Testing a rectifier 

Great video like always, love the simplistic approach to explaining things. Also refreshing to see someone that isn't afraid to show when they don't know something.

The memories that brings back... I attended an automotive tech school right after high school. They had all the different sections broke down into separate classes, electronics I and electronics II being two of them. We wound up being able to design and build all kinds of circuits from simple park lamps to digital instrument displays, we learned a lot. Might have to go dig out my old course books to reread.

I have an old 1981 Kawasaki KZ305 motorcycle with a single phase rectifyer that has pretty much the same wire setup. This video actually helped me diagnose my electrical issues that I've been having recently. Thanks for this. =)

This fine vid, the follow up in description and Ron Powell's furthering knowledge has expanded this old man's chance of fixing his charging problem, much appreciated from Western Canada.

Awesome Stu. I think out of all the different types of troubleshooting one can accomplish on a machine, the electrical portion is the one that’s most difficult for people to understand the theory of. You made this easy to understand with your drawings and thorough explanation. Excellent as always!

Finally found someone with good content in Australia. Keep up the good work!

Stu, I really like your style. Testing electrical component is the hardest for me. Most of them aren't that simple, they usually come with hidden electronic components making any reading erroneous. Rectifier is one of them with the embeded regulator, CDI is another one. For rectifiers testing, what I am doing now is testing the AC out of stator and the DC to the battery. If the DC is all over the place but AC ok then I'll replace the rectifier. Even that isn't bullet proof as some tachometer take their input from the AC and a faulty tach could mess up the whole thing. Thank you for posting that video, it feels real. Great job! Cheers.

Great video. I went through this when I first got my boat. The previous owner (who just hammer bashed lugs onto the battery leads) didn't have red heat shrink or even red electrical tape. And being a first time boat owner, when I took the battery off to charge it, I made the HUGE mistake of reverse polarity! I didn't know how bad it is for an outboard, and should have traced the leads before connecting. Lesson learned! My boat still ran for a while then all the problems came. Burnt wires exiting the regulator/rectifier, battery always weak, and Tach broken. Ordered a knockoff rectifier off Ebay and had the same problems. Ordered another and installed it and fixed my problems. I also had to cut and add several new wires that were badly burnt. The easiest test I found (besides seeing the tech working) was checking the battery voltage with a multimeter. Before it was in the 12 area. After the new rectifier the voltage was somewhere in the upper 13s. So I knew my battery was being charged. I've read stories where it gets REAL BAD. Basically destroying Stator and the whole electrical system and wiring.Thank God my mistake didn't end like others. I was pissed at the time dealing with all of this, but now consider myself lucky Edit...Today I checked with voltmeter and with a good regulator rectifier I get mid 14s(showing its charging). I cant remember exactly what is was before I got it working but It was probably low 13s

Thanks Stu, I finally made the wall👍 Cool video on a rectifier. Allot gong on with outboard engines which is an amazing piece of machinery. One of the most important is keeping the battery charged up when running

The big heat sink body gives a clue that the unit is a rectifier and a voltage regulator in one unit. The smaller unit is definitely a rectifier only. That .5 volt (often quoted as .6volts for silicon devices) is why a rectifier gets hot. Say the alternator has a rating of 20amps, to get DC watts (heat) simply multiply Volts x amps, so of the power generated, 10 watts is thrown away as heat by the rectifier. How hot is 10 watts? Try holding a powered up 12watt car tail light in your bare hands - you wont be holding that globe for long! And as electronic devices are easily destroyed by heat, the designers work hard to get rid of the heat as fast as they can. That small rectifier body is about what I would expect to be able to handle 10- 20 watts. That big Yamaha unit is more like 150-250 watts when it is bolted to the engine. The alternators on a most outboards are permanent magnet types with the magnets being part of the fly wheel mass. There fore , the alternator makes full power ALL the time the motor is spinning. So if your battery needs 15 amps to charge and your boat electrical load is 5amps, that 20 amp output is all going to be absorbed and the regulator will barely get warm . But as the battery charges, the current it will absorb will drop, so at full charge your battery may only accept 1 amp , your boat load is still 5amps, so only 6amps is being absorbed. But the alternator always produces 20amps, and if you do not do anything with that unwanted 14 amps , the voltage will rise to some where around the 18 to 20 volt mark, which will blow up 12v electronic items, burn out pumps fast and kill your battery pretty quickly. So these alternators use what is known as a series or 'bypass' regulator. Basically they turn the extra power into heat and throw that heat away. The amount of power turned into heat is controlled by the voltage needed on the output. In our case it is typically 13.8 to 14.2 volts for a 12 volt boat. So a device in the regulator ( another diode called a zener diode) is used. The zener diode is special in that it is designed to conduct power at a specific voltage. In our case, it would be a 12volt zener, hooked up to a big transistor (not an SCR) in such a way that once the zener passes a voltage (ie, the alternator output is going higher than 12 volts ) , the zener turns on, which turns on the big transistor a bit. That transistor then converts part of the alternator output to heat which absorbs the unwanted amps. In our example the zener would turn on the transistor pretty hard and turn 14 amps into heat . 14 amps at 13.8 volts is nearly 200 watts ( 2 x 100watt spotlights held in your hand!) - so that heat sink has to be big to get rid of the heat. Some outboards actually run cooling water through the heat sink to get rid of the heat . There is more than just a zener and a transistor in a regulator but they are the main working bits. And those extra bits is why a simple multimeter test is useless for a rectifier/regulator unit. You need a test rig ( 18Vac output transformer, a few globes as a switchable load would be simple to make) to test those. Some low out put alternators ( the Johnson 50ESL74M for example) are only 6 amp total output. So they run a rectifier only. And you act as the regulator by watching the voltmeter. If the voltage goes above about 15 volts you turn on more electrical load like your nav lights, step lights etc until the voltage stops going up. Pretty crude and hard on your electrics if you get distracted. Many four strokes have a small car type alternator that works a totally different way so if you have one of those, don't go looking for a big regulator like the Yamaha one Stu shows in the video- there wont be one.

Hi Stu, yep, they don't call it electrickery for nothing, do they.The depth of your knowledge never ceases to astound me..Good work and many thanks.

Another piece of evidence that it has a regulator built in would be the input AC voltage. When you rectify AC the DC voltage will be about 1.4 times the AC RMS voltage (assuming single phase, it's sqrt(2), if 3 phase it's sqrt(3), but this is for a single phase rectifier ). So setting the multimeter to AC volts and probing the alternator should give you an RMS voltage. If it's just a rectifier with no regulator, we would expect to see about 13.8/sqrt(2) which is about 9.7 volts. If the input voltage is higher, dollars to donuts you have a linear regulator like a LM317, LM7812 (or similar) internally which is the part that will generate most of your heat based on how much current you draw and the voltage difference between input and output. Thanks for sharing! I'm recommending this video to a friend :)

Your video Made it really easy to understand the rectifier I love the way you drew it out on the chalkboard and everything thanks a lot man appreciate it

Remember you don’t get a perfect diode, there always is some reverse leakage current and that explains the reading you get when measuring between the red and black wires. Reverse leakage current differs from diode to diode as well, so even the one that gave no reading still has reverse leakage, your multimeter just couldn’t measure it. You also have a forward voltage drop which is around 0.3V per diode, so for a full bridge rectifier you will drop around 0.6V. The resistance that causes the forward voltage drop as well as the reverse leakage will cause heat hence the heat sink.

Simply the best explanation i have seen Yet. And i have seen manyyyyy videos on utube and school and this by far is the best

Just a side note. My rectifier in a 1991 Johnson 225 hp had a bad rectifier. Part of the troubleshooting was if the tach was going crazy which it did. That rectifier was cooled by the water system. Thanks for jumping into electrical theory which most would avoid. Enjoyed it.

Enjoyed the video, always informative - Thanks Stew.

Beautiful !! This answers my question posted on the installation video of the rectifier. (When testing without the battery.) Thank you !

Great video again explaining how a many outboard charging systems work. The rectifier you drew is exactly what you find on low power (6 amp and 9 amp) charging systems. An easy way to identify that simple rectifier is on Mercury's it looks like a small gray plastic diamond and on the OMC stuff it's the little cylinder rectifier see link below. I am not sure what Yamaha and others use. Either way charging systems that have higher outputs like a 16 amp system also incorporate what is called a zener diode circuit. I do not think they are SCRs. A zener diode will allow current flow when the voltage hits a certain level. So on an outboard like the Yama-dog you showed when the voltage exceeds somewhere between 14 and 15 volts the zener diode will dump that excess current (I think to ground but not 100% sure) so you do not over charge the battery and fry the electronics on the boat. These rectifier/regulators as I consider them are what your Yamaha had and most outboards have any more. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=581778 SCR switches are used in Power Packs and Switch Boxes they are activated by a small electrical current and will continue to conduct electricity until the power source is completely discharged. Trigger Coil sends a some current to SCR in Switch Box SCR closes circuit and it stays closed until the capacitor in the Switch Box discharges completely to the ignition coil. Like a transistor but a transistor needs constant current to activate where an SCR only needs monetary current to be activated. I use to demonstrate this to my students with lights when I taught boat mechanics. Great video sorry for the long post.

I love the chalkboard! Just like gradeschool!! Thats how teaching should be done! We thank you sir!!

Hello from sunny south Florida. Please consider posting a Patreon link so that I can pledge to your channel. You are the best instruction on the web for outboards. Thank you.

Wow I never knew interesting stuff 👌🏼 love your videos

Thanks for another great video. One question though, to measure if the charging works I guess it is just to measure the voltage over the battery in running condition and expect that it should but be higher than nominal value? With that in mind what value one should expect to have (13 to 14 volts?) for a Johnson 50 hp out boarder? Sid

On the old cars the gen idiot light would come on with the ignition switch off. Problem was the bridge rectifier had a diode failure letting the battery discharge. I also had an alternator (DELCO) that had a diode go bad in the diode trio in the alt. The symptom was the choke/ buzzer coming on at low rpms. If yo can get to the diodes, you can check each with the ohm/meter.

just wanted to say thanks, with your vids I was able to rebuild my carbs, water pump etc..keep up the great work. you're fellow boater in Michigan.

Hi Stu, I was hoping that you might be accepting work during winter. i went to change the gearbox oil on a 2000 150hp johnson and water came out. i'm down the f3 in rooty hill. the gearbox is off the motor. thank you

Remember resistance will lie to you but voltage will not. Depending on your meter wired internally. Diode check one direction and then reverse bias and you should get a quick beep with your meter.

Very good job on explaining very big help thank you

Thanks very much for this. I haven't yet done the diode test you've described, but I have a problem that when the red lead out of the rectifier is connected to my Yamaha 9.9 outboard's inline 10A fuse, the fuse blows as soon as I start the engine. If I start the engine without the red lead connected, the engine runs fine, but of course I have no charge. Is this probably a broken rectifier?

The 2 blobs that showed ~1V across them are actually rectifier/regulators. They have a monster zener diode that starts conducting at ~14V in the reverse (breakdown) direction internally. The 1V you were seeing is it conducting (poorly) in a forward bias mode. The manufacturers do this since windings and permanent magnets form a generator that pumps more current out the faster you spin them. They would soon go to 16 or 20V and blow all consumer electronics in the boat. You can do voltage regulation with transistor circuits but it costs more. Most motorcycles do this too.

Awesome video ( best one!) but have a question: on rectifier of my motorcycle I also have 4 wires: red one goes to battery, ground and then a white one coming from engine and yellow one also coming from engine. When I see your video I understand that AC coming from my white and yellow (2 H) is turned into DC going via the red one to battery (charging). My question: the yellow wire does not only go to the rectifier but also to the lights (the white wire only goes to the rectifier). All other electric components (turn signal, brake,light, stop light ...) take their power from the battery. The front lights however do not take their power from the battery, but from the yellow wire that comes from the engine and is also connected to the rectifier. Does this then actually mean that the lights still work on AC (and why is it connected like that then. And why are the front lights connected like this and do they not take power from battery. On another engine of mine I only have 1 yellow wire coming from engine (of course I also have the wires coming from ignition and going to CDI, but I have only 1 wire for lights and ?battery?). Does this mean that I connect that yellow wire on the left ‘H’ and on the right ‘H’ as well and that is also have my lights on one of these H’s. Last one: could I aslo just run my lights on the battery and not have them on the yellow whire that comes from engine and goes to rectifier? Many many thanks for helping.

I know it's a long shot but I bought a mercury 150 optimax and have to install/connect the oil reservior to the vro/motor. Any chance on a video like that? Either way, your video catalog is awesome. Keep it up duder.

Any suggestions on my Deere lt160 16hp kohler. I replaced the bad wiringbharness the main one after buying it reasonable and once done charged battery and started it and the regulator heats up at the wire connectors. The regulators replaced with no change so is the battery bad but it holds a charge or the stator bad.

Hi there, I have a triumph street triple r 2011 and am having problems with keeping the battery charged. I did the diode test - with the positive probe on the negative connection i was getting a reading in the 500's on all pins of the rectifier, but with the negative probe on the positive connection i was getting a reading in the 130's on all pins (note my diode tester shows readings differently, e.g. as 138 not as 0.138). Does this imply the rectifier is the problem? Thanks.

Great video! like always.

i was going in circles testing my yamaha gp1200 rectifier, as ive got the ski apart, blown stator. i got similar results to you in the video i was wondering if there was more to this rectifier also. i went back to looking at it and if you refer to the workshop manual it does say there the continuity across 1 of the green wires back to negative. but i couldnt get past all the videos/ websites of i guess more simple rectifiers in my circles i ordered a Chinese replacement $20. bugger probally didnt need too :) then i seen your video thanks

Hello Stu, enjoy your videos! I just bought a small speedboat with an Evinrude 60hp VRO2. The engine runs great, but not as much smoke as I expect from a 2stroke. Would you bypass the VRO? Or would you keep using it? It works like it should (i think... as every few seconds the engine puffs some blue smoke when idling)... but I just am not able to really trust it 😐 I would run 50:1 in the fueltank, and maybe even get another fuel pump? (As I’ve read on forums that some people get air leaks in their fuel lines when running premix through the VRO fuel pump (and the engine bogging down). Am I overthinking this? Am I worrying too much about the whole VRO thing? (The internet poisoned my mind) or would you also get rid of it? Thanks Stu!

Thanks for the video, very informative! Was not receiving charge to battery so tested my regulator/rectifier as per your instructions Red gave me .226 and then .226 when reversed Grey gave me .996 and then 0 when reversed Purple gave me .996 and then 0 when reversed Looks like the positive is allowing current to flow both ways and it's cooked and i'm up for $400. Am I right in assuming that if the rectifier was good I should have got the same .996 reading in only one was as with the other wires? Cheers, keep up the good work, love the channel!

I have a 1989 force 50 outboard with no spark on cylinder 2 only, so I checked everything but the rectifier. Will no spark be caused by bad rectifier? I read disconnecting all wires from the rectifier would help bring spark back? Also my ohm test result was off the charts' jumping up and down between 1300-1800k ohms.

I just went through an old 60 hp mercury and had to test all the wiring and components and ended up buying another boat for my Dad as I almost gave up. Parts are getting hard to come by for the oldies and I learned to always check your system is charging. If the rectifier goes it builds up alot of heat and does alot of damage to other things. 40 yr marine mechanic shared this while selling me some parts. Bottomline ....diy In this case a complete wiring redo including the wires from the stator. New rectifier and new switch box. Runs like champ now.

Hay mate hope your well sorry u probably get this lots got a 1992 johnson 50hp 2 cylinder I noticed the wire for the voltage regulator where bridged positive to negative from stator and from cdi pack so was shorting the gauges and found this issue. Long story short we left ramp putted out at 4knots went to open it up only half throttle pull up have a look around can't see anythink no leaks nothink then start it up and off she go's on plan run good for awhile stop fish move around a few spots then bam again nothink over half throttle again stop play around and start it a few times then good again also struggled to start without choke and wouldn't idle while the problem was happening. Had all new fuel line and tank and I've had it at the shop for a service and tune before this test the owner before disconnected the vro but have only removed the tank and the wires from tank and left the other wires. Since I've had a play with it I fixed the voltage regulator wires got gauges working now nothink when I tested a plug lead off motor it wouldn't get any ohms so I've replaced that any tips or idea's would be appreciated as I've spent a shit load at the shop with no luck when I rang are local johnson experts they said a ignition fault that's how I found the voltage regulator wires would that cause the issue won't do it in the 44gallon tank or the muffler on any tips please sir want to get my little girl out there

A friend: "Hey Doc, why you putting that rectifier in my butt?" Doc: "That isn't a rectifier."

Thanks for the good info.

Hey Stu. So I see your working on a 30hp Johnson. I have a 35hp, 1976 and there's a driveshaft seal on mine that goes over the shaft after the spacer but the manual dosent say how to install it or what it's for. Do you know?? And does it affect the water pump??

watching this brings back memories of why I only completed 2yrs of my marine mechanics apprenticeship, electrical principles made me want to self harm. My brain isn't cut out for it, I always had too many questions because shit just didn't add up.

Thanks for rectifing that for me. fawk electrics are mind numbing. hows the weather there are ya fishin at all. Peace love and blessings from Alberta Canada.

Thank you. It was very good video I want to ask you about this I have a bad rectifier on my 1992 40hp mercury outboard 4 cylinder oil injected 1st question. Does a rectifier have effect on cdi box and electric parts in the motor if it does not work properly or it just charge the battery, in my case it charge to 16v DC when I test the battery 2nd question. Does the motor need the battery connected to run or just for starting Can i start the motor and disconnect the battery without disconnect the rectifier or the the opposite observation. The reason for this questions that we don't have replace parts in our country

So I recently bought a used rectifier because my tach signal was not coming from the rectifier so I replaced it thinking the rectifier was bad. Did the test on new used rectifier as you have shown Neg MM lead to Positive rectifier wire Positive MM lead to tach and ground wires (white & Yellow) got reading reversed no reading. Thought all was well. started up and not tach signal and battery was not charging?

great video...could a bad rectifier be why my battery is draining after a couple of days of sitting around?

hi, i have a 1999 r6 ,when i put my positive probe on the negative pin on the rectifier i get a reading of .640 in 2 of the yellow wires and .550 in the 3rd wire and i get the same readings with the negative probe on the positive pin ,my stator readings are perfect ,my wire connections all seem fine , my battery charges to 13.50v when idling and 13.90v at 4000rpm , my battery drops to 11.90v once i turn my lights on and on another note my hi beams dont work which is aniother issue im trying to figure out ,would there be a bad relay or a short causing the battery to not charge when the lights are on thanks for any help

Where can I find the rectifier on a 85 150hp Evinrude?

Can you explain how you measure voltage, when your multi meter in range to measure ohms?

totally off topic question: what kind of tips do you have on your multimeter probes? I got a few different tips to add to mine, but my existing probes are too thin and don't fit securely. It looks like whatever you have on yours is what I need on mine.

Stu if im seeing voltage over 17V when outboard is running im assuming the regulator part of the rectifier has failed. What should the max voltage roughly be if the regulator is working? Ive gone through a few rectifiers now trying to find one that actually regulates the voltage. Motor yamaha 25hp 2stroke model 25elhs

Hey thx. The seal was for water pressure.. so need some advice. My engine is 42 years old, 2stroke 35hp Johnson.it came with a boat I bought and had over heated cause the water pump impeller failed and blew head gasket. So I've got it back running, my ? Is since the engine is so old what should I replace far as part I found lot of loose bolts on powerhead so am thinking all gasket. Leaf valves on intake. I've got a new fuel pump. Carb kit. Do you think I should consider doing any work to pistons far as bearing, rings and crank seal. Or no. Sry for asking so much. Tell me what you would do plz.thx

Electrics, it's like a dark art. I'll stick to the mechanical stuff, but great video all the same.

Hi guys how can identify the ac and dc terminals for ZPQ20A rectifier thanks.

Hay Dangar, I need your help, I have a mercury 75 2 stroke, I have burnt yellow plugs from my stator to my regulator rectifier, it's missing at high rpm and also my tach is All over the place. I've tested my stator but seams to be in my manual spec, my manual does have a rectifier test but is a 3 post one, my motor has a 6 wire regulator rectifier but I can't find any info online on how to test, I just don't want to buy a new one and then find out it's not the problem

I’m getting .43 from positive to green on both but 2.9 from negative to green on both also I can get current back 2.9 to the negative from the green this is a year 2000 mercury 90hp 2 stroke and is not charging I replaced the stator as well please help is my rectifier bad?

Love the videos

Hi. I have a evinrude 150xp 35amp. I bought a rectifier regulator and it came out defective twice. I would like to know how to test it. It has two yellow cables, one gray, one purple, and one red.

It would have been cool if you did a collaboration video with the EEV blog on this one. Not that you did a bad job, just thought it would be kinda neat. Of course I'm not even sure if he is anywhere near you..

Does it matter witch ac wires go on the rectifier ac terminals , is there a negative or positive , thanks

Hi I have a 2002 mercury and I'm told I cannot run agm batteries. Is this true How do I overcome this problem thanks

That diagram on the chaulk board reminds me of that chick at the bar in Total Recall.

Hey stu so I took the exhaust cover off to check water passages and found the inner exhaust cover which is then stainless steel is badly warped I can't find a replacement on marine engine or anywhere else. Should try to hammer it flat on make a new one ( 35hp Johnson 2stroke 1976.)thx.

I measured my Yamaha rectifier SH656CA, 4 pins (+, Gnd, H1, H2). Multimeter : diode mode. Only H2 gave the value. Can I conclude that my rectifier is broken ?? Even I measured when Engine Off : battery voltage is 12.4V. and during engine on / higher RPM. battery voltage is still raising ( up to 13.5V) So I think my rectifier is Normal.

It is funny you posted this video this week because I just had a customer who did not know why his battery kept discharging. What was wrong with his Mercury was that it had a failed rectifier/regulator. $210.00 part from Mercury if you can maybe do a video on how to trouble shoot an outboard charging system failure. The basic procedure is the same regardless of the manufacture. If you do produce this video please let people know that hooking the battery up backwards and loose battery connections is what commonly damages these charging systems.

1 was just watching this vid and you got a mention

interesting. what i have found over my years is to test the system as a whole. then break it down from there. although a charge coil tests ok by resistance standards it can still be shorted. best is to check the running voltage output ac volts of the charge coil with and without the rectumfriar hooked up. it should be nearly the same. if it drops drastically then you need to see if it is the regulator shorted to ground (or earth as you call it.) or a momentary open in the charge coil under load(unusual) a shorted recumfriar when the output is isolated from the earthing and battery will have no dc output and little or no ac on the coil. an open will have no dc output but good ac input. also note the minimum ac voltage at idle. there should be a specification for that. generally above 25 volts ac on a 12 volt system. regulators can have wires to hook to a light or ammeter and/or ign turn on connections tach outputs etc. so having the correct service information is a must. your explanation of recification being spot on but throw a regulation in the fray rather complicates things. just more to go wrong lol. the system is no different that that in any auto just they put the components in different places instead of that shiny aluminum case. thanks for the video. these can be fun to sort out cheers

Quick question. I just got a 15hp honda. One of the square shaped ones. Just wondering what oil to use for engine a d gearbox? And what spark plugs. Anyone any advice? Also can I use car oil?

Thanks..

i have a problem, seems when i turn on the power, smoke comes from my rectifier, 90hp 1995 evinrude. this cant be good

i looking at the 12amp charger has 40amp recfier in them , 12v and 6v and high and low , its wont charge anything , good transformater read 50 hz , 230v to 24v 12v on ac side , nothing out to output lead

Hi dangar marine. I writing to you from Turkey. I have evinrude 1996 50 hp carb. 585001 rectifier on the engine. Key is half while system check alarm have light. Idle rpm while, 12.9 - 13.2 volt charging. Wot rpm while, 15.5 - 16.2 volt charging. Do you think the is a problem ? I think problem in rectifier. Your videos very explanatory. What the value for My rectifier (585001 - 5 wire) voltage value ? I would appreciate if you help.

What happen to the newer video going to Sydney Habour

Interesting.

OK. Where do the t shirts come from? MAybe I want to see myself on YT.

What are the symptoms of a bad rectifier?

Anything on Cathodic Protection?

what if i measured 0.04 volts instead of 0.554?

Like the videos just found your channel can't get trim guage to work on 94 150 Johnson just a idea for a video thanks Tennessee river

I thought the voltage from a stator was 3 phase. Am I wrong?

You disappointed me, you didn't cover the protons, neutrons and electrons part?

I'm more lost now...lol

I SEE YOU ARE A YAMMAHA MAN DO YOU WORK ON MERCURY OUTBOARD VIDEOS

Do you have a public email address I can email you? I have the opportunity to buy a 1993 Crownline 182BR but it has a cracked block. Wondering what options I would have. Most engines are $1,000USD + and I don't think the boat is worth that (will need interior soon).

But is it a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!?

As one who would rather ask an expert, both you and your friend have failed to determine if any components are defective. Bring in an engineer, I just want to fix my bike.

You lost me..maybe my local outboard shop can test a rectifier for me if need be..if it doesnt cost too much,,hopefully

I have a 10 HP outboard motor that nèeds Model# SJ10RPLH Ser.# G 03766761 (USA) I need for it : AC charge coil DC rectifier power pack. Do you know where i can these ?