Just found your channel. Checked your video list and found this as your latest, man after my own heart. This pattern blew my mind. Found an old plumb tassie pattern with original handle years back and it changed the way I thought of axes. I'm in Australia and all the axes in stores here just bounce off our wood or bind so hard that you can break the handle getting it out. My first strike from this sailed so deep into the wood I thought it was going to stay there forever, but a gentle pull on the handle and it came free. I always pull it out when we go camping to show other mates what an axe made for Australian wood is like when chopping and they can't get enough of it. Sadly I did do a nice overstrike on it once and broke the handle but have been carving a new one to the same dimensions. The thin and narrow handle gives you so much more control. I'll be exploring ways to reinforce it.
Happy to have you aboard, mate! I absolutely love this axe, especially on this handle. Those old Plum handles were nice right from the factory. Is the steel on your Plum really hard? The two I have a file wouldn’t even touch them. You might want to check out my video(s) about rawhide collars. I used goat skin which is really thin-so it hardly feels like anything is there-but still offers some protection against over strikes, which just do happen no matter how careful we are. Cheers.
@@KevinsDisobedience It's exceptionally hard. it took about 10 minutes of faffing about before I could get the file to bite properly, per side. I was lucky that it didn't need much of a touch up. Hard work but doable. Haven't had a chip in it yet which I ascribe to the edge geometry. I've been meaning to make a rawhide collar for years. Was actually making one the week before I broke it. There's a family up the road who prepare goats, might see if I can grab some of their hide next slaught.
When I heard the mourning dove in the intro shots I knew this video was going to be a real treat! Great chopping and what a good combo. That Basque racing handle was a perfect choice. Looking forward to the Tassie/Connie shoot out.
I did a splitting comparison today with a 6 lb splitting maul. A 4 1/2 CHALLENGER and a 4 1/2 CRAFTSMAN. BOTH TASSIES ARE FULL WEIGHT . BOTH ON 30" curved handles. Both tassies were sharp the maul wasnt sharply, but it wasnt blunted either . Hands down the tassies out split the maul. Everything is frozen all the way through. I stand up 20 rounds and start splitting . Split 10 rounds and change tools. Split 10 and change. All around. The axes produced better splits , as fast or faster and were all around more useful. Better for stick, flip, Split. Better for chopping stringers, better for moving and repositioning rounds. In fact. They out split my China Tui. And my 5 lb Rafting axe. And Woodslasher Michigan, Rhinelander. My dedicated splitti g axe is the Heavy , 5+lb Cyclone Tassie . I do need a handle upgrade for it tho. I only have 7 tassies ATM. I think i may need a couple more. 😊
AWESOME! Love the intro, wide shot 1:33, chips flyin, Basque handle, go the Tassie! Great choice of timber and scenario to test 'er on. Can't wait to see more of this thing!😁👍🪓
Thanks, Kurt. I can’t wait to really get a full day out with this girl. I also want to try this is some maple and see how it goes. But I love the handle head weight combo. One of these days I’ll get a real camera and improve the quality on those action shots.
Looks like you built yourself a great axe. It's hard to find good profile that can have a grind like that. Always enjoyable to watch, thanks for sharing!
Cool that the neighbors had some wood down to do some testing! I agree 100% on tassies being a completely different animal. Once I got used to the weight it seemed like I always brought one along as back up.
Thanks buddy, do you have a worn Tassie for splitting. I reckon they really would be great splitters. It’s not wonder Buckin’s always lookin out for them.
The tassie really is superior to most other patterns when it comes to hardwoods, or most wood for that matter. Wide cutting face, perfect weight, high centerline and a lot of handle to head contact inside of the eye. Only thing I don’t particularly like is the lack of poll, but as for a straight chopping axe, it’s about the best pattern someone could ask for.
@@KevinsDisobedience just a little more. Some are about perfect, but I’ve got a few that have virtually none. And that’s not a terrible thing, just a little harder to control when felling with unless you have em on a racy style handle.
I love the fact you backed your hafting skills and did away with those metal ring wedges that crack, split and destroy everything withing the eye. Nice.
That's a great set up. I just got around to hanging my Arvika 5 star on a Basque (replica) racing hickory handle. First time using a straight handle so my accuracy suffered but it sliced thru some silver maple with ease. It seems like a great combination so far.
How do you like your Arvika? I hated it but didn’t use it much if I’m honest, but I sent it to VintageAxeHoarder and he loves it. I imagine it would work well on that style handle. I’m going to make one out of hickory someday.
Honestly I didn’t like it much either at first. But I thinned down the profile quite a bit and now it’s much better. Not the best, but definitely better.
Great video Kevin !! While I don’t own one or have yet to use one, from what I’m seeing the tazzie seems to be the hard wood king. Absolutely love that handle man looks like you could chop with it all day. That handle seems pretty similar to your slip fit handle that you modified to accept a wedge. Great job Kevin always a please to learn from you and watch you chop 🤙 keep up the great work man !!
Thanks Joey, just out here building, swinging and learning just like you. We both just happen to have YT channels so we can share what we’ve come to believe.
Glad that you're happy with the axe. Like I commented on one of Ben's videos, nothing better or like an axe you tuned and hung yourself. Even better once the chips start flying. I'm on the fence with the Tassie pattern. Would like to try one just to see. Besides curiosity it isn't high on my list of heads that I want. I've been on a fire axe kick for a while now, recently shelled out the dough to pick up a Welland Vale fire axe that I'm holding to put on a good 32, 30 inch stick. Before that I was looking for Kentucky patterns. For most of the wood I encounter, a run of the mill Dayton or Michigan will work fine if not great, along with most other patterns that I've used. Be it Jersey, rafting, Connie, Kentucky,Dayton, Michigan, or National.
If you can find an old hcl Dayton with a 4.5-5” bit, you can save some money and get one of those. It’ll chop the same. I have a 2.34lb Kentucky I use as a wedge banger.
Your tassie, it reminds of the brades ben gifted me. Which falls into a more wide bitted dayton designation. It appears that it’s in sweet spot for wedge profile axes. I’d love to talk axes soon. Perhaps figure out an ideal handle for this brades.
I have a hytest craftsman that is an absolute beast on a Killinger 28. I have a plumb on a 32” ash handle that really hits hard but it’s bit is very heavy and balances strange. How does this balance at the eye? Poll heavy, bit heavy, balanced?
@@KevinsDisobedience I just started thinking more about balance after an article sent to me by EthicalAxe. You’re right though ultimately it comes down to how it performs reguardless of its balance.
These thick wedged axes are so much better in the tough hardwoods and larger diameter timber in my experience. Even silver maple as big as that red oak you'd want a heavier, fatter axe. I'm not sure I can go back after seeing how effective they're.
The top of the white oak was pretty well cured, but the red oak was still green. It’s a hard, crispy wood. Chips really nicely, especially when under 12”. This guy was probably 18” or so, not as big as some of the stuff you get into, but big enough for me lol. I was actually thinking about you while chopping. I thought, “Boy, Milo must have some good stamina to chop big notches like this for a couple hours.” I had to take a break after just one lol.
Great video, thank you for that. Those axes are great. By the way actually americans (plumb) invented the classic tasmanian pattern, in the early days. I was quite shocked when I heard this. Stay safe.
You’re right. I learned these a few months ago. I think Plumb first made round pole Tassies. Hytest really perfected the shape, in my opinion. Have you had any luck with Plumb steel? The two I have are so hard a file won’t touch them.
@@KevinsDisobedience any specific model that you recommend? Also would you take that axe head over basque or any others that you have used for that purpose.
@@johnseropyan Hytest only had 3 models..."Forester" was the top of the line and always came with a hickory handle. "Craftsman" was their mid line and either came with hickory or Spotted Gum handles. And "Challenger" was their bottom end and always came with a Spotted Gum handle. I believe it also topped out at 4.5#...rather than 5# for the other two. The main differences between the lines, beside the handles, was finish. The cleanest forgings were stamped "Forester"...and the Challengers sometimes had fairly bad cosmetic flaws. But they're all great functional axes. I have a Craftsman that I got a great deal on...but Challengers usually come cheaper.
Good point about price. It’s something I don’t really think about. They’re definitely a collectible axe so it hikes the price up, but these guys do cut!