TFS How To Build A Forward Facing Turbo Manifold Part 2 

Thanks for watching! Good luck in the industry! Education will get you much farther and faster.

Thanks for watching and your service! Good luck in the civvy life wen you're done.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

That's a good tip, I didn't think of that

Enjoy! (You're the first comment by the way)

Thanks!

Thanks for the sub! Good luck in the future!

Austin Gutknecht It happens to me if I'm really close to the weld, but I usually consider it before I make a pass.

Congrats! Good luck!

I don't know if you got the job or not but this is one of the best comments ever! I've been welding for close to 20 years with a stick, mig & spool gun but never had the opportunity to learn to use a TIG. My brother, who was a welder for years gave me a TIG machine about 2 years ago (including some consumables & an empty argon tank. Beggars can't be picky!) His response to me asking him to come give me some lessons was "You're one of the smartest guys I know, you'll figure it out." My business keeps me pretty busy and I messed around with it for about 15 minutes one day (using the Argon tank from my Miller 210 for the spool gun) and quickly realized that I needed some direction. This machine has more switches and dials than a Boeing 747.... I'm happy to say that yesterday I had my first lesson on TIG from another guy I recently met who's a welder. I was relieved to not be as confused as I was expecting & I'm excited to get practicing!

ScienceofSpeed, I agree 💯%, I see the owner experiencing boost creep with a small tube at 90deg and a small WG. A new 44mm WG would help but it might not be enough.

Thanks!

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Thank you!

Thank you!

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Thanks!

I'll keep it in mind. Thanks!

to add to this topic, avoid Vinyl type gloves, acetone melts it lol, learned that the hard way

Maybe also a disc guard on the grinder....😉

Gloves and guards..... Definitely not the Gen X crowd😅. Most welder's livers are pickled anyway and remember safety third. If there's no element of danger it's probably not worth doing 😁

I'm joking y'all, calm down 🤙🏻

Thanks for watching!

Right on. It's becoming a hot topic for a lot of viewers. Thanks for watching!

At the end of the day, it's really not that complicated if you just break down the process. Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

That is a very long response haha. If I can get it in a video, I will.

Thanks for the come back.

Ben Kramer If you want to know more than you could EVER use on that topic, join the Speedtalk forum. The maths & stuff are common kind of topics on the advanced engines tech forum

Haha, no worries. I'm backed up on video production right now anyway.

Can only make the best out of what is available. Its all build specific.

Putting the waste gate right on the turbine housing would have probably worked well for this build. And been easier to do.

If I can make it happen I will.

Awesome :D Next month me and a tig welding buddy is making UEL headers for my NA subaru impreza :D I'm going to apply some of what I've learnt from your videos - we will also be making a time lapse video :D

Material and coating are two separate things. The reason for using stainless is because it will withstand more heat and resist the corrosive nature of exhaust gasses. The purpose of the ceramic coat is to contain most of the heat which will allow greater throttle control and response from the turbo. The more heat that stays in the manifold before the turbo - the better it will perform. Stainless just holds up better in the long run.

@@TheFabricatorSeries just wondering what grade stainless you're using? 304 312? Thanks!!

It's called back purge and the gas he is using is Argon they use it to shield the weld from the inside.

I like the uniformity of a single direction so I always try to maintain it throughout. Every great once in a while I will encounter a tight spot where I have to change direction. If the stickout is causing jumping, you need more gas coverage. That's why I use the larger cups. Tight spaces are usually conquered with more stickout. Some spaces in this vid looked almost impossible to weld,but it was just the camera angle. If you do not actually have the space, you need to weld each runner individually before welding to the assembly. I use both 1/16 and 3/32. I switch them up depending on thickness of the material and space requirements.

GoldHawg As an assembly, it's almost impossible to block off individual ports. I also don't weld one runner at a time to minimize distortion.

Thanks. Amazing that not only do you serve us by making great videos, but also answering posts that show up a year later. I've just made a similar purge manifold for a SS header and I was thinking of just doing the purge one port at a time, but I'll go ahead and plumb it the same way you did.

Everyone does it different.... If it gets the job done then its all good...

It is AC/DC. The wave is soft square and nothing else is adjustable.

Matt Dehnert To be very straight forward about it, there's not a whole lot of detail to get into on either part. A pre-made collector is just that. All you do is weld it to a flange. Welding the collector or runners isn't very specific. It's just like welding any other part. I'll get to explaining how to make a merge collector in another episode, but what specifically do you want to know about welding them?

The Fabrication Series #1: where do you get a pre-fabbed sch 40 collector? #2: is there a particular cup setup or purge procedure for welding the inner part of the collector that you use?

Matt Dehnert There are a handful of online stores that sell merge collectors. All you need to know is the size of the pipe (diameter and schedule), and the size of the flange you want it to fit. Purging is something I'll get into in a future episode. There isn't a specific procedure to it other than making sure there is argon inside of it.

The Fabrication Series I can only find sch 10 collectors. Guess I'll have to look harder.

Matt Dehnert You can build with either size. I only chose 40 because it needs to hold the weight of a larger/heavier turbo. Almost every manifold I build is usually 10, which is most common. However, there are a handful of stores that sell in schedule 40.

"Easier" is up to the person doing the job. There was plenty of access on this piece, so welding as an assembly ensured there would be less distortion. Either method works (and I use both on different manifolds). Thanks for watching!

Long stickout and good gas coverage will get into tight spaces. There was quite a bit of space on this manifold but I couldn't capture it all on camera because I was in the way of the shot when I was welding. It's mostly just camera angles that made it look extremely tight. However, if you don't have the space to weld as an assembly, you need to weld the runners individually before welding to the assembly.

jzrchassis Popular technique. I think I saw something like that on a forum a while back. I'll see about using a different setup but the best way to prevent the blade from deflecting is to let the saw do the work. don't force it to cut - just let it cut.

Hard for me to answer haha. I've never had studs break off before. You can use additional bracketing, but if the design of the manifold allows for too much flex during heat cycling, the bracket or the manifold will likely break or crack.

Its one of the full race ram horns for a honda b series. I'm at a loss after breaking I don't know how many sets, so was thinking about some sort of bracket.

It varies per application. There is no set number since builds are all different.

It varies on each weld. Some welds use 1/16, others use .040. Amperage also varies per weld location. The machine you use also makes a difference.

I actually have a biased opinion on this haha. I do not like using the cut and splice method. I prefer to engineer and build a part from scratch because it gives me more options and control over the outcome of the product. It's also easier (for me) to build it all from scratch 99% of the time. Not all subframes require bending. Amazingly enough, they are one of the few pieces that can almost always be built without using a single bend as long as your design allows it. Just like any other custom component, you will need to come up with a well engineered design and give it a lot of attention. Many of the principals I have demonstrated in my vids can be applied to a custom subframe.

Thank you. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. I may just need make my own then and not having to buy a bender is definitely convenient. Since I am a structural engineer by education, I definitely plan to engineer it to work better than factory, but since it is a new application for me, the experience is what I am lacking as a hobbyist. Do you have any advice on how to calculate engine loads in something like an SR20 that would allow me to start with a tentative member/beam size? Even something like what a typical tube size would be in a tubular front subframe? The "fabricator" in me wants to mimic the factory design with additional reinforcing but since it is stamped, there won't be an easy way to calculate strength or flex. I'll need to create my own that hits all of the mounting points while leaving enough room for critical components. Since it's an SR 20 into a mini cooper chassis, space is going to be the biggest challenge. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to more videos

Ive done several front Clip swaps and have never needed to fab a subframe. Ive always used the subframe from the clip and then fab custom motor mounts. What engine are you (or did you) putting into what chassis?

mason8725 gas coverage to better shield the weld when welding. the ceramic cups allow you to get in tighter areas to tack it in place

The larger cup provides more coverage during welding (as mentioned). It's not needed for tack welding. You could use a regular #8 gas lens for the whole project but you would have to make smaller welds to keep the coverage contained. Being clear is just the product. They make them in ceramic as well.

peter ferri the manifold itself was done in 3 days on camera. I usually get it done in about half that (I build a lot of manifolds). The intercooler piping was done in one day and the rest of it was on and off for a couple weeks. I think I had the car for the full transformation for about 3 weeks or so.

It depends on the manifold. Use the size and radius you need.

I can.

The Fabrication Series how much would that cost?

Justin S I cut another elbow from the head flange and switched them out.

Anywhere between $900 and $1,400 depending on design (and builder)

I buy them from a vendor (wholesale). A quick online search for "Weld-El's" will net many results.

I've seen it done with a MIG but the welds might not hold as true and if you don't use stainless wire, it will not last as long.

I've seen it done with a MIG but the welds might not hold as true and if you don't use stainless wire, it will not last as long.

+Javier Broger I honestly don't remember unless I said it in the episode. I build so many of these and this was done a while ago.

The Fabrication Series no worries thanks for your answer

Miller Diversion 180

Cool thanks