Hello I have a Africa twin xrv750 rd07 and the wires that came from the stator to the rectifier they get burn when I accelerate to 3rpm do you know what could be the problem. Thanks Antonio
Nominal output test reading was same as idol could , stator resistance test all reading up and down not accurate other 2 was fine can any one help me what does this mean ?
Right to the point, if you have got 14 + volts at about 5000 revs then the rec/reg is ok, old bikes don’t have fancy computers as someone mentioned down the comments (the fault #12 and the crankshaft position sensor, bla, bla, bla), you did good job!, don’t pay attention to the “couch professors”
many many thanks Carlos! I appreciate the supportive comments. And you were absolutely right... I tested the Reg/Reg and it was perfectly fine. thanks again
Hello from way up in Norway. I suddenly had an issue with mye 1980 Kawasaki. Thanks to you and your pedagogic video I could step by step check out the stator. Great video - both thumbs up.
Hi brilliant channel BTW, I had issues and did all tests as you stated but on 3/4 test my readings were fluctuating all over the place 19 down to 13 then 18 very rapid , could this be faulty stator or regulator /rectifyer ? Cheers
Hi thank you I’m glad to hear you like my videos! Your readings don’t sound ideal but the fact you are getting readings of that level it doesn’t seem that bad. I would recommend doing the 3rd test again but as various rpms (I wish I had added this the video). And see if you get more consistent readings. Testing the regulator rectifier is also well worth doing I have a video on this here>> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html it’ll be good to eliminate that as the issue. But I’m starting to think it may be that over stator problems. Thanks! Let me know how you get on 👍
@@FabMotorbikes hi , purchased new multimeter re did the tests including removing rectifyer/resistor and testing all good except when I test connection block to stator when bike is running its reading .25 not 19 on your test any ideas as my bike just crashed out on a ride couple weeks back battery is perfect BTW thanks !
Nice work on getting those tests done. It’s seems like your stator is bad… I was hoping it was your battery or regulator/rectifier (as these are easier and cheaper to replace) but it looks like the stator is the issue. Alternatively you could have a parasitic drain somewhere. Have you installed any additional or electrical items to you bike recently?
@@FabMotorbikes Hi, no not installed anything new electrical, but went on bike earlier after trickle charging it had to bump start it then after a while riding turned ignition off turned it back on then started 1st time so I'm well stumped ! Gonna take it in for service then ask guys to take a look ! Will let you know Thanks for your time fella much appreciated 👍 🙏
No, thank you.! Let me know what you learn. All info is golden. Cheers again & good luck. I hope it’s not too expensive. Apologies for not being able to help you further. 👍👍
Use a True RMS meter folks, don’t buy the meter he himself acknowledged was junk and useless for one of the key tests, and more importantly for any AC reading it’s not accurate unless it’s a true RMS meter. It’s understandable he didn’t know this, it’s not something most people know or understand.
This video was rally useful, tests clearly explained and I was able to diagnose the regulator on my bike. All tested ok, bar not getting 14v. out! Replaced and all spot on now. Thanks.
Glad I could help you for next time. On the upside you know you’ll know your parts are going to last along time! But would have been good to save some money. Thanks again for watching!
Awesome vid clean and simple 👍, a extra check can be done on the + - terminals of the rec/regulator whilst running to see the dc output. Faults can ly between rectifier and batt. By fuses, lose connections and damaged wires.
thank you, glad you liked the video. I did also test the regulator/rectifier with it off the bike... but didn't know there was another method (which sounds simpler) of testing it on the bike whilst its running. Cheers for the tip!
You really should test the Regulator/ Rectifier they fail more frequently than the alternator/ stator. Mine failed and it killed the battery :-( The Reg/ Rec is also cheaper to replace. Also, buy yourself a Drop Tester (they're about £20) so you can check if it's actually the battery is faulty. I thought I had a duff battery when my FZ6 started throwing Fault Code 12 which is supposed to be a problem with the Crank Position Sensor, but it turned out to be a faulty starter relay! If I'd not used the Drop Tester, I could have replaced a perfectly good battery. (BTW brand new batteries can be duff too...) Oh and I'd also recommend getting a set of crocodile clip multimeter probes so you can clamp them in place instead of eg having to try to hold them both in place on the battery...!
Cheers for the tips! As you could see I was reluctant to test the regulator rectifier, but you've convinced me that its not worth the risk of not doing it. I'm confident about the battery health but a drop tester sounds a great idea (didn't know they were that cheap.) I remember you mentioning it on a previous video. And bulldog clips are a great shout. I remember thinking how much of a pain it is with out them when filming this video. Cheers again!
Just going through the same checks on my 1993 XV535 Virago and have little to no experience. This has helped me out greatly, clear and short clips, we’ll explained - thank you 👍🏻
Great video! My situation: I have a vintage 1972 yamaha 100 with points and condenser. 6v system. 3 coils attached to stator. Source coil, lighting and charging. Black wire coming out is from source coil... goes to main coil through pigtail on main wiring harness. Bike has no spark. Hard to know if source coil is grounding out with it being connected to points, condenser, source coil all being on stator plate. Tried putting cardboard between points. Shows that I have continuity to ground while testing wires coming out of stator. Thats the rub! New points, condenser, main coil, rectifier, spark plug, battery etc. I'm thinking the black wire pig tailed to main harness is grounding out the main coil... possibly in ignition switch or not connected properly in the rat best of wires behind headlight. Question: Can I take the pigtail out of the equation and simply connect black wire coming out of stator source coil... and connect directly to the one wire coming off the main coil?
Another test to be done is a diode test, with a meter on the Regulator. Set meter on Diode setting. Put Red Meter lead, on to the Red Regulator (positive wire). And then the Black meter lead & test each of the 3 on regulator other end. Each shouldn't show diode voltage. Then do the opposite. Take Black meter lead, on Red Regulator wire. Then Red Meter lead, & test the other 3 wires again. All 3 should show same/ close voltage. Validating voltage is only flowing 1 direction.
Hi Fab. Very helpful video. I have a 2007 Tmax which isn't charging, so I followed your testing method. Yamaha Service Manual says stator coil resistance is 0.216 - 0.264. My readings are as follows; AC volts readings 1&2 - idle 25, 5k - 74 1&3 - idle 20, 5k - 74 3&2 - idle 21, 5k - 73 OHMs 1&2 0.5 1&3 0.5 3&2 0.5 Resistance across the probes 0.3 So, I'm about in spec on the outputs and resistance, right? But, despite this, all 3 wires sound the continuity bleeper when connecting any of the 3 wires to earth. So the stator is shot, yes? Many thanks
Hi David, thank for watching glad you found it useful. Did you perform the first test? (nominal out put of alternator) I guess could be difficult on a scooter. From what you have told me I would agree the the stator is shot. However before forking out for a new stator straight away... (and if you have time) I would reperform the last test agian but with connection to many other parts of the bike e.g frame & engine block etc. If still making a noise I would then remove the stator and perform a visual inspection. You'll be looking for damaged wires / coils. Or unwanted connections to pieces of hardware. You could also perform the same test while the stator is off the bike but still connected to the engine casing, this will narrow it down further. Hope this is useful. And yes my general feeling is you will need a new stator
@@FabMotorbikes Thanks for the reply. Yes I did the first test but it only shows the same voltage reading (12.6v) whether its running or not and regardless of revs.
I need your opinion regarding an issue on my scooter. I´m having a strange behavior on my scooter (SYM VS 125 2010): If I disconnect the connector with 3 yellow wires from stator to rectifier, the engine works fine. If I connect it, the engine misfiring at 4000 rpm. What is the normal output voltage on 3 yellow wires from the stator? I'm getting 26V on idle and almost 100V at 4000 rpm. Exactly when the engine starts to fail. Isn't it too much? I've checked continuity on coils (ok), replaced the rectifier and battery. Bad stator? Another suggestion?
I think you may have a bad regulator rectifier. It is what regulate the the output from the stator. I have a video to check this : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html
Hello, now I got 0.1 resistance from stator coil, but temperature outside is +1C. In manual resistance parameters is at +20C, any suggestions, is it good? Will it increase in warm weather?
Interesting point. To be honest I’ve not considered the effect weather has. Although when the bike is running everything will warm up. So I suggest letting the bike run (if it starts at all). And retest when it’s warn
thanks for this my battery is on charge so i can dynamic test .i have a2014 cb500 are all bike result be the same value 20? hoping for rain to stop when battery is charged. i tested at battery 11volts when revved stayed at 11v hope this test will find problem thanks again
@@FabMotorbikes I've got a question.i put the stater,the pulse indicator, coils,plug wires, controls, even jetted my carbs .It runs fine but it blows headlights out like it's over charging.ive switched rectifiers idk what would cause this . maybe a crossed wire or a bad ground somewhere possibly?
@@roythearcher thank you.what I found was corrosion in the plug.i used butt connectors to replace the plug and it seems to have fixed my charging problem
I did grownding test, and i the problem is here. My tester is biping when i checked. So it mean the problem is the stator? Thank for share also for help.
Yes this would suggest that some of your wires to or from the stator are damaged. This would give you a parasitic drain on your battery. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
I get the ohms test between alternator winding. To check for dynamic load then AC on 20V range and run the motor to 2000 then 5000 rpm for each connection like on the ohms test, they should all be the same. Sometimes there maybe disparity, meaning there is a leak in one of the windings. My Blackbird Alternator costs roughly £360.00 in the UK from a main dealer. From America, same part number and packaging $80.00 !! I asked why this is form Honda, then heard nothing for a few days. A message was left on my answerphone "We are still waiting to hear from our Belgian suppliers !" The voice was far too posh to be real. A mickey take IMHO. RIP OFF in actuality !!!
@FabMotorbikes I’m facing an issue on my RE Interceptor 650. After riding for 10 minutes & crossing 2000 rpm, odometer light goes off.Downshifting or going neutral light comes up. I tested the following: 1. Battery voltage (Ignition off)- 12V+ 2. Battery voltage (Ignition on)- 13.1V-13-8V 3. Battery voltage (rev) - 14.1V-14.3V 4. Checked all 3 phase of Alternator. Could you please give me some leads on what could be the problem?
Seems like the alternator is okay. Have you tested the regulator yet? I have a video on that too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.htmlsi=ysAFvPlAENLDULR5
Great vid! But be cautious about pushing the meter's leads into the electrical connectors as you may spread them due to the larger size of the meter leads. Cheers!
I can not tell u how many videos I watch to test my AC voltage Stator…. You sir are the ONLY person to say disconnect the Stator THEN test them!! I was googling/ searching/ watching video an not understanding why there volts are so high and my brand new $120 Stator AC looked so weak only at 14v. Once I disconnected the Stator wire it jumped straight to 50-60v AC. All thanks to you!! Literally explaining what and how it do the job. FiNALY I understand how it works. Thank sir.
Nominal output test reading was same as idol could , stator resistance test all reading up and down not accurate other 2 was fine can any one help me what does this mean ?
I’m not sure. That doesn’t quite make sense to me as the stator/alternator produces an alternating current (A/C). Although it’s possible that scooters have a system. I honestly would still go by what your manual says to do.
Hi, I've installed heated grips on my grom and they're draining the battery. Trying to work out what's causing it. Would you be able to create a video explaining a simple process of elimination? Great video and simple to follow 👍
Great video idea! I would love to but have t been able to get back to this channel in a while. (Life is taking over) . But I appreciate your support. It’s given me the boost I need to get back to doing RU-vid
This is the easiest to understand video I found . Thanks a lot .. my bike wasn't charging the battery and even the battery warning light wasn't coming ... Checked the alternator , it's fine. Must be the rectifier then.
Thank you very much! I’m glad you found it useful 👍it does sound like it the rectifier (I have a video on that too: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html) . For me it turned out that the battery had just completely given up.
@@FabMotorbikes thanks. I will check it out ASAP , one more thing. Is it okey for the alternator to throw out high voltage like 70-80 at high rpm ? , For example mine was showing 50 at about 3000 rpm .. Any help will be appreciated ❤️
According to the Heynes manual for my XZ 550 connecting the positive rectifier connector to the (red ) MM terminal and the black MM terminal to the 3 white leads of the rectifier the MM should signal continuity but did not, reversing this should show no continuity which it did . I think the book got it wrong because using your method a got exactly the readings you demonstrated so thank you as I really was confused. PS: Does disconnecting the alternator while the engine is running not damage anything?
Glad it was helpful. Your manual does sounds confusing. And to answer your question… no it won’t damage anything but I’d advise to do it for as limited time possible. The battery will not be charging at all with it disconnected.
Hello I have a Africa twin xvr750 rd07 and the wires that came from the stater to the rectifier they get burn when I press the accelerater to 3rpm their is any one no wat it could be the problem. Thanks.Antonio
This a rare issue but most likely the stator connector contacts did not have a good electrical connection due to corrosion or similar. They became hot from current flowing through the high electrical resistance. Very common problem. With the connector issue resolved (either at the stator side or regulator rectifier side) you should be okay. Unfortunately this may not be a cheap fix. I also have a regulator rectifier test you can perform >> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html
My yamaha 1100 keeps drying out my battery. I noticed when I take the battery connectors of the bike dies? Anyone knows why or can anyone point me in the right direction 😊
You might have a parasitic drain. Test 4 on this video will help determine this. There is also a good chance you battery is dead and need replacing. This is the problem I had . It refused to hold a charge
I did the three phase to ground voltage test like you showed and got a 20-23 idle RPM voltage on two of the phases and pretty much zero voltage on the third phase. I talked to a local mechanic about this and he said this is to be expected as one phase out of three is supposed to be grounded. I'm not too sure about this, have you found similar configuration on a bike? Looking for some advice. Rad video! Really helped me to dig deep into my motorbike's charging issue.
Great video. I’m going to use it to figure out what’s wrong with my bike. I just died while riding but I still had lights, horn, etc. But the bike will not crank.
3:38 you said the normal ohms will be 0.22-0.34 ohm but after measuring the result you got altogher made up only 0.12 (after deducting resistance on the meter itself ) . how is that normal ???
Very insightful video thank you man it helped, the stater makes ac power and the rectifier converts it into volts (kinda the same way a brick works on your phone charger) I could be wrong tho
It's been a year since this video was posted, but maybe i can still get an answer. The last test you did (# 4), the ground test, i am getting between .2 & .4 on all 3 poles of the connector. Does this mean the stator windings are cooked? (2001 R6) New voltage regulator/rectifier, replaced the 1 that had a failed diode at end of last season. The battery holds 12.6 v. Recently 1 of the wires going to the regulator/rectifier got hot enough it melted & made contact with the others, short, fried main fuse. Repaired. But will happen again. Is the stator the problem here? Considering the ground test came back "positive." Thanks in advance. Great video by the way.
Hello. Thanks for watching. It’s seems to me that your conclusion are correct. Stator is the issue. On the fourth and final test you should not get any reading at all
Hello in my atv (access lander 300) in dynamic test on stator show 3.5 acv , 3.5acv and 6.5 acv. The other test is good but not charging the battery. The problem is the stator?
It’s does seem odd that one reading is much higher than the other two, so yes could be the stator. But I would also check the Regulator rectifier too before you take your ATV apart. Here’s how: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html
Cheers mate that was all very good mail, everything we need to know about stators & alt’s charging , the only other thing to test would be a regulator.. but the problem is the only way to check them (apparently) is a diode test which most basic multimeters don’t have. I notice yours doesn’t have it either, it’s the diode symbol together with a 2K symbol. ? Any thoughts on if there’s another way to test 3 phase regulators ? Cheers.
hello mate. I did end up testing the regulator too. And with the same multimeter. check out the video here> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mn6RtpdmeQE.html
