How to take a Ruger SP101 down to the frame for cleaning, lubrication, maintenance, etc. Hope this helps someone with their revolver, it is a well built TANK and it is actually very easy to clean, lubricate, etc.
Absolutely awesome video. Good experience shared, along with the technical facts needed to do a deep cleaning. I took my SP-101 to the range today and when I got it home, I found the cylinder would barely spin. When I took it apart, I found there was a lot of burned powder ionside of the cylinder. Simple cleaning of that and it is working much better now. I had never been able to figure out how to strip it that far apart so I have never deep cleaned it, just the barrel and exterior.
Easily the best tutorial on disassembly SP101. On another channel the “tutor” actually pried the hammer retaining pin out, instead of using a brass punch to drift it out. Sure enough a newbie in the remarks pried the hell out of it- Ruger charged him $200 for the resulting repair…
I remember the first time I saw a GP 100 at the Shot Show. The salesman was disassembling the firearm with just the rim of a .38 case and the hammer spring rod assembly. I thought that was the bee's knees. I've done a little polishing here and there on all of mine so they disassemble/assemble like butter. Good video sir.
Ruger no longer supplies the little brass tool stored in the grip - the trigger spring capture tool. It is 3/64” solid brass bar. I ordered (4) 12” 3/64” brass stock for about $7. Simply cut to size. Elegance restored. And enough left over for every 101 owner within a 500 mile radius. 😊
I wonder if you orient the transfer bar to it’s most rearward position before inserting the assembly back into the frame if doing so will allow it to avoid jamming against the ledge…
I need to replace the bar you push to eject the spent casings. I bought one of these from a pawn shop and the ejector bar is bent to heck. Any resources?
I used 3 in 1 Dry Lube. I also like Gun Scrubber to blast particles out, but it doesn't leave behind any lubricant. Anything that evaporates and leaves the mechanism not oily. Several companies make a dry lube and anything that doesn't leave an oily residue would work. Some folks would even lightly dust the mechanism with graphite after cleaning and completely drying it. Just be careful not to use something that could eat the plastic parts of your gun (like brake cleaner). Even then, if using just on the trigger (all metal) that would work. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Chris
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 I've had my sp101 for about 7 or 8 years when did you get yours and I bought mine used so I really have no idea how old it is
I may have answered my own question. Starrett 1/8” diameter steel punch with a 8 inch long straight shaft and a molded handle. $11 new on ebay. Looks ideal for leverage as you describe to unlock trigger assembly. 👍👍
>>A Glock tool looks ideal for removing the trigger housing. It appears that you are exerting force against a spring loaded detent to release the assembly.
Strike Force is a unique combination of cleaner, dry lubricant, rust inhibitor- it leaves no residue, no build-up, and repels dirt, sand, and grit. Strike Force has a website where you can check it out. I will be using it.
That is actually a set of punches that I bought (of all places) at harbor freight. It is the smallest in the set (1/8 inch) and the actual punch part is 3.5 inches long with the entire tool being a nearly 8 inches. A long diameter 1/8 punch will work. I have a Winchester set that is for gunsmithing, but they are not long enough.
