The 5 Miter Saw Mistakes That Beginners Make!!!(some Pros as well) 

Good, quick and informative. Didn't make 9 minutes into 25 like others on RU-vid. Thanks.

That mod to the miter saw stand is genius!

Great demo of checking and adjusting the squareness of the blade. Thanks for that tip!

Simple & exact explanation on miter box setup & care !! I've used my Dewalt miter for years & take the same steps to calibrate often. I will be looking into the "switch" outlet that fires up the shop vac when the saw is started. Thanks for the information, I'm sure it will be very helpful for anyone looking to setup a wood shop. David WoodWorking Made Simpler Ada, MI

I agree about the dust collection. I also think there is a nuanced quality of cut improvement from using good dust collection...maybe not so much from the miter saw, but with a table saw and a track saw for sure. Having an extractor pull the dust away from the cut makes an albeit small, but noticeable difference in the cut quality. I have X2 CT Midis dedicated to each my SawStop JSS and my Kapex, and a CT 26 (with the boom arm) dedicated to my MFT table. I also have CTVA20 separators for each. so I can really get 8-10x the life out of the bags.

Thanks for the Info. Received such a saw quite a while ago but couldn't ever use it due to my very limited space. Now I'm moving into a bigger place and want to use the Miter Saw as a steady tool for cutting wood as it's way easier than using a handheld circular saw or even electric jigsaw. Great ideas to adjust the saw, fence and blade. Thanks again. And greetings from Germany

I watched the dust collection video first and made your suggested changes to my saw. Now with this video you've saved me some $$$ (USD) on a stand. Sheer genius. Thank you and keep up the good works!

Great tip on the extra platform on the stand wings.

The first thing I did when I set up my saw was calibrate it. Made sure it was nice, square & true. Makes a WORLD of difference in the cuts !!

Great advice! However I use a dust mask all the time for any cutting (miter, table, circle, etc ). Lungs are not chimneys and are too important to screw around with. Perhaps you might mention about how to use stop blocks with a miter saw and avoiding kickback, and safely cutting short pieces..

I found that letting the blade come to a completel stop before raising the blade will improve your quality. I also found the WEN blades are great throw away blades ,12x80 are around $20.00 . One time use ,mine lest about 4 months and it’s toast .Great video

Awesome video for a beginner such as myself. A safety pro tips video would be great as well - especially for when cuitting small pieces of baseboard.

Great tips, tnx !!

Excellent advice all around. 👍👍

Very good tips! Nice to se you doing carpentrywoodtoolstuff again! Although not every miter saw comes with a poor blade. As you showed at the last tip (#1) which is very important.. you can benefit by cutting slow and steady to get a much finer cut with a blade with less tooth count. Of course, a fine tooth blade for finishing is always best for trim and finer woodworking.

Thank you!

I was more excited seeing your new video pop in to my feed than I was for the latest episode of masters of the air.

Thanks much!

thank you , learned alot

I have watched a lot of your videos. Great information. I haves learned so much. Thanks for doing all your videos.

Awesome video. Thanks.

great info and simple thanks

Great Content.....especially the last segment......cheers from Florida, Paul

I was so stupid about miter saws 9 minutes ago. Outstanding tips, thank you!

I use a Oshlun 60 tooth, 5 deg neg hook on my Radial arm saw, no issues with the cuts. An Avanti pro 80 tooth on my miter saw. I like those out tables you made.

Thank you.

diablo blades have always worked perfect for me. 10 years flooring always have a diablo on my table and miter saw

i have reccorended your channel to many friends

Top content! Thank you

🇦🇺 Great tips. Have a great weekend.

I knew a carpenter/cabinet maker about 20 years ago (family friend who i worked alongside occasionally) A master craftsman who passed away from something easily preventable, he was pretty open about the doctors opinion,decades of inhaling sawdust will fuck you up (he never swore though being a lay preacher,its funny cos i always held my cursing in company for that reason) Ill never forget the work he did for me when i was renovating, custom made skirting,dado and picture rails, i would struggle hard to find that quality these days.

Another beginner tip I learned as a new miter saw owner is making sure your saw is getting enough AMPERAGE. I have the same saw in the video and it is 15 Amps, a normal house outlet is 15 Amps but doesn’t provide enough current, you can even hear the saw speed degrade. I found myself having to run beefy extension cords from the kitchen to operate my saw since most kitchen outlets are 20 amp circuits.

What are your thoughts on CMT blades?

Great video! Any chance someone has a240v Vacuum switch link?😢

I love the modified miter saw stand. Did you need to buy special bolts to attach the scrap wood? Are they standard size? I'm trying to figure out if this would work with my Ryobi miter saw.

The factory blade on my makita was unusually good compared to most stock blades. Good summary. - alignment is not a one-time thing. (coming back to a saw after some time and assuming it is square is a recipe for slightly off cuts) - for #1 I thought you'd also object to allowing the blade to come back up while still spinning

What about a Bauer saw blade? Any experience with those?

What's wrong with the Diablo blades?

That order style Midi looks like it has put in work.

I learned something!

Yeah I do fine on the ground - not going to pay for a whole setup for a few trims

👍👍👍.Thank you

Good info, but I would be happier if you had added info about how to tweak the settings that you only checked in this video. Especially, what do I do if the bed of my saw is "gappy" as you put it?

Hello Sir. Im new to using a miter saw and was wondering if you can give me some advice. I have a ryobi 10" 18v sliding compound miter saw that is struggling making cuts on a 2x4 at a 45° angle. Even when making the cut slowly it has a very hard time. I even switched out the stock 40 tooth blade with a diablo 60 tooth 10 inch "combination" blade and i am still having the same problem. Am inusing the wrong blade? Is the ryobi machine just not powerful enough even though i am running it with a 18v one+ battery? I know ryobi makes the better one+ hp batteries but if power is not the issue i would rather not spend the extra money on better batteries if i am still going to have the same issue.

Thanks god bless

47 years of sucking dust on countless jobs and trying to train newbies I gotta agree with almost everything you said. I’d like to add something I’ve witnessed beginners do. Trying to align the blade perfectly with there mark and starting the saw while it’s just barely above the material when the saw torques up it pitch’s down jamming the blade hard. Also beveling the saw without sliding the fence back. Over the years I’ve tried just about every blade made and the old ham blades are an excellent value they aren’t aseptic good as a Forest ChopMaster. That being said I don’t use them for work because they’re just to dam expensive especially when some sparky or plumbers decide to use your saw for just a cut or two with some old ass 2 by material covered in dirt and full of bent nails. Sorry don’t cut when ya ruin a 200$ blade. The Oldham, CMT industrial, the Frued industrial, and Tenyru are all good blades and reasonably priced there just not as good as Forest. Who also have the greatest sharpening service ever. Thanks for the post.

I once read you can't change your end date but you can change the quality of life. Great tips

I have used oshlun and they aren't bad but I much prefer CMT orange/chrome blades. Cheap but last longer

Not all Dewalts are created equal. Wish I had checked mine like you demonstrated. The fence halves are not coplanar, and it drives me nuts. I finish a cut on a long piece, and can just feel the finish piece slide back ever so slightly. Thinking I am going to have to build a sacrificial fence that I can shim.

I have a question about furnace.....they put furnace lying down..under small house. It has cold vents next to ceiling. I live in mi. Blows cold.air mostly....

Hello Bob

Now let's talk about you getting a sacrificial fence and a zero-clearance insert to prevent tear-out on expensive hardwood trim.

I have a sliding compound miter and a pro once told me to (as you said) wait for full speed on blade, but then make a top score on the wood with the slide, then come back and finish the cut with a plunge in front and push the blade to the back. Comments?

Ahh... I didn't fully inspect my saw. But still works... woohoo!!

Damn ! i didn't know about the blade..... I did all my doors with the standard one

I watched your video on filling nail holes in wood. My contractor installed baseboards that he purchased already primed. But, of course, he left the job without filling in any of the holes…. Or miter gaps, or… so, I used the Elmers wood filler that is yellowish in color. (I didn’t know there was a white version until today, thank you for that…..) but once I have it sanded, and I am ready to paint, do I need to prime the areas that were filled even though the wood was already primed? I’m thinking yes. If I do, do I prime over just the areas that were filled or do I prime the entire baseboard? And, since they’re installed, spray primer is not as easy. Do you have a recommended primer for this application? I appreciate your advice and guidance!

great videos, New SUBSCRIBER

Is that a Bob Ross lego figure? Nice!

Just here to comment on the thumbnail. "#2 could save your life" with no further context needed . . . I agree

Would love a link to the air quality monitor too!

Diwablo 😅. Actually, I've had very good results with them.

Roller stands are less than $20 at Harbor Freight; great investment if you don't have the room for a larger stand.

Please make a detailed video about the miter saw wings you made.

Good Video all in all. Ummm, @08:32 I have to say the head needs to stay down after the cut, and trigger released! I have gotten, and am sure to get, pushback on this: Cutting dimensional lumber that way most of the time is OK. Cutting trim and smaller/ thinner boards not so much. I have used miter saws for over 25 years, and have blades catch the cut offs and fling them at 190 MPH! I have seen ‘rookies’ raising the head at the same time releasing the trigger, which is certain recipe for disaster. It doesn’t take much for that blade to ‘catch’ the material and either send it flying, or to pull or twist the material. Some will argue it’s a waste of time, but what price safety? Most of the time a person will get by with no problem, but it only takes that one time. I have watched a few Valid Carpentry/ Woodworking Channels ( I will not call them out by name ) that cut and keep the head down after the cut. I have been injured and I’ve seen others get injured, and it can happen to anyone. Please work safely. Your Channel has a lot of great and worthwhile content, and I’ve picked up some good tips from You. Please take my comment as a concern for safety. 👍

Why are we avoiding the diablos? They are pretty nice for the price.

I'd add zero clearance tape to that list.

If you're doing framing, what is wrong with putting some speed in there? Cut quality doesn't matter getting that ish done matters

Side note. The new host on “Blown Away” looks like he could be your twin brother. Every time I watch the show I think of you. lol random thpught

Mistake #6: Not checking the fence is safely withdrawn when using a tight tilt and bevel angle. Metal will fly!

Why should we avoid Diablo?

Big mistake to rely on the detents for fine work, even if you adjusted them. For whatever reason, they do not keep their set and being set to 90 does not necessarily equate to correctness on the other detent angles. I always use a protractor or other gauge (Woodpeckers has a nice one with most common angles) to set the blade for my cut. I turned to this method after having to repeatedly re-set the detents time-and-again, only to find them off at some other angle.

As a former electrician who has asked to use carpenters saws, I can say: - I have learned (read: been schooled on) how to use a saw properly. - I learned to get my "own damn saw" since "tell your boss to buy you a saw" was never going to work.

Yeah I'm not paying 218 bucks for a blade...ever... ridiculous price where a 60 dollar blade will do....just breezin through and that price stopped me in my tracks lol...I'm surprised they sell any blades at all...

Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.

The fence on my dewalt mitre saw is awful. Wish I would have realized that in time.

Crap..... I just trimmed out a whole house with the stock blade. 😳 Please don't tell..... 😂🤣

After buying a quality table saw with a miter fence, I abandoned my miter saw. I only use it for hacking up 2x4s

I still get nightmares from my brother in law using my mitre saw . It was so traumatic to watch. Him slamming the blade on the timber.

I'm surprised about tip #1, once the board is cut, you didn't released the trigger and wait for complete stop before raising the blade back up. Imagine ripping a board on the table saw; after the cut, you wouldn't pull the board back your way against the spinning blade...

😎⚒️😎⚒️😎

The first thing I do is check my straight edge is straight and my square is square.

Wheewww... Not a beginner! YA!

dont really appreciate the cut against us sparkies, SOME of us did come up from framing/carpentry, tho the PLUMBERS do fukk sht up .... A LOT

And also let the saw blade stop before rising it up.

4:20 Gap

funny c, paper patch and rubber bands (7:17) are as bad an excuse for small particulate breathing filters as slamming the blade into the cut is poor practice.: if you need air purification breathing support - get a rubber half face mask w dust cartridge do the fit test and seal on the face (your beard stops this!!) OR go home! No actual pro goes with some paper patch on their bearded face- just DIY amateurs.

Number one isn't a real rule, if you're elderly or in bad health maybe. More a reflection of your chosen fitness level that a real tip.

BTW....I just say "NO" when someone asks to use my miter saw...for anything. NO, period. Maybe I'm just a dick. But I don't care. I won't even share electricity. LMAO. Not stressing my miter saw because your compressor kicks on in the middle of my cut.

dude STOP, 1:07 anyone who makes "stop block" cuts while holding the loose off-cut, leaving the blocked off-cut to lift and kickback must shut the hell up about giving tips. Tip #1 dont listen to this guy

Mistake 6: buying a miter saw. Hardly ever use it and when I do it’s the messiest and noisiest thing in my shop

Re. calibration: I have the cheapest mitre saw I could buy at the time. I calibrated it carefully and it was great, but it drifts out of calibration really quickly. Even hooked up to a shop-vac its dust collection is terrible. When I save up enough I'll buy a nicer saw that might just hold its calibration for more than a few cuts. I had the same with a table saw; hard to calibrate and quick to drift. I thought it was me until I replaced it with a half decent version which has stayed spot on since its first set up. I completely agree with @clickster1883 - love the stand wings.

Cutting on the ground is not a mistake and neither is the dust collection, I've cut on the ground many times and learn to prop up one side with my feet it works just fine and cuts come out perfect and the dust collection is not a big deal whatsoever its just a difference with dust and less dust is not a mistake at all

Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.