THE BEST SIDING FOR YOUR BARN,CABIN AND WORKSHOP, BOARD AND BATTEN 

I will release a second video on this construction process detailing the process. Ger your Anchorseal here! 1 Gallon Size amzn.to/2DIAhYS 1 Quart Size amzn.to/2DKVktO

My Granddad always cut the bottom of siding boards at a 10 deg angle from the front to the back (higher in the back). He said it helped with boards rotting from rain. He said it gave an edge for the rain to drip off instead of just sitting on the end grain and soaking up the board. Worked great, as I have some barn boards from him that were put up in the 1930s with very little end rot. Just one person's perspective. Thanks for the vid....

We love board n batten siding. Same method u used except we use T1-11 strips for runners, the grooves in the T1-11 allows air to pass up and down. Great video my friend. . . and by the way, great music. 👍

... 2 years later and it still very informative and interesting to watch ... speed square guide on a work horse ... learned something new. Thanks.

Good tips on end seal, spacing for moisture and proper fastener measurements. Nice work. I enjoy seeing construction done properly.

Those clamping saw horses are great! We use one to clamp branches for draw knifing the bark off. I also use it with a C clamp in the jaws to hold my chainsaw bar so I can sharpen it on the sawhorse. I have the Triton version. Timber framers typically seal the end grain as they are cutting joinery.

Like the drone shots a lot, thanks for adding them. And also that green wood will dry and the space will let it dry better as well. Great video...

Now I've got it. Listening to you is like listening to Billy Bob Thornton, which suits me just fine!

I love your attention to details. your craftsmanship shows in everything you've done. I just found your video. This is the first I've seen, and look forward to seeing all the rest..

I am in San Diego, CA. We call the horizontal strips furring or I guess runners. Purlins hold the rafters up at about mid-point to prevent sagging or crowning.

Siding looks great! Can’t wait to see it when it’s done. Always appreciate the videos and keep up the good work!

Enjoyed the video, great tips on when to use the AnchorSeal. Nice look the board and batten siding!!

Dude!!! I work in construction. I have been doing it for over 10 years now, And I have never seen anyone do that sweet little trick using the speed square as a guide bar... Thank you Nate!!,🙏 I am going to use that all the time! Today in fact!! 😉🤟

Great explanation on your process. Thank you

good stuff. I'm still at the chainmill stage and getting real tired of humping this ol 084 around. I Enjoy learning from your videos, thank you for spending the time.

The kiln is looking awesome! I'm thinking about building one out of a shipping container once I get my shop built this spring. Another great video!

In 1980 I put shortleaf pine siding on my house.It is 8”boards with 2” batten strips,all vertical.It still looks good today.The batten strips cover all nail heads,the bottoms are angled for drip and there is no checking.One thing never mentioned that I’m so glad an old carpenter told me; turn the heart side out so if there is any cupping the center rises instead of the edge.Same for a floor,turn the heart up.I have never had a problem but have seen others who did.The batten strips are only nailed on one side away from prevailing wind.

Incsects love b and b early fall lodging for the winter ! Woodpeckers love your sidding choice all winter long and forever!

You need to stagger the screws you are driving into the 1x3 purlins or runners. The reason why is because the thickness of the screws themselves act as a wedge that will crack that 1x3 into two separate pieces if you don't stagger them. When they nail decks into 2x4 or 2x6s they stagger the nailing to prevent the possibility of turning the nails into wedges creating a stress fracture in the 2x4 pr 2x6.

I used seasoned lumber for board and baton on my cabin. I sealed the ends (latex paint) just to prevent rot and extend life.

In the part of Wiltshire I’m from the old boys called this type of building cladding Hit N Miss. we have many small buildings clad this way and it’s my favourite job maintaining it still. My 2 default barn claddings are Hit N Miss and Waney Edge. We are lucky to a have a sawmill about 8 mike away that cuts timber for us. Ive also used local French Oak to make Hit N Miss kitchen cupboards to! Bit over thetop. Love your attitude fella. Great Out Tro 👊🍀

Enjoy the videos brother ...keep them coming.

Good stuff! I have a stack of air dried red cedar I'd like to use for siding my workshop next spring. I find I always pick up a few tips or ideas from every video I watch. Cheers! Kent

I do it slows down on the drying but I use titebond glue seems for me it's done more than others. To make a piece of lumber or log perfect. Great job you're person who makes it a quality job done right......🤗👍

nicely done ... I've sided my sheds in a similar way and found it to be very solid and tight

Your videos are getting better man.....Keep at it...

Another great and very informative video.

Milling up some board and batten today buddy! Thanks for the video!

Gotta get me a set of those sawhorses. They are pretty slick.

Great video. Well done. Love that kiln my friend. Hope you are doing well.

thanks for posting, very helpful,

What's that interesting building in the background? Nice proportions.

I would seal the ends too. Yes, some would consider steps like this as overkill, but that's what separates great work from just good work.

New subscriber here. Excellent videos! You could have your own TV show. But, hey this is RU-vid, better than TV. Look forward to more.

Great video

Great video! Liked and subscribed to your channel. As others here have pointed out, the runners are called strapping or furring strips. They give you something to nail to and provide a gap between the boards and the building. This gap is called a rain screen and prevents moisture from accumulating behind the boards. Installing some wire mesh along the bottom prevents pests getting up behind the boards. A rain screen is always required, regardless of the building’s function. I would also recommend that the gap between your boards be a little bit larger in order to accommodate shrinkage and expansion but also to allow you to drive a single nail through the batten through the gap and into the furring strip behind it. This, along with a single nail in the middle of each board allows the entire assembly to move without splitting. As for the video, I was very impressed with your editing skills. I loved the quote at the beginning. I loved the aerial shots. And I even liked the outtake at the end. Keep up the great work... you’ve got yourself a new subscriber today.

Great video.

It keeps the wood from suckling up moisture and start to rot. And seals the end.

Sir your videos are the perfect cross between Texas country reporter and the woodwrights shop....you should be broadcasted on PBS

great video! Thanks for sharing,

great video, well done, love your channel,

You have yourself some beautiful property there buddy

Perlins are 2x4s used on pole barns n post style construction. Used in a horizontal direction like you did.

I imagine he winks behind those shades every time I hear crack, screw, moist..great show!

Anchorseal! The second best thing Buffalo NY has given the world.

good instruction here, thanks for the info,

hello. what do you think about installing the batten direclty on plywood, instead of using board ? It will be ok ?

Great over head shot of your property, and a great video

I was just going to suggest one nail in middle of board and one in middle of batten, but someone beat me to it. As shown boards will have a tendency to split especially if green wood like I intend to use on new winery barn.

Just love these video's

It's looking good 👍🏻

The air gap also allow wind driven moisture to escape or run out the bottom. I call the horizontal strips strapping there are also girts in walls and purlins in roofs when timber framing. the old guy Bert

What would you recommend for a preserver/ sealent on the board an baton?

Morchure. I love it.

what was the purpose of nailing a horizonal strip over the aiding. looks to me like a great place for water to lay

great advise here...thanks

GREAT VIDEO

My eyes to the same thing. Another great video.

Can you use cdx sheathing for the siding? Will it stand up to the weather if it was caulked and painted?

Great job bud! Keep the videos coming. I just finished up board and batten siding on my workshop I'm building. Used SYP since I didn't have a free source of oak logs to mill. I also used house wrap behind mine the way you did. Really you have to or over time you're going to get a little wind blown rain behind there and if you don't have a vapor barrier your OSB will turn to mush and mildew. I do have one question though. What's with the horizontal board you are nailing across the middle at the end of the video. I have a board like that across the top of my boards at the gable ends but that's just to cover the gap between those boards.

I was told to only put 1 screw in the center so as the wood shrinks it won't crack and can move. Then in a year or 2 go back and put screws on each side of the boards. What do you think? I know with my ocd I wouldn't be able to stand looking at cracks lol.

Great video . Excellent presentation . Now where do I get those sawhorses in the UK. ! Thanks for sharing .

I watched an old timer who said to just use one screw in the middle of the green boards so that you reduce cracks from shrinkage. what has been your experience?

Thanks for the video. With the wood siding exposed to the elements, how do you keep it from rotting?

Man I’ve lived and built barns and buildings in northern Kentucky most my live and I’ve never heard of Ancorseal. Thanks for the advice!

that anchor seal is great, you can go one better and trim the bottom on a 30 degree, place the long face out, and the water will drip off instead of running back under. I like the look of board and batten, but as the boards dry, a decent sized gap can open up and let bugs in. It's a lot of work, but I have been running my boards over the dado, making a 3/4 inch lap, instead of battens, a crack still opens up, but it's 3/8 instead of 3/4. looks good, gl.

However if your runners are set horizontal won’t they trap any moisture from running down and out?

Good job.

They're purlins when they are on the roof. They're girts when they are on the walls.

put one fastener down the middle of the board, crown out. then put one fastener in the middle of the batten, also crown out. batten fastener goes between the edges of the board. this allows the board to shrink/expand without splitting the board

Now this is a good video 😂

great video,

Great job April. Don't forget security system for your shop

That gap also becomes a great home for the bees or maybe a yellow jacket or wasp nest.

You should cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the boards for water drop formations to fall. Less chance of rot from the bottom

I recognize that area from the drone flyover at the end! I drive by it everyday! Is that your neck of the woods?

Do the girts, perlins, horizontal strapping have any slits in them on the side that goes against the shed for drainage or is that not needed ? Thanks and very nice looking shed !

Thank you.

nice job,

Nice video. Question: since you wrapped the building with that Tyvek type material, won't it prevent any moisture from escaping from the kiln and condensing on the inside of your wall boards? In other words will the wrap trap any escaping moisture inside the building?

A little OCD re: lining up the screws, but looks great! I will be doing that from now on too! :)

What is the voice over at the beginning from? Love some of your music choices, very shooting and appropriate.

music at 11:00 is somewhat beatlesque... nice

Would you recommend the air gap on a cabin? Enjoyed the video!

Good video...thanks

Who did the music in the end credits?

I thought the "battons" were going to be like 1x3s over each verticle gap between the boards.

I was told you're suppose to nail only one side of the boards so they don't crack when the shrink from drying. Am I missing something?

I use home made creosote to seal the ends of boards and fence posts, there is a formula on the internet for making creosote - creosote lasts forever plus a 100 yrs

I'll bet that small pocket of dead air behind the siding provides a bit of insulation value as well. Had to chuckle when you talked about the sunglasses. I thought you did pretty well the last time that you spoke into the camera. I am a work in progress as well......

out of the woods, is that strpping 4 feet a part that you are screwing the board an bat to? never seen it that way, I know you talk about this in this video but at that far spacing will that geen board not twist up an down like when you put dry wall on 24 inch center studs

Klingspor's Green wood Sealer Around 16.95 as I recall. Anchor-Seal discontinued it's affordable recipe of waxy goo but sells nowadays expensive muck for around 32.00 So, use any old latex paint setting back on your shelf in your shop, or affordable 16.95$ waxy goo, because for me, that waxy muck is too costly.

Anchor seal is expensive and generally not needed if you are using Eastern White Pine, even if it is fairly green it does not tend to check or move much.

thanks for explaining that,, I was wondering what it was then you start telling us. really odd that some 1 can read my mind

I love Johnny Cash. Thank you.

Floor wax or maybe even a wax candle on those bottom edges could probably work.. I reckon.. Definitely cut them on an angle though

In green wood board and batten siding, you should fasten the boards and battens down the center. Fastening along the edges can result in splits as the fasteners don't move while the green board does. The boards should be oriented so that any cupping will be up (away from the wall) while the battens should be oriented so that they cup down (towards the wall). This will help to "lock" the boards and battens together.

Question.....I see that you used two screws to hold the boards on each runner. I’ve heard some people say to use only one screw in the middle of each board. And the batten would hold down the edges. Thoughts?

The "best" siding ( or anything else labeled "the best") is the one that works for you. Personally, I like horizontal lap siding a WHOLE lot better than board/batten......which leaves a gap between the boards, covered with the batten EXCEPT at the bottom which leaves a great entry space for insects. Been there, done it, got tired of harboring dirt daubers and wasps, not going back. Tapered lap siding is easily made on a bandmill by simply shimming a cant ( I make mine 8" wide x however tall I can get out of a log) with a couple plywood shims. No expensive or complicated jig is required. I use a 2"x2"x5/8" plywood shim, gives me a 3/8" to 7/8" taper in an 8" wide siding. Square up the log into a cant, cock to one side by sticking a shim between the bottom of the cant and the bed rail, make a pass with the saw head. Remove the shims for the next pass, the taper switches sides. Re-shim for the 3rd pass, and so on until you run out of cant.

You can also use Titebond for end grain seal as well.