i,m glad that i came to a similar conclusion about sharpening knives in the wild. By using the wet and dry abrasive sheets of paper used for metal polishing and paint preparation on car bodies etc, But with the exception that i use convex edged knives instead of a scandi ground edged knife , i also use a broad leather strop glued onto a wooden board as a backing for the wet and dry abrasive grit paper to resharpen my knife so the leather strop forms a shallow depression to abrade the existing curved convex edge to make a very sharp resilient cutting edge But let me emphasize at no point do i ever apply excessive pressure on the cutting edge, as it will actually end up blunting my knife by forming a rounded edge, the action i use is a light rapid back and forth movement with very light pressure , then going to a finer grade abrasive paper, and finally i strop the edge on the leather belt with only a green abrasive polishing compound on the leather surface to polish the edge to a very sharp edge by dragging the blade backwards over the leather belt mainly the abrasive paper is cheap very effective and practical and light weight to carry as well although i have to carry a wooden backed leather strop for my method and a polishing compound as well. Many thanks for sharing your methods and technique, i like your beautiful thick bladed knife too, it looks extremely sharp, good luck to you and thanks for telling me your knowledge and experiences with knife sharpening
Sounds like you have a perfect method going. Thanks very much for sharing. I'm going to pin this so that those who have blade edges which are not flat can learn from your method.
As a 53 YO I have sharpened knives for many years and have been using this technique for most of my working life as I have wet and dry paper readily available wherever I work. It's so easy and quick and you don't need heaps of gizmo's just a block... good video and advice! 🤘🤠
My dad was a carpenter/cabinet maker and farmer/rancher. He used the same technique to sharpen his knives and tools with worn, fine grit sandpaper and a wood block. His castrating blade was truly amazingly sharp! He also made it a point to make sure you slow down, take your time, and do it right. Great video, I'm glad I found your channel.
As a professional sharpener there's really nothing wrong with this method, as long as it's not a high carbide steel in that case you should use diamond stones, but great job it looks like you have gotten good at this method I would have went at it differently even with b the same tools but you have your system down and I applaud 👏
I suspect you might also find that with some of the “super steels”, those lower-end oxide papers either take a LONG time to pull the edge back, or simply don’t do it at all. In which case you’ll need to (as Mr. Neeves recommends to stop carbide tear out) go to a diamond surface or a ceramic surface. But for high carbon tool steels, absolutely; this will work all day long. In fact, if you watch any of Jacklore Knives’ videos, this is exactly what he does for his knives. He’s in a shop, so he puts the knife in a vise and runs the paper over the bevel, but functionally, it is exactly this. Just be careful to not run the tip too hard off the block or you’ll round the tip over. Also, you have a very light touch on your strop there, but if you ever go with compound, and use more pressure, you want a supported strop or you will convex the edge. That’s why barber razor strops are unsupported like your belt there. Of course you can use wood, and even cardboard in a pinch to strop off the burr. Just keep that light touch.
I am not a knife collector so I don't have many to sharpen but I would like to learn to sharpen my knives properly which I learned from this video but also want to use the proper materials. I have the Becker BK2, Civivi Elementum in S35VN steel, Carbon Morakniv basic, Carbon Opinel #8, Buck 110, and carbon Leatherman Signal...oh and Victorinox Swiss Champ. What sharpening materials should I use?
Thanks for the video. My father always shaved with a straight razor. I remember the strop hanging in the bathroom while growing up. Also an old outdoors man here...made plenty coffees that way. Here's a little trick. Once you take the coffee of the heat put a few drops of cold water in the pan and the grounds will settle to the bottom immediately.Stay well and bless you!
Yeppers. And or a couple egg shell's just a couple little pieces. Coffee ground go straight to bottom. Even if you are not going to have eggs on your trip just save some take with you 😉.
@fyoung64 Yup, the traditonal Cowboy Coffee method -I was going to say the same thing about adding cold water but you beat me to it... The science of how/why this works is that the heat convection takes the cold water, along with any loose coffee grounds floating on the surface, to the bottom of the pot, allowing you to pour grounds-free coffee from the top 😁👍
Balistol is a German gun oil who is more than a hundred years old and still one of the best. Great on skin and to clean and disinfect wounds bites etc. So it was very god to use in the trenches. great on wood and leather to and on guns of coarse, it also nutralizes harmfull acids. It's just fantasic, really makes metal slide against each other with extremly little frictioon.
I only spent almost 51 years trying to shave sharpen my knives. I only have 87 plus all my commercial kitchen knives and I've never been able to razor sharpen any of them. I have never heard of the sand paper methothod. But I get it and will try it! Once I get one done I'll know I'm on my way to mastering the half a century long skill I did not possess until I found you. Thank you. I know If I fail It's because I failed! Not because of your instruction. Thank you again. I subbed and will let you know my success rate.
Thank you for watching, and thank you for sharing. I believe you will have great success with this method. Yes, please let me know your results. Thank you so much. -William
After you do this nail staple or glue a piece of stretched out leather on a similar piece of wood. Then rub some polishing compound into the leather and do this same thing but with the leather. You will get a shaving sharp edge.
I just came across your knife sharpening video. I'm a wood carver and have struggled with keeping my knives sharp, attempting many methods. But yours is simple and effective! Thank you, I highly recommend your method. Kitchen, sportsman, carving, pocket knives; I'm able to finally keep them all razor sharp. Thanks for sharing!
Been using this method for 30+ years! I am a hunter and wanted a way to sharpen my knives when processing big game deep in the country! It needed to space saving, low weight, easy to use that got the edge sharp! Works well on all accounts! One important thing…good steel is an absolute must if you want the edge to stay sharp as long as possible! Cheap steel won’t hold up! Cheers!
Thank you! I been pushing instead of pulling all these years and in 5 minutes I got my 2 favorite knives 3 times sharper than they have ever been. I used my Diamond Work Sharp stone kit but I followed your directions and not theirs !!
While at Desert Shield/Desert Storm, I carried Buck, Gerber and Schrade folding knives all at one time on my belt. My First Sergeant used to come in the office while I was working and grab one knife at a time, sharpen it and come in with a bare spot on his arm. I had no idea what he was using to sharpen them with, but they were very sharp when he was done. I still have those knives. Great video, thank you!!!
Good stuff, I've used the same idea for a few years now. For blades with the Tracker design I round one of the block edges. That way the block fits the quarter round and maintains the edge.
I am from Sweden and the scandi grind comes from scandinavia(sweden, norway, finland, dennmark, iceland) and the most common angle is about 11 degrees on each side. A total of 22. But it depends on how you use your knife the most. You can use a total angle between 15-25 degrees, to make it more durable or more sharp. In Sweden and Norway, the edge usually is a little more obtuse and in Finland they use a little lower angle. One thing you should have in mind is, that it was developed for the knives with the metal, the heat treatement and the use that is common among scandinavians, but it usually works fine on most knifes, with a few exceptions. I think your instruction is very, very good sir. But you must excuse my semi bad english, I am Swedish you know. 😃
I use that same method but I use a soft pad to make my knives have a convex edge. I learned about using sandpaper from my grandfather he was a machinist. Very good information.
Newcomer to the channel and have been working down the list of videos. This is the first one you’ve spoken in. Your great narration voice adds a lot to the experience.
Love this method, first learned of it from Mors Kochanski. He'd give you a piece of plywood ripped down to 2" wide x the length of the sandpaper squares which I can't recall right now. Then you'd use 2 sided carpet tape to secure the sandpaper to the board and you'd do both sides, one with 600 and one with 800 grit. I still use this method more than any other. Thanks for sharing this!
The results speak for themselves! It seems that everyone from hobbyist to professional sharpeners have different preferences as to their tools and methods. I love seeing all different takes that people have on this big blurry subject. Thanks for the video!
I agree with you! There is no "wrong" way if the result is a shaving blade. There ARE terrible ways to sharpen knives or actually- they never learn to sharpen/maintain the particular steel of the knife/tool. I got quite a few nice knives because they could not "hold an edge" when all it took is 5 min to keep an edge correctly. Again, great point my friend!!
I used to sharpen knives as a kid to earn spending money. I like your style with how you're holding the knife and moving the stone instead. Great explanations on what and how you're doing your honing.
Thank you. I was using sandpaper which I learned from another video but I was pushing the blade against the sandpaper instead of away from it. And finally stropping with a leather belt without compound is an excellent tip.
What I really like about this method is the ability to visualise the angle of the blade, something that you can’t do when overlooking a flat working surface..Thanks for a valuable video.
When you become comfortable with "visualizing" the angle, try to fix your mind on "feeling" that same angle while using this procedure. There is a "sweet spot" on the blade's edge where, if you have maintained a fairly flat surface on the steel, you will be able to feel the "sweet spot" as a totally smooth almost glassy surface. It is a subtle thing and not everyone can reach that level of discerning where that spot is located. It is dependent on the level of sharpness you have acquired during the process. But, if all is done with a focus on the feel of the blade as your stone or sandpaper is applied to the surface, you will finally come to realize that spot and become more discreet in finding it as the grits grow finer and finer. Good luck.
Thanks for the lesson. At first I tried these methods and only made my knives more dull. I thought I ruined my knives. I kept trying and trying and was finally able to get a decent edge on my blades. It definitely takes practice and trial and error but the results are well worth it.
It's funny but I came to the same conclusion and I use the same method. Being an experimental physicist by training, I try and observe what works and what doesn't with a little bit of analytical thinking thrown in and low and behold I arrived INDEPENDENTLY at the same conclusion that you gained from practical experience. I actually took advantage in my search fro a good way to sharpen my knives from a previous professional experience in polishing crystals for use as scintillation detectors and the stuff I read about techniques for polishing other optical lenses to a very high degree of smoothness. It's very instructive and much fun.
Ive sharpened proffesionally for years . Love this video showing different methods. Ive even used the window on my pickup to touch up a blade. Great video sir.
I knew an old whittler who would sharpen his knives with sand paper like that, some of the blades were half inch long and very thin. So this works for just about any knife. Great video, thankyou for posting.
I sometimes take a ceramic coffee cup, turn it upside down and use the unglazed edge as a sharpening method. I have used many methods to sharpen knives also.
I like your knife sharpening method. I'm ordering a pack of different grit off Amazon today. $5.99 cant beat that. 😅 As for the wood block I'm going to find a piece around construction sites. Its free. My Kershaw clash an older one needs a razors edge.
Great explanation of the excellent & cheap sharpening methods I was shown by Mors Kochanski circa 1982. I may have missed any reference you made to the source of your “discovery” but in bushcraft I am comfortable believing there’s not much new under the sun 😉 just rediscovered & reapplied.
I would agree with your last statement. I didn't get the idea from Mors, but it makes complete sense that he would use such an easy and effective method. I discovered it through thought processes of my own while contemplating what we are actually doing while sharpening knives, knowing that many knife manufacturers use a belt sander to get the original "factory" edge. It just makes sense. Thanks for the info about Mors Kochanski; one of the founding fathers of Bushcraft. That's the icing on the cake for me. 🙏🙏
New subscriber to your channel. I've been sharpening knives for 60 years, since l was first taught at 11yo. This is the exact same method l've been using for the last 22 years, on my knives, machetes and axes. I mainly use various grits of sharpening stones, initially on my axes, then l finish off with various grits of sandpaper. (Wet/Dry)
Good Information. I use multiple methods of sharpening/honing depending on the tasks that the blade will be used for. I am a sailor at heart and most of my large belt sheathed knives have a utility edge (Micro steak knife edge) as opposed to my smaller pocket or camp knives with a razor edge. Razor edges are "Cool" and have a purpose but are next to useless when cutting thru dense rope (Poly is the worst) and are pointless for chopping and splitting. A coarse utility edge can still filet but has the micro teeth to rip thru dense material. A quick one/two leather strop for the utility and a detailed strop/hone for the razor edge. I prefer leather sheaths that are well seasoned biannually (cleaned, warmed, saturated with veg oil, left to cool and then wiped dry). This generally keeps my blades and edges corrosion free. Just subscribed. Looking forward to seeing more.
You've got to try a Spyderco with fully serrated blade, I recommend the Delica with stainless handles. I cut 1½" braided nylon in a single swipe with that blade. Nice heft to it with the stainless as well...
Great video! Simple is always best,. I've watched people absolutely destroy expensive knives on belt sanders,. I think they were trying to reheat treat the steel! Never heat a bade,, that was done at the factory... Remember kids, unless the blade has nicks or a rough uneven edge we are just "polishing" the edge that is already there. ~God bless.
I have to admit at the beginning I thought How am I going to watch a 30 min video on sharpening a knife! But I did and I'm glad I did so! great method, cheers
William I thought of this but in a vice with stones, but this is better. Now I can use my blades and have confidence to keep them sharp and maintained. I am grateful and thank you
That’s how my Dad used to sharpen knives! Wow…you brought back a memory…I lost Dad in 2012. I saw on a different channel where a women used a nail file. It works too….
I cut a length of wood 8" long 2" wide and about 10 mil thick, one end has a piece of leather glued to it, rough side up, and the other end I wrap fine grit paper round, this served me extremely well over the year's on my old Jacklore as a sharpener/honer when in the field, but now I take a fine file because the knife I now use blunts quite quickly. This video is a good tutorial.
I am a few years older than you, and I like to listen to a mature man explain something like this, when it is evident that he knows what he is talking about. I sharpen knives also, and use many different tools. I like your fine grit sand paper method. I like using crock sticks or a steel to touch up the edge.
what you have me learned (taught me) that is pure science really a craftsman I thank you very much because I will also teach my children this and refer to you I thank you for this knowledge of craftsmanship because of Andre Kuyckx 62 years young and from Hasselt Belgium.. all glory to you sir.
when i was a bookbinder i used to sharpen my pairing knife with the wet and dry and strop on the leather. use to glue the paper to one side of a piece of millboard and the leather to the other side
I noticed that most of the time you did Not go to the tip as you suggested but this is still a great method to be able to have the means to sharpen your knife in the woods, And eaiser to keep up with the strokes when you can concentrate on what you are doing.
Could be. You know it's scientifically proven that when something is observed, it changes. 😁 So, maybe I didn't do as well as I could have. But thank you for watching and for the good feedback. -TWP
This is an improved method, refined, from what I was taught 50 years ago by an outdoorsman neighbor. He just used #220 black wet/dry automobile sanding paper. Worked quickly but not super sharp, although okay for many purposes. Your handheld wood block method is also much better. He and just used a wood table top and big sheet of paper.
I found your video most informative: When I first left school I became a butcher, but I never really believed my bosses properly taught the best technique for sharpening. Like you I've tried so many sharpening tools that claim superiority over the others, so that's obviously a marketing trick. I'll definitely try your method.
Yep-this is what I’ve naturally gravitated towards-A 1/4” thick Scandi-ground razor-sharp EDC. I started out buying one of those dual-sided sharpening stones that comes with a little wooden base-holder and just carrying the stone around (usually one side is around 500/800 and the other around 3000 or so).
Just a extra note to say, I’m around 72 yo and have simply just followed the gentlemen/woodsmen around me in my life (like the old philosopher here, with raw grounds in the pot 😄 and my half-century-old enamel camp cup) who have this kind of bush experience-mainly up here in the Northwest. When my EDC bag is getting too full of junk, I end up just leaving a lot of the stuff I don’t use at home. So, if i look in the bottom of my bag right now, for knife-sharpening, I have my dual-sided stone, a couple of different grits of emory cloth (oil-wet-dry sandpaper) a little wood block, and a little bottle of Olive-oil that I also use for frying my meat and eggs. The olive oil is good-works on protecting the blades and is also totally non-toxic. 🙂 OK let’s go camping!
I take a sharp blade and cut a slot in the wood block to anchor the sandpaper. It helps to keep the paper as tight and flat as possible. Beautiful knives you have there.
I bought what is called a contractors pack of sheets of sandpaper at Walmart from a company called "Fandeli" on 3-25-23 after watching this video. It's called "Waterproof Professional Sandpaper" 36 sheets ranging from 120 grit through 2500 grit, about three sheets per grit. The pack was only $9.00 bucks. I've sharpened three knives so far and the papers have very little wear, so for $9.00 bucks I'll have sandpaper for a long time. I've never been good at sharpening but this method friggin works! Just tilt the blade until the edge is flat against the paper and hold the blade motionless while moving the wood block. I got three knives shaving sharp in 30 minutes.
@@thewildernessphilosopher - I'd like to shake your hand and buy you a beer. Best video I've ever watched for useful and practical information. Stay Well!
It is really that simple. I use a large single ceramic rod, also good. Many methods, but what I like about sandpaper and a block is always having fresh cutting surface.
Brilliant Video in so many ways! - Makes me wanna Load up my Back Pack and head off to the local Riverside and just sit there trying this out whilst chilling out - watching the world go by! Thanks x x x
From one old Woodsman to another thanks for the reminder to get out in those wild places that I love so much and I could be there way more often because I live in the southern Missouri Ozarks rather than letting all the difficulty in life over bear us sometimes where we just kind of hide better to get out in the woods and often I find myself saying boy I'm sure glad I stepped out why don't I do it more often and sometimes I shake my head at myself
I understand what you're saying. But every time we get out, it's always a positive experience. 👍 By the way, my entire family is from the Ozarks, but in Arkansas. Beautiful place.
@@thewildernessphilosopher I moved up here about a hundred miles north of Calico Rock Lake Norfork I lived up Brushy Creek for 20 years on Lake Norfork one of the wildest parts of the lake off-grid Homestead
@@thewildernessphilosopher bought 17 acres in about 1991 up above the lake for about $5,600 from a real estate company in Calico Rock and then I broke my back had a spinal cord injury but we come down from Wisconsin few times back to the land we loved it out there it was amazing then I built a cabin in a little Homestead there had to lay call of myself I had 47 Willys Jeeps and free-range country around Lake Norfork Arrowhead hunting and driving over mountains and Hills down little logging roads that were shown to me by an old man who used to be a guide on the Buffalo River they still know he's a legend. Just asked about catfish Melvin Johnson at Norfolk he was my neighbor for many years
I have used about everything from the top edge of a car window to the bottom of a ceramic bowl when i worked in a restaurant. My go to is a Gerber diamond for roughing in my lower angle and then i switch to a piece of 1 inch ceramic pipe that i had heated up to a very high temperature and sharpen my cutting angle and this has given me risk satisfaction. Sometimes i cannot even touch my skin to shave without cutting myself and then i strop it
Thank you for clarifying this option! I like this method for good control of the angle. The blade cutting angles are visible and easier to sharpen than a stone. I would use a small sharpening stone in the same way you use the sandpaper.
Congratulations, you discovered it. Sandpaper will do a marvellous job. I’ve used it for years. As for shaving with a ¼” blade, several of my blades are thicker. Just checked with an antique kukri with a 13 mm spine, which is thick even for a kukri, and it shaved. At 84 my military and SAR days are over but I remember the weight factor and the need to reduce it. So, here’s a tip that I found for a quick field touch up, with no bulk. Heck, you had everything but the kitchen sink in your pack including 4 knives which would work by using their spine. I use mainly a chakmak, but any steel with a HRC higher than the knife being worked on will work and I have done so. Brace the knife, the tip bedded in a tree or piece of wood will do, and run the steel over the edge from the sides to realign that micro roll that develops during use. It works like a butchers steel. I use until it no longer seems effective and then it’s sandpaper time for a true sharpening. Usually a honing will do the job at this point and this seems to give longer life to the blade. You also talk about the ‘feel’ when all is correct. The sound will be different also.
I have Sharpen Knives all my Life, but you have showed me a very Interesting way to Sharpen Knives, for sure! Thank You so much for taking the time to show us!! I Appreciate it very MUCH !!!!! Oh Yea, I am 72 Years old!
Thank you Tony. Much appreciated. Are you from Napoli, sir? I've been there a couple of times. The people are extremely friendly, and the pizza is delicious.
Absolutely Clifford. I'm always looking for ways to cut weight as well. Please let us know your results after you give it a try. And thanks for watching 🙏👍
I can actually hear the knife getting sharper...meaning you don't hear the sound of the stroke as much. It sounds smoother each time you change the grit. Can't wait to try this! Thank you sir!
I've used this method for years for reprofiling & sharpening blades... I'd start as low as 40-60 grit for serious reprofiling, and work my way up to 7000 or 8000 grit, before final touch up on ceramic stones and/or stropping. And while I'm mostly migrating to diamond plates (largely because keeping the sandpaper flat without gluing it down can be tedious! But also diamond plates last a long time if you use light pressure), I'll still go back to sandpaper for certain niche applications... for example, the recurve on a few billhooks/brush axes I have. I put the sandpaper on a length of 2x4 with one side slightly rounded over for accommodating the recurve. Mirror-polished billhook, anyone?
I’ve been using a 300 and 600 grit Diamond for reprofile and getting a decent edge then go to 1k 2k 3k 5k sandpaper and strop on some chromium oxide compound and it’s mirror polished and wicked sharp.
Great video. I found that the automotive sandpaper works quite well. Lots of different grits for different needs. Relatively inexpensive at big box stores. It's made for tool steel. Keeps all my knives Mora sharp. That said, I have zero expertise with sharpening knives. But it's great for learning. Your right, it's all in maintaining the angle. And maintaining your already sharp edge. We all know #PreventionIsBetterThanACure
I am also 57 years and I've never been able to get my knives this sharp. I've tried stones and little gizmos but nothing worked like this. Thank you. F y I , i lose count to, even when i'm not talking 😂
Your content and quality of your videos and audio is 10/10. I was surprised when I saw you have 797 subscribers only*. I feel that's about to change anytime soon. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent. Take care ;) * I'll be your subscriber 798
When in the field, I use virtually this same technique but with a set of small Arkansas stones (although, I'm considering switching to diamonds). The only difference is, that I've learned to switch hands rather than turn the knife around. When stropping, turn the blade over its spine, not over the edge. For the experienced, this is not as important but as a general rule, it keeps the less experienced hand from lifting the edge off at too high an angle. I also think you'll find that 50 strokes is far more than necessary to get the best edge. All you're trying to do is remove the microscopic burr by fatiguing it until it breaks off at its root.
I have been using your method of sharpening with my diamond stone and it absolutely the best. I sharpened all of the kitchen butcher knives and now I have to do all of the dishes, because she is afraid to touch them!!!
Born in northern spain, saw how the pasiegos used a daille and maintained it. They used to pound the daille with a steel hammer at noon , oh and a soapstone soaked in water in a horn. Old knowledge. Ohh nice tarp setup.
I love the use of sandpaper and a block for tuning in a blade! This method should also work extremely well for concave blades, such as a kukri style edge given the right shape wood
I use dmt diamond stones and Japanese wet stones. I follow up using ceramic hones and a strop with flitz metal polish and plane leather. It usually does the trick!
Thank you. I will give this a try. seems you have cut through the mysteries of the knife sharpening trade. I have spent far more than I should have. I wish I would have seen this many years ago. Sharpening tools are a real rip off.
@@thewildernessphilosopher Yeh there's a lot of green here in the emerald isle, but that's because it rains a lot here....chuckle, but fella you should come, just make sure it's summer 😉 slainte🍀
I do very similiar sharpening on all of my knives. I do use vegetable or olive oil as a preservative. Chapstick works great as well. I always carry that in my pocket and use it only out in the field. I sincerely want to thank you for your time and effort in making this enjoyable and educating video. I wish you happy hunting in all you do ! A friend always ! By the way, who made your bushcraft knife ! A quarter inch spine that looks to be able to spark a firestick and a true scandi is impressive. I would like to obtain one. Any suggestions ? Thank you again my brother !
Hey Peter. Thanks for sharing your lubrication trick. Sounds like a good one. And thanks for the compliment, too. The knife is a TBS Grizzly, and there should be a link in the video description. It's a great knife!
@@oliviercoen446 I have used vegetable and olive oil for many years without the effects you described. There is nothing wrong with a very, very slight amount of acid in the oil. Many oils have acid in them and are used for lubrication, cutting and etc. Weak acid must penetrate the skin of the steel but since it is suspended in oil and weak, it will not penetrate unless hot or moisture is in the oil. Moisture is more likely to affect the steal than a miniscule amount of weak acid. If there are microfractures deep into the steal and the oil- acid compound is hot then some penetration can occur. You must remember that it is the oxidation of steel that is in want for avoidance. This means that steel exposed to air and moisture will rust a carbon steel. The purpose of any oil on a knife is to seal the surface from the effects of oxidation. When the acid in vegetable or even olive oil exists, only that which rises to the surface of the oil may become a little stronger but still not enough to do damge to the steel. In no case am I advocating using these oils for long term knife storage. When in the field, many tasks require the use of a knife including cutting game or meat, vegetables, mushrooms and the like as well as duties required for wood processing along with many other tasks of miscellany. Vegetable oil on a knife makes the food part of this safe to do. Ballistol is supposed to be food safe. Even rancid vegetable oil or even lard type rendered fat can be used for lubrication. Many antique knives have come to us today because of these blade treatments. Beaver fat is an excellent rust preventitive or even bear fat. Oils are used for sharpening although fats can be used. Learning to make your own oil from edible plants will assure you of a supply in the field, away from the populaces. The trick to maintaining blades in the field is too make sure each day a knife is cleaned and fresh oil is used to replace that which has been taken off. Three techniques are largely applied, sharpening, stropping and steeling for maintanance of blades. Steeling a blade is really great and helps to limit sharpening or even stropping. You can strop before or after or both or none at all with steeling. Steels for sharpening are very hard to find for outdoor knives, it could help to use a chef's steel but a true fixed blade steel is hard to find. Schrade makes one that only needs a very slight amount of work. Buck used to make the best but they no longer make them, I think they stopped in the nineties. I am in the market for them and I swear by them, even though I am not a swearing man. I make all of my own strops and use various compounds and even use an uncharged strop for the finest razor edge. I once shaved my face with a knife I sharpened just to amaze friends. Not a day goes by that I don't do two things, the first is to pray to Jesus and the second is to sharpen knives, axes, machetes or something by hand. I have a large diameter ceramic rod about a foot or so in length that I also use on some knives for a step before the final touch. So don't worry about acid, keep your knives up while in the field. At the end of the day, the knives get sharpened, lubricated, wiped down and I am ready for a new day. Thank you for your response and I hope you find my information helpful. This video is a wonderful video that I enjoyed watching, there is always something or a tip that I can learn. If you have any other comments, it may take a few days but I will answer them. Take care and happy hunting in the boonies !
Thank you So much for sharing this technique. After watching you, I ordered some silicon carbide automotive sandpaper with included sanding block. This method work really well!! I prefer it over the use of my angle setting device with diamond stones for my knives.
Cool camo just got the same digi type camo from KUIU for hunting.A hoodie,hat,gloves,face mask,pants and their small 1200 backpack deers be in trouble 😈. Wanted a spartan blade a little pricey for me until they partnered with Kabar but by than I had gotten the Large North American hunter from LT Wright great blade for hunting food prep etc. Ballistic is good but I have ended up just using mineral oil it’s good safe and very cheap I can get a giant bottle that will last u a lifetime for $10.
Hey Barry, thanks for sharing. Congrats on the Camo score. 👍👍 LT Wright makes good blades, and Spartan was very overpriced . My question is has their quality gone down since the partnership, as the 3 knives of theirs I have are all pre-merger.
I do expect that the kabar made versions are made cheaper though still quality especially for the price difference but u can still buy their straight up spartan version blades which I believe are the same quality as before just a guess since I’ve never had one in hand 🤷♂️.
Good job. I saw this method as a kid many years ago from my grandfather who was a butcher with Mayfair Hams of Sydney back in the 50's and 60's. Man that Scandi knife is incredible thick. Ray Jardine teaches the same method on his website for his fixed blade knives. Not keen on the hair shaving idea!!! Canola oil is cheap and safe.
