I built that very model 30+ years ago. It was my first good one. I used wax to create mud snow and painted over. In those days it was pretty good. By Plasmo and other's standards like your's here today it was pretty basic if competent. Ah memories!
my favourite tank amazing work again so gifted and talented just bought myself some models after watching you hope one day I can be like you your brilliant videos will help me a lot thank you 👍🏻☺️
Thank you. I also have another video on Winter Camouflage used on a Sherman, that came out more realistic than this one so might be worth looking at too! Thanks for watching and good luck! :)
Not only was the Build impressive... the Music relayed the DEADLY EFFECTIVENESS of this equipment..! I would hate to have been on the receiving end of these Tank Crews..!!
The track is supposed to have sags. Also this S04 tank’s base color is RAL 7028. The dark yellow with hairspray chipping technique would be more suitable to have it done that way. Anyway it’s a great build! Highly recommended
15:18 При покраске идентичной краской учитывайте способы затёртости покраски,когда танкисты держатся за люк и возле него.Особенно зимнего окраса касается.И дульный тормоз при зимнем окрасе быть весьма тёмным(периодическая чистка орудия банником и после продолжительных стрельб) должен
it's hard to explain in words but you need constant air pressure and a very faint pull on the airbrush trigger (on a dual action type airbrush). Then keep the airbrush moving in a squiggle pattern to make the random patches. I have covering it in more detail here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W3zDmJwpPcY.html but in my next video I will try to explain even more. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
overall a very nice, clean build and good kit despite its age. critique about the soot around the grills though. would there be any since the grills are for the the radiators ? they are for intake of cool air and not output?
Awesome job !!!! Just came across this video I’m building this tank right now and I want to make it to Michael Whitman’s S04..... I see you used a black base And did the marble with the white..... according to the instructions the white was placed on top of dark yellow do you have any idea what color the base of this tank was If not I’m just gonna copy you
Thank you! It's a great kit and I hope you have a lot of fun building it. Yes you're right it was over a dark yellow. Its my mistake that I went ahead and did this over a black base - I got a bit excited and just went for it since this was the early days of my modelling
9:32 При сборке шахматной подвески должен звучать фольклор танкистов Вермахта,которым они награждали каждый раз конструкторов Хеншель и самого Эрвина за столь замысловатый строй опорных колёс..
I looks like you had a very good time building that, and did a fantastic job. It would be a shame to waste all that expertise on aircraft again. Come over to the dark side luke.
Intresting note about the tank that was used for the propaganda photos of Wittmann's tank. It wasn't his tank. His was being repaired and was not available so the kill rings which were painted on another tank instead and the photos were taken never showing the numbers on the sidd of the tank being used. The kill rings were only a propaganda thing .
The tank is designed for static display only so you might struggle getting it to move. The only solution I can think around gluing the wheels is to get some small rubber bushes and press fit the wheels on
are you using acrylic or enamel? I personally think i rather have enamel paint so it does not melt when touched or if you want to wash off the dust? i am a starting modeller please let me know
I'm using acrylic's on this one. To protect the paint when removing oil washes use the opposing clear coat. So for acrylic washes use enamel clear and vise versa. This will stop the thinner in the washes reacting with the paint since they use different mediums as a base (water vs enamel thinner). If you use enamel paints, clear and washes then the thinners in each wil eat into the previous layer. My method is paint in acrylic, clear lacquer/acrylic and then weather in enamels. This way the acrylic/lacquer clear will protect the paint against the enamel thinners.
Thank you! So here’s the answer... deep breath... 1. Base/prime your model in black 2. Thin your paint down to around 60% paint and apply a random covering to create layer number 1. This is the roadmap for the following layers. Keep the airbrush close to the model (between 1/1.3 inches) and the spray pattern tight. The looser the spray pattern the more gaps will appear showing the black beneath. 3. With the same paint, apply layer number 2. With this layer try and fill in the gaps from layer 1 as well as cover it to build the colour. Go over the entire model until the paint looks more opaque. 4. Same paint again. Fill in the gaps made when spraying both layers 1 & 2 as well as the other areas to build up a more full looking colour. Now the paint should look relatively uniform but with some random areas of darker and lighter tones made by the gap filling of the previous layers. 5. Thin the paint to around 50%. Then, from a distance, carefully spray in a uniform pattern over the entire model to blend the marble layers together. The even paint coverage will tone down the light and dark spots to make a more uniform paint opacity with a few light and dark areas showing through. 6. If this is still too varied, repeat step 5 again until you get what you are after And breath. Hope this helps and good luck!
This may sound stupid but I am not understanding the colors you are using...# 33 means nothing to me. Can you clarify please ? I am not trying to be an ass but I just don't understand the brand or color numbers. I mostly use Vallejo
When you do the brown wash, what are you using to take it off with? (The cotton bud thing) thinners?Good build and painting, one of the best I've seen.
I believe so yes, I assume that all the tools will have been a standard issue on Tigers no matter what theatre they were posted in. I'm no expert and maybe some reference walkwarounds would be helpful too but I would say there is no difference between 131 and 332
Hello and welcome. So this particular model would be around £20 at a very rough estimate. Depends on what and how much of it you buy. The basics should be a primer, a colour coat and then some for weathering. If you're just starting out try and get colours that mix so you don't have to buy a full range of specific colours. Then each model buy a specific colour for that one. Black and white + a colour goes a long way to start with
I currently use a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline with 0.2mm nozzle @15psi working pressure. On this model however I used a Sealy AB9321 as this was before I opted for an expensive airbrush. The compressor is a Badger 1100, highly recommend this!
Nice technique. but why did you paint the belly of the tank body? In real life not a area for painting. Also behind the Wheels and track area was mostly over shot spray areas. Still very nice Job.
Thank you. I use a 0.2mm needle at 22psi. It's more the thinning of the paint that allows you to do this though. I recommend thinning to around 50/50 so that the paint feathers from the brush. That way you'll have much more control over the pattern and density
Short answer: No. But the drive sprocket rotates on a rubber bush allowing it to spin so you can attach the tracks. But this is far too stiff if you’re planning on using this as a toy/RC. It’s designed as a static model so movement isn’t really built into the assembly
In this video I use a Sealy Air Products AB933 with a 0.15mm needle & nozzle. However, I now use a Harder & Steenebeck Evolution Silverline Solo with 0.15mm needle & nozzle. Links to both below; www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=13308 www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/evolution-108.html Hope these help
@@TheInnerNerd No, but if you are looking for historical accuracy in your modelling then that would be one of your considerations. It is a given that you can paint the model anyway you want--fluorescent orange for example. But obviously not if you are looking for historical accuracy which I am.
Well thanks for the information, when I built this kit it was the first armour model is made so there were bound to be mistakes. Anyone can make models historically accurate with enough research, I didn't on this one at least.
