www.DaveMossTuning.com We move from tight twisty canyon roads to more open flowing roads. Can the suspension setup for canyon carving cope with a touring/commuting situation? Part 1: • Test & Review: 2020 MV... www.DaveMossTuning.com
Golden channel. I bought ER-6N last summer as a first bike. Made 4k km, 11k in total for the bike. Now It’s winter in Russia, so there is plenty of time to go through full inspection. David, your videos are golden! With your help I managed to service fork entirely, set up suspension and found out, that chain is done so I need to change it. The rest seems to be fine for now, according to manual. Thank you for informative and detailed videos!
Hi Igor. Thank you for taking the time to work with your motorcycle to make it right for you! I appreciate you using DMT content to help you with your tasks and thank you for your support and kind words!! :)
Thanks Dave, these are more the kind of roads I ride on. When you hit that bump and said 'That Hurts', that's exactly how I feel on my stock settings. Can't wait till spring to test it out again.
Absolutely fantastic. That street triple 765rs front end has been gobsmacking me for the longest time. And I had perhaps dialled in my chassis rebound just a bit too slow for quicker roads. Gonna try this same series of tests out. Now Dave makes it look very easy but after having tinkered for more than a year on multiple bikes, MAN is it tricky, getting all this chassis timing down right. Crazy
@@catalystreactionsbw I'm running the front end about a turn tighter for rebound and a turn and a half or 2 turns tighter on comoression than your 765 rs street setups (will cross check and post back). I believe you went in 1 and a half turns in from fully open for both reb and comp. Rear Comp and reb are both between 8-10. I'm still trying to figure the sweet spot for that. Bike is only 8k kms old. The difference cold to hot is far more pronounced in the front than the rear. And I really need me a front wheel chock
I think you should use that camera mount on TOP of the helmet - be proud of it! P.S. That road was pretty close to the roads in my area - your input will go miles toward helping me tune my bike! TYVM!!!
You got it backwards. On top won’t offer the cockpit view and the road. If you had it on top and you angled it down to show the gauge cluster it would then cut off much of the road view.....
Nice video. Giving on the road tests and all the adjustments you made was a real breath of fresh air. I was waiting for those words "heres a preview"..so glad they never appeared.
Hey Dave. Great videos but I do have one question! We found out that the fork-rebound was in the perfect position for passing the "test" (video 1). Now we took out a whole turn of rebound, which means that it will probably fail the test. Do we look past that, because we look at the tire/the feeling that it gives you? Best Regards, Bjarke
This was fantastic. I’ve had my F3 from new since 2018. Suspension settings are far too hard but I’ve not really know what I’m doing. This has inspired me to make them better for me and worse case scenario I’ll record the current setting to change back if I can’t figure it out 😅
The settings in the video will get you an excellent baseline. You will need different rebound settings as your oil will be older and have more miles on it. So I would suggest my settings to start then go .5 clockwise with rebound and ride again.
Thanks Dave, I have a GSXR and found it to be a compromise on bumpier roads where road compliance makes for a reasonable pleasant ride and a tighter chassis for smoother roads.
Camera mount was a little bumpy but, it did provide a good view angle. It also showed how useless those mirrors are. If your eyeballs were mounted on your chin the mirrors might work a little. Great video, Thank you.
Thank you so much dave! so much to learn about my bikes, watching the video made me realized that my bike is so good on track but so annoying on slow speed daily rides haha thanks again!
No doubt - track speeds and surfaces make our roads look terrible and with much less speed, suspension is very harsh on the roads. A couple of minutes with road settings ands you are back to a nice plush ride again :)
Very interesting and thanks. I'm (very) old school, that is non-adjustable forks and rear shocks a 'C' spanner and 3 settings. So the finite adjustments is alien to me. What I don't get is the seemingly lack of fine accuracy between both fork leg adjustments. By eye with the socket wrench would 3 or 4 degree difference in turns make the forks perform in an unbalanced way?
Hi Paul. Understood as that is exactly what I grew up with. Perhaps the best way of explaining it is that the valving in each leg is different so oil control and flow requires different adjustments. It would be similar to having different oil viscosity in each leg. Hope this helps!
Nice video ! Very useful 👌 Only the bike ergonomics.... clutch/ brake lever position 😲😆 haha I like you videos very much Go on! Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
IMHO it does not. I always dial in a chassis without a steering damper or turn it to zero. None of my race bikes have a steering damper. They are very useful tools when set correctly, but they should not be used to band aid an issue.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you, Dave. Your reply is much appreciated. I also appreciate your excellent reviews. My brother has bought a new F3 800 Rosso and wondered if it would need a damper to prevent tank slappers at high speed. I guess if it needed one MV Agusta would install one themselves.
@@stevenrobertson4190 Thanks for your kind words! Steering dampers are needed when fork rebound is too soft and the rear shock settings are too soft, creating an excessive shift in weight bias under acceleration. They serve an excellent role when installed and set correctly, but as with most motorcycles, they are an ancillary tool.
