I still have my drill from the late 80/s early 90 engine building.,it still has chevy orange engine paint on it...come to think of it that chevy orange would be cool on one of my tele/s...thanks bud...rock on
Brad, there is oatmeal in it. The hot water is steeped in it, along with the other grains and the "starch" produced reacts like sugar with the yeast creating alcohol. I make guitars and brew beer!
That's a solid idea about beers and tools segments....however I have to say throughout this video that glass had the same level of beer and didn't change lol.
Brad, thanks for the video. It may not have worked the way you wanted, and a buffer will always be superior. My last build was a Bass, I used Rustoleum automotive enamel white and clear using your methods. I sanded up to 2000 grit, and polished by hand with DuPont polishing compound. After that, I buffed it good with some good ol' turtle wax, and it came out fantastic, glossy and all, but you do have to use a lot of elbow grease. You can feel the heat from the friction. I think using the polish on the sandpaper is counter productive.
Yeah, the polish and paper method is interesting in theory but I’m not sure it makes all that much sense. The viewer who showed it to me seemed to get good results though. Hopefully I haven’t done it completely wrong haha.
I've always done that with car polish/wax and 1000-3000 paper grit with a 500 step increment, then just polish and no paper at the end and had super results. Well, can't say it's factory-grade since I can never get rid of the final circular "print mark" from my polishing process, but apart from that it's glossy as glass :)
thats not too bad. i have some silk matte spray lacquer that appears a high gloss when wet sanded to 3k grit. this woul probably be good for that.... but i mostly work on smaller stuff these days, so i just use a buffing wheel and compound on a dremel or lathe.
It looks like a much better surface than with p3000 alone. The concept makes a lot of sense. It’s a good lubricant to “wet” sand with. My guess is if you started with a fresh guitar, did the whole thing and moved up to 6000-8000 grit that when you stopped sanding it would be easy to hand polish the rest. Good work, as usual,
First don't get paint dust in that delicious beer. Second, I would love to see you do another part of this guitar using the same products and a little power, see if it finishes up better.
Hey Brad, nice intro to this different method! Thanks for the demo/try. This looks like a good start and next step over to the buffer (as you said). Are you using the Austor paper? Looks like another good product to try - thanks for the links!
Pints & Power Tools... I'd watch the heck out of that Brad... Oh, by the way, I got the Toasters onto proper beer a few weeks ago... Don't know if you caught their live stream on Mrs Toasts birthday, but I sent them a care package of proper Guinness all the way from rainy old Ireland... I don't think they were prepared for it's strength :-D
Hey Brad, There's a fellow RU-vidr Steve Wallis he does a camping/boondocking VLOG he also does that simular weight lifting Steve calls it "step 2" (as you call it, 'healrh tip excuse to drink beer on videos') he also is a Canadian . Canadians helping Canadians. I'm just saying... Best David
Not gonna get the high gloss, but it sure looks super smooth. Maybe you could try to buff by hand to see how it goes. Super fine polish and a rag could work. The color on this guitar is stunning BTW.
@@BradAngove Yeah, now that I remember I had a bad experience with microfiber. Anything has the potential to scratch the finish, but sometimes a piece of an old cotton t-shirt can do wonders.
This looks good but I'm slowly starting to develop allergy to hand standing so I'll look up how to buff with some power Thanks for the college try Cheers!
"If you don't have a drill...get a drill!" Words of wisdom haha. Thanks for these videos Brad. And if you start the Pints and Power Tools I'll subscribe to that one too...
Hi Brad, Your videos are great and very helpful. I'm building a double-neck guitar from a kit (as soon as USPS delivers it) and I plan to paint it with Duplicolor followed by the 2K clear coat. I intend to use decals on the headstocks to customize it with my own "brand." Do I put the decal on and then 2K over it? Or does the decal go on after the clear coat is on and dry? Thanks for your advice!
I'm all for saving a buck whenever I can but honestly a drill and buffing wheel or a buffer itself aren't really expensive at all and the process is faster and easier I'd actually argue it's worth the extra money just to not have to spend as much time or effort using this method sometimes you just have to suck it up and pay the money
I have to agree with that. But if you are doing it by hand, do your sanding first and then polish the crap out of it, and your results will be better. Using a buffer is better for sure.
@@jthonn ya ive buffed out a lot of finishes with a buffing cloth or microfiber cloth and buffing compound mostly for things like pool cues where using a buffer just doesn't make a ton of sense you'd be surprised what you can accomplish wet sanding to 2000 grit then buffing by hand with a rag
Ya, this method would have been cool if it worked, but it’s pretty easy to justify picking up a little buffing kit for the drill. It’s probably cheaper than the compound.
Ya a few years ago I went to AutoZone and picked up come cut and buff compound and polishing compound and the foam buffing attachment I think i paid about $30 for the whole setup and I had enough materials to polish a lot of guitars and pool cues I remember the first day I did two guitars and 3 cues and I barely made a dent in the bottles if you do the math you're basically paying pennies on the dollar per guitar if you just do it the conventional way
I just ordered an 11" Shinto rasp from Solo Guitars. Too bad I didn't know you were an affiliate, I'd have used your link. Sorry pal! If I ever order from them again, I'll keep you in mind. They just happened to be the only place I could find it in stock at a reasonable price in all of North America.
This looks similar to another polishing kit by behlen/mohawk that you actually included in a giveaway of yours a few months ago. You have also done a product review of that kit and it seemed to work better that this one
Ya, this isn’t quite a kit but both systems work. Just not using this technique haha. I used the Mohawk kit on lacquer, which in fairness is a bit softer and easier to polish.
I've been able to get results like that (maybe a little better, it's hard to tell from the vid) using those melamine "magic sponges" and water wrapped around a piece of rubber block. I think that they must be a grit equivalent to something between 3000 and 4000, but I guess it depends on the brand or manufacture of the "sponge".
Humidity can impact most paint types, so I would be hesitant to do that. It’s worse with lacquer though. Oil based paints aren’t necessarily as much of an issue.
Yes, but it wouldn’t be my first choice. I will be putting out a video soon on my favourite product for taking a neck finish from gloss to a beautiful satin.
I've done this before but it kills your sandpaper unless you wash the compound out afterwards. Its perfect for spot polishing and mobile car paint correction guys use this method without the beer as that will lose your driving licence quickly...
I also noticed a steep increase in number of advertisers as soon as you added Step 2, is it Step 2 that caused the increase? Things that make me go hmmmmm.... Best David, Is this a ASMR vid too, yikes lots of new 'methods here-in'
@@BradAngove As always Brad love your stuff great talent and applied careful skill I think you are a very good guitar builder a talented guitarist and a very skilled painter All the best my friend David Ha next time I'll talk about your really great atributes but for now I don't want your head to get so swelled up you can't wear your favorite ball cap without setting it up looser
BRAD, However there is a great RU-vidr mechanic Derek of Vice Grip Garage , he calls those health drinks wobble pops but whatever's your reason , cheer's & down the hatch. Sailor I used the hatch sailor connection, I can do that I was in the navy. Ha ha ha. Merry Christmas David Another fellow RU-vidr , & Canadian Steve Wallis , camping & boondocking calls those health drinks, "Step 2" so those from the Great White North have a long and stout history of health drinks or whatever you might call them, 🍺 cheers
I don't understand using the compound with sandpaper....??!! Those are the instructions from Jescar? I can tell you that I was not in the least surprised by the results. The sandpaper thing is just really strange to me.....lol. Here's my 'logic' on it. If you're using 1500 grit paper with a compound that says it will remove 1500 grit scratches you're simply removing and then re-scratching the surface as you 'polish', no? I mean why would the compound prevent the 1500 grit from doing what it does? I don't get it!!! It might be useful to do another test using the two compounds as you normally would, on a pad with your drill.
Honestly, you know what, I would say we should consider this like training wheels for someone who isn't as confident with wet/dry or accidentally sands through the finish, but still wants to decrease that margin of error. This will help as a good lubricant I think, but you're still going to need to finish it up with buffing compound and swirl remover, followed by a carnauba to finish.
To bad it didn’t work. Always looking for a good way to shine repairs without using the bug wheel. The guitar tech in me cringed every time you slid the guitar on the gritty bench. Please use a pad underneath.
Ohhhh! Cringing like hell when I hear the polished back scraping against the workbench! Hahahaha! Even if it is a $10 or $1000 body , you always protect the back...
Kind of sound muffled the last couple of videos, are to make out what you say at times, like the name of the products you are using, I have no clue what you are saying.