Could have faulty glow plugs or a bad injector. Just because there’s no warning light on the dash doesn’t mean there isn’t a fault. Hook up diagnostics to see if any fault codes are present.
Just watched a video where a guy done a test on the Volvo D5 glowplugs and how long you need to leave the ignition on before starting. He showed you should ignore the glowplug signal on dash going out. But instead you actually need to wait at least 20-25 seconds before turning the engine over as it takes that long for the glowplug to get to correct temperature.
I had 2 Volvos with D5. Knocking noise is from one or more injectors slowly failing. But if it's there only when below 3°C and just for few seconds it is not a big deal. When starting at this temperature becomes harder (you will notice more turns than usual before engine starts) then test all 5 and replace or refurbish the bad ones. If you continue to ignore the problem you will also get a startup on only 4 or even 3 cylinders (if lucky) when they are bad. After a minute or so engine will run normally. Eventually you can not start it up when it is to cold. My personal experience was, one bad injector, couldn't start it below 8°C. It did start when the sun came up :D
Isn't running idle until it comes to temp while cold the worst you can do to the diesel engine?. I thought it's best scrape your windows, clean mirrors, make sure everything is ready and your windscreen not foggy. Start the car, give it a moment for the oil to start circulating, a minute, maybe a few minutes. Then start driving gently. Btw I love mpg on my s60 2005 D5. Almost equals my friends Avensis 2018 1.6.
@@thiscocks dunno but I know you want an engine to heat up to operating temperature as fast as possible and idling in the cold until it gets there wears it out faster.
You should always idle for 30-60 seconds, but any more than that, and yes, you're running a cold engine for an unnecessary amount of time. It can also cause fuel dilution
I've got a P3 V70 and it has the worst demister of any car I've ever owned. When there's ice on the windscreen in the morning the interior is likely to mist up too and it takes forever to clear. The vent is only about half the width of the windscreen and it's covered in what looks like speaker mesh, rather than slats that provide directional air flow. A/C is gassed and there's no CCM faults, it's just a poor design. You would have thought as owners of Volvo when the P3 was released, Ford might have fitted there quick clear windscreen tech. Other than that the car's great 🙂
Hi, as you know, I’ve got the same car as you only 2007. I’ve recently had the cambelt done (£1100). The air con compressor (£632) as the previous owner had it disconnected so it’s air con and cooling seats didn’t work. Don’t worry, I have questioned myself as to why I had the air con done in winter but I think it helps with de-misting etc. Anyway, the other day coming down the motorway I lost power. Local garage plugged in the computer and EGR issue. Cleared the fault (plus a few others) and drives fine again although yesterday it gave a little jolt again which was how it started before. Are you aware of this as a common fault? Local garage said that it’s either the ERG or electrics to the EGR? Also, it appears we like the same other cars as per your other video. I do like the Merc E Class estate you pointed out.
Hi, my ‘07 S80 D5 has 170k miles and I have an engine power issue. Local mechanic plugged his computer in and it said EGR valve. Cleared the error and full power returned. I can’t find your video where you recommend to buy a ODB for the Volvo? Love your videos!
I thought the Scandinavians would prefer petrol cars as they are easier to start in cold temperatures? My diesel VW hates cold weather and hates starting in -0 and below…. Ps I think it sounds like an injector knock