1970, I purchased a TEAC reel to reel player, not deck, it was WONDERFUL, I did pipe it through a small amp that I picked up over in Nam from another soldier, and a set of speakers, I could make the dust fly from the sandbags of my bunker quarters!
Thank you for your service. My father was in Vietnam. He brought back a monster pioneer Receiver and an akai to reel in Sansui speakers. He had that stuff forever. He tossed it all when he built a new house in 2000. He passed in October. I got a pioneer 5590 and 4 400w sansui speakers In his honor. Trying to chase that sound he was so proud of. CCR sounds amazing on my setup. He’d be proud. I hope you are alive and well sir 🍻🫡🇺🇸
Another area that these machines were used in during the mid 70's was the presentation market for sales conferences / product launches where 2 tracks were used for stereo sound and a track was used as a control track for synchronizing multiple slide projectors, track 3 was used as a guard track to avoid crosstalk between the stereo track. The dropping down of the reel tables was fairly common due to this machine not being a full logic control deck (later versions were) These machines would get up quite a speed in ffwd / rewind with 10" NAB reels and slamming into stop could cause the reel table problem, a useful dodge is to hit the opposite wind button to slow machine down prior to hitting stop. Once I had the reel table drop on a live show the workaround was to remove the reel tables 3 screws and place cardboard underneath until chance to service properly. Great video as always.
Didn’t have the table drop issue but the fast wind to stop or fast wind to play has on occasion broken my tapes. I haven’t used it since but have been reading up on using the opposite function to slow it down
This helped me immensely with bringing an A-2340R back into better shape. I already had some 100% synthetic oil with a needle applicator and your mentioning of the tubes made me realize that's how you get the motors lubricated easily. Your details also helped me unstick the roller, it wasn't popping up and down with start/stop. Now it is! If anyone is finding their roller is stuck, just remove the left screw on the bracket, and loosen the right one. Don't even remove the wire harnesses. Stick a tissue or two below the shaft to catch any drips, and drip oil very slowly into the gap - I mean small amounts super easy - it'll pull the oil in. Move the roller up and down to work the new oil in. Repeat until it feels looser, then tighten your screws and enjoy a roller that operates like it should.
I lubricated the pinch roller pivot shaft on mine (3340S)by loosening the right hand bracket screw, removing the left bracket screw, drop the left side of the bracket to expose the back of the shaft, slide a piece of clear tubing over the shaft, raise the tubing up and tape it to the frame then squirt sewing machine oil in it to a level of about an inch above the shaft. I worked the mechanism back and forth every so often and the oil worked itself back into the shaft and freed it up.
I followed a similar procedure for my A2340R so thanks for the suggestion. I didn't have clear tubing that would fit, so I just carefully dripped small bits of Liberty 100% synthetic oil into the gap and watched it suck it in. Then moved the roller when the oil would sort of collect - seemed to pull the oil in, and eventually I could feel that it wasn't so stiff. Plugged it in and the roller was happily jumping up to meet the capstan, and retracting happily. Appreciate the tip on not removing the whole thing just to get that operating!
Many, many moons ago I worked for the Australian importer of Teac gear. A couple came in with a reel to reel unit they purchased in Hong Kong and bought back here. The complaint was it did not work. On removing the back of the unit it was found to have been stripped of all its parts including the motor. This was to make room for lots and lots of black socks. The socks where stuffed with bags of rock heroin. The police where called and the whole lot taken away. I have no idea if someone in Hong Kong gave this unit to the wrong person in which case they are most lightly at the bottom of Hong Kong harbor or if the idea was to allow the couple to bring the unit through customs and latter rob them of the unit. No idea what the value of the heroin was but there was a hell of a lot of it. I just hope the police got the people involved.
In the early 70's I composed my own music on an Akai 4000DS, sound on sound deck. Then around 75 I bought a Teac 3340S. Also mixed down to a Tascam32. I am now transferring all those tapes, 7 1/2 and 10 inch reels to DAW. Since all my decks have been in storage all these decades I'm sure they will need a good going over. I am hoping I can get them all to work for the transfers. Your video brought back a flood of memories using these decks. Enormous fun back in the day, and not to mention, they all sounded fantastic. Great video!
I have allot of Teacs. Your reel table deck height was wrong. No heat is needed. There are adjustments at the motor shaft to shift the shaft to and fro for proper table to deck height. Tape lift mechanism locks up due to the lubrication failure and the wax freezes up the mechanism. Like all old vintage electronics some capacitors are suspect due to non play. Having documentation is helpful and Teac may still even support this machine at least for basics like pinch rollers capstan and tape counter belts. Also on ebay people sell belt kits and so on. I had the following. The 4300s, 3300s, 2000r, X-10,X-10R, just to name a few amongst my many reel to reel machines. My favorite ones were the Otari MX-5050B Mk.2 and a Tascam 52 Omega loop reel to reel. The 3340 is a work horse. The Eagles used it, Star Wars for their special effects work used them. Johnny Cash owned a 3300s 2T. So Teac had been doing production for years. Tascam is the professional arm of Teac. Started in Marina Del Rey California, TASC of America, now TASCAM made allot of music and Post Production houses happy with their reliability. DASH and DTRS digital came after, and the rest is history. Not bad for a couple of brothers in Japan starting TEAC. Tani Brothers to be exact.
Thanks a lot! My father passed away recently and now I'm sitting here with a mountain of tapes (his own original recordings) and a 3340 with about the same issues as yours. Thanks to you, at least I know where to start now.
I would give anything to get my hands on an Ampex 351 stereo deck with 2 preamps In 1971 I worked at CFQR 92.5 FM in Monreal ,they were the most amazing tape decks ever in 10" and 7" format Rewind speed for 3600 ft reel at about 160mph and under a minute,not to mention super clean response and with a faceplate of 1/4 inch stainless. I love your Teac but its no competition for the Ampex
Where I used to work (Radio Services Corporation ) they still have two of this TEAC working ! To service them we built a wood frame were the machines rested and it was easier to do the maintenance you jus did ! :)
Since I was a teen and got to work with stereo reel to reel decks, I've always just plain loved them things. I've worked in radio almost all my life too. Although now they aren't used, during my time they were along with carts. There were 2 standards for those 1/4" machines. 4 track or half track as sometimes called, and 2 track. Half splits the tape so you can record and play on both directions. 2 track, is one direction only. However, your using the whole tape for left and right so get much higher quality recording and play. At 15 IPS, losses would be imperceptive at half track. On the 2 track, it will duplicate in analog as good as CD in analog. My personal machine is an Otari MX 5050. You can, on it flip from rewind to play, to FFWD to Rewind to play. It has sensing to tell when the tape stops and self controls that before engaging the pinch roller. I absolutely love Teac and Tascam tape decks, both reels and cassettes. Very easy to service, and made to be maintained. Oh, and also, 15 IPS will minimize wow and flutter in worn tapes.
I'm jealous! LOL! When I was in the Marine Corps back in the early 70's I had an AKAI 4 track Quadraphonic reel-to-reel. Unfortunately, while I was out on maneuvers a fellow "Marine" who was just given a hardship discharge & was mustering out broke into my wall locker & packed up all my electronics along with all the tapes & albums that went with them. By the time I got back, it was too late, he was long gone. They told me I could try and press charges but that seeing as he was technically a civilian when he stole my gear that I'd have to take him to a civilian court & that would have to be in the state in which he lived. Fat chance of getting a leave of absence to pursue that route. I never did get around to getting another reel-to-reel after that. Another kicker was that I'd stashed a hundred dollars inside the sleeve of my copy of "Jesus Christ Superstar", I wonder if he ever found the cash or if he just pawned all the stuff the first chance he had!!!
Nice machine. I always wanted a 4-track recorder like that back in the day, but it was way too expensive. And now I have a little Zoom R8 8-track recorder that records on a tiny SD card. And it is a lot cheaper, just shy over 200 dollar. But I still love the old machines just like the one you have.
I've got a TEAC A4300 from about the same time period as your machine. Mine was supposedly serviced, and I believe so because it works great. One problem I'll have to solve is that when in fast forward and then hitting stop, the tape to the right of the capstan/pinch roller, stretches or breaks. Have to get a service manual and check tensions. I can get around this by going directly to rewind from fast foward. When the reels come to a stop, I hit stop. That works. Coming out of rewind and stopping doesn't hurt the tape though. Will have to invest in some spring scales and check the service manual on all appropriate tensions. I've wrecked some good tapes that way!
I have a pair of Teac A-1500 decks and I need to remove the face to get to the belt for the capstan, it has a rubber cover on the reel decks that hides the 3 screws, thanks for showing me where to look for them. You earned a sub for that bit of info! Thank you very much!
I bought one of these brand new in 1974. I loved this machine; far superior to the A-2340. I sure wish I had it again. But without a band to record with, it would not be nearly the fun. I might get another one day just to restore it and to have it. They are such a beautiful machine. Please change out your start capacitor for your lighting. It is beyond distracting. Thank you for you video.
TEAC R/R decks are my favorite to work on. The stuck pinch roller arm is very typical and I've had to free up a dozen or so. One was so frozen I had to use a soldering iron to heat the old grease so that I could pull it out. I sold my 3340 because I was tape deck 'poor' at the time. If you ever run across a Sansui SD-7000 you need to grab that one. Talk about a beast of a machine!
I've got several reel decks And I have an A-3340( lever model like yours). It works but needs to be gone thru and "clean-n-lubed". I'm sure it will"wake up" like yours did. Good video!
hey there! I just bought a 3440 myself and the reels are slightly wobbly. No scraping sound until the tape gets low on the right side. Did you have wobbly reels and did adjusting the reel tables fix it for you?
I love the Reel to reel the sound they have is just amazing! I have a few decks my self I have a AKAI GX-630DB and I have my dad's old AKAI 747 and I did a buy it now on eBay for a Pioneer RT-909
The left tension arm is damped and should have a slow moving feel. Yes the Teac that later had TTL and the transport lever went bye bye. The A-3340S had the 6 button controls moving forward.
Back in 1978 my friend and I started our demos on Ivy Hunter's (Motown writer performer) Teac 3340. But my frieend ended up buying a 3440 More pro than consumer.. I have since acquired both a 2340 and a 3340 to pass to digital the original 4 tracks and then embellished them in ways we never thought of back then. Both had the stuck arm. Heat the berring to remove and clean the old grease off. Mostly only ended up using the drum tracks since I have none. Some more from the original was used.
I've worked on these since the 70'S. Crindged at some things, but glad you are learning. I have the era Revox and otari machines, but liked the 3340. Also have the teac 4 channel Dolby unit. Can Dolby 4 channels in or dedolby 4 out, not in realtime. Or, can Dolbyize 2 ch into record head, de-dolbyize from play head in real time. Nice low flutter machines, even now on my micom/Ampex flutter analyzer. Used to tape down the buttons so a simple lamp timer would record full 'nite-tracks' from WBCN BOSTON. Back when it was allowed. Fight the DMCA you kids!
I didn't have the opportunity to work on R2R when I was in the business. The owner of the shop wouldn't service R2R decks due to his hate on for anything of quality. No R2R and no console stereos.
There's a big difference between "overhaul" and get it to run....I have several reel decks,among them a deck like yours.It also sat unused for many years.I did just about the same things you had to do to get it running.It's inline for a complete overhaul but there are several ahead of it.I have over a dozen TEAC decks and just about all of them run,other than the A5300/A5500,they are built absolutely like tanks...I've always had a preference for TEAC. Good video!
This was more than just get it to run but I am not a believer is a full cap job. They don't fail that often except for certain runs of bad caps. This is my machine and it is basically just a room decoration. I never use it and will never record anything on it other than to play with it once in awhile. I wanted it to work so I could see how it sounds and if I get a tape to transfer to digital it might come in handy but mainly it is just a display piece like the old broadcast camera I hung onto from my video production days. Some people are holding onto the old analog days, I couldn't wait to dump it for the pure sound of digital.
What a machine! I was particularly impressed with the capstan flywheel. It looked really heavy, leading to imperceptible wow and flutter. I've never owned a 15 ips deck, so seeing it almost gives the impression of a slow fast forward wind! I would think you would really need the 10.5 inch spools to get acceptable playing time at that speed.
Many of these machines this one included were used in small recording studios. With the simusync mode play back to me made from the record Head while simultaneously recording. This allows a basic multitrack session to be recorded. You could record four single sessions then play the tape back mix the four tracks down to stereo recording them on a second deck. Add two more sessions on the extra two tracks of that second deck mix them down the two additional sessions that is and the original stereo mix to stereo again and keep adding this way.every time you get a mix down of course you would lose a little bit of quality but at 15 IPS the quality was very good. Somebody's units were used in quad setups for the people that were collecting quad systems of the day back in the seventies but more were used in small recording studios where they would have a couple of these units set up you were basically unlimited as to how many tracks you could record with two of these of course you'd have to do mix down all the time and once you mix down you couldn't make any changes to the stereo mix but you can still do a heck of a lot with just two four track machines
@@12voltvids Thanks for your comments, 12voltvids. I suppose noise could become a factor with numerous four track mixes to stereo. Seeing those four VU meters on the front panel made me sit up. too.
I have the older 3340S non A series, and have experienced tape snapping or stretching when going from fast wind to stop or play without hitting the “opposite” direction fast wind function first before stop, pause, or play etc. wish mine had that switch. Thanks for the video. Cheers
Nice! I have this deck. These things are like 60 pounds! Heavy! Works good and I even have the remote. I bet with a head cleaning, it'll be perfect. Mine is slightly different. It has the 6 transport buttons (no slide bar) and the input/output knobs are all black, without the machined metal covers.
I scored a Teac a2300sd Twenty years ago. I went down to my local Radio Shack and bought a couple dozen reels for it. The thing was stored shortly afterwards. After Eighteen years later I serviced it Myself. Now it is my favorite piece of audio equipment!
Well this was partial payment for a Hammond B3000 organ I repaired. I didn't shoot a video of it because it was repaired in the customers house and he requested that I not film at his place. I got this, 2 Sony R-R, a Grundig mono R-R, a Noresco / Dual turntable (Noresco was a Canadian amp maker back in the 70's 60WPC, sounds bloody awesome) and some nice Paradigm speakers, plus some cash for the job.
@@12voltvids it sounds like you got the better end of the deal for sure I have a tascam 32 reel to reel but it blew the f 502 fuse twice so I did not do anything however I downloaded the service and user manuals I also am trying to figure out how to convert it from 2 track stereo to 4 track stereo and slow the speeds diw to 7.5 ips and 3 3/4ips and when I initially checked it the pitch was on and the fuse blew and since the fuse blew the recod and playback sections do not work I always enjoy your videos an I just want to know if I can slow the speeds down and convert the heads thank you and keep the great videos coming and all the best for a happy and healthy new year
That is a nice 4 Track Reel to Reel. I have a TEAC A-170 Compact Cassette Player that a needs new belt in it. I did buy that one in very nice shape for 50 swedish kroner = 7 Canadian Dollars.
Good job on this machine. The turning platforms for the reels are called turn tables. (Go figure) I owned a previous model a 7010. It was heavy as hell. The reel motors were like the size of floor fan motors. The major problem I had with it was the heads. They were a new concept. Composite heads. The idea was to make heads that would last many hours. Unfortunately, they were unstable at higher frequencies. The roll off was quite noticeable. I herd that many were replaced with standard heads.
If you are paying $1000.00 for a dead 3340 on ebay, you have money to burn. Be patient and keep waiting. There are allot of these machines out there. Also the 3440 is the cousin of the 3340 and newer and easier to find. A great find is the Teac 7300 2T. So good Ampex OEM'd it for themselves. The Tascam BR-20 would be the last reel to reel Teac would make. A bygone era that will never come again.
I had one of them reel machines two track but reverse play back have an Akai now needs reels n tape fuse n cap but mint shape love the old gear did tv stereo VHS much brands 30+ yrs as tech
I have worked on a few of these machines and the pinch roller always sticks, I wonder if there is an easier way to oil them thru the front panel. If the deck could be set down on its face with blocks to protect the front side perhaps it would be easier to mount the capstan brackets?
i live in new zealand ,your videos really are amazing just the variety of machines and you seem to me to be an expert on all of them ,thomas edison,tesla were perhaps similar to you
Loverly old tape recorder, in it's day it would have been the bees knees :-D. I can't imagine how much it originally cost, far too much for the average man for sure. ' It's spot on now you have fixed it, even the brakes work A1, they slowly fail and ff/rew operations can end in a bloody mess, but not on that baby :-D.
They still are the bees knees, if you take the line out of your computer and run it into your Reel to reel you can record music from your PC from youtube or your own music or what ever:)
@23:04 The supply tension arm is just fine!! It has a calibrated coil spring and is lubricated with special silicone grease and should NOT be "messed" with w/o proper knowledge. It will make the W/F much higher. Do you have the proper tentelometer ? @24:36 leader skewing off the p/r. This is usually a sign of a glazed p/r. Remove & scrub w/Scotch-Brite pad & Dawn under running warm water. Spend some time on this and the reward will be obvious. Rinse WELL. Oil with MOBIL1 0-20. DO NOT LOOSE TINY FIBER WASHERS !! One on top & 1 under. The motors should be properly lubricated with it also...
I watched a señorita from Catalonia (possibly Barcelona or Malaga or Seville) service her TEAC,I think that she took it out of the cabinet to allow her to lubricate all the moving parts and put the chassis back into the cabinet, seems like it's all solenoid operated.
I have a tsr 8 machine I bought a few years ago but have not hooked up to a board yet to fully test, and I feel I am in for one of these sessions that I am not looking forward to.
That looks like a good machine for sure. 15 ips is what does the trick for me. I lucked into a simple version Otari MX5050 2 track and it's been my favorite audio toy ever x 10. It's logic was going crazy needed lots of relay and switch contact rehab but it suddenly it came to life and when the 456 tape splice hit, it melted me into the floor (and hammered me at the same time). I mean who needs noise reduction with something like that @ 15 ips. And I wouldn't exactly call that sound warm either, it can slice you up if it's supposed to. I recently had to commit sacrilege to the heads because there is quite a step worn into just the record head but I can't afford to have them refurbished... so I came up with a horrible scheme involving a box cutter blade a demel polishing wheel... maybe just don't do that but I got away with it.
Oh I should add that I only got away with it because the heads were not sufficiently worn flat, I just had to shave the step off the edge of the tape - bearing area because it no longer permitted full contact... but I could have missed or scratched it worse then I did. It did fix the edge problem completely and I think I only goofed up about 3% of the good surface; which I hardly had to polish at all and it's made a massive improvement... though perhaps a box cutter is a Very crappy way to do that. Cut through that head like butter though. Kinda scary.
hi did a full service on my unit the front audio and vu lamps hell was the word i had the front black panel of i wish i had gone a video you would have seen all the insides of the audio looms you have to un do a lot of part 1 hour to get the panel of i have one i am working on i put a video on later i love your video's
Ha! You'd be extremely lucky to get 5 years out of it. Although, I am impressed with my Panasonic plasmas; one bought in 2009 the other in 2010. Both still perfect. Only thing wrong is a damn buzzing on the 2010 model due to manufacturing error. No grounding somewhere is my guess. Has like it since the day I took it out of the box. Was a known issue, although only known to me AFTER I bought it! Both were the TOTL models for their years, cannot remember the model numbers.
I am working on a teac a-6300 and i have the same problem, rubbing with the left reel table i had to remove one of the screws that wascausing the problem did not think of checking the mount for the table like he did. Will have to check it.
@@EuroScot2023 Unfortunately i sold the rtr because i did not have the expertize to fix the various problems that it had plus i don't know how to use an O'cilloscope :-( Thank you for the help.
I have a TEAC A 2340 SX that was working fine and all of a sudden the transport switches went dead. When you lif the right tension arm the capstan turns and the vu meters are lit up but the play and ff/rew are dead.
I have just bought a TEAC A 3340, and I noticed an issue on the record part for a specific track. For tracks 1,3 & 4, when I record, I can switch between TAPE and MONITOR and the levels shown on the VU meters are close, and the perceived level is similar. However, for track 2, when I switch between MONITOR and TAPE, I go from +1 on the VU meter to -20. I only barely hear the signal. It seems like the signal is "lost" somewhere before arriving to the record head. I have tried tweaking the "REC LEVEL" trimpot on the board, but the increase in volume is negligible compared to the volume I should get. :??: As said earlier, I know that it not a problem with the PLAYBACK part of the circuit, but only the RECORD part. I have tried with tape on both sides (shiny and matte) and I know my heads are aligned because it plays fine. Hope someone can help me with this issue!
I remember back in the 1980s after discussing a fault on my Teac A3340 with a very helpful tech at a Teac service center in the USA, he told me I needed to replace a diode - probable cost at the time 20p, which I could very easy replace myself. So I took my machine to Harman UK in West London and explained which part I needed, and how I knew. At first they refused to sell me the diode, and said that I would have to leave the 3340 with them, with a minimum charge of £100. I asked to use their phone, when asked why, I explained that I would call the Teac tech in USA and inform them of Harman's refusal to provide me with the part. The manager heard me and showed me to a small room with a workbench. 5 minutes later, a young guy appeared with a screwdriver, soldering iron and small packet containing said diode, which he replaced for me in less than 5 minutes for no charge!!!
If you had come into the shop I worked at and asked for a part the owner would have shown you the door. There were many times when people would walk into the back and start talking to me and i would politely say sorry i can't help you. They wondered why. Well for starters they would hear the shit storm that would come down on me from management if i told someone how to do something or provided them with any information. For starters that would be taking money out of my pocket but the shop got a bigger cut then me so they would be losing too. We were very secretive and would not do any work whatsoever if a customer was watching. You have to remember that they business is there to make money and you don't make money if you do stuff for free or give away anything. I have to remind customers this at my day job now when they ask for extra work. Can you connect that jack in my kids bedroom so he can plug his computer in as opposed to using wifi. Sure can, it's 75 bucks to reconfigure the jack. Still want it? I am under pressure from my boss to charge for everything I can and I do. Whenever possible because i don't like getting those emails with my name highlighted in red, which incidentally it is every month because i don't bill enough.
@@12voltvids Nonsense, I watched the guy replace the diode and I could have easily done it myself. Harmon Uk were just being very awkward and saw the error of their ways. By the way I have build an ADA Flanger, one of the most complicated of it's type, on veroboard so I DO know what I'm talking about.
@@UncleBoko so your point? I'm just saying at the shop that I worked at and no I didn't own it, customers were not permitted in the back to watch over our shoulder while we worked in fact for that matter even if they're waiting in the store we would not touch it. The last thing any techniques is someone standing over their shoulder watching what they're doing. Insurance is one reason. If a customer was to get injured they could sue the business. The guy might have let you watch that's his business but I am telling you that 99.9% of shops will not permit you to watch. Even my local tire shop when I took my car in to have a nail removed and the tire patched the mechanic refused to work on my car if I did not sit in the waiting room. I left the waiting room and was standing out in the parking lot where I could watch him work and he came over to me and told me that if I did not go back in the waiting room he would not work on my car that I was in the way of his employees that had to walk around me standing in the parking lot. That's the way shops operate, even though I wasn't in anybody's way I was standing behind my car which was not in the shop it was in the parking lot on a jack we had the wheel off and inside the shop I was standing next to my car outside and I was told I couldn't stand there because of liability.
@@UncleBoko so what you are saying is a hobbiest did it. No professional tech or engineer would just do work out of the goodness of their heart. They are in the business to make money. That's how it works. You pay a tech or engineer for their knowledge. When you go to college or university what do you think your tuition is for? It's the pay for that knowledge that you are receiving so that you two can go out and earn a living with that knowledge that's the way it works. When I was in the business I wouldn't give away my knowledge to just any Tom Dick and Harry, but I would share info with other texts in other jurisdictions, in other words not my direct competition, and they would with me. I was in a tech forum where we used to share technical tips with each other and we all got along great because we were all making money networking off of each other's knowledge. That's kind of what I'm doing here on my channel I'm sharing my knowledge with the world because I no longer do this kind of work to make a living. Now I am compensated for this, people pay me to repair their equipment but I also make money from the advertising revenue from RU-vid and that's basically the only reason I do it. If there wasn't any money in producing these videos and uploading them and incidentally it takes a lot of time, I would not be interested in doing it I'd spend my time on the golf course or traveling or doing something else. I only do these videos because I make money doing them.
If one is going to delve into these older Japanese machines, it should be noted that the screws are not Phillips. Any exceptionally tight screw will be stripped by using a Phillips screwdriver. Get a proper set of J.I. S. screwdrivers and your work will be a lot easier.
I was given one of these but its a basket case. Front board above the heads is smashed and all the knobs are gone. I would need another parts unit to fix it. I did try gluing the board. I also have a 3300SX and a 4010 in good condition and working.
Dave, Thanks for showing all the detail on how to service this Teac. I've got a 10.5 inch reel Teac that needs some servicing, so I'll be able to use this information as a guide. I would think that Musicbakery would go after this Rick Hart guy for copyright infringement - taking their music and calling it his own. Maybe you should give the Musicbakery a heads up as to what this guy is doing. Regards, Tom
Hi 12volt, I have a question for you. Reel Adapters! I have tried twice now from two "different" brands (they were identical), to purchase NAB Hub adapters on Amazon. They are all the same design from China. They don't fit my TEAC 3340. I love the look with all that shiny aluminum but what the heck? When mounted on a 10.5 reel correctly they have expanded out just enough that the 3 spline reel table locking lug won't spin over the center and capture it. If I intentionally misalign the back tabs on the hub adapter so they push through a reel of tape I was able to lock the 3 spline shaft but now the hub itself is not locked on the reel of tape and all manner of fun could possibly happen at high wind speeds. Have you had luck with the Burlington or the expensive french REM versions? Or is there another solution you may have heard of? Tod
I bought some reel adapters that are such a pain in the ass to use. They are just plastic blocks that you fit into the reel and then put that over the tape spindle and tighten down the lock screw. You have to remove the adapter every time you remove the reel. I want the type that permanantly attached and you just turn the lock dial to release the reel clips and remove the tape leaving the nab hub attached. Bought on eBay and once arrived i realized it wasn't what I thought initially. Seller offered to refund the 50 I paid but not the 30 shipping and it was gojngvtk cost me 30 to ship back so i didn't return them. I never use it anyway it's more of a show piece and aonetnknv I could get about 1500 for if I decided to sell.
great vid thank you - what oil do you use for lubrication? also I have goo on my pinch reel, I have a replacement rubber but what chemical do i use to clean the black goo off the rollers and backing plate?
You can use the free source program Audacity. Highlight at least three seconds of just the hum click on noise reduction then import noise. Then highlight the whole track then noise reduction and execute. Then save. I use this all the time to remove the air-conditioning him in our Church videos.
Watching this great videos I feel like a visitor in his shop. All the background noise makes it more authentic beeing a vistor watching this great repairing jobs.
Mine was working fine and then it quit for no reason other than when you push play it doesn't make that snap sound anymore. I've seen the switchthats probably at fault my question is can I get that switch anywhere?
My A 3340S sounded bad from one day to the next. As if someone had cut the treble out of the song. Just muddy. What could have happened? A defective capacitor? A defective head? The tape ran without any problems before and I really want to repair it again. Greetings.
@@12voltvids Nothing unusual. No dirt, all the screws were in place. I cleaned the heads anyway but nothing has changed. A short while ago it was still running perfectly. And now only muffled sound and no volume. Unfortunately, I only have this one tape here. What else could I check out and test? Thanks in advance!
Excellent video, I have the Teac 3300-10 can I just take the capstan flywheel thrust plate off to change the belt? Instead of taking the whole capstan out like you did?
You may want to try loctite, low or medium strength, tiny vibrations may keep those screws working loose. Loctite hardens into a soft plastic and holds the screws in place. No sense in chasing your tail.
Hi, thanks for the demo! I have a TEAC 3340, too. Everything appears to be working correctly except when I put the 7.5 reel on the right reel doesn’t move. Both reel mounts spin when there isn’t any physical reels on them though. I’m stumped. Any idea what I can do to fix this?
years ago I needed money so I had to sell my beloved 3440.......sad days ......but today I acquired a 3340 , shes in great shape but not spooling ,,,capstans running ok .......is it just two belts in this machine , capstan and counter ?........
I Have the A3340s UK machine slightly different inside, there's a circuit board attached to the bracket that holds the fly wheel in place, i need to free up the pinch roller mechanism as you did, but you didn't show how you oil it? can you advise me , thanks
Great video, how long to the heads last and how do you know that they are good? Just by listening? I always thought most of these machines have a limited life since the heads wear and there is no replacement. I have an Akai w/glass heads, supposedly they last longer. Thanks for the cool videos
You can see wear on the heads as the tape will wear a groove into them. These machines have pretty hard heads, Some of the early ones didn't and they wore down.
@@EuroScot2023 Shhhhh, don't tall the glass head fanboys this. They will get upset. I have talked about this in the past and all the "experts" out there tell me I am crazy and how much better glass heads are. In reality they wear better that's it. They cause the tension to go through the roof, cause tape stretch, and sticky shed tapes just won't play. I never use my GX260
Question, that first bit that you took off that was rubbing, what is that assembly called? My Akai GX620 needs a new one. That shaft is bent and there is a spring that is supposed to be under tension but the plastic bit has broken. The unit fell onto a driveway.