Hello I recently resealed my stamped concrete. However, the part of the patio which is exposed to sun and rain ( not covered by the roof) , still has spots that seem like there is no sealer or less sealer than the covered patio (white areas that are not as dark as the rest). Does this mean I didn't apply enough? I was told to apply 2 coats both thin, (1 gallon per 400 square feet for the first coat and 1 gallon per 300 square feet for the second coat. The first coat I applied it with the sprayer having my wife using a roller behind me, and the second coat I applied only with the sprayer. It's been 1 month now and it shows some fade areas on the exposed to the sun/rain area of the patio. I mean, is it normal to fade? I would expect to last longer ( I used the expensive sealer Armor AR350). QUESTION: After 1 month, will it be stupid to wash this faded spots/parts of the patio and reseal them again using a roller? Or I need to power wash again and start all over again? Thanks!
we do not have any experience with Armor AR350, typically 2 coats of sealer is all that you need, although there are times when a light 3rd coat may help with high traffic/UV areas. i would be careful though because you never want to get too much sealer on the slab because it will cause it to not breathe properly. it would be a good idea to contact a rep from the manufacturer to get their advice
sealing the fire pit is up to you as it will darken the color and keep it stain resistant. normally wait 1-2 hours between coats or until the first is completely dry. Generally reseal every 4-5 years. Thanks for watching!
great video but I have a question. I usually use water-based but have used solvent a few times but each time I use it and try to backroll the roller sticks to the solvent and when you lift it up its stringy...Do you add extra Xylene to the sealer?? to make it spray easily and easier to backroll?? Thanks
D1 does not require adding any additional solvents although that may be a good idea from thicker sealers. if the sealer is stringing up while you are back rolling it, try back rolling sooner. the reason it is stringing up is that it is drying up faster than you roll it. you can seal during a cooler time of day to help this.
Loved the video will be using d1 to seal. I have to repair for crack and chips in ashlar slate brown stamped concrete around a pool. any advice on products to use for the repair. any advice would be appreciated. dyi novice
Yes, we actually have a video on specifically what you are talking about: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r7GIUvxm0vQ.html. For the cracks, if it is not structural, we prefer to just leave them alone. However, if you do want to attempt to fix them, we have a product called Sikaflex which should help you out. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/repair-prep-products/sikaflex-1a
I'm sealing stamped landscape edging... I've heard a penetrating sealer is best with longest life, but cannot find what that actually IS! Is D1 a penetrating sealant? Do you still have to spray it on if just doing concrete edging/curbing?
Thanks for the comment! Penetrating sealers are a nice option. The only problem is they won't darken the color, they just make the surface water repellent. D-One is kind of a hybrid sealer; it does from a film and darken the color, but it also has a water repellent that penetrates the surface. We would still recommend spraying it on, even if it's just edging. It'll look better and take a lot less time to apply. I'll leave some links to some of our penetrating sealers on our website so you can take a look at them. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/water-based-sealers/d-shield-5-gallons www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/water-based-sealers/decoblock
This would depend on what sealer is already on the concrete and how much is still there. D-One bonds well to some of them, but others can be problematic. The safe thing to do is remove all the old sealer first, especially if there's still quite a bit on there. If you decide to use D-One on top of a different sealer, we recommend doing a test in a small area to make sure the two sealers like each other. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!!
See if this video answers your question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zpt3gF0oRhQ.html we haven't had problems spraying the fine deco-grip out of a chapin sprayer with a .5 gpm tip. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/sealer-additives/deco-grip try adding a little less grip than you had before, hopefully this helps
Second coat is not required as long as the concrete is water repellant after the first. However on most stamped or decorative concrete situations a second coat is desired for color enhancement.
90% Saline sealer is the key…Saline in the ingredient to look for. The more saline the better the impregnator a sealer is. The the video says prep is also key.
Absolutely, D1 is great for most concrete surfaces. However, D-Shield is our #1 driveway sealer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jt-CuwtCQGE.html
@@DecoCreteTV what are the differences between D-One and D-Shield? The D-Shield video doesn’t seem to go over the differences. I know the D-Shield is water based and the D-One is solvent based.
