now that's the way to respectfully post an opposing view point! thanks! sometimes i think lubricant on the cylinder head is alright. but i have had some where it is so tight it just pushes all the lubricant out anyway. depends on your preference. i have never had a problem with dry cylinder head o-rings.
I have actually had nothing but problems with teflon grease in the past. Every time I used it my bevel gear on the top side would always wear it off in only a few thousand rotations of the bevel itself and then start screeching very loudly. Using it on the cylinder however, was never a problem, and I also use it on my piston racks too. For gears though, I do recommend white lithium because it really works well on metal-to-metal contact, as well as metal-to-plastic for those who run nylon bushings. Ever since moving to WL I haven't really had issues with bevel screeching.
I use thick die electric grease for the trigger contacts and the top of the gearbox. I use white lithium for the gears (still looking for a cheap alternative).
for the piston head o ring grease it first and then stretch it over a cylinder and heat it up with a lighter. the heat will make the o ring larger which makes a better seal.
I used silkolene red synthetic grease aka rubber grease. It's safe to rubber and plastic, has great lubricating properties and a lot cheaper then 'airsoft' grease costing stupid money for tiny pots.
exactly. most guns we get in at the shop are stock guns owned by kids wanting an indoor legal speed. most stock guns some with single metal tooth pistons.
You talked about that when you buy one of the cheap JG guns the first thing you should to it "regrease" your gun! Is this the only part you were talking about or is there more places you should libricate on a new gun? Thank you for all the tips! Are just getting in to this and your videos have been alot of help! :)
that is one i am not going to do. i don't personally have a need to cut any spring i own. what i recommend is that you cut off coil by coil until you get the desired fps.
your way of applying the grease is great, allows pin point control... another way, maybe easier is using a brush. Not those pressed -handle small parts cleaning brushes you get at Harbor freight for a dollar per thousand (they shed the bristles way too easily) but a good hobby style brush from Michaels crafts or similar. The problem is not even how you apply the grease with a brush - it's finding a brush that won't shed the bristles! Leaving bristles in the grease you so painstakingly applied is not only annoying AF it is downright counter-productive.
Great video! My first airsoft rifle is arriving tomorrow... nice to kno what im tearing into! But I agree. Im a plumber by trade and moving or not, o rings are designed to be lubed. This makes an o ring live a lot longer.
Thanks for your videos buddy, I really appreciate the time you take. They have taught me alot and given me confidence to work on my aegs. A quick question for you my friend if you have time: do I lubricate the spring and spring Guide?
Just use super glue or silicon grease but do not use silicon oil. Grease will last a hell of a lot longer than the oil will. It will probably only your last a thousand rounds But Reese will last for maybe even a couple years. When adding lubricant to the teeth remember that some of the grease is going to transfer to other gears.
you only put lithium grease on the gears not the o ring. Personally i moved away from white lithium and i use super lube synthetic grease or tri flow synthetic grease
hmmm...my figers and hands sting after airsoft lube has been in contact wiith them awhile. been considering using rubber surgical gloves when im doing airsoft maintainence.
What cylinder was in the gearbox in the video because i have one and I'd like to have a specific brand in mind. Also note that my cylinder is identical if not exact as the one in the video.
If I do not ever lube my gears will the gearbox sound whiney and grindy?mine sound weird and the fire rate is slow but it's only been like that ever since I took it apart(it is not the motor adjustment I already adjusted that I th doesn't fix anything) someone please respond I'd like to know if this is the issue
Some people say u shouldnt use grease on o-rings. Only silicone oil. What do you think about that? Im using the guarder teflon grease myself on everything..
Is that a Lonex piston head you have on the piston? If so, how do you like it? I know that sounds weird, but I don't want to buy one until I know how they work.
Hi,I have exactly the same gearbox,i bought it from a friend.It worked properly when the friend was using it. But someday when i was shooting , it just got stuck. I have experience with repairing gearboxes,so i opened it.Turns out it was piece od a piston so I put in a new one.BUT! :D when I got everything back in place,I tried a shot but it got stuck in loaded/opened position.And it happening again and again,and i have no idea what could it be.Everything is corectly placed.Do You have any idea?
IGDYgame that probably would be fine depending on how well your grease stick and usage. If you comfortable opening your gearbox it doesn't hurt to check every so often.
I would check to see if the factory did it to speck. the inner barrel may need some cleaning. I use personally an unjamming rod with a cloth on the end, with some rubbing alcohol. fell free to finish off with silicon oil. evike has higher concentration oil on their site, and that's a good overall oil. thick enough for the gears and such
From what I've heard: - Metal on Metal = Grease - Metal to plastic = silocone oil. So: Grease on the gears and silicon oil on the pistonhead and rails. Cylinderhead (tube) to nozzle use a little grease on the tube of the cylinderhead. Not in the nozzle just to be save, it will get in there but not deep so it won't be spread to the hopup chamber. You dont want silicone oil in your hopup.
Noooo don't but silicone oil on your gears. It's been my experience that it dries up and makes the gears grind. Just use Teflon grease. Its the same price if not cheaper.
