Although this sounds like the solar would be structurally sound on the roof, what I don't understand is how anyone with a 5th wheel feels that they got an extra 800lbs ccc to spare for that amount of solar after they loaded their rig with food, bedding & clothing, dishes, outdoor gear and then the Water, in order to boon dock? Crazy but no 5er has that extra ccc, they make em with only minimal. For those that pipe in n say just beef up the suspension, ok, but how do u plan on beefing up the trailer frame? 🙄. Imo, this solar array is a nice idea for half or 1/3 its size, or for a stationary rv or home. 🍻
Did you notice that a woman was behind the motivation for this invention? She wanted air conditioning, and he wanted her to accompany him on his adventures. They say that behind a successful man is usually a woman pushing him and here is a good example.
Wow you just met me with the monument solar hat. You actually explained it better in this interview than the owner:) thanks James now I need to contact him.
Just wondering, if This system is making your overall height a little too much. What's your opinion, James? I'm wondering how much height it adds above your AC's Or whatever is the highest point on the RV? Pretty. Cool set up though.
We were in Q for the RV show too but somehow missed this company for the solar racking. Pretty cool! We like to camp to the east of the water/dump stations on one of the many side roads. We camp a lot out there but it was our 1st time during the Big Tent Show & there were soooo many people/RV's! Not so bad further south in La Posa South but North & West were a zoo.
Sorry. I don't think that this solar system proves anything but the fact that if money and weight were of no concern than you could build almost anything you wanted. A simple case that this guy while maybe very intelligent is like many inventors blinded by looking for fame and practical isn't part of his vocabulary. Probably a smart guy though.
All engineering is choosing what to compromise, what to optimize. His choices don't completely put his solution in an extreme corner of the possible envelope, but definitely pretty far toward one corner of it, versus the other corners.
I like your take@@EfficientRVer but I don't think that corner is going to be too populated and that's my point. You need to appeal to a mass market to be successful these days and in this case any RVer should be paying attention to the weight of their rig. This solution has plenty of hard work and brains behind it, just no practical use except for maybe a stationary RV. It's just too heavy when you take into account the cargo capacity left to work with.
you could have focused on installing a dual zone mini split and reduced your solar needs - I think I saw this rig in an RV park I was staying at in Florida
Surprised you didn’t mention that during hot days the way this system is set up will also help reduce heat, so your ac won’t have to work so hard. The panels create a bit of shade and you have great airflow below panels to remove any hot air. Traditional setups have a lot of trapped air, so your roof membrane is stuck absorbing all that heat.
Well WOWee. NOWww..All u need is to design a MOTORIZED version of this setup! I advise pneumatically dampened actuators to smooth out windy times operation. Setup should sense excessive wind to temporarily lower the panels, then raise when seens safe to do.
Adding to first comment..I have prototype of a solar panel/popup breezebox-type wind gen combo setup. The breezebox wind gens acually FOLD DOWN under the pnls nice & neat! So now u have better power grab'n chances in your travels!
Someone check my math: 5300 Watts @ $10/watt install is $53,000????. Now add the panels ($15k???) and the batteries ($5k) is $73,000???? Harbor Freight Predator generator is $1,200.
It very obviously includes the whole system. Nobody is paying $53,000 for a boxful of aluminum and SS brackets, custom or not. Victron stuff is not cheap. A system this size is not for anyone worried about up-front cost. It's about having all the energy you need, without every visiting a gas/propane station to keep it running, without ever touching a gas can. It eliminates energy as a thing that makes you need to go into town and spend money. In no way is a 5000W generator comparable to having 5000W of solar, but if you want to find out that running ACs every day with a generator sucks, just do the experiment like everyone else has at one point or another. There is no way I'd ever need 5280W of solar on an RV, and there's no way I'd spend $53K for it even if I did. The smaller a system that meets your needs is, the less you need something this engineered/expensive. A smaller RV uses less energy. Being willing to not have it 72F in the RV 24/7 uses less energy. Being willing to suffer a small amount 5% of the time and a fair amount 1% of the time, uses less energy. Being single and pet-free uses less energy, too! Duplicating the environment of a sticks and bricks home on the road, gets expensive and isn't always practical even if you disregard cost. Everything is a compromise. They are giving up a lot of money, a lot of weight carrying capacity, a bit of clearance height, a bit of RV life, a bit of handling, more than a bit of mpg, and probably some other stuff, just to be super comfy regarding energy usage. To each their own.
Looks like a great system for well made RVs. I question the sanity of adding such to a fifth wheel. Just two days ago I passed a fifth wheel with a balooned TPO membrane roof going down the road- looked like an evil genius cartoon character- but considering the TPO membranes are not attached properly- how would *any* bracketing system function to mount panels to a roof... it would be futile to attempt IMO. Perhaps if the TPO were removed and glued down first- or replaced with FRP instead... or perhaps the frame assembly itself would catch the balooning membranes. I know the balooning is not just a fifth wheel issue as I've also spotted at least one Class A going down I-95 with a "brain contusion" (expanded roofline) lol.
I built an "up and over" rack like this with aluminum Unistrut and panel clamps. 2420 watts in 19' of roof. I have a molded fiberglass Class C, so using stainless aviation studs and a 2 part adhesive I was able to install the entire thing with no new holes through the roof. I actually fiber glassed over some holes where I removed the old satellite dome TV antenna, so end result was less holes than when I started, and each panel comes off with 4 bolts for service. I haven't added a tilt feature yet, but that's next on the list. Its dramatically less engineered than this setup, but we've done over 6k miles coast to coast with no issues or loose hardware. If we eventually move up to a Class A I'd like to take the same approach to a 5-6kw split phase system.
@@AZExpert I really liked the Unistrut - theres a million different fittings available and its really rugged once its all together. I built my minisplit rack out of it too. The panels provide extra shade on the rig and (to my surprise) havent created much wind noise or lowered by fuel economy. Ive been pleased with it.
@AZExpert Would you be able to do a video on what to do to summer-ize your RV after winter (cold weather) storage? Also one on the best setup for towing a car with your RV? @AZExpert #AZExpert
I guess you’re a little bit behind on your videos. Myself and a few of my friends have been out here in the La Posta south since the beginning of November. Still waiting for the weather going north to warm up. Too bad we didn’t get to meet you. I did follow through on one of your videos last year and put true Toppers on my to Slide Outs of my 2000 Monaco dynasty. You must’ve drove very close to where me and my friends were camping because we were about 500 yards west of all the integrity past.
I like the idea, and I hate to be a negative nancy but if you are a full profile 5th wheel pushing 13’6”, the added height will be the first issue. RV manufacturers already build suspensions and frames to a minimum cargo weight, and a solar system of this size eats up your cargo capacity quickly. The RV manufacturers will voiding the all but worthless warranty for installing a clearly better than Z bracket mounting solution. I wish him luck for his improved idea.
Interesting.... I want solar for boon docking but was headed other directions... I only wonder about weight with the panels ... great for permanent or long term parking of RVs .. also wondering about airflow during driving...nice to see your kids traveling with you ....
I wouldn’t use Bi-facial as the shading that standard panels produce is probably more effective at keeping the rv cool than the extra solar power you would get. Then having the AC cycling increased.
I wonder how many gallons of Diesel one could burn to run a generator when needed to get to the same amount that solar system cost. It looks interesting, but a lot of extra weight on the roof and his basement storage was filled up with equipment and batteries.
That is a pretty wild solar monting system! I have learned a lot for MInute Man Prep over the years. I wish he would have shown how he actually angles the panels. Also, it seems like it adds a lot of height to the roof line. Thank you for sharing this.
Sunpower brand panels have the highest Watt / area and Watt per pound panels I know of. I would look at using those on an RV if you want to get the most power out of the small space on an RV roof.
With Bi facial you can have 1 of your rows straight up and down while other is flat while front of rv is facing south or north. If you look up bi facial solar fence those videos will describe it.
I have seen those videos and I will go on record to have very dubious thoughts about the comparison, it does not pass the smell test to me and feel the data may have been skewed for exposure and clicks.
Put higher load rating tires on, if it worries you. Not a bad idea even before you overload a vehicle. My car came with tires with load index 89 and speed rating S (112mph). I put on tires with load index 99 and speed rating T (118mph). The car rev limits at 104mph, and the stock tires were marginally OK for the rated GVWR. But adding more safety margin in case you overload, or lose some air, is smart. Much more tire wear can be avoided by increasing inflation pressure to the "max psi" on the sidewall, than the amount of tire wear created by adding a couple hundred pounds per tire of weight.
