Great video! I am doing my own drywall and taping. I also bought the Colimbia tube and tools. I found they are very good. You video are better than the Columbia's own commercial tutorial videos.
Great video I use a bazooka myself recently bought a used set off tools that came with all the tools you used in this video I’ve never had any problems with the recess edge not getting filled up, if your having that problem with a bazooka you should thin your mud down some more my bazooka is a Sierra rugged and it puts out a lot of mud behind the tape works great I tried this method just cause the tools were part of the package deal and works just fine I prefers a bazooka it’s just faster, I’ve been doing drywall for 7 years, again great video nice job!
Thanks for sharing. Not a lot of vids on semi auto taping. Everybody has their preference for corners. I've been trying a few different ways, will have to try your way and see if I like it.
Nicely done. I'll be switching to this method. Way faster, cleaner, and percise compaired to the bazooka or banjo with no blisters. Way faster to clean these tools as well. Thanks for sharing
Thanks, I was doing it that way for a long time, and it works, either with an anglehead or flusher/glazer. I've recently began using the anglebox now for finish coating inside corners.
@@Interior_Works thanks a lot for your quick reply. I do a lot of interior remodeling kitchens and bathrooms and I always end up having to do the drywall myself. So I'm trying to up my game. I just ordered 2.5 in angle head and a 3.5 inch angle head. Along with the applicator tube and applicator heads.
@@ThielTube you could also put the anglehead right on the applicator tube, it's cleaner but often needs more than one pass. Can also somewhat influence the depth of the coat by how much pressure you push it against the wall.
do you find the corner roller pulls your tape off the wall if you get to close to the corner (does it to me everytime) also thinking could you get away with flushing with 2.5 flusher for tape then carry on with 3.5 angle head for the finish (asking because i only want to buy one angle head already have flushers) whats your thoughts on that?? ( EDIT: SEEN you vid and comments on the flusher vs anglehead thanks!)
My roller will mess up the tapes at the 3way, an inch or two out, never had it pull a tape more than that. Could be a difference in material or roller? If you had the corner really rolled square, and 2.5 flusher was new, sharp and pointy, you could technically finish over it with a anglehead, I tried it that way for a while but didn't like it. 3.5 Flusher over tapes imbedded with a 2.5" anglehead works really great though.
Great Video ! What size (length) is your Columbia Compound Tube? Also is the inside corner mud applicator that you use on the Tube a Columbia product as well?
Thanks. 42", I have the "24 and 55" as well but don't use them often. It's the Columbia applicator, I have a Can-Am applicator too, the way they put the mud on is slightly different.
The difference I noticed is that the Can-Am seems to leave more mud, it's more suitable for their flusherhead system. Columbia applicator works best with either the 2.5 Anglehead or the 3" Flusherhead/Glazer. In my experience anyway.
I've been very happy with it, I'm using the 4'-8' model, it's very rigid at 4'-6'. It can bow slightly at 8' length if pushed hard, but not enough to negatively affect its performance. This is the model I'm using: www.all-wall.com/ColumbiaTools-Extendable-AngleHeadHandle I also tried the 3'-8' twist-lock handle, it's not anywhere near rigid enough and wasn't suitable for either the flusher or roller when extended. I had to repurpose it to a sanding pole with an adaptor.
@@Interior_Works thank you very Much! I will buy the 4-8 model for my flusher ! I dont like the twist lock handle...they have issues when a little mud is on it. Sorry for my english,i am french!
In my ignorance, once applied like this and dried is it just sanded lightly, or do you need to do more and more coats ? If so, how are additional coats applied? Same technique but over the tape now ? Thank you.
Yes, just one more coat after the tape-cpat dries, just give it a light rough sand, then apply mud and flush over one more time, same technique, just without the roller. Also, I'm using an angle-head in the video, but a Flusher/Glazer will work the same way and is significantly cheaper.
Hi Brother...I would like to ask you which corner applicator is better 2 or 4 wheels...I ask bc u are using 2 wheels,so I am about to buy it it’s important to know your advice...Thank you very much 👊🏻👊🏻
I had the same question, and was advised to get the 2 wheel, because if a second pass was needed, the 2 wheel can do that better, but the 4 wheel messes up the first pass too much.
Drywall Vids That’s good info also 2 wheel is Cheaper than the 4th,now about the tube which one u advise me Cam lock or the one you are using it on the video?👊🏻👊🏻
I have the same exact setup it’s flawless and depending on where you are mate if you are in America or Canada I would recommend csr supplies and if in Europe I would recommend belmore/walls & ceilings
I do have two, an old Columbia and the Predator carbon fiber, It depends on the type and size of the job also whether or not I have a helper with me. I also try different things to break the monotony
A number of times i've applied two small tapes, one with mud straight out of the box, and another with thinned mud. Then told my newest apprentice to remove the tapes the next day as part of a lesson. Always more difficult to remove the thinned mud tape, reason is the wet mud glue 100% saturated the tape and deeply into the drywall paper, fusing it all together, whereas the comparatively drier mud from the box only saturated and adhered to the surface fibers of both the tape and drywall.
@@stevenminnerly5336 my mud says this: "Remix contents before use. When taping and finishing joints, thinning with water may improve application. Add clean water in 250 mL (1 cup) increments, remix and trial-apply until preferred consistency is reached. Over-dilution causes abnormal shrinkage, poor bond and other negative effects. Do not mix with any other material." It's up to us and our own experience to find out what defines "over-dilution". I know what it is for me, and where the problems start. I've seen huge company crews thinning theirs down to a drinkable mix, and running it through their apla-tech hose line auto tools, or spraying the coats on with their Graco Mark X. I'd define that as over-dilution and asking for problems. What I'm using in the video is thick in comparison and the thinnest I'll ever use.
@@stevenminnerly5336 maybe this will be a topic for a new video, I'll film an experiment I did years ago where I taped strips on a scrap drywall, incrementally thinning the mud down for each tape. I found the tapes that adhered less were the tapes from "straight out of the box mud" and the final tapes that were applied using mud that was thinned to like milk. The sweet spot was mud thinned to around what I'm using in the video. For applying tapes. My coating mud is way thicker, I can put my coating pan upsidedown and go for coffee and the mud will mostly stay put.
Lol you've clearly never done drywall and if you do, it probably looks like shit. There are 2 reasons to make taping mud thin like this. One, it shrinks behind the tape leaving you with room to coat over the tape without it being too humped up. The other reason is because the glue in the all purpose mud or taping mud(we don't have taping mud in the south) can saturate into the paper more creating a better bond. Obviously thinning it down to be like water will dilute it so much that you have more water than glue and it won't bond, but this clearly isn't to that point. If you're not taping with thinned down mud, then you're doing it wrong. And a combination of tool and hand finishing is far superior to only hand finishing. My dad started doing drywall in the late 70s and I've been doing it since I was a kid. I started out doing it by hand and quickly switched to boxes as soon as I saw how flawless they were. I like to do a final coat by hand for the angles though. It just makes them a lot cleaner and easier to sand. Also the angle roller is a complete game changer even if you don't want to use any other tools. You'll never get the tape as perfect as the angle roller can.
