The 3 Mopar Drag Racing Suspension Secrets! Let’s Keep It Simple  

That’s awesome buddy! I hope anyone checking these comments will go give you subscribe if they haven’t already!

Thanks for sharing!

@@raystevens1458 thanks Ray! Darren reminded me that he does have slant bars on his. I know my barracuda does.

Yes sir. I understand. I don’t usually use them for anything but holding the car up for sanding the exterior. I will definitely do better 👍🏼

@@JustMoparJoe Before doing headers and exhaust on the GTX last winter, I made wheel cribs out of 2x4’s. They are rock solid and provide almost a foot of extra room under the car. I had around $80 in materials and an afternoon of time into them. It was money well spent IMHO…

@@blackgtx I will probably make some up soon or get some race blocks!

Thanks for sharing! I’m a fan of “if it’s not broken, don’t fix it!”

Absolutely!

That stinks

You’ll definitely love the increased Torque of that engine over the 318 👍🏼

They weren’t doing anything good 😝

It's "physics" NOT MAKE. If it works, it works..

Yes sir. I have some to show on my dad’s old swinger. It never had an issue with traction

Absolutely!

Thanks Ron!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Donald!

Yea sir. I have traditional ladder link bars on my car, but they have two wider points on the rear and use a coil over. Diagonal link to center rear.

Thanks 👍

I understand them totally. I have a Dave Morgan Chassis book. I just don’t understand his weird homemade stuff

Thanks Mitch!

Thanks Ed!

Thanks brother. Plenty more to show on the subject

Try that with the from rubbers and let me know, Jonny! Also 90/10’s are huge help! I’ve picked up .05 in my 60’ before from swapping to 90/10’s over a dead shock.

@@JustMoparJoe Will do Joe, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Thanks brother!

No housing floaters that I could tell. I think that’s why it was so rigid. Thanks T!

Yes sir. Looking forward to him removing the rear bars, and loosening up that converter!

Yes sir. Looking forward to seeing him unhook the bars, and loosen up that converter! Lol

Here’s the generic answer first: I don’t know your full combination etc. Now on to the helpful stuff. The 4.56 gear makes the converter feel tighter than if you ran it with a 3.55 gear. Just like with Mike’s car in the video, a tight converter will give it a lazy launch. It will also not allow the engine to rev as quickly and the weights to fling out as quickly in the distributor. If it’s possible, I would send that converter to Mike Eiben at Top line converter in PA. He can loosen it to that 4,500-4,800 flash range. That will be a total game changer for you!

Thanks!

It’s probably dependent on each car, but cranking them up does take away from the amount of travel available to transfer. Not only that, it changes the amount of pressure on the bar. To raise the car, you have to twist that bar harder, which preloads it. I forgot to mention that Darren has the slant 6 torsion bars. They actually are a smaller diameter and have a different spring rate than the heavy bars. The trade off is that they wouldn’t handle as well on the highway.

😂 that’s the funniest thing I’ve heard in a while!

I think his definitely needs some dialing in still.

You’re gonna love it! The billet drum is nice, but I only got one this past year. As for launches, if you’re using slicks, I usually burnout starting in 1st and immediately shift to second while the tires are spinning. Hold that rpm around 5,000 until you know they’re hot, rolling out from there, quickly release the throttle. To stage, try it first off idle. It allows the converter to have a harder flash and transfer quicker(or break the tires loose). From there, go up about 500 rpm: 1,500, 2,000, 2,500. It almost never launches faster trying to leave at the highest rpm possible, with a footbrake. Hopefully that helps!

Some cars squat, and some cars separate. The super stock springs make the whole car rise and plant the rear tires.

I’m interested to see that as well! I think those are Chevy parts 😝

@@JustMoparJoe yeah, expanding my horizons. Chevy Parts are cheaper.

Come on down!

Thanks buddy. Will do,

@@JustMoparJoe I remember steeet racing in the 70s and I live in Oshawa can a lot of gm guys used them on chevys I’d say prob sort of poor man’s 4 link or you know what I mean they were prob quite expensive if I think about it late 60s early 70s

🍟

Come on back Friday!

@@russellmiller6770 I’ve heard of people drilling extra holes in their stock plates before. But I belive the diameters are the same. I haven’t ever swapped a magnum plate on to an LA.

That’s what I wondered. Adding the sliders at the springs, or just removing them totally.

I’ve heard of that one! Lol

Sounds great! I like the good old stuff!

Thanks for sharing your ride with me! Let me know how it progresses!

@@JustMoparJoe will do. Going Saturday to centerville

Absolutely! I more even keel with my rides 😂

I’ll definitely do better! Thank you

I’ve never used them. I have only heard and read the stores of guys breaking records with them, etc. Are they a necessary upgrade over what’s on this car? Not for any of my power levels. I do think they’re hard to beat once they are tuned and are working properly. I’m not sure of the threshold when they become a mandatory upgrade over the stuff I showed here. I’m sure guys have changed over to them from and the older style suspension and really picked up 60’ times. (Hopefully that wasn’t too much of a politician’s answer) 😂

@@JustMoparJoe honesty is the best policy. I also heard good things about them and since i am starting from scratch and need something i think i will buy them.

3,2,1

Thanks brother

Thanks brother

@@JustMoparJoe got a question for you what does your car work out to in quarter mile I’m not much good with numbers I say high 10 or mid

@@JeffLeblanc-xb7qe my best time so far in good weather was 6.35 in the 1/8th. I think it’s closer to 10.0 in the 1/4

@@JustMoparJoe that’s really good my buddy used to run a 440 with all Indy stuff like the best he could get and once he got to 1040s it started getting harder and harder to gain just a little time now he runs KEITH BLACK HEMIS ALUMINIM BLOCK MOTORS I’m not sure of the cubic in but over a thousand horse both motors in a 69 barracuda goes 8s and he has a few more hemi cars 64 Belvedere and a 70 challenger with a cast street hemi he’s a very good Mopar mechanic transmission s and motors but he hardly races much anymore but he usually goes down to the states to big events so I’d say you are doing very well for how old you are he’s been doing this all his life and he’s 72 so I’d be proud if I were you that’s why I follow your channel cause you are a very gifted young man and your very intelligent I only give credit wen due and everything you do is above and beyond I’ve been around Mopar since 16 and if I only new a quarter of what u know that’s why education is important your always doing numbers and I BELIVE wen building stroker motors it’s to your advantage sorry for the big comments but I would get work of off you in a minute but would be a little ways from Toronto lol Mopower to you I hope the coupe your brother owns comes soon it will be a awesome ride

Yes sir. He’s got to loosen up the converter as well

Yes sir. I usually only use them for body work

🍕 🎉!

That would definitely make a difference! But the stock style stuff is a simple setup that’s fairly inexpensive. The bars need to hit the iron pile.

That's a Baramino

Good one!

They may be good scrap candidates 😂

@@JustMoparJoe 😆😆

Simple joys!

Always!

It may be because of tire fitment issues. I like more of a leveled car myself.

I do love my ladder bars and coil overs.

For sure

That’s a torker 2 intake. I’m not sure if he runs an air cleaner

@@JustMoparJoe Thanks!

Yes sir, removed it so Joe wouldn't have to during the paint and body restoration. It's getting a QA1 coil over front suspension once Joe is done with it.

@@blakesmusclecar it's going to be a really nice ride. Congrats 👏

@@stevenmcinnis8105 - Thank You!