"In the tractor world there are two kinds of guys, those who have never had any problems in 20 years, and those of us that USE our tractors." Absolutely the most truthful statement I've ever heard regarding tractors. 👍
I have 200 hours on my 2025R, much of it crashing in the woods with a grapple... I had hydraulic line damage, tire valve damage, light cover broken, hydraulic leaks, hood damaged .... all on your list.. in addition I had bent 3 point hitch bars, missing bolts and clips of various sizes. All in all, very satisfied with the tractor. Zero engine, electrical or transmission issues.
re Greasing mower spindles, some spindles have sealed bearings and greasing does absolutely no good for the bearing. Know which ones you have. Additionally most spindles have replaceable bearings that cost only a few dollars vs $75-$95 for a complete spindle.
Master C you made a very good point about routinely exercising the PTO solenoid valve. This goes for any valve really. I have seen many issues over the years caused by valves that were not used for a long time getting stuck by having dried crud in the spool bores preventing the spools from fully opening or closing. Very good advice that needs repeated, a lot. 👍🙂
A big thumbs up for Miller Tires. I have a 22 yr old Kubota B1700 and needed front tires. No one could get me a set of tires for this tractor. I tried 2 Kubota dealers, Farm & Fleet, and a number of local tire stores. No one had or was even interested in finding this discontinued tire size. When I called Miller, they not only knew about the issue that Goodyear caused discontinuing this tire size but had figured out a cost-effective replacement. I was able to get brand new tires and get back to work. Miller is a family-owned business that still believes in friendly customer service. If your looking for tires call Miller first and you won't need to call anywhere else.
My opinion the quickest way to wear out front seals. Mow or do any other work in 4 wheel drive and with the loader on! Leave your tractor in 2 wheel drive unless 4 wheel drive is needed!
I usually drop the bucket and cut with the arms in place. Still , if it’s gnarly I leave it on and skinning slowly along to find any errant stumps that may be encountered.
Deere has always been electric/ electronic heavy. Its one reason I have Kubutsky products. Cave man simple electrical. Never a wiring or component fault, and they are not babied. Every light is damaged on every one of mine. I replace them with cheap of the shelf stuff. Ugly but cheap and convenient to replace. Seats lasted 10 years. Not bad. All my axle and spindle seals in front have seeped since early on. I just fill it anually. Hood dents and grill damage are a given working in timber. Your vids are very informative and well made. Really appreciate your good work.
Appreciate a comment like yours from real world use. Tractors are tools, made to be used. And you accept the good with the bad, as nothing is perfect. Appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment and for watching!
The other reason the front tire wares out is because the front wheels go around more than the back ones do because the smaller tires rotate faster and more times than the rear ones do.
The front axle can be very expensive. Mine on my Kubota suddenly began leaking so I stopped the work I was doing and took the tractor in for repairs. Had to replace most of the gears, bearings, etc on one side of the axle. It was more than $6000. The tractor has been a rental before I bought it and the front end had not been serviced properly.
I own a 2010 3038E, the only issues in 10.5 years is the front axle, 6 seals have failed, 4 axis seal, 2 output shaft seals, indoor stored machine, I don't run in 4x4 un less plowing, just installed the new vented dipstick plug, pray this works.
Great video, yes if you use it sooner or later you have to fix things. I have a sub-compact New Holland and yes I had a front seal go. Mine was covered under warranty but from what I have read this is very common on the sub-compacts no matter the brand. I have done 140 hours on mine so far but at least 100 have been loader operations moving dirt and rocks. I am probably a little guilty of some extra heavy loads on it, which is really easy to overload these smaller tractors. I know my NH will grab and pick up more than it should, I have definitely gotten better about watching my loads. My saying now "Just because it can pick it up doesn't mean I should". If any of you have your rear end off the ground or bouncing a little, you are guilty as well. Thank you and please keep up the Great videos I really enjoy them.
My 1025r had 3 hours on it when the flywheel disintegrated. Got it back in 2 weeks and within 30 minutes the park brake cable came unattached with the breaks on. JD sent out a tech and had it working in less than an hour. Since then I have put 45 hours on it and it runs like a champ.
Thanks Courtney! How about those nimrods that phycks stuff that ain't broke? Usually found that when you ask a customer what they did last, it will direct you to the problem.
Beware the sticks and branches in the woods when pulling logs etc . Chains on tires grab sticks and sometimes go in-between the hood and frame and go for the rad or engine . $$$$$ .
If you look up the size of the spanner tool and can get one, the front axle seals are fairly straight forward on the JD. Definitely not for the novice mechanic, but if a guy has the time and place to work on it, one can save humdreds of $$. Thank you so much for the vids! Keep 'em coming!! (JD Compact 2520 - 550 hours)
My Massey 1736 has them welded on the outside. After bush jog rip off incidents I chopped it off with a whiz wheel and welded them on inside. If you hog fields near trees you just gotta . Cracked seats , try filling with SHOE GOO. Not pretty but it bonds like crazy and keeps water out.
It’s nice to hear the different types of workers, my 3320 has been good, I bent the bucket in the beginning but it wasn’t too bad, never have had the loader off and try and change the oils every two hundred hours,
We just paid $1100 for front axle seals on a Bx2230. If I had the right tools I would definitely have done it myself. A few work hours later I got to replace a piston seal for the bucket.
I traded in my 2016 L2501 mt tractor a couple months ago! I bought it new and only had 125 hrs on it. Traded it in for many reasons but what got me started was the engine made an abnormal rattle while warming up….didn’t do it cold nor fully warmed up! In my experience in the automotive world it sounded like a hard piston slap. Probably a tolerance issue between the cylinder wall and piston skirt. The service tech at my kubota dealer even heard it! Said it was odd and they haven’t had any of these engines apart in the last 10 years for premature problems! It was under warrantee still but according to kubota , in order to warrantee anything it had to be a failure! In reality the engine could go on that way for years and years without an issue! …….Along with the piston slap, and my need for more HP and a HST ….I went with the L3902 HST….with PS this time also…😅 I’m still happy with kubota and my issue was probably rare and the average person probably wouldn’t hear the noise because it is a diesel! In general the 39 hp is quieter than the 25 hp model…
How about blowing snow after that 20" dump and about halfway, your 50 year old radiator finally decides that it needs to give your tractor a steam bath. As if that isn't bad enough. Then you need to replace a radiator during February, in New England with storms scheduled for the next week. OH PLEASE UPS - Deliver the radiator on Saturday like you are promising!
The more I look at these small tractors, the more I can't help but think this is a market segment ripe for disruption through electrification. Bring automotive grade batteries to these things and for the average owner, that's going to be perfect. 3-5 hours of run time per charge. No messing around with fuel, just leave it plugged it in when you're not using it. Get rid of a swath of maintenance items like oil changes. Eliminate items at high risk of damage like radiators and you'll have a smooth protected undercarrage. Get rid of transmissions; electric motors don't care which direction they turn AND they have way better torque curves than any diesel AND they run nearly silently so you'll be better able to hear what your implement is doing. Batteries are heavy, yet another benefit for this application. For the independent types, you can install your own solar to charge your tractor. Live totally off grid. The big concern is always how long batteries last, but we've got nearly a decade of experience in the automotive world with these cells and they've proven to last at least as long as a gas engine before it needs a rebuild and the latest generations of cells are showing that they could outlast the body of a car more than 2X.
Yeah, I agree. The problem is the tractor/ag industry moves slower than a snail. It'll happen, but about 10-20 years later than it should. There is an electric tractor start-up though, but I think still very early stages.
My FIL busted the ROPS lights off and they were replaced with the metal guards. Needless to say, bigger branches were found and the lights were busted off and the brackets were pretzels...
At 1200 hours had to replace the front axle seal. Now at about 1500 hours the loader bucket cylinders weep occasionally. The factory cylinder grey coating is beginning to wear thin.
Hello , really like your channel , talk about trouble , I bought a new JD 2038R Last spring , I live in upstate NY its been cold the other day when I started it I had the red stop sign come and had no power , went in to check the book it had nothing about just the red stop sign coming but only when it has to regen ,when I went back out I started it again and it was fine no problem , I did stop and ask my JD dealership they didn't really know what it could be , well got home same thing happened again but had a code ECU 12O9.03 went back to dealer they still didn't have a answer again got back to my house started it and it was fine,I just used it yesterday and had no trouble with it , did some research and found out that the code stands for exhaust manifold sensor,the guy that had the same trouble had his dealer fix his they replaced the sensor , the tech told the guy it has to do with the DEF it could happen again , the guy had 75 hours on his mine only has 65 hours , no very happy , love your channel enjoy watching it.
Greasing mower shafts is apparently a waste of time unless you remove the sealed bearing first. There are some good videos on this. I doubt the cutting deck on the tractor is much different to a ride-on.
My low hours jd4200 with 3316 hours as of today that is a 1999 Model year tractor has never had a problem Best thing about these older models is no computer or solenoids
Thanks for the vid, really enjoy your stuff. I used the john deere light guards on my 1025R but i added two extra thru-bolts so the guard is bolted to the rops and not just held on with the light bolts. You could hang off them, they are solid and keeps lights out of my way when using backhoe.
@@flick22601 I appreciate your concern, but the two holes I made are not going to compromise the structural integrity of my ROPS and even if it did, it wouldn’t much matter since i folded it down when I signed the papers at the dealer 3 years ago and have never flipped it up since. If I had, it wouldn’t fit in my barn, or my garage, or under my trees, or basically anywhere other than in the driveway. Your mileage may vary.
Hey man thought I’d give my words of support here. You’re extremely awesome with customers you will contact them as quick as possible and that goes a long way. I definitely plan on supporting you however I can buying light upgrades or whatever the case I’ll definitely do what I can. Much appreciated thank you for the videos!
Have my 1025R for 5+ years now and the only problem I had was a bar under the floor board that connected the forward and reverse pedals to the htdro linkage shaft. Bad weld from factory. Big difference between the new weld and old one. It got passed up in quality control. It happened in the middle of a snow storm. Tractor was useless. Had to tow it back to the tarp garage.
Love your channel, very informative the one thing I would change on my MF 1739E is the seat to something that has a bit more suspension to ease some pain of bouncing around 6-8 hours mowing. Would you have any suggestions on what I could replace the factor seat? Thank you and keep the great videos coming.
Had to replace seat link twice on the rotating seat on my 1025R TLB before Deere sent a beefier one. I had also already replaced the seat springs with the heavier ones from Ken's BOH. Finally, I just tore down the fender fuel tank to reseal the gas gauge to keep water out and replace the fuel line fittings to fix the fuel leak at the bottom of the tank. About 400 hours in and it sleeps inside. Grr! Oh one more thing. I would like to find one of those front axle dipstick relief valves. That may have help with blowing front axle seals. Can't seem to find any though. If you find a source, sell them on your store? I'll buy one. Thanks for sharing!
My worst problem with John Deere is they outdate parts way too early I have 3?late 80’s John Deere and all three have several parts no longer available
I bought a 16-year-old John Deere 5220 tractor with 906 hours. One of the cylinders was leaking and the tach didn't work. (The hour meter did.) Otherwise it's running good. On a cold Texas morning (around 30 degrees) it starts right up. I can see a faint whiff of white smoke that disappears within a second or two.
GREAT HEAR WHAT YOU HAD TO SAY! YOU GOT ME SPOT ON TWO MOST LIKELY TO BREAK LIGHTS WHEELS ON THE DECK ! LET'S DON'T GO THERE I HEARD THAT FROM MY POOR LATE HUSBAND? NOW MY SONS ? I HAVE ALOT OF BIG TREES 🌳AND BIG FENCE LINE? BELIEVE IT OR NOT I HAVE FINALLY LEARNED MY LESSON ? $$ THANK YOU STAY SAFE 👍👏
Already ran over and broke off the handle for one of my spring pins trying to disconnect the drive over mower deck on my slick concrete in the garage. Just got the tractor last week. Idc what anyone tells you DO NOT try this on concrete. It isn’t worth it. Drive it out on the gravel or yard. Even rough concrete or asphalt will probably work
I guess it's just a crap shoot, my '97 JD-770 I bought in '98 has had one bucket cylinder seal go out (I think it's going out again?), the clutch spring just broke last year, those foam seat spring dampeners (?) and I leave the 4wd on almost 24-7 unless I drive on the black top. My smaller property is just too soft and ugly. 900 hrs on it so far. Fingers crossed. Yeah and try finding front 6.00 x 12 tires that Firestone gave up on. Wore them as smooth as a baby's bottom before I found a similar pair last year and the rears have at least 70% tread left. Yes, some of that wear was probably the 4wd. I guess we'll see how my '21 LS MT235he I picked up last winter holds up.
I'm having a difficult time getting the right FEL quick coupler for my JD4502. The snap ring type to secure in bracket. Mine are made my Faster. Ordered wrong and returned. Should would like the part number.
Thanks you the info... One thing that I was very surprised was the high cost for filters on my MF1735M all >$75 apiece. Is this same with all manufacturers? Changed both fuel filters, oil filter and hydrostatic filters total cost for filters only was nearly $400. Seems you can get them from a dealer. Any suggestions?
Lol, I own a 1025R, tree 1 - turn signal 0 = $100 to replace ..... and yes I’m the latter..... my Johnny needs to work, and so the scratches are war wounds tehe
Throttle position sensor failed. That was frustrating. The first thing though, with only a couple hours on the machine, i raised the 3-point hitch with the ROPS down and gave my top link an elbow... oops.
If you put enough duct tape on the lights mounted on the ROPS, they won't come off. LOL Yup broke one of mine off in the first 20 hours I had it. You could do a whole video just on Deere and their lights getting caught.
Thanks for information awesome does someone like heavy hitch make covers for lights I have already replaced one front axle seal on my 3520 with 200 hrs and there’s a revised part number from J D seal and was a job.
Howdy, I just created a new playlist of a bunch of my videos that explain remotes, SCV's, diverter's, etc. Hope this helps. ru-vid.com/group/PLyRjhkX_ZAmaZ35k7lXmOl-icR8ZlvikT
Can you get the backhoe attachment for a 2019?? BX2680?? Is the BX2680 capable to accept the backhoe and if so, what does the backhoe avg cost?? Thank you so much!! Freddy viewing your wonderful channel from Arkansas...
Great video! Love the content. Can you please help me out? You mentioned just replacing the lens for those rops lights. I can Not find them anywhere. Do you have a link or somewhere you know who sells them cheap? I glued mine back together and am afraid to look at them wrong. Thank You
Here's a link to the amber one: www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Amber-Lens-LVU18745.html And here's the red one: www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Red-Lens-LVU18747.html You'll want to verify these are exactly the part you're looking for before buying. Thanks for watching!
A month or so ago u posted a community post on cool custom things ppl have on their tractors. Well now I have a hydraulic top link (side link comes in 3 months) and after market (but oem) 2 rear remotes on my B2601. Lemme know if you wanted to see it.
Agree there, those hydraulic arm alignment shear bolts snapped on my 1025r already when doing some landscaping. Drives you nuts trying to reattach your bucket when the two arms are moving at their own pace.
