they do easily frey. It's best to seal them with some superglue so that you can get them fitted without any problems - something I though of after I'd built this one. Thanks for watching :)
Hello. I'm not sure of the track since I did this video a long time ago and don't keep a record. I get my music from Epidemic sound and use composers such as Howard Harper-Barnes and David Celeste. Maybe they may have done this one? Sorry I can't help further but thanks for watching :)
Tamiya xf60 mixed with 40 per cent buff. Tiger 131, Tamiya xf 60 mixed with 10 per cent dark brown and a bit of white. And 30 per cent stripes of Tamiya NATO green mixed with some grey and tamiya xf60 dark yellow.
The colour depends on the markings that you choose. Most Tigers of this type were painted in two "tropical" colours - Tiger "131" in Bovington museum is a great example of this. But many others were painted in plain "Dunkelgelb" which is tan. And, those were just the original colours. When the tanks were in use, their units could repaint them in various ways, such as all white.
Hello and welcome to the hobby :) You can get the glues I used from most model/hobby stores. If you're in the UK I suggest www.oxtedmodelcentre.co.uk/ They have a great range of tools and equipment and Pete, the owner, is a modeller himself so has a great knowledge of the best tools you'll need to get going. Hope this helps and good luck!
I recommend Tamiya or AK Interactive Extra Thin Poly Cement. These are far better than the thicker poly cement from Humbrol or Revell. Thanks for watching :)
I apologise for not showing that part. I assumed that the push fit would be pretty straight forward to follow in the instructions. Since there are so many I didn't want to waste viewers time on such an easy step
lindebr try 1/48. Or 1/72. Or even 1/100. 1/35 is quite simply the middle ground. Not too big. Not too small. And the price is worth it unlike those massive 1/16 or 1/8 models. I don't have $500 to spend on every model I make. To each their own though.
