@@2bfrankg nah, i genuinely enjoy his content and it’s not unknown that his uploads are kinda sporadic. RU-vid isn’t his full time job so for him it’s a hobby that he enjoys outside of working on Miata’s.
Greg i pulled my motor at 17 and rebuilt the motor and transmission. It was a lot of work (and failure), but in the end i did it, thanks to your videos and many others. Today will be my first drive back in it. I love watching your videos, yiu helped me understand this car a lot more and im very grateful. Thank you greg the miata dad ❤️
I love how methodical and scientific you are. I work in open source software and you're the guy doing an "open source" turbo Miata build. All the success and failure on display. This is the stuff nobody else shows so they can charge hundreds of dollars for a morning of dyno tuning someone else's car for $$$.
I don’t even have a miata anymore but I still love your content man! I love hearing the technical breakdowns of this stuff and it is still cross applicable to other platforms, but few explain it as clearly as you.
You could go to water or water methanol injection for limiting peak pressure aswell...(rising the thermal capacity of your gas whilst maintaining good timing) if you have too little timing your exhaust temperature will rise... be aware of your turbo heat tolerances! (Honestly not sure if you are running a exhaust temperature sensor on your car tbh)
Love the tuning videos Craig! Just installed my MS3 last month and I’m in the middle of installing my turbo so I’m trying to learn as much as I can about boost tuning or just tuning in general. I learn so much from your videos! 🤘
theres a few people who have done oversized head studs (12mm or 1/2") with larger washers to increase clamping force on the head. I have been considering it since my head lifts as well on occasion. I've also seen various custom head gasket setups, full copper, fire ring, etc.
Handy tip for shielded wiring sensors (knock in this case, VR or Hall sensors also good to shield). Find some microphone cable from a music shop. Nicely shielded and cable is made tough.
Sounds like you need a haltech ;) Another benefit of coolant pressure sensor is to measure if coolant pressure goes too low, aka coolant leak. I nearly blew and engine after the heater tap hose broke off due to the plastic deteriorating and of course the coolant temp sensor will not pick up an engine overheat until much later if there is no coolant in the engine :/
I’ve been particularly interested in this video arriving. My own BP had similar symptoms at 400hp and 20psi. 3 headgaskets swapped, each time seeing different machine shops and each time the machine shops were baffled since the head pressure tested well and was planed flat. I eventually concluded there must be a hairline crack in the block or something and swapped another motor in and turned the boost down. I was hoping this can video would give the final answer to my own mystery… alas… we appear to both still be at a loss. 😅 It’s got to be cylinder pressure from our particular builds though. I just don’t know why my motor couldn’t seem to maintain it when others apparently could. Although my motor ran for 20k miles fine before the 3 head gaskets (which were 15miles each before symptoms arose). 🤷🏼♂️
hey just wanted to let you know thats not how how you should wire the knock sensor. the shield and sensor ground to join together at the ecu side. the shield goes around both wires wires. and on the sensor side the shield doesn't connect to anything. only the ground signal goes to the knock sensor. seems a bit strage but thats how ground shield should work.
4 cylinder ppl here in PR are using solid cooper head gaskets with lots of gray silicone im talking of 10 to 8 seconds street and drag cars…dont detune the setup you just need less fancier parts and true race hardware💪🏁🔺🔻
Just fyi. Haltech elite 1500 can do boost by rpm X gear table. It also has awesome protection strategies for your engine. I would also recommend a exhaust pressure sensor. You might have way too much back pressure and might need a bigger rear housing for your turbo. To make your system more efficient.
@@TheCarPassionChannel please keep us updated on your progress. i'm planing to go turbo on my NB1 (bp4w) but goal will be no more than 300whp. getting started on the bottom end upgrades soon. hopefully i will keep my 6speed alive at that power level. i did get a sprung clutch to make its life easier. i also want the best response i can get as its a circuit car but also dont want to be blowing gaskets (ever). plan is 10:1 84mm pistons on 50/50 e85 / petrol blend. and a turbo big enough for 350 but tunned to 300whp. maybe i can have the extra 50hp on a steering wheel button for use now and then 🤣
I've been subbed for years but don't watch every video because every time you're on my feed your shit's broken again. Come a long way since floor transmission installing and yet no where at the same time. Waiting on the bulletproof 500hp Miata and wishing you success believe it or not lol
Excellent content as usual, I don't even have a Miata anymore or even a turbo car yet I always watch your videos because of the quality of information. Great work!
I learn something new every video. Especially appreciate the dive into tunerstudio, you explained some things I’ve been curious about for a while. Thanks!
You sir made my night with this video. Cleared up a bunch of pressure sensor questions and helped wrap my noodle brain around knock sensors. Thanks Greg!!!
You did a really excellent presentation on knock sensor setup. I also did not realize you could configure boost by gear ramps with those tables. I'll have to try that out. The method I use to dial the knock threshold percentage is, take a log of "knock-in" in say second gear, and gradually increase RPM's and load all the way to redline. Take those values and plug them into the table for knock threshold. In my mind, this method gives you an accurate level of natural engine noise at any given RPM. One dialed, any knock-in levels 6-10% above this curve could be considered as real knock.
I've done so many dating back to 2015, but the videos just follow the progression of the car really. I have videos for the majority of maintenance/common jobs one would need to do already. But I understand there is only a small amount of people who relate to this type of video
Appreciate the knock setup! I am happy to see you're looking at peak cyl pressures. Now I need to get my tune setup for knock, for some reason last time I looked (ms3pro) I didnt see the bandpass and time (btdc/atdc), which is likely why my stuff never worked right (🤣)
I think Miata OE knock sensor is a resonant sensor so only outputs a voltage signal for a set OE frequency. a large voltage jump from a known baseline could be knock. But it’s prone to error. Non resonant “wideband” style sensor will allow you to test against frequency and set a suitable window for your engine. Then set suitable thresholds.
Hello bro, I just want to say thank you for all the effort that you put on the video by sharing with detail what you did on your project, all that information is helping me a lot to know that to do with a project that I want to start now, thanks for everything bro
Great timing Greg, I've been working on getting knock control working on my NA6 vvt forged motor with 6258. Just an FYI the knock window start settings are in BTDC not ATDC so you want +6 not -6, with these settings you are actually measuring 6 atdc to 32 atdc.
Awesome! i want to get into EGT tuning aswell in my Speeduino guide as i have also done a guide on ignition timing tuning, but in my opinion EGT is also very important! though hard to show because you cannot implement it into speeduin. Thouh hopefully have more means for investment and being able to show different ecus when the channel grows lol
Great video and perfect timing. I'm about to set up the knock sensor on a 323GTX using an MS Evo pro. This video just took out a ton of guess work for me.
There’s a 700+whp white NB miata supported by UMS tuning here in AZ. It’s a turbo/nitrous drag car, I believe the block is filled but I’m not that knowledgeable about it. I know it runs 8sec 1/4 mile times
Have you considered moving over to Link or something else that might have more features as far as number of tables and blending between them. Also with a large amount of safety protections?
You should talk with Pat. You know that my car runs 11's all day long for years. Come on out, money races July 4th and 5th, with Wally's on the 5th. I have also lifted my head without blowing the gasket before. My new motor was machined on better machines and I haven't seen evidence of it yet. Just ARP high boost studs and Mazda gasket.
Another great post and love the nerding out on Megasquirt and Tunerstudio stuff! Question, for boost by gear, how does MS "know" what gear the car is in?
@@therobertshouse It's a calculation based on comparing engine RPM to driveshaft RPM (or rear wheel speed depending on where your sensor is), and you input the gear ratios into Tuner Studio. So it knows if driveshaft RPM is 3000, and engine RPM is 3000, it's the 1.000:1 gear which is 5th in mine
There's 2 Facebook groups I'm in that contain MS developers, designers, originators and warlocks that you could possibly get assistance from on these subjects.
Can you please make a video showing how you did your wiring after installing the skunk2 manifold? Yours looks super clean. Im assuming you routed all the wiring under the manifold?
Haha it is very NOT clean 😆 It's mostly all near the firewall area, some parts of the engine bay are really clean because of how much stuff is deleted though
I got lost after 5:56 when your dog walked in. Administer pats from a fellow Graeg plz. Maybe try a different fuel, I'm running 27:1 compression @ 22psi on my 3.0L 4cyl. 40 octane is what I run, but I don't quite get the high numbers you do.
Yeah for sure, I have a couple 4W heads and I need to build one on the side and just swap it in next time I have the head off. At this power level I know I'm probably at the limit of what stock cams really want to do. Problem is I'm also at the limit of the turbo... so I would like to pair the 4W head with a little more cam, and a little more turbo, and keep the same power level. Just scared I'm going to spend $3K to have the same power and less response, but in the end if reliability is up, then that's good. I can always set up kill mode with an extra 50-100whp on that setup and use it sparingly.
@@TheCarPassionChannel you will lose a little down low, but your shift points will move up in the rpm a little, so you will always be in the boost. In a slow corner you will have to downshift would be the biggest drawback. I think it would be cool if you went to a road course and got a time, then did some modification and went back.
@@TheCarPassionChannel another thought I just had is that you would still make the same power on your current turbo at a lower boost pressure. This would drop you a little lower on the compressor map possibly putting the turbo into a more efficient island. Less heat, more power.
@@andrewf8486 More efficient power, but less overall power. I ran this thing at every boost level along the way from 10 to 26 and it did not make less power at more boost at any point, which is why I don't want to turn it down 😂
@@andrewf8486 Regarding shifting the powerband up, there are 2 limitations that stop me from trying to force the BP to act like a big turbo Honda - yes the powerband will be the same size, but I don't want to rev the engine to the moon to get power when I can already make good power int he stock rev range. Revs wear out all engines faster, regardless of build. And also, the turbo will still come on slower at a given RPM (transient response). In a straight line, yeah big cams and big turbo all the way.
So hypothetically, could you benefit from the boost ramping in 2nd and 3rd gear by setting a slightly higher boost level >5k rpm? Im sure the benefits would be extremely little, but if you're already min-maxing this setup, maybe there's a tiny bit more to gain there?
Doesn't the cooling system naturally hit max pressure anyway, as it heats up and some of the water boils? My understanding was that the overflow tank always fills up a little bit while the engine is hot, and then lets that coolant back in once the engine cools down.
How is the basic PID control serving you? What's the amount of oscillation in target vs actual pressure that you get? P.S. TPS going to 60% while 5V spliced together with CPS is either voltage drop on your 5V line (probably damaged wiring), or you picked the signal and not 5V line from TPS.
Or turbo to supercharger. Or a turbo in the exhaust that builds boost so you can get quicker. I saw a vid, so if you need it, I can look for that link! 🎉
Miata turbskie had a 1.8 with 997hp in march 2021 Also the knock sensor was wired like this? Coppershielding : normal ground Sensor ground : sensor ground on ecu Signal : analog input That's what it should be right? Now the interference picked up by the copper wire gets dumped in the sensor ground
Do you think these tuning solutions are going to be as reliable as addressing the hardware? Or do you think it’s just acting as a bandaid for an overall bigger issue? I wanna hear your thoughts before I decide to pull the motor, as I’m dealing with something similar myself. 😭
Great video! Question though, isn't the cooling system always going to reach the radiator cap pressure under normal operation? Wouldn't that trigger your ECU into limp mode all of the time? Maybe set the trigger pressure to just above the cap pressure?
No, the reason for the cap rating is so that if too much pressure builds in the system, it pushes coolant into the overflow tank. Under normal conditions it should not do this (I've seen a max of about 12psi so far during normal driving and some pulls). If I life the head again (hopefully not) I will be able to see how high the pressure goes, maybe it's well above the cap rating like 20-25psi, in that case I might set the failsafe up at a higher pressure.
On the knock sensor, doesn't it not make sense to only listen for knock between -6 to 26, as every cylinder will be firing or knocking at a different crank angle based on firing order. Crank angle is only based on cyl 1 no?
I'm planning on making around 300hp with my na6 and was also planning on sending it to Napp Autosports. Would you think that will be possible for a daily? And would 2 step and flat foot shifting effect reliably?
