You can swap the plastic ends of a stock radiator with good ones off a newer broken radiator from the wreckers by folding the tabs up carefully, cleaning the big o-ring and tapping the tabs back down onto the new plastic piece, it works really well if you take your time.
Mine got to 105C during summer. Probably very lucky I didn't crack the head. I'm also trying to work out a way for a FMIC without getting rid of my AC. There is not much room in there. Good work to you as usual :)
105 is ok. Anything over 110 I would be starting to get worried. I've been at 120 before when my rad cap was stuffed and engine was still fine. I obviously shut it off though
I just bought a 1992 Hilux here in the US, the previous owner replaced the radiator that just uses 2 little electric fans I'm not sure what brand any of it is right now I just got it back home. The guy told me it ran fine and I could drive it 1k miles back home, but 30 minutes down the road it was over heating but it was also like 110 degrees Fahrenheit outside. But because I wasn't really aware of the vehicle and how it ran I got it to like 260 to 280 degrees Fahrenheit. Hopefully it didn't ruin anything he already replaced the head with the 3.0l version one. I believe it's stock height with 33 inch tires though so a little more drag on it than stock. But now it's hard to get it to start. I have to crank it over a couple times and then once it starts rev it up for maybe 10 seconds and then it'll stay running. It also leaks oil from the rear main seal and maybe other places I had to trailer it home last weekend and haven't had time to look at it yet. But I'm guessing I'll need a better radiator setup so if anyone has some links or brands to stick with that'd be great I doubt anyone here in the US carries anything so I'll have to get it shipped over.
you are lucky that your ac condenser is not on the bottom where the bash plate is. mine is an LN130 with a factory cooling system and automatic, Yet to see it overheat flogging it up hills but now you got me keeping an eye out for it.
Hey dude my car struggles with its cooling would you fab and sell that bottom stainless pipe? I’d love to do this but don’t have the welding skills to do the piping part
A really good cooling mod i did on my ln172 was replace my fucked out AC condenser. Also check out elite weld they make custom fans for these they use a Mitsubishi truck fan only thing you will need to do is make a bigger bottom fan shroud.
Hi i have a auto kzn130 toyota surf and am going to install a aftermarket trans cooler ive read alot of guys just use the aftermarket transcooler by itself then others say integrate it in with the factory cooler radiator also the aftermarket trans cooler is 200mm x 200mm wondering if this is big enough and does it have to be bleed up when its installed
I would personally get a standalone cooler for the trans. As for whether that would be big enough - I don't know, I would try go a bit bigger if you could as it's a pretty important thing to keep cool.
do the solid axle swap just like just like evrery one else has wy did they make ifs shit for when you have to do solid swap .even the latest 2022 4x4 first mod is solid axle swap and plastic rocker cover.
@@boostedbuiltgarage Assuming you have the 1kz-te, which it looks like in the video; putting the thermostat before the radiator instead of after gives you a more consistent operating temp and coolant flow. In the stock position, it's regulated by the passing coolant on the exit side of the thermostat so when it gets to temp and starts opening, a surge of cold coolant rushes from the radiator. Even though the car is at temp or even sometimes too hot, this cold liquid causes the thermo to snap shut. If the thermostat is mounted before the radiator, only hot coolant can flow past and there's no sudden changes in temp opening/closing of the thermostat. Another good and easy mod is to change the resistor on the temp gauge. People were complaining that the temp was jumping around a lot and getting hot etc so Toyota put a stronger resistor in to keep the needle more steady. The downside with this "fix" is you don't get accurate temp readings. If it says hot, it's already too late. These two things are the cause of many cracked heads in an otherwise amazing motor.
It's actually a 2lte. Thermostat is in stock position and seems to work fine. I have full instrumentation of all temps and pressures via my DEFI 10 in 1 gauge in the cab
I'd bet if you fuck those steel heater lines running above the manifold and run them somewhere else you would see a big diff, I had problems with a kzn165 no matter what I did temps would steadily creep up towing and constant high load. Yours arnt in as a bad spot as the kzn but still close. I had this prob from stock to mech pump running 20 plus , nothing worked as good as re-routing what Toyota did
