Technics SL Q202 Servicing 

Glad to hear you're enjoying the servicing of turntables, the end result is certainly satisfying. Nice to hear you're enjoying the videos as well and that there is some helpful content within. Thanks for chiming in 🙂

Thank You Leo 🙂

Good morning, typically on the types of plastics and greases you find in "mechanized audio gear", i.e. turntables, tape decks, you can use certain solvents that aren't too harsh. What I use varies a little depending on whether I'm "surface cleaning" a certain area of a part / mechanism while still installed or completely disassembled. When surface cleaning a plastic part in place, I use a light to modest amount of 99% anhydrous alcohol (on a swab or rag depending on access / space) because it dries fast and I don't want residual liquid cleaner that doesn't evaporate quickly migrating onto other areas within the mechanism / equipment I'm servicing. Most plastics you come across won't be affected whatsoever considering you aren't "soaking" the plastic part for a long period of time. Alcohol typically has enough "bite" to clean the residual grease off of a part after you remove the bulk of what's smeared on the surface with a rag or whatever. Of course, when I have a mechanism disassembled, I'll place the parts in a tray / bowl and soak them in warm water with some Dawn dishwashing liquid (which is a good degreaser) and use a nylon bristled brush (you can use an old toothbrush for example) and clean / degrease the parts. I've also used some Simple Green to degrease some plastic parts and haven't had any issues. Of course, the dishwashing liquid will be the mildest, but don't worry too much about it. If the plastic is already degraded from age and has become brittle, it's going to "fall apart" / fail at some point anyway. Some cheaper / less resilient plastics are just that way (it is what it is). I'm not a chemist, but based on experience and what's been used within the industry for ages is a good foundation to start with. Common sense dictates not using a powerful chemical that's so volatile it's going to dissolve, soften, crack, or otherwise "destroy" most plastics on contact. I know this is a lengthy response, but there's a lot of info surrounding these type of topics as those with differing opinions, it's the internet after all 🙂Hope this helps, take care.

Thank you for takng the time to give such a detailed reply, I do appreciate. Could you give details of what grease you use to apply after cleaning, as in type, not necessarily specific brand. Thank you again@@retroelectrotech

They are the same, it appears the 212 was more prevalent in the "European territories" than the 202. The specs are the same, and if you do a side by side physical comparison, they look pretty much identical. They both were available in black and silver, but the silver units are the most popular, although they may have produced more black 212's than black 202's, but I can't be 100% sure of that, I think I've just seen more black 212's. Yes, I can send you a service manual, my email address is ernest@retroelectrotech.com, send me an email and I'll reply with a service manual attachment.

Good morning, good to hear the video assisted You a bit, in regard to finding parts, You'll need to "let Your fingers do the walking" on the net and see what You come up with on the auction sites etc. You'll find folks that are selling miscellaneous parts from "parted out" units and possibly some "new old stock" (NOS) parts that might be floating around out there. Another option is to find a "donor unit" that is otherwise not working, and if the price is right, perhaps You'll be able to obtain the part that way. Keep in mind that a lot of these cats selling parts may not have Your particular part listed, however, they might still have it but just haven't got around to pulling it and listing it, so, don't hesitate to contact these people and put out the word. Some of the mechanisms are also the same across some of the similar models etc., so again, someone who is selling parts may be able to help You with parts from a similar unit. Although the stand off is broken, try to piece it together enough to take measurements of it and some photos as well (if possible), or at least find it in an "exploded view / parts view in the service manual (it may or may not be shown). However, by doing so, it will help someone to track down the part and compare a replacement to Your "specimen". Anyway, I hope that helps to get You on the right path. Lastly, if You're "hardcore" and have the tools and can tinker a bit, You may be able to fabricate a standoff that may work if it comes down to it, my best to you 🙂

@@retroelectrotech Thanks for the reply. I managed to find the part, when I included the part number I was able to find the part on ebay. Since to get to that part required that I remove all the parts, it was a good exercise. Now that's it's all disassembled I can clean and lub all the moving parts. Again, thanks for your video.

It's plastic, but it's not too horribly flimsy as far as plastic is concerned.

Hello, I'm not aware of any other units with those screw being absent. Perhaps someone was working on the unit prior to you owning it. And, if you're the original owner, maybe the screws weren't inserted at the factory, as you know things like that can happen on occasion, who knows. However, as you can see, those screws do serve to keep the assembly mounted / stabilized. I'm sure you can dig up / size up some 🙂

@@retroelectrotech I looked very closely with a 330 lumen lamp and there was no sign of screws ever being installed at those 3 locations. I managed to find some original Technics flanged button head screws that went in very nicely and are a lot meatier than the originals. I believe they came from an SL-D2 or D3. The deck had actually been in a disassembled state with the main board out for over a year due to becoming sidetracked with other projects. I assumed the missing screws issue must have been to do with me but they were not in the magnetic dish with the deck's other fixings and in the end I concluded they were never installed mostly due to there being no markings whatsoever to the aluminium around the holes. I also don't have 1 different spring in the set of 4 sprung feet, all 4 being identical. Not the first time I've seen an assembly error in a Technics turntable!

@@Digiquarium I like your "forensic analysis" of the aluminum surface 🙂But yes, I'm not surprised, I've seen my share of such things, i.e., good ole fashioned human error and sometimes naughtiness within mass produced equipment. But at least you discovered the missing screws and replaced them. In a lot of cases, a lone missing screw here and there isn't usually a huge problem in equipment that's not operating at a cruising altitude of 30,000 feet, but 3 missing screws is a bit excessive. Have a nice weekend.

Well, I can't always give everyone what they want to see. Nonetheless, feel free to explain what aspect/s of the video "failed" and how such content could be improved, look forward to Your input / knowledge.

Hello, you may want to check that the start switch / tonearm switch is being firmly engaged and activated by the lever from around the tonearm base, and or the switch isn't dirty / defective, which could cause a failure of the platter to start rotating and or "cut-out" during rotation if the internal switch contacts are not engaging at all, or are doing so intermittently. You'll see a switch near the tonearm base on the "auto mechanism plate" (which is the plate that the main cam, gears and levers mount to etc.). You'll see a small metal lever attached to the switch that may need to be adjusted very carefully and just slightly by bending it so that the lever (that the tonearm moves, makes solid / firm contact with that metal switch lever. This happens when the tonearm moves inward toward the platter of course. That's probably the best way I could explain it in a message without the benefit of having the turntable on my bench. Hopefully if you've already started disassembly, you are taking many photos of all the mechanisms and their positions before moving / removing them. It will help as well to write down descriptive notes, as well as draw little diagrams that will help you during reassembly. Be sure that you take photos at different angles as you remove the various "layers", so that you can examine the mechanisms better when you're performing reassembly. Also, keep the parts / screws in organized categories as well. If you work accordingly, it will make life much easier for you 🙂

@@retroelectrotech unfortunately just about everything you said went in one eyeball and out the other. It is too difficult for me to translate written instructions into actual repairs :( I don’t know any of the technical jargon or parts - I just know how to fix basic things but this seems to be very complex and intricate. Thanks for the time but without being able to see everything in person or on video I’m just lost. I tried reading that about 5 times and it’s just way too much

@@nickythebat Yes I understand, if it's something you are not accustomed to, it can be a bit overwhelming. Unfortunately I don't have that turntable (or one similar to it) in the shop, or I'd try to help you out when time permits and show you a hands on demo. Well, I hope you can find someone who can help you out a little more or perhaps find a turntable that doesn't need any work.