Tech Tip: How to Parkerize Your Firearm 

I've watched a lot of the videos that Brownells has done and, in my honest opinion, no one does a better job than this man does at explaining/teaching. He really knows what he is doing and he has the gift of being able to explain it very easily.

A video that actually explains the process, finally.

Brownell's has pretty much anything you need but they sure take their sweet time getting it to you.

A great pre prep for paint, thats what it was used originally. US M1 helmets were parked before painting also known as bonderizing. 100% bond for paint and steel, the paint like the oil absorbs into the coating, no need inefficient primers. Military Brit weapons were painted years ago with Suncorite but not before being parked. If you want the green effect use Cosmoline it will green up after a while, doesn't take long. Shame they didn't do a black parkerised finish.

Steve is always on point with his tutorials. Excellent job....

im actually glad i watched this

Parkerizing is such a good finish.

Almost fell asleep, but an excellent video! I was tired anyway, but I know that ‘park’ won’t work on stainless now! Thank you! 👍🏻

If you spend enough there the Edge gives you a 2 day shipping option, which I like so if i'm finishing a project and a part dose not meet my standards I can get something as small as a new grip in 2 days. It always looks good when you give a bit extra for those that trust you with something that could have been given them by a dad or grandpa.

Awesome...was thinking about re-bluing a Pistol but this might be the ticket to make it unique 🤔.

1 question: I recently completed an 80% build from RIA. The parts were already parkerized, but in completing the frame, some scratches were produced. Is it necessary to remove all the original parkerizing, or can you simply scuff the scratches, clean and re-parkerize? Will the spots blend back in?

What a great video! Glad someone actually made a video parkerising.

Vinegar also works to strip blueing

Ahhhhh art done professionally

I just bought a cheap 1942 1911 A1 US ARMY stamp example but someone polished and removed all of the parkerize from it at one point. Going to replace the ugly rubber grips and get it parkerized to look correct. Hopefully I dont mess it up

Very good sir.

Hey Brownells, If you were to drop a chrome lined barrel in a tank to parkerize would the barrel not be usable after that?

That was a very well made video

You mentioned that parkerizing won't stick to stainless steel. Can you tell me how people get the gas cylinder of an M1 Garand the same color as the barrel? I've seen many where the barrel and gas cylinder are an exact match. They tell me they do a Manganese based parkerizing. I've got a 1943 Garand that I'd like to get to get all the steel parts to 1 color.

Good job ...very informative

It seems the spots where they wire contacts the parts will interfere with creating a good finish. Apparently it doesn't.

Steve, I appreciate ya. Learning the basics of parkerizing was something that's gotten my curiosity lately. I appreciate learning from ya. To the guy popping shots off at the end; my guy, what in the hell kinda grip is that?! Jesus man, you trying to let the gun fly outta your hands?

Oh. So that's how I'm gonna refinish my gun.

If a company says the barrel is parkerised does that mean it's a chrome lined barrel

Can you store the solution to use at a later date?

Whoa, limp 🫳 wrist and the tea cup! 🍵 @5:04

Have a few rifles that were in a fire. The safe got wet inside and I had rifles rust really bad. video says receiver can stay on the barrel but wouldn't they need to have all rust and previous finish removed first? Thinking would be tough with the receiver and barrel still attached.

Do I need to remove all of a previously parkerized finish that has come off in two dime-sized places or can I just sand the spots and dunk the whole frame? It's a military pistol where the park has come off in a couple of spots from being oiled and not stored properly.

My brother in-law has some left over solution for parkerizing. How long of a shelf life does the mag-phos have?

are you guys planning on doing a video on hot bluing using one of your full hot bluing kits?

The Duracoat Manganese phosphate parkerizing solution instructions don't say anything about atomized steel to season the solution, but I would think it would need to be seasoned. Your commitments or answers welcome.

3:25 it's like steel tea lol

How do you strip nickel, will bead blasting take that finish off

Thank you

am curious is there different color parkerizing, or is it just the one color?

I have a remington rand that is not an a1 ser# comes back as a colt 1911 made 1915. Gun parkerized was issued to a colonel eastman. Never seen one not a1. Any info ?

I just want to know where to get the trough's he's using.

What are my options for a 308 stainless steel barrel if I can’t parkerize it? I want something very durable and cerakote will eventually wear off

How do you get/replicate the greenish Parkerizing on surplus guns, etc. that have been stored for decades in Cosmoline?

It has to be at least 2 gallons of water?

Wouldn't you have to repolish mating surfaces like slide rails? What about a revolver frame, and inside the barrel

Great video that guys grip on the 1911 is 🤮

The dude at the end needs a little help on his shooting grip

In the video you said to separate the parts you don't want to parkerize, such as the sear - what about parts where, like the hammer, where you want most of it parked, but possibly not all of it (like the areas that contact the sear) could you put cold blue on these areas to "mask off" the parkerization?

will it work for ak-47s?

So like an idiot i painted my ar...is this the route i need to go to restore it? What do you guys think.

Parkerizing is a whole lot of work and trouble... I have coated 5 guns with Alumahyde II and it took me less then 2 hours for the actual painting and finishing part (I bake the parts at 190 degrees for 4 hours though). Guns i did 8 years ago still look good and minor touch up is a breeze (spray some on foil and apply with a paint brush).

Would this work for a black powder revolver? I wanna try this with a Remington 1858 sheriff's model and the Remington revolver rifle reproductions.

what was with that hand gun grip? Yikes!

is this line of products available in Australia??

will this process only work on 1911s?

No ppe

will this work on Cast Iron car parts to protect from rust?

Has anyone considered Coca-Cola for this matter?!:-)

Cool. IMO, that chalkboard esk finish is ... well, as bad as fingernails on a chalkboard.

I almost ruin my frame trying to Parkerize, end result ,the darn thing never stick to it (yes I degrease it ) Yes I didn;t use any atomized metal power

Man Larry Potterfield sure looks strange, wonder if he's feeling well.

Sooner or later people will discover once and for all that spray and bake finishes are garbage and were never intended for use on firearms like hot bluing, parkerizing, color case hardening and hard anodizing was. Duracoat and Cerakote are crap.....the others aren't much better either. KG Gun Kote 2300/2400 being the best of the bunch. Worse yet are when people buy a vintage firearm and think they are doing a good thing by "restoring" it with these finishes. In reality you just ruined it. It will never be the same again and lost a great part of it's "old world" craftsmanship. Don't do that......please!

Wow let that 1911 flop around in your hand a little more while firing. Way to be a gunfighter!

Alot of work that doesn't protect the metal

مرحبا،ارجولرد،ماسم،سم،هذ،لمحلولهم،يصير،لون،زيتوني،اريد،رقمك،عل،واتساب