Tom, you are gonna need a way to drain condensation from your tank if the tractor doesn't have a dryer on the compressor. Every time you cycle the system, you will get condensation from the expansion of the gas. If you don't have a drain in the tank, it will eventually rust out
Coming along, glad the valves have arrived. I was working with a plumber/ gas fitter and he never uses that tape, he said best thing to use is the master plumbers/ gas fitters paste. Seals air / water / oil and gas, is pressure approved. Don't need heaps and 100% seals first time no worries. I never use the tape anymore and use paste on every fitting no matter if i am plumbing, working on vehicles.
Is the powder getting moisture from the condensation from the compressor. If so you can get a moisture trap. I think that’s what it’s called. Great job Tom.
Hi Tom, just wanted to check that you have fitted a safety relief valve on the air receiver to ensure it’s not going to be a time bomb should it go over pressure. Try using loctite 572 or 577 thread sealant instead of ptfe tape it’s much better on pipe work. A great idea to blow down the bailer
@@Tomlamb980 Hi Tom I have worked on compressors / air receivers my whole working life and you can never trust a machine not to go over pressure, a simple valve can save a lot of problems, every air recovery in a system should have its own valve to protect it . I will get one sent up to you, we have them on the shelf.
Just have a check for the design pressure on the air receiver it should be stamped on one end of the convex ends normally stamped WP with TP sometimes which will be the test pressure let me know the WP so we can match a valve to suit the pressure.
Loving this series of vids! You need a new hat…. “Now we’re engineering!” 🤣 Loving the cheeky edit when you realized the isolation valve was the wrong way round and the lever wouldn’t open all the way 🤣
Hi Tom great idea . One thing that will help you with your leaks is fit two union fittings between the elbow and the inlet to the solenoid valve that will allow you to tighten everything before you fit the solenoid
Hi folks 🎉 Hi Tom🎉 thanks your getting there. Great idea bet you have been mulling this over, and you now see some fruits of your developments. Hope, you get your drilling up together. 🎉🎉
Have you thought about some sort of agitator on the nozzle? Something like the spinning nozzles on the end of a power washer. Little more complicated but it may give you better cleaning.
Would it make more sense to order things: Manual Isolator > Fire Extinguisher Tee > Solenoid. Just thinking that way you can use the fire extinguisher tee without needing to separately engage the solenoid?
The answer to your thumbnail is YES. Even as a fire protection system it would be worth its weight in gold. Blowing the debris off the machine would be a bonus. Ever thought about using Halon for the fire system. Not to dear but discharge with care as it can kill you. Thanks for posting....
It’s looking good Tom. You’re doing well trying to work on this along with everything else. What about taking a line of the pressure gauge to connect to a second gauge in the cab that way you can see if you have to increase or decrease the flow into the tank. Has the cat signed the concrete yet? 😂
Bail blaster is genius, how about a scaled down version for the clearance of flattus! The pants blaster! windy wind removal! Proving yet again I too am guinness /genius...
I am really worried about this blaster. You are effectively building a bomb. Any failure of this equipment on the high pressure side will produce high velocity projectiles that could kill someone. There are so many connections and potential failure points. Be careful Tom, would hate for something bad to happen. You really need an additional pressure release valve in the system to ensure you don’t over pressure the system.
@@Tomlamb980 u got me confused tom I do a lot of compressor work and I am not sure what part of a bike valve would go inline with the feed from your tractor to the tank to stop the air from your main tank just flow back out of the connector you plug into the socket on the tractor
Good idea, but waste of time building a prototype in order to find out it doesn't work. You would need a ten times bigger air-tank to achieve what you want...or a gigantic air compressor.
Today I watched a video of a John Deer combine burning down. As the reason, it was said the gear box for the drum overheated, starting a fire. This gearbox seems to be located under the plastic diesel tank. When the driver noticed the situation, it was already too late. In another video, the reason given was the same. There it was a lack of oil, leaking oil tube. These $500000 machines seem to have no $30 oil pressure or temperature sensor. Maybe the manufacturer can't afford how much the $30 sensor cuts into the profit. Well, for the manufacturer, it's win-win. Don't spend the money on the sensor, sell another combine. A cab full of monitors and no warning. These insanely expensive highly flammable machines have no fire detection and no fire suppression at all. Your invention seems quite desirable to have, at least to me.
Yes if a combine was running in industry, key components like that would be linked up to a simple temperature sensor. Very low cost and would trigger an alarm long before a fire could be started, may even save the gearbox as well. Common problem on the drum drive gearboxes oil seal fails and gearbox runs dry till something catches fire, crazy.
Manufacturers are terrible like that. The example I use is that I've never driven a car with a factory fitted low coolant sensor -- something to alert you when a hose starts leaking: *** BUZZ *** "Hey, you're running low on coolant, you should check it before you lunch the engine!" Yet my current runaround has a sensor fitted to inform me that I'm running low on....windscreen washer fluid 🙄.
