Ya makes a big difference. I bought the corner applicator and roller many years ago but stopped using them soon after because too many bubbles under the cornerbead. Someone showed me the trick to bend the flanges back and now I use them again and never have an issue. Big time saver using them.
This is seriously the only video on how to use these tools so thank you very much for making it. I didn't even know outside corner bead auto tools existed until I saw this.
When these came out long time ago I was having problems. Found out real quick to use the All Purpose green pail mud. I use that for all taping and the blue for topping. I've been using a hopper but but all the compound tube stuff today. Good tip on the folding back the paper.
Thank you so much for the tip! Been 4 years struggling with thoses bubbles , also i loved the demonstration i will watch your other videos too subbed :)
Thanks. Definitely bending back the paper flanges I've found to be crucial to prevent bubbles, that and making sure the mud application is consistent. I actually have meant to make another video on this topic, because the applicator I'm using here is the best for vertical corners, but not so good for horizontal beads, just the way gravity sags the mud b4 I can get a bead on and roll it. It's hard to explain. Recently I picked up a Columbia white plastic corner bead applicator, it puts the mud on differently that solves the problems. Now I use the metal one for vertical corners, then swap it for the plastic one for horizontals.
@@Interior_Works just in time before i purchase my own columbia set i was confused which one to choose between the two applicators and found that the plastic one puts the mud much better all the way to the center of the head Just curious if the can-am set is better than the columbia set materials if you know anybetter advice me in your experiance. Seen your content and Loved your channel ❤ keep up the good work sir!
@@zMIGH If I had to own only one, I'd go with the plastic one, the only reason I still use the metal one is for speed on the verticals because it has wheels, the plastic one drags a bit slower with friction. But as you noticed the plastic one puts mud right to the center, and I would say it's the overall better applicator.
I find applying external corners with finish filler instead of hot mud a lot quicker,but the corners are easy damaged also most manufacturers don't recommend doing it with finish.
Thanks man I'm a boarder have been framing and boarding for 15 years . Have been taping just lately and I have the same applicator couldn't figure what was the problem thank ft or learning it for us bro .
Columbia have 4 typs inside rollers. What type of roller do you use,wide maybe for usg cornerbeads? Sheetrock also have inside roller,how do you think who is better?
Just pull in and push out clean water from a pail, the inside will rinse perfectly clean. It does come apart too, either by a few screws or buckle clamps, depending on the brand
Great video, thanks for the folding tip. Do you think you could use the corner mud applicator using the Dewalt Mudshot instead of the compound tube? Thanks.
Hey 👋 ur work is beautiful 😍 I'm also this is my job but I'm unemployed from now and I'm still searching if she wants someone to work with you I'm here
So when I'm working I do first and second coat with 90min plaster then finish coat and touch up spacel with blue top plus 3 finish compound? What's your method?
That's news to me. I actually just googled new Columbia outside 90 applicators. Seems that's the new design. The main importance is just mud under the paper flanges really. I never really seen the point of the center hole actually, since that area is capped with metal.
Drywall compound has less adhesion to bare metal, it flakes off in chunks if the corner is bumped. Metal also has a tendency to hairline crack along the edges.
In my area all metal cornerbead was phased out in the early 90's. Hardware or supply stores usually don't even carry it, special order only. Cracks too easy, so builders don't want it used on their projects. I see it a lot on older renovations, and there's often hairline cracks running down the sides.
@@deeeeeeps if it's taped I'd imagine it to be the strongest corner possible, as you said, thicker metal and bigger flange. But I don't think most people tape the sides, at least not the ones I've fixed in renovations that had cracks running up the sides. So it just got a bad reputation, at least in my area.
@@Interior_Works I think he's referring to how level or square the outside corner is with respect to the framing/drywall. Lots of outside corners on newer homes tend to be out of level because nobody seems to check while they are taping. When hand taping, I always throw a level on the outside corners and have to tweak them in or out a bit to get them perfect, but I do a lot of renovations for picky people who pay well so I don't complain.
@@MV-wb2cz I wasn't sure if the original poster was referring to bead alignment, like taking a straight edge to each side and making sure it's even. - the roller is made to position it perfectly, and I check anyway when I'm wiping the excess, with my knife as the straight edge, if in some very rare case it didn't go on perpendicular, I adjust it before it dries, but as of April this year, I'll have taped for 20 years, so I see it by eye at this point or even 18 years ago, it happens alot without the roller, but almost never with it. Or if the framing is bad - like convex, concurve, the bead isn't flexible and doesn't conform to either so it will be very obvious during its application that the bead needs taken off and a laser put the the corner and restructure the corner with plaster prior to placing the bead again, that's usually to do with bad twisted timber, a fault with that material. - Drywall just follows the framing. Or if the corner is proud on one end, so overall slanted - if it's bad enough to be visually obvious, that's a fault with the framer, they made a mistake. - it's fixed and it's a back charge. But I didn't like the attitude of that original poster, because they were making assumptions and accusations when I was just trying to show how some tools work.
That's true for a few corners, but for one example, I did a commercial job recently alone, it was 24,000 sq ft drywall, and 3700 linear feet of bead (mostly due to every window and door being drywall-return). I saved days using these tools. I'm not trying to sell these tools. Just my experience is they make my job much easier and the tools paid for themselves after a few jobs. I would never recommend these tools to someone who tapes/muds casually once in a while - I'd say use a pan and knife.
