THE BEER IS POURING TOO WARM 

Amen rev

Thank you good sir!

Haha 😂 dope saying man if only it were true🥺🥲😂😂😂

Comment of the day!

You jinxed me bro right after reading this comment the phone rang

Lol I say that phrase a lot too.

Thanks bud I look forward to that drink!

le-whoopsie

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yeah, i saw the same thing, he turned on B while working on C

Glad I was not the only one. I was afraid to speak up.

@@keith_5584 don't be afraid, its good to speak when something is looking wrong

Thanks Richard!!

@@HVACRVIDEOS ​ I'm on your side Chris 100%. I may not always agree but that doesn't mean I'm right and you're wrong! I'm here because I fully respect you and what you're doing out there in the heat. I totally recommend all new guys to the trade (and those who think they know it all and those who know they don't) to follow your videos and take in how you approach fault finding and repairs. 👌

Came here to say that And I believe the contactor he was working on was br B as well. The older looking contactor has a big "C" label beside it

I love too, but realistically, the motor may be cheaper than the hour man of being repaired, also, is brand new.

In this case, it is not only the work needed to fix it, but also reliability. If this motor fails, the systems will shut off on high pressure, causing the freezers to warm up and trash thousands of dollars worth in food. While fixing parts is nice, it does not make sense in a critical application, and just makes more sense to trash a $100 motor than to risk loosing $2000 of frozen food because it failed on friday night and noone noticed until monday morning. Fixing parts makes sense if the part is unlikely to cause major damage if it fails, but things like walk-in freezer fan motors or engine oil pumps should go in the trash if they are in questionable condition.

@@unmountablebootvolume Very true. I forgot to mention I did repairs on ventilation and A/C fan motors, so in case of failure no damage is done. One of the fans was complete unobtainium here where I live, so it was either repairing it or replacing of the whole split A/C. Other ones are ventilation stuff, that's way too expensive to replace for my taste - the complete assembly of the motor with the propeller is 200€, when put into a metal shroud of roof fan (few pieces of bent sheet metal) the price suddenly skyrockets to 800€. Two standard ball bearings (SKF is my go to brand) costs around 5€. Labor is pretty much nonexistent on these - in one case there were four screws keeping both halves of motor case together, on the other there is a circlip on the motor shaft that prevents "falling apart". Bearings are quite small in diameter, so they don't pose much of a challenge to replace (I can do it while still on the roof). I'm not counting the time needed to disassemble the whole unit, as this is the same whether I would be repairing or replacing parts. In most cases there were bearings that went bad. On A/C unit it was a torn seal that allowed water to creep in and rust the front bearing. On ventilation fans bearings were worn because they work 16 hours a day. If after inspection I see windings are good and only bearings were cause, I give the motor a good cleaning and replace the bearings. If windings are damaged, smaller motors usually go into scrap bin, as it is usually worthwhile to rewind motors from 1 kW up.

saw that too

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0:48 that’s a good one! “Let’s SCROLL on over here”

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yeah, but the engineer probably thought and was taught, the metal type wouldn't vibrate and wear through from outside in as fast. probably taught that way! lol, it's a catch 22.

Yeah it would be a good idea but it's too time consuming and I don't carry a big enough shop vac with me...

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In theory the motor is still protected by the correct fuse as current has to run though the other fuse. The only issue is no earth fault protection excepting the supply fuses above inline before the fan fuses.

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I would have thought running a cable rather than wires in these conditions would remove a point of abrasion on the insulation, that is the wire to wire contact. Seems to me a suitable grade of cable run between proper supports would have less mechanical issues than running through metallic conduit for the sake of it.

@@Monkeh616 It will be a regulatory thing. Some places require the use of singles in high vibration areas as using a bundled cable prevents you from being able to examine the individual wires for damage. It might seem strange but wires in a sheath can still jostle and wear the insulation.

@@retrozmachine1189 Ah, yes, in a typical flexible cable the inner wires move freely in the sheath (one hopes). You can have them semi bonded so that doesn't occur, which makes stripping a joy and increases bend radius. Double insulated singles here aren't common any more or overly robust, but I believe you guys have.. is it THHN? singles with a hard outer sheath over the insulation, low friction.

@@Monkeh616 I'm not in the USA. We do have the wire type in Australia though. SDI - single double insulated. I'd be surprised if there is a country on earth that doesn't have the equiv.. and has an electrical supply too of course.

@@retrozmachine1189 Apologies, my bad assumption. In the UK we have double insulated singles, with a fairly soft sheath, known as 6181Y, which would fare quite poorly subjected to vibration abrasions. THHN, if I'm remembering rightly, has a hard nylon layer but doesn't count as double insulated, I don't believe we have a specific equivalent.

Yeah, I saw that too, but on going back to look he was testing for continuity on the system C contactor.

That's a good idea, but it's usually more trouble than it's worth with all the different kinds of "junk" that can be found in the air at any given time. In NY state, or at least my part of NY state, that idea would never get off the ground, because in the spring time all the trees bud out and there's loads of pollen in the air, plus later on in the year you get the double-whammy of normal dandelion fluff in the air, plus the dang Dagwood trees go to seed around that time and they have just the most obnoxious kind of filter-clogging seeds you can imagine. It's like dandelion seeds but 20x worse, because there's just SO MUCH OF IT. I'm an auto mechanic, and when the dagwoods go to seed is when I get most of my yearly crop of cabin and engine air filter replacement calls (mostly "why is my engine not making any power?" complaints for the engine air filter, or "Why is there nothing coming out the vents of my car's heating/ac system even tho the fan's on full blast?" complaints for the cabin air filter).

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Could be that, could be a bad electronic ballast, or if it's a magnetic ballast it could be a bad starter. Lots of variables. EDIT: That's why I love ballast-bypass LED tubes, they fit in the same tombstone sockets as the existing tubes, you can get them that have a wide voltage input range (anything from 90v to 240v because they use a switch-mode power supply just like you'd find in a PC power supply or cell-phone charger brick or nearly all "wall wart" type mains supplied DC power supplies these days), and you can even get them that have the power feed set up so you can feed it into one end of the "tube", (2 wires to one tombstone), or any combination of a double-ended feed. Basically if you get the right LED replacement tubes, it won't even matter where you hook the hot and neutral wires so long as they don't just have a direct short before they get to the tube. The only real "hassle" with these kind of LED bulbs is that you have to entirely take the existing ballast out of the circuit, or it'll fry the tubes in short order from the "start voltage" spikes it tries to send to the tubes (because the ballast isn't smart enough to know that you've put something other than fluorescent tubes in there, so it just does what it always does). That's what they mean when they say they're "ballast bypass" tubes, you have to "bypass" the "ballast" to get them to work right. At worst, you might need some more wire nuts and some 14ga solid copper wire (some of black and some of white, THHN or THOW) for use inside the fixtures, in order to get them up and running. But I'm not an electrician, and it's simple enough for me to figure out, so IMO anyone who has a basic understanding of electricity and an appropriate level of respect for high voltages (aka anything over 48v) can do it. I just bought a 20 pack of 4ft LED tubes (ballast bypass kind) like this to use in my basement that currently has all its lighting taken care of by 4ft fluorescent tubes on magnetic ballasts. Quite an upgrade, and I might have to take out half the damn tubes because these new LED's are roughly 1200 lumens per tube, which is REALLY BRIGHT (an average tactical flashlight is 1000 lumens, but with a much more directional and not diffused beam of light). At least I'll have plenty of spares! If you're worried about safety, they say they're UL rated, and if you're worried about price, that whole 20 pack of 4 foot tubes, on Amazon, cost me less than $100 with Prime shipping (so it'll be here Tuesday or Wednesday since I ordered it Saturday). However, since they're replacing fluorescent tubes, it's pretty obvious to say that they don't support dimming, because 99% of the time you can't dim a normal fluorescent tube anyways so why should the LED thing that goes in the same spot support dimming? If you DO want dimming, they make entire LED fixtures that are designed to support low voltage dimming signals (0-10v) that will fit in the same spot as the existing fluorescent fixtures. But I wanted the option to keep replacing "just the bulb without having to re-wire the fixture" when the LED's eventually burn out (which happens far more frequently than it should, IMO, I shouldn't have to replace an LED bulb for 10y after I put it in, yet I can't seem to get an entire 3y out of it! Planned obsolescence at it's "best", I'm sure) The only thing they might not handle well is damp (bordering on wet) environments. And by that, I mean the kind of environment where you're already thinking about putting in waterproof light fixtures for the fluorescent tubes, so even my basement will not cause problems that I can't solve (maybe corrosion on the contact pins of the tubes, nothing a little sandpaper won't fix). I do have plans to prevent water coming into my basement too, because I know where the water's coming from.

You'll notice in this video that the "capacitor strap" in question was in fact not even a proper capacitor strap, it's just a standard-issue worm-type hose clamp, the kind that no sane automotive engineer uses anymore because they chew up the hose too much and that leads to early failures. How do I know nobody sane uses those kind of hose clamps anymore? I'm an auto mechanic, and they switched pretty much universally to the "spring-wire type" over a decade ago by now (probably closer to 15-20y ago by now actually, I might only be 35 now but that makes me feel old). EDIT: In any case, the far superior thing to retain a capacitor is a proper bracket for it, situated far away from the vibration of the motor itself. Capacitors don't like vibration just like everything else doesn't like it. If it's severe enough, it can break the connection from the plates of the capacitor to the terminals, given enough time anyways.

That's a good idea, but the likely reason he couldn't throw that kind of conduit away was that he was trying to get the thing working again as quickly and affordably as possible, while still "doing it right". EDIT: I've just thought of another reason, it might be as simple as he didn't have any of the right kind of non-metallic flexible conduit in his van at the time. END EDIT In this case, that wire probably won't rub thru for the remaining life of that whole rack, it looks like it's been around for 5-10 years so in another 5 it's gonna be time to start looking at a whole new rack (or a bunch of discrete units, depending on what the customer wants of course).

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Strangely enough lack of airflow caused by blocked condenser reduces current!

@@76queen I thought that too. Like when a vacuum cleaner clogs and speeds up due to lack of air - less load.

And now i reached the 17 minute mark of the video and saw that you noticed it yourself. Good Job 👍

@@Blubkuh If you're doing this on a PC, you can edit your comments pretty easily in the future. I'm not sure how easy it is to do on the mobile app for RU-vid, but there still should be a way to do it. EDIT: Oh boy this is funny, now I can edit my comment to tell you how to edit your comment, because I forgot to include that the first time I posted it! Anyways, on PC, how you edit a comment is you hover over the comment with your mouse, and you should see 3 dots pop up to the right of the comment (between the text and the recommended videos feed). Click on those 3 dots and you should get a menu that pops up, then click on "edit" to start editing your comment. This is also how you DELETE your comments if you later decide you wish you hadn't posted them (because the other option that pops up is "delete", which will pop up a confirmation dialog asking you if you're sure you want to delete it). END EDIT Also, if you want to time-stamp something in the future, you can just state the time as Hours : Minutes : Seconds (no spaces) and RU-vid will parse that into a link you can click on that will jump you to the right time. For instance, for your time stamp, you'd just put in 4:01 and RU-vid should take care of the rest (at least within this video).

A continuously running fan pulls more dirt.

I'm in southern california I don't always work in the desert... we have a crap ton of micro cimates