gold actually also reflects a bunch of red light IRL and to get a more convincing gold material when im working in game engines and blender I will make it so that the material reflects with a red tint among a few other things. what I'm wondering is if you could get an even more realistic gold by using like an orange and a little red ink rather than just orange
Yep, retributor looks a lot nicer. I’d be less salty if he didn’t say the others weren’t as good. Calling it “the best” for some mid gold is wild. Could’ve said “I found a nice new gold” lol
I love that people keep rediscovering these things the old grognards worked out in the past because all the old forums and bulletin boards and magazines are no longer easily accessible.
Try putting down the Silver ink, THEN going over it with ANY speedpaint. Yellow or orange for gold. Colors for colored metallic. I have basically thrown away all my metallic paints after finding this out. PS. make sure your prime with matte BLACK before putting down the silver ink. It just looks much better.
@@FrozenThrog that last tip I've heard before from a pro-painter on RU-vid. A gloss coat will help break the surface tension and let your wash seep into cracks easier and stain less. Though I haven't tried it because it seems like a lot of effort to prevent coffee staining....
And if you leave a little black peaking through it makes for a rich metal flake candy look when you hit it with transparent paints or inks like the createx candy 2o line
This is the cheat code for two things: Colored metallic, and speed paints A single drop of colored in into silver or gold ink/paint will give you beautiful colored metallic without dilutions the mica or flakes used. The key to speed paints is ink over acrylic paints because of the behavior you want out of your medium/flow aid mix. This is a great video
I've been looking into airbrushing/these inks ever since the tzeencth video, your sandstone necrons got me into painting to cope with chronic tinnitus, way to go Midwinterminis!
Excited to see you post more shorts like this involving painting tips from your videos condensed for people to see! Maybe you should make a short of the Midwinter Medium for those who missed it.
Only problem I have with this is the metallic inks, the metallic pigments in them are massive so they always come out looking glittery rather than smooth metal
@@ikerzabala466 I prefer the Vallejo Metal Color range, hands down the best acrylic metallics on the market, I was just commenting regarding the use of metallic inks.
I prefer ProAcryl metallics from Monument Hobbies, they even have a metallic medium that let's you use any of their colors to create your own metal color like you are showing, but cool idea.
@DismemberTheAlamo True. Vallejo are also notoriously inconsistent in sheen, viscosity, opacity, adhesion, and airbrushabilty from color to color and product groups. They work, but there are better acrylics now. I got rid of all my Vallejo paints after using ProAcryl. Proacryl are noticeably better in every way. Just my opinion.
@DismemberTheAlamo Medium is still paint, just without coloring pigments added. My point was Vallejo is subpar. Having it on the market for longer than another competitor doesn't provide value to the painter. That is merely a bullet point for the marketing team. Truly, I don't care what you use. Use what you like. My point in my original post was mediums exist, like Vallejo or ProAcryl offerings, that do a better job of what the OP was trying to show using silver and ink. Inks can be reactivated. Using a medium doesn't have that problem. Use what you want. You do you.
Weirdly reminds me of those traditional Slavic painted wood pieces (most often spoons, plates, containers) where they use dust of a silvery metal (traditionally tin, though now aluminum) and Flaxseed (Linseed) oil. This gave them a really nice golden finish that would subsequently been painted.
My favorite gold, that I can't get anymore, is the old Balthazar gold from citadel. They changed the recipe a while back adding more red pigment to make it more bronze instead of the strong dark gold before.
I'd alternatively recommend using Vallejo metal colours, then applying a yellow orange azo ink and then a thinned down transparent burnt sienna for the recesses.
My technique is much different but I like the deepness it provides. I do bronze base coat, then burnished gold as a 90% coverage dry brush. Then finally shining gold as a highlight. It's mostly dry brushing, so it's quite easy, but gives a bit of dimension.
I think it's depends on the taste of how "gold" would you like "your gold" to be. Mine would be glossy silver -> couple clear orange coat. Not TOO goldy-goldy-blingy but very deep rich gold feeling.
The best gold is definitely GSW gold pigment, you only need that with the gold of vallejo metal colors and thats the very best gold. You can actually see it in action in one of the vincent venturella videos here in YT
I just use Testors enamel for my metallics, it looks a lot more realistically metallic in my experience. Their dark red metal flake also looks killer on Word Bearers armor.
Just get Vallejo Metal Colours, they are basically the same thing but you don't have to mix all metal colours. The range is a bit limited, so you do need to do some mixing to get good tones, but it's well worth it. Easily the best acrylic metallic paints out there.
This can be used with tons of other colored inks to gets all sorts of metallics as well. I've been doing this myself for a while and there's tons of benefits to doing this way.
I think a company also makes a similar golden acrylic ink pot. I've got a few I use for different metals they also run incredible in air brushes for quick army painting in said colors ❤
One of the rules of any art that I learned is that anything labeled gold is usually a bunch of bull Scheisse on its own . It’s way better to either mix it with something else or use other colors.
my to go silver recipe is usually - duraluminium by vallejo - brownish yellow ink - reflexive yelllow and to boost it - yellow gold metallic pigments ;)
Nice I actually like to do a nice chrome base with zealot speed painter or something close to it contrast paint come out with a dull gold shine its really nice
Retributor is awesome, i am good. Overall i think there are two ways of painting minis, the ''realistic'' approach, with shadows and trying to paint like the real world. and the GW approach, great visibility a bit computer/cartoon optic but not much. i learned i prefer the later a lot, its just nice to look at i dont know why. And citadel colours are just the best in that regard imo.
Sorry, I hate to say this, but I must critique First, brown makes the gold look like cheese. Use orange ink instead Second, don't mix it. Layer it. Two thin layers of silver, them a layer or two of orange ink, give it a flesh shade or brown shade, and violá.
Yesterdat I was painting some Star Wars Legion Droidekas. Drushbrushed silver (three different shades, took a while lol) and then Flesh Tearers Red and Gor Grunta Fur for the reddish-bronze metallic yet slightly matte finish. Looks incredibly and it's so easy. I genuinely think silver with a contrast coat is the absolute best way to do coloured metals.
I hate gold everything, so this is great. Vallejo liquid silver is probably basically the same thing as this ink. Just use a brush you're not a fan of, it's gonna get wrecked and it takes IPA to SORTA try to reverse the damage done by the flakes drying in the bristles.
I don't like how this looks personally but I've done similar things with silver paints. Mix some Chainmail Silver from Vallejo with some Terradon Turquoise Contrast and you can make some really cool green metallic armor
Alclad II destroys acrylic paint when brushed on...or at least my Alclad II chrome does. I've heard their chrome is a little hot, but either way I'd recommend sealing first.
Yeah, no. I don't know, this is kind of a trend that's been popping up more and more recently (I know it's been around for a long while, I mean moreso in the RU-vid sphere) of mixing silvers with inks or contrasts and it just, doesn't work. It doesn't look that great in this video and though I've seen some okay or even good enough results from the method before, I feel as though just buying a $5-10 bottle of any other quality gold paint that I don't need to color match every time I want to revisit an army will do just fine.
I use Vince Venturella's gold recipe: GSW antique gold pigment, Vallejo metal color (airbrush paint) copper and gold. It's expensive, but it makes as close to accurate gold paint that I've personally seen.
Watching oldschool miniature enthusiasts learn that you can mix paints instead of acquiring 30 bottles of slightly different pigments for one figure is so precious.
