Tar holding tank mods. 

Ha. But also helpful comments like what - where to get weldable fittings. Or how to keep the goPro cool - TIP get external power cable and remove the internal battery. And for external power, you can use a USB to Milwaulkee adaptor for M18 batteries to power GoPro.

I've used those weld specific fittings too .. but I didn't BUY them :) .. maybe they are pricy or hard t find locally? The tank itself looks like 1/8" so it probably doesn't matter much :) The weak point is at the male pipe thread where it joins ,, threaded pipe is really thin there

Thanks bud, just trying to keep it real!

I was thinking, when he mentioned that he wasn't going to clean up some of the rough edges, that it wouldn't matter if he did because pretty soon you wouldn't see it through the tar anyway!

​@@BrooksMosesProbably seal up any leaks on those threads too

If it is a rigid conduit coupling as he said, it's bright zinc. In the shot after he assembles the fittings to the pipe, you can see he ground off the zinc coating in the weld area. He'll be fine.

Thanks for the info and insights regarding difference between chromate/electro and hot dip. I've noticed the same but not been able to verbalize it as succinctly as you(with metrics, bonus), thanks!

@@bobblick7963 Be my guest : )

I appreciate that!

Good idea! I was unsure of what to get. I was definitely Not putting on that Cast piece though!😁😁😁

Usually go to Freguson plumbing supply and get the 3000 psi fittings which are steel.

A bung fitting might have worked there.

They make weld O-lets for welding on a pipe fitting to, well normally, the side of a pipe, im sure you could have found one that would have served your job

Why not use a welded elbow and weld the pipe on the tank. There's no use of using a thread fitting and elbow if you can't remove it.

_MuriAtic_ , which is kinda outdated name for hydrochloric acid, which harks back to the times when chemists thought you need OXIDES of non-metallic elements to crate any acid. (Lavoisier, XVIII century prominent French chemist mistakenly believed that oxygen was a constituent of all acids). The very name of "oxygen" attest to it - it comes from Greek ὀξύς (oxys) - acid, lit. 'sharp', from the taste of acids, and -γενής (-genēs), producer, lit begetter, via French "(principe) oxygène" or "acidifying constituent", but I digress here, so kindly pls disregard this bit of trivia ;-) So anyway hydrochloric acid was the first "oxygen-less" acid ever discovered, and since they thought "as explained above" they tried to isolate that unknown element form chlorine (which they thought to be an oxide of that element) - which obviously they could not achieve since chlorine is an element, yet they decided, against better judgement, to name that would-be hopeful element "murium". Hence "muriatic acid", and it always amuses me that people who would laugh at "hell stone" ( _lapis infernalis_ aka silver nitrate) or "(stag's) antler salt" (ammonium carbonate, used as baking powder in older times) still use that funny name dating back few centuries, but then I guess "old habit s die hard", so here we are, I digress here again (as usual). ANYWAY, while removing rust can be done effectively with any "strong enough acid" (even vinegar, aka acetic acid would do!) for zinc removal a regular lye is better - that "drain unblocker" white granules you can get in any Walmart or hardware store (mind you, NOT the liquid one, which is concentrated sulphuric acid!) is basically a sodium hydroxide aka "lye" (actually, the strong solution oof it is "lye"). Zinc is transitional metal (chemists call it "amphoteric", i.e. capable of acting as metal and non-metal in reactions) and in fact it's a very chemically active metal - it can even dissolve in acidified boiling water. Anyway, it dissolves just as easily in lye, but this does not produce hydrochloric acid vapours (the solution gets hot) AND lye, unlike acids, does not attack the steel underneath. That means you can just throw that item to be de-zinced into some steel container (like an old can - mind you, it MUST NOT be aluminium one, since aluminium is "just like zinc" and it dissolves in alkalis too), cover it with something (safety consideration in respect to your shop's spiders - they are people too ;-) and you can leave it overnight and go sleep assured that zinc, and ONLY zinc will be dissolved - and no single gram or steel will be missing. Also, it can be done indoors (no corrosive vapours released), albeit when you're going to do that "by barrels" provide a good ventilation, as the hydrogen released in this process (both of them release hydrogen) has a very wide "explosive range" when mixed with air.

Sorry but your information is not correct. Ridgid pipe conduit threads are tapered. There is a slight difference (3 degrees if I recall correctly....) in the thread angle. When you buy ridgid conduit dies an/or replacement thead inserts, you pay for the difference! If you want to prove me wrong, I'd challenge you to try to cut an "all thread" 1" x 12" pipe nipple with a conduit die. You can do it, but it is going to look like crap, gall if you back up and the threads will be so sharp that they will never seal. It has been a couple years since I chased threads. The conduit dies have another letter for identification but I don't recall it at the moment..... NPTx

Edit!! My apologies, I just learned something..... Another commenter also mentioned that 'couplings' have straight cut threads. Yep, I just verified that on a couple of 3" and 1" coated couplings in inventory. All of the female threads I checked on other conduit fittings are tapered.

Yeah.. instead of NPT (national pipe taper), sparky fittings are NPS( national pipe straight)

Following Orders

Yeah, I'm learning in the comments that that was a bad choice. Hopefully the threads in the fittings will keep from leaking based on the threads engaging tightly against each other. Then too, the thick viscosity of the tar itself should keep it from leaking.....Hopefully!😕😁😁😁

I believe those conduit couplings have no taper like the pipe fittings do.

True too. Maybe I wasnt thinking clearly. 😕😁😁

@@ICWeld Once you get a plan in your head it can be easy to get tunnel vision lol. Looks like it's going to work fine either way.

Buy American made Ward pipe fittings whenever possible. Forget the porous china junk.

Amazon!..of course!😄😄😄😄

yup.😊Next one.

I realized that I used the wrong fitting but i think being as I jammed the threads tight, It should keep the tar from leaking.

following orders

I currently have an auto darkening lens. they work good. Kinda spoils you.

@@ICWeld Being a carpenter who sometimes has to weld pieces together on various bits of furniture I find auto-darkening helmets to be a life saver.

Yeah it was!!!😕😕😕😁

Its more so for weld control. tough spots make it difficult to control the weld if i kept it going all in one shot.

@ICWeld Ah , thanks for the explanation. Great video

I'll edit my post. I have a link to them.

@@ICWeld thank you sir!

Pica dry pen.

yup,

The rigid conduit is taper threaded, the couplers are straight thread,

@@ronkennedy213 "The rigid conduit is taper threaded" No. The treads on rigid conduit are straight thread, so are all of the fittings. Electrical conduit joints are not watertight, that's by design. If you do a commercial job with rigid conduit and use tapered threaded fittings - if the inspector catches it - you'll have to re-do the whole thing. Ask me how I know.

Great point

@@ICWeld That "heat induced breakdown" dawned on me too few hours after I posted my first comment here, and my recommendation in scenario like that (i.e. "below charring point" heat, yet strong and constant heat anyway - I reckon 200°C/ 400°F or something close to it) I'd use old style hemp or flax fibre packing, as used by plumbers "back then" in the days before fancy PTFE tapes and newfangled magic potions like that yellow goo ;-) Of course you'd need to use some lubricant with this fibre packing, since there is too much resistance from these fibres when they are "dry" - normally old school plumbers would use a dab of regular grease (i.e. mineral oil thickened with calcium soap - or lithium soap nowadays) but here I'd use a regular vegetable oil - with time it will harden due to oxidation (accelerated here by constant heating) which would seal the joint shut.