The winch is a work of art. You guys are looking hale and hearty, too. To fellow subscribers - kick in at Patreon. Help these lovely people get Brupeg launched.
With your new knee capper and shin destroyer I'd be inclined to add a lynch pin, role pin or cotter pin in the end of the shaft to ensure the hand wheel doesn't fall off and end up in the drink Make sure you tie your shackle pins with stainless steel bonding wire
When filling up oil using a funnel insert a small screwdriver in to the same hole as your funnel goes in and it will allow the trapped air out allowing the oil in. Thanks for posting
While watching I noticed all the deep cuts on Dame’s hands, dang, that’s a lot, poor guy’s working his hands to the bone.....then I saw the red paint! Jess, I love how you think, your ideas are always spot on! I’m hoping like mad everything works like magic, you’ve worked so hard on this one, I have a feeling it will!!!
You guys are an inspiration. I work projects all the time but they are nothing like yours. My projects are not even marine related. Your humor,commitment, (both to the project and each other), work ethic etc. cause me to look forward to your postings. I’ve never met you but I love you guys. Thanks so much for sharing with us. Truly grateful….
Hi guys down under. Been following this amazing rebuild for along while. You done really well. It's been a big project. Not for the faint hearted. You done well with the welding.. something I done fa a living with engineering for decades. Tig welding you real got the hang of it. Regards Dave Lincolnshire UK.
Your left hand (metric) to normal (imperial) conversions seem to be spot on! Lol 😂 Love you guys & everything y’all are doing, & a big hello from the southern US! Genuinely hope to meet y’all someday, I’ve been following y’all from the very beginning & I’m so excited to see Brupeg finally splash & cruising under her own power! You both are an inspiration to all of us ‘dreamers’...aim small miss small, aim big win big! Godspeed to you Jess & Dame, hope to see y’all on this end of the big pond one day! May you forever be blessed with fair weather & following seas.
Always put grease into the coupling where the hydraulic motor joins to the worm drive shaft otherwise it will flog out over the years from use while running dry. This happens a lot with hydraulic pumps mounted to truck gearbox PTO's
I was concerned when the steel hammer was used to drive the motor onto the keyed shaft! Maybe a piece of timber as a buffer next time. Keep up the good work.
Please don't pound on the hydraulic motor at all! Those small ones don't have any thrust bearings. You're banging on the internal valve plates. Pull it in with the bolts. And yes, grease the spline.
Using a peice of wood or pulling it in with bolts is no diferant than hitting straight on the motor A peice of wood is just to protect the paint or data tag Bolts are just to apply more force Either way your still applying force to the motor Grease on the shaft and gentle taps is how we do it all the time I'm a heavy desel mechanic and do motors you can hold 2 in your hand to pumps you need a crane to move Many differmat ways to do a job but if its completed and functioning at the end of the day it's a success
@@fowletm1992 The difference is the pounding - the shock load can break or deform internal parts. It would be best of course if the spline slid in, but it's pretty hard to clean them up once they're damaged. I own a hydraulic shop.
Hello from Ontario Canada! Winch looks great, as always Jess is a true trooper, helping you out Damian! One thing I noticed was that your shackle on the anchor didn’t seem to have been moused yet to prevent it coming apart…. Something to put on the checklist before launch day…
Wow getting that unwieldy hydraulic pump onto the shaft was so frustrating to watch it made my arms feel funny out of sheer frustration 😆 Well done Dame another job well done!
Nice job, peeps. Brain AND brawn! 🙂 I remember when I was a tiny little Elli no bigger than your thumb and working with ordinary bolts and fixings; I was taught that the rough torque setting of "f-tight" meant that you did things up "finger-tight". Once out in the real world and helping a sweet-natured monster of a guy called Big Jake (a rugby player and my jiu-jitsu sparring partner who weighed around 24 stone) to restore an old steam traction engine with tools, bars and wrenches I could barely lift, it soon became clear that "f-tight" actually stood for "flaming-tight", only the "f" didn't stand for flaming...🤭
2 episodes! 2 GREAT episodes! That winch is beautiful and I was at attention the entire time. The price of the winch new was shocking. Great job on it...I hope it performs as flawlessly as the work you did on it. You two rock!
Hi Damian and Jess , Just love the way you guys work together you can see the love you have for each other is just incredible thank you once again for your great videos cliff from down the road at Logan city Queensland Australia
Damian you scared me willies pulling that cheater bar towards your head. I did that with a 3 inch pipe wrench once and it slipped and gave me the El KaBong. Took me to my knees and would up in the emergency room counting fingers and the counts were off. Listen to Jess!
Slow pace of the oil going down reminded me of a joke I heard the other day and the problems finding skilled workers to do anything. An old lady rings up a plumber to fit her new stove. The plumber answers the phone and tells the old lady, "I'm very sorry love, but unfortunately I'm booked solid until November 28th 2025!" Unperturbed, the old lady says, "Okay then dear, will you be coming in the morning or that afternoon?" The plumber, "What difference does it make, it's three and a half years away?" The old lady, "Well dear, it's just I have the electrician coming that morning."
If I remember right, that plate was stainless. Once heated, stainless hardens and will destroy any tool metal other than carbide. Even work hardening does the same thing. The carbide in wood tools isn’t the same grade as used in metal tooling, but it’ll work just fine as you found out for the “in a pinch” situation.
That's a metalworking carbide bur that he used mate, just has the same shank size as a 1/4in router - the tool itself was the correct tool for the job, not a woodworking tool. Obvs the router is a novel idea but fits the correct spindle size, speed and is designed for axial loading so props to Dame's ingenuity there, not surprising it worked so well. Gave me a handy option for using my 18V LXT router as well where you need to maintain perpendicular cutting too.
Hi Damien, I know you are not showing everything, am only saying this as when I have seen it being used it was insufficient for the job. All mating surfaces and threads not using sealant, use liberal anti-seize. The smallest amount of salt water laden air does incredible damage on mating surfaces, often making them nearly impossible to get apart again later. It will get sucked into those parts by the fairly small temperature changes.
Please treat the whinch as extremely important for safety reasons. Believe you check the bearing clearance, preload Gear contack patern. Clutch condition. Filter on your hydraulic line. Need to check the winch once a week check for leaks, heat build up. A lot of energy at that point exspessialy when you use your engine to assist and a sudden drop asstern. Keep safe.
I would put a cotter pin/roll pin and washer on the end of the wheel side shaft to prevent the wheel from vibrating loose and falling off, where it will inevitably be lost at sea. You can't torque up the wheel and it is not designed for heavy loadings so it could easily vibrate loose with pounding seas and engine vibration. What you need is a podger (a tapered shaft) to align the holes for the bolts, I;m surprised you don't have one as they are really useful. What happens when you have an emergency and the main engine isn't running and you need to drop anchor? (loss of engine power and you are drifting towards some rocks!)
Have the vegetable oil go through the coil and put the coil in a small tank full of coolant. Set it up in the engine room so you don’t have to run hoses every where and rise a contamination in the fuel tank.
Yeah agreed, think he'll be fighting a loosing battle with fuel slosh trying to heat up a localised area of fuel/oil in-tank around a pickup. Dame, think about maybe buying a oil/water heat exchanger you could plumb directly and keep serviceable/replaceable - I understand it might be tricked collected the oil out of the tank in the first place though which I'm guessing is why you're looking at going the in tank rout - I wonder is veggie oil like trecal sub 5 degC? haha
If you have fears that the oil won't be moved about, you can easily rig (down the line) thin copper lines run to a small oil pump. There should be more than enough space inside to route these lines to the key points where oil is required. If it works in lathes, it works for this too.
I think you could find a better heat exchanger to preheat the oil. Lots of possibilities much better than the coil you already have. Avast! Burp the anchor hoist!
Great job! Do you receive any monetary returns if the viewer watches the whole advertisement’s? If so I will no longer hit the “skip adds” button. Just wondering.😀🇨🇦❤️
