The Best Gun Oil. Your SHTF Gun May Depend On It. 

I hope you gain a large following. Very impressed with your videos. Welcome to the game. Well done.

For me, I think grease is best as a lubricant for sliding parts, like bolts, carriers, slides, rails, etc. I use oil mostly as a rust preventative and for lubricating tight or enclosed areas of the gun.

I only use Lucas red and tacky mixed with 0w40 European motor oil, always used synthetic oil but when I found the 0w40 it was way better in all temperatures. I make it to the consistency between honey and peanut butter. Thickens the oil so it stays and the oil makes it great in hot weather and cold weather. Been using it for 20 years plus.

If it's a SHTF situation, and one is forced to move out, then one needs to find an alternate lube to keep things from literally rusting away.

I’ve had good luck with Lucas red and tacky #2. They’ve came out with a gun specific grease now that’s a little softer. Has a flash point of 540 degrees and is excellent. Wipes off and doesn’t run off. Pretty sweet. But I still have the same tube of Lucas #2 that’s been dedicated to my BCG for close 10 years lol. Works like a champs. Cheap too. Appreciate the video!

On some occasions I prefer gun grease over any gun oil Also. I store my firearms barrel down

Most gun lubricants are penetrating oils, so that you can get effective coverage with even poor application technique. Some gun oils also leave a dry lubricant when they evaporate (particularly true for evaporating oils - their design is to flush contaminants out when in a liquid state and then leave behind a dry lubricant when they evaporate - so you don’t end up with a tacky residue that dirt can adhere to. If you use a gun regularly you can safely use a non-drying oil - it will cook off from the hot parts, and the non-hot parts are generally either pretty well protected from grime (triggers) or are reciprocating and will clear themselves off through motion (the bolt). Where these (generally heavier) oils run into problems are things like the recoil spring.

Good info, you have another sub, good luck w/ your channel.

Bushmaster, when Richard Dyke owned it, recommended and sold Fire Power 10 CLP. It was thicker viscosity than Break Free CLP and seem to cling better to metal. I never had a dry failure using it. Sometimes, my firearms sat in my safe for 6 months at a time and I never re-lubed them before going to the range.

I must say, I put a drop each of Weapon Shield and Hoppes oil on a porcelain tile. It sat for two months in the open air in my home, and those drops are still there and at the same size. Maybe we're seeing capillary action and not really drying.

10w30 synthetic and Balistol for cleaning

I've used motor oil for years. Even before they developed "synthetic". I mixed some Ed's Red, sans acetone and lanolin, and use for CLP. If I need to remove copper I just use ammonia based window cleaner.

Slip2000 ewl grease and AGL 0000 very thin grease are what I have been using for any parts that has metal on metal ! I use a hobby model paint brush and just apply a very thin layer over any wear parts and that is it, From +30c to -50c these gun greases do not freeze do not gunk up and do not migrate I have firearms I don't shoot much because of their age and value but I inspect them every year and years later the grease is still exactly where I put it and they function perfectly I use CLP oil for cleaning my firearms but for lubing a firearm for use or storage a very thin layer of slip 2000 grease or AGL very thin grease is what works I found the best

Are you an expert in lubricity? George Fennell created Weapon Shield and also FP-10 which he sold Shooter's Choice FP-10 has changed over the years and not for the better. Been using Weapon Shield since 2015 on many different firearms and they continued to function without issues. Did you shoot them for a period of time, was there any malfunctions due to lack of visible lubrication? Frog Lube will sometimes look dry but when you start shooting it tends to creep out of no where and seep in to areas where you didn't want it to be and why I don't use it. Some lubricants leave just a small film (barrier) and perform just fine, have you used a lubricant called Strike Hold? Leaves a dry film after you wipe off the excess and believe was develop for dry dust criminates which causes issues for most lubricants and greases.

I'd be curious about Wilsons gun oil and G96 (in the can, not the synthetic). I use the Wilson's (both the "oil" and slightly thicker "universal") on my metal frame guns and seems to last when stored. The G96 I use mostly as a cleaner, but as a lube for the polymer ones that seem to like to run almost dry anyway. I have noticed that after a couple weeks it has dried a bit.

MPro7 has given me best results…..staying put, cleaning, and slickness

I use FLUID FILM it doesn't dry out. And is good for corrosion control

I use thicker engine oil, Royal purple 5w30, it runs slicker and almost never dry out

I would probably try mixing grease and motor oil to a honey like consistency and applying it. Weapon Shield offers grease as well and can be mixed with that weapons shield oil to a similar consistency but that would probably be cost prohibitive.

Just goes to show you that most "gun oils" aren't really any better than simple motor oil. When it comes to cost per ounce, motor oil is the clear winner.

I mix synthetic grease with 5w-20 or 30 synthetic oil until it's like a loose honey. I live in S Carolina. always warm here.

Funny tings happen below 18*F with oils. I start by freezing it. So that rules out most oils. It can be a simple as taking warm gun outside in the cold. And having it condense and freeze. I use 3 in 1 or hoppes. I have wondered about using lithium grease because it does stay where you put it. And passes freeze test.

You know about the arm brace issue? Decision time for you and others....

I put grease in the motor oil per SOTAR Gun Sriracha and it stays oiled up.

ORIGINAL WeaponShield is not made anymore. The product using that name is not the original product .

Could you try Gun butter

Transmission fluid is all you need

Try gun fighter oil. It claims it will never dry up or run.

Ballistol for the win

This was a great test. The CLP spec does not even have a standard for evaporation if you can believe it. Both the prior lubes the Army used LSA and PL Special actually had one back in the 60s and 50s even. I referenced your test on my channel for my own lubricant test where I pitted 11 different lubes against each other on a suppressed rifle. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UwB17A3egGU.html

Transmission fluid

Balistol

What about corrosion resistance from the motor oil.i use lucas extreme on internals and frog lube on the barrel and front of slide