I have not tried it yet myself, but I saw a method used by The Gunman to remove runs that looked interesting. He spread a thin layer of body filler around the run and used that to protect the paint beside the run. As he sanded the run, the body filler sands with it and the run comes down almost perfectly flat with the surrounding paint. Once the body filler is almost gone, you are done with the coarse grit paper and can then work down to finer grits until both the run and the body filler is gone. Then polish per normal. Looks like a neat way to go.
I exclusively use that method. It works amazing. Almost fool proofs the process. Run will be completely unnoticeable when polished with minimal effort. AND, no rub through on surrounding areas. 👍 Although we use a glazing putty,it's a bit thinner and smoother than regular filler....
Good info. I live on a gravel road, My tires Stick out past the body, I park at walmart. I guess as long as No grasshoppers or june bugs land in it, while im painting outside in the yard. It will still look dandy when it Is covered in the mud the blood and the beer. Heaven fancy stuff is way too stressful for me. But I know how to get there.I changed my mind. Thanks 👍
My goodness, I guess we rookies look at a paint job and say gorgeous without realizing how much skill goes into it. They when we try to duplicate it and we fall short. Great instructional video. Lots of actionable information. Now do one on the planishing hammer.
Many many long times ago when i painted acrylic we used silicone drops for fish eyes. Couldn't tell if it did work or not. Just recently i paint epoxy enamel from a rattle can and got one 😂, and that was after wax &greese remover. It was only a workshop tool. A dab or 2 with masking tape fixed. Yep i read the comments and they add a different train of thought. Thanks for the work you put into these videos
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with us. Very helpful in my daily work. i have been painting now for six years and your video is certainly helpful. I always leave a bit of a peel and polish the panel, rather than risk having a run. i use iwata WS400 supernova clear gun with 1.3 fluid tip. I just increase the distance from panel by about half an inch extra and it works like a treat. but hey there are days when i get some runs, so thank you for your video.
Great video! On fisheyes, I'll sometimes use clear with some kicker and put a dab in the center. It'll flowout and fill the divot. Then, sand out with a hard block.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I do have a question. I do primarily mobile work. Underpowered compressor and a TP filter. Finishes usually look great. At home, I have a professional set-up with a QC3 filter and 25ft dedicated hose for spraying. Same gun, Prolite with TE20 cap. It acts as if it's starved for air. A lot of peel and trash/fisheyes. It's been suggested that the QC3 might have a too small of an opening at the valve. I'm considering an air dryer. The beads in the filter are new. Any experience/tips? Thanks!
This was a very nice video. Have you done a video on spraying to minimize orange peel? It would be interesting to have some ideas as to how to minimize orange peel to lessen the work later.
Hey Travis can you touch on dye back in the clear. I soray in an open environment and deal with dye back all the time. I have yet to overcome it but would love to see what input you have. When i spend countless hours getting a panel totally flat, it looks wet and slick while i paint, then is looks semi gloss at best when im back in the shop the next day. Ig sux when this happens
Back when I was painting in my garage and I did not have a Paint Booth. I learned the hard lesson if you are painting in an open environment and then the doors get closed up at night before it’s done gassing off the solvents go to the ceiling and overnight they come back down and land on the car. Do you need some type of ventilation to make sure that the airflow keeps moving over the car until it is completely cured
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSthanks brother I'll get a shutter fan installed and see how it goes. I've got a direction to go in now. Before I was just guessing.
@@SteffsGarage put a fan on one side of the car blowing over the top that way nothing over the top of the car can settle back on the Paint. I hope that helps you.
Thanks for another great video! What do you sugest for undercoating? I am restoring a classic beetle and i worry about fenders and floor pans.Epoxy primer - undercoat- adhesion promoter - epoxy sealer -base and finaly clear? Is this the rignt way?
Solvent pop is caused by the reducer exiting the top layer that has dried to fast so your left with these small pin holes. Depending how bad it is. Spray wax and grease remover over it if it goes away you can sand it and reclear it. If it’s still visible and hazy you’ll have to repaint. Might be a good future video.
I only use a scotch Brite pad to scuff the clear instead of sanding solvent pop. The reason is if the pop is bad and opens up like pinholes and especially darker colors, the wetsanding sludge can get embedded into the pinholes and keeps showing up even if you re color. I scuff it, blow it off real good and re clear. Solvent pop is definitely the most unforgiving paint imperfection. All others are manageable as Sylvester is discussing.
Hey Brotherman, So after watching over 20 hours of your videos, I have questions I know you will have all the answers. I have a pickup, it is a over 20 years old Silverado and the original paint is toast. Delamination of the clear and base (white) showing the development of rust at some spots taken down to primer. My question to you, Without spending more than the value of the truck in paint, but refusing to let quality be sub-par, what would you do? I know you love the $400 a gallon epoxy primer, the $1300 Waterborne, but I can't afford that. There has to be primer, paint, and clear, that is quality or at least 90% of the quality, longevity, and durability of the cars painted with $15,000 worth of PPG or House of Colours. If the car builders in Texas can mass produce painted surfaces 20 years ago that are only failing now, I am sure it can be done today but I need someone who works in the industry to keep me from spending 6 months and thousands of dollars doing body work to make every crack, seam, joint, line, and screw is just so, to squirt $300 of shit that will only last a year before the weather and elements destroy it and I am back to square one again. I just want white.. I love white with the slightest of blue hue, I'm not wanting boatflake and 60 shades of candy for a background and a mural. What primer, paint, and clear would you use?
Once, again, your videos have improved my build, with every one. I have sprayed the base/clear (which turned out awesome, imo, thanks to you), & have started the wet sanding. I have watched this video a few times, & have a question about timing. I have a body-shop friend that told me that once I wet sand an (small ) area with my 600 grit, I should finish that area, through all the grits, & then buff (polish) it before moving to another area. I guess what I am asking, is if I sand the roof in 600 grit today, but can't get back to it with the other grits/polish for a week, is that a problem???? Thanks, in advance.
One more question about the wet sanding.....in one video (older) you said continue to wet sand with what you used in your body work (I used Linear blocks)...this one you said use Jason Kilmer's blocks (which I have the hard blocks)....which one do you recommed for my big 60 Impala? thanks.!!!@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
@@bigrigg71 since we have adopted Jason Killmers methods I have changed a lot of what we do in our process. Killmers small blocks work better in my opinion. After bodywork is nice and perfect you won’t need a long block to get it straight. Cutting it flat with 600 is the important part.
something i like to do instead of buying a new air line for painting, i like to run alot of wax and grease remover through the airline and flush it out a few times before painting rather then buying a new line. not sure if its the best thing to do but if you do it the night before and run alot of air through it i find i can get good results. im open to other ideas?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS your right actually, and specially when it comes to the quality above and beyond work you guys do I can understand the worth of just buying a new air line
Great content as usual. I make my own poly blocks but after watching your videos, I’ll start making smaller lol. Hope to meet you @SEMA 23 if you’re going.
I have never heard that 2:1 clear is better, but use what work for you, right. Question; With 5 coats of clear, do you add time for flash before next coat? In my mind, chemicals cure & cross-link during the off gas part. It does dry do to temperature, time and loss of solvents use in the product, temperature choice of reducers and time. My kid freaks out if my plans are to let it bake in the sunlight for 2-3 weeks. I will hard as a rock he says. My response is sandpaper fine rock glued to it right. I have told home about a finishing DA W/Interface pad. But he hands me my "Blue Point AT400" back that no longer works. Dude, didn't you oil this and clean 40 times outside the garage. I don't have air tool oil. Kids! I bought new hose and tagged it for paint only, desiccant, filters, the antique tool paper container, high end ball filters and new 3M suit for under $10. Bought 5. Thanks to your Travis, learning more has occurred! Thanks. 107 degrees here with high humidity. (Note; they ran 14 commercials durning this video) Have a lucky one! Still trying to wake up every morning!
Yes 2:1 clear is thicker and higher solids not high solvents like the typical 4:1 they hold up better. Also when stacking 4-5 coats of this you must extend your flash times while using the slowest reducer it keeps the clear open and allows time for it to gas off. Check out our paint video it covers every one of these steps. 👍🏻 “secrets to a perfect paint job”
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks, I will watch that video. I just have a list oh honey-do jobs that gave 40 items plus research and my out things. Their are not enough hours in a day especially when it is 107 degrees out. Crazy!
Thanks helping our on the 2:1 vs 4:1 clear. I may have simply missed it by typing. Thanks for setting me straight as I save this in a private folder! I share all with my 38 year old son on his few Monte parts!
Hi Dean. I used to think letting the clear set longer was bad too and more difficult to buff but it's just the opposite. Wetsanding at any time seems about the same but you really notice the difference with the buffer. I set my paint in the sun any chance I get. It works wonders. When I can't go outside in the winter, I use an infrared heat lamp. You have to be careful with those as they heat from the panel outward. I keep a laser thermometer with my heat lamp to monitor panel temperature every 15 to 20 minutes. But letting the paint cure as long as possible is definitely the key to easier buffing.
@@class5bodyworksSpray three coats clear "High Solids" clear. Let it dry clean and for two weeks or more. (See my friend Pete / Southwest Rod and customs) 8-12 videos back. Then wet sand after completely dry in under lights, sun and out gas completely. Once sanded to 800 grit (Ignore they others, the trick is Harbor Freight and buy the 3/16" orbital action DA) but motor guard SB-1 and fold the wet paper for light edge work. Then spray two more coats to get the "Flow Coat or Double coat. "Spray-A-way" is another to see. I done right in a clean area, no cut & buff required. I have cleared over vinyl decals, pin stripes and Pete did a black VW! Research! Best of luck buddy!
