The BEST Way to Smooth 3d Prints

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The original video on this process! Everyone thinks they know the best way to smooth PLA 3d prints, but mine differs slightly from most. It takes a tried and true method and a bit of chemistry, but this will definitely minimize the time you spend sanding and prepping your prints for paint. Which means more time for the fun stuff!
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Опубликовано:

7 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 246

@TonyBullard 3 года назад

Wet Sanding is the secret sauce of smooth 3D prints. I've done filler primer, but never tried spot putty before. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the acetone tip!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

You bet!

@murdockpt 11 месяцев назад

in my case, the shell is very thin, and is in an almost eggshell finish, so any sort of sanding won’t work. I’d also imagine that higher detailed pieces would be a proper pain to try and smooth.

@evoFTMFW 3 года назад

Interesting technique. I discontinued use of the red tooth paste junk some time ago. I found for long term use it was too prone to cracking as it continues to shrink over time. If you have an HVLP setup I’d recommend heading over to your nearest automotive paint supply store and picking up some PCL poly primer. It’s essentially very very thinned down bondo you spray on with a gun. It stands like butter and covers beautifully and In most cases gives me a 95% complete finish after a single pass. I don’t think I’d ever use anything else ever again.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

I’ve tried poly primer but my harbor freight hvlp gun didn’t spray it very well, so I went back to the red stuff. I may just need to bite the bullet and get a good hvlp gun.

@evoFTMFW 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps This stuff has changed my life. I still have a few tubes of the red glazing putty lying around if I need to do something quick. But this is my go to for large projects. I. ended up picking up an Astro Europro with a 1.9 nozzle specifically for spraying primer. It cost me about $100 and has worked a treat. Considering what my other two guns cost this was a steal. I also found I end up using way less material than with rattle can filler primer so it’ll pay for itself eventually.

@Mavbrick 2 года назад

@@evoFTMFW Hey dude, awesome idea. Bit new to this, do you use any particular type of poly primer?

@ray24051 2 года назад

That's your problem You were using it wrong It's Not supposed to be used for large areas it's supposed to fill in layer lines or small gaps if you want to cover larger areas you have to go with a body filler.

@evoFTMFW 2 года назад

@@ray24051 no, you’re using it wrong. It isn’t intended to fill in layer lines or small gaps. It’s intended to fill pin hole sized defects in the surface. If you use it to fill layer lines it will eventually crack. Again, the stuff is junk. Use a catalyzed product.

@PropGuru702 3 года назад

Man! You never cease to amaze and improve on methods I already use. I've been trying everything that you named and then some. I literally just went out to the garage and tried this and I'm thoroughly impressed. Thanks for sharing!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

That’s awesome! Glad i could add another trick to your bag of tricks!

@lightman500 6 дней назад

I just tried this method on a printed part and results were excellent! The acetone thinned out the putty perfectly. Dried quickly and sanded easily. The filler primer did exactly how you described and after sanding (1200 grit) and applying gloss enamel, it was smooth and shinny. Thanks again for the terrific tutorial!

@VanOaksProps 6 дней назад

Glad it helped!

@captdan7876 3 года назад

I was actually looking forward to sanding my current project to try this method out… it worked out really well… I felt Like it saved a lot of time and made the print lines almost disappear. Thanks Derek! You can see the results on my full sized Vintage Figure style Star Wars blaster ;-) over in the Star Wars Room Builders

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Hell yeah!

@tstewart3034 2 года назад

Amazing results BUT glazing putty should only be used in tiny amounts, it continues to shrink up to a year. In auto body repair, its only used in areas thinner than a dime and no bigger than a stamp.

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

Good to know!

@MakerMaddox Год назад

Went into the archives for this one! Just got some teeny tiny part for my mando gauntlets and there's no way I'd make them smooth enough without using this technique. Off to get some acetone tomorrow! Thanks Vanoaks!

@blizatrex 3 года назад

A great hybrid method to get the spot putty to flow better. I also liked using the thinner as a sort of sand paper.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Yeah, it’s saved me a ton of time

@PowerChordEPS Год назад

I'm a little late but I used this technique with a recent print I had done, it works like a champion, but some bits still needed a little straight Bondo to smooth out.

@ManuFortiMcCoy 2 года назад

This helped me out so much with my Nuka Cola bottlecap I made as a Christmas present this year. Thank you so much for making these tips and tricks videos based on your experiences making things. I hope you realize how much this is improving all of our props and knowledge.

@magicmanac 3 года назад

Never would I have thought of that.

@melted776 3 года назад

Your tutorials are super helpful! I don’t think there’s anyone teaching these methods on RU-vid

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Thanks! Glad you like them.

@asmarteru 3 года назад

I've seen the spot putty but not acetone. I usually use a wood filler thinned with water. The spray filler primer has been my go-to for a few years. Wet sanding is a step I never skip. I go all the way to 600 grit for my final pass. Might have to try the putty acetone trick. My problem right now with 3D prints is the warping in the sun ... think I need to change filaments.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

The acetone trick was shown to me by another maker as a method for creating textures on their props. I figured I'd give it a go for applying spot putty and found that it was just the trick to get it fluid enough to lie down in the layer lines. Warping will always happen in the sun if you leave it out too long and it can happen quickly, as I'm sure you've noticed. I tend to lean toward a hair dryer and then a long wait before sanding to ensure the solvents have flashed off and the primer is set.

@TheRealMisterJ 2 года назад

Only 600?

@ronnetgrazer362 2 года назад

A bit late to the party, but that kind of warping might be remedied by getting rid of internal stress through annealing/curing.

@RevenantManor 3 года назад

I love the acetone / spot putty trick, and will be employing it post haste....thanks!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

You bet!

@chrishechtl8330 11 месяцев назад

I've heard and seen this technique on RU-vid a lot lately. I haven't tried it yet but I think I prefer it over the UV resin or filler primer spray. I'll have to try it with my J5 or raptor build. Oh, FYI, thank you for the pool noodle fireplace video! I tried it and it worked nicely. Everyone who sees it loves it. I posted a shaky video on my channel. It looks good with a cheap oil scent flame thing and flicker lights. :)

@factoriamarciana3757 3 года назад

A very interesting technique, and with more applications than just smoothing 3D prints. Congratulations and greetings.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Thank you!

@bobbygranito9475 6 месяцев назад

I am working on a large size Funko Superman 2ft tall and the gaps are HORRIBLE this is a HUGE help thank you!!!!!

@TheSmugglersRoom 3 года назад

Bravo man, going to try this today!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Good luck!

@lovelyliliss3369 Год назад

incredibly informative, thank you so much for making this! I'm just getting into using 3d printed parts for my cosplays and I'm definitely going to try this method

@WhiteysWickedWorkshop 3 года назад

Its amazing how everyone has a different way! I have been using CA glue to get rid of the 3D marks specially on top of round parts...(i hate that) but it seems to work well. I've been meaning to try that bondo mix. Ill try anything once. thanks for video!

@killerms2221 8 месяцев назад

I never would've thought to use acetone, gonna try that. Thanks!

@VanOaksProps 8 месяцев назад

Happy to help

@JosephGillen 3 года назад

That's awesome. I've got some detail pieces for my R2 that I've been struggling with. I'm definitely trying this.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Right on. Let me know how it goes

@jasoncarbone5553 3 года назад

Give the people what they want! Informative and detailed as always Derek.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

I try!

@tylerwebster5734 3 года назад

Awesome idea! I justed used it on my Wrecker helmet. And was able to get it smooth in about 30 minutes.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

That’s awesome!

@larrybland007 2 месяца назад

Man you sound like Casey Kasem. That’s a huge compliment great information and narration, thank you.

@VanOaksProps 2 месяца назад

Thanks for watching!

@amethystleigh4646 Год назад

this is a pretty kickass technique! i'll definitely need to give it a try for my LARP props!

@costumesforalloccasions 3 года назад

Beautiful job Derek!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Thank you very much!

@john-nutsabouttools6989 3 года назад

Good job explaining. As always enjoying your projects. Keep them coming.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Thanks 👍

@DavidWWhite1973 3 года назад

Thanks for the tip. I'm working on a pit droid right now and I can't wait to try your method. If I do, it'll be in my build video and I'll be sure to give you a shout. :)

@captdan7876 3 года назад

Definitely gonna try this out on an upcoming 3d print ;-)

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Go for it!

@vaughnrecker3959 Год назад

Thank you for sharing your great idea! Definitely trying it

@nil810 2 года назад

I highly recommend a silicone brush.

@geraltofrivia5211 3 года назад

Going to try it out. Currently building a halo EOD helmet and this will help out a lot thanks for info

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

No problem 👍

@csvega 2 года назад

Thank you for this! It has helped me so much! I am still learning how to smooth 3D prints, so thank you ^--^

@CGRTist 3 года назад

Thanks for this tip! Going to try this tonight!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Let me know how it worked for you.

@June18887 2 года назад

The result looks gorgeous!

@trytofinishsomething 3 года назад

I LOVE this idea ... I am a bit fanatical about sanding and putty and sanding and primer and sanding and did I mention sanding? I will give this a try in my next project and I will be sure to credit you!!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Awesome! Keep up the good work.

@trytofinishsomething 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps Thanks ... just tried this on a failed print and really liked it!

@salvatoreattinello3942 3 года назад

The acetone tip is a new one for me. Thanks!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

You bet!

@BlondieSL 11 месяцев назад

This is interesting. I saw a vid on using the corn starch, resin method and it looked amazing. But for some of us, we don't have any kind of UV curing box. So that method is out. I saw yours and this looks interesting. I wonder how it would look with a final coat of high gloss, metallic car paint, with that deep metallic look). That's kind of what I am after.

@VanOaksProps 11 месяцев назад

This method is based off of autobody work practices and so it should get you that screen quality look you're after.

@ROGUESQUADGARAGE Год назад

So curious,after two years, how is the finish looking? Is any of it shrunk or cracked?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

No issues whatsoever.

@jasperjanderson 3 года назад

Cool! Seems like a very convenient method!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

It's definitely a more economical method of applying the spot putty. Especially if you're not dealing with too many voids or high detail areas. Plus, I think having the acetone really helps the putty dry faster, so the wait time for reapplying is pretty quick...or at least it seems like it is.

@AvinashNair 2 года назад

It was really helpful! Subscribed!

@MrTonycervone Месяц назад

Thanks, man!

@603VIL 3 года назад

Very useful technique. Thanks for sharing. About to get my creality Cr-10 mini up and running. I'll be sure to use this technique for sure.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Right on!

@603VIL 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps I'm brand new to 3d printing and while I understand that helmets can be sliced into sections to build with smaller 3d printers, I was wondering if you might happen to know what the minimum build plate size is for full size helmets (on average). I have the creality cr-10 mini which says it has a build size of 300x220x300mm. Would this be enough to print in 1 shot? Thanks for any help on this.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

@@603VIL I'd say 400x400 to cover a range of helmets, especially if you're like me and have a large head size, but most people use 300x300 beds. Even with the 300x300 you may encounter a helmet or two that's just a bit larger that won't fit, so you're likely to have to split something at some point.

@603VIL 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps thank you. One last stupid question: Is this something that I can figure out on the slicer software? For instance, can I adjust the build space on the software to my appropriate printer size, then import the file to see if I'll need to section it out?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

There are no stupid questions here. This is definitely something you can figure out. I use Meshmixer to slice files and there’s a great video by Joel the 3d printing nerd (on RU-vid) that I found extremely helpful. As for determining whether or not something will fit, just throw it into your slicer of choice (I use Cura) and move it around until it fits - often it means turning it 45 degrees. If it doesn’t, then open it in Meshmixer and cut it into pieces

@johncradock4738 8 месяцев назад

Can you also use rubbing alcohol

@VanOaksProps 8 месяцев назад

I’ve never tried it so I can’t say.

@AndrewAHayes 14 дней назад

I tend to sand down to the plastic with the lower areas filled with putty, I take down any high areas with sandpaper before filling, Is it better to have a layer of fine sanded putty over the plastic?

@VanOaksProps 14 дней назад

I aim to have a mix of the two. Ideally you just want the filler in the low spots, but sometimes that's not possible.

@nicholasjohnson6966 День назад

Hey Brother! Off topic….what is the logo on your hat? Is it a personal design or an established company??? Just curious for personal reasons. Thanks for the vids and keep it up bud!

@VanOaksProps День назад

In this video it's the logo of a sneaker shop called Undefeated.

@lwo7736 10 месяцев назад

Thank you! This was great!

@VanOaksProps 10 месяцев назад

Glad you enjoyed it!

@lisandrocontreras6908 Год назад

i'll give it a try

@HecJ Год назад

Will the acetone degrade the pla if i use it in this way?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Nope. It flashes very quickly and has no adverse effect.

@tjhuntog 7 месяцев назад

2 in 1 primer + Filler spray can is the way.

@VanOaksProps 7 месяцев назад

That's definitely one way to do it.

@holdingboost2024 Год назад

Great idea VanOaksProps :P and thanks!

@brynrobeven 3 года назад

Ooo I love the helmet! Where did ya grab the files?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Cults3d

@ObeyWannTK6960 3 года назад

Agreed. It looked like a Battlefront Desert Rebel Trooper.

@bcerrati 11 месяцев назад

This video is UNMATCHED!!!

@VanOaksProps 11 месяцев назад

Thank you!

@xPaladinZerox50 7 месяцев назад

Hi there! Out of curiosity, in the event of not being able to obtain pure acetone for this method - would an acetone based nail polish remover work as a suitable substitute or not be considered for intended use? Thanks in advance!

@VanOaksProps 7 месяцев назад

I've never tested it, so I can't say for certain.

@Mister_E. 3 года назад

That's funny. I do the opposite... build up primer first, a few coats and the spot putty to get any area the build up primer didn't smooth over.

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Depending on the layer height I flip between both methods. I think a lot of people tend to print at lower resolution to save time and this approach really shines at .28 or more.

@Mister_E. 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps I'd have to agree. It's definitely going into my possibilities tool kit. Thanks for sharing 👍

@Cosanplayprops 2 года назад

I know someone who does this with helmets and cuts his standing time down. I plain on using this too. Many projects wasted from not using this.

@BlondieSL 11 месяцев назад

It's too bad that some inventor doesn't make a sort of all-in-one spray that would fill in between the layers and auto-level. LOL

@critical_always Год назад

Put your bush in acetone first and let the bristles well up a bit. They won't fall out as quickly.

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Good to know!

@barrybritt2210 2 года назад

just use 2 part automotive primer the one with hardener it will fill 40grit sanding scratches with 2coats

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

That requires an HVLP setup though…

@TheVas76 Год назад

What about all the grooves, nooks, and crannies that are part of the print? How do you avoid them being filled? Especially, with the filler primer? Thanks!!

@VanOaksProps Год назад

You can definitely mask those areas, but honestly, most 3d prints could use some primer (filler or regular)

@GregPackard 3 года назад

I’m going to try this...

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Let me know how it goes

@Kennyy212 Год назад

Throw a couple dabs of superglue on your brushes and no more loose/falling out bristles

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Great tip!

@loganalexander780 3 года назад

Thank you

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

You're welcome!

@georeyes5 Год назад

Really helpful bro!

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Glad you think so!

@charlesforbin6937 2 года назад

Really Great Idea.....

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

Thank you! 😊

@mhorrdrakulv171 2 года назад

Tank you for the tip, unfortunately not an easy product to find her in Italy, can you suggest an alternative product available in Europe? Thank you

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

I don’t know of any by name, but I’d search for “air dry spot putty” and hopefully you’ll find some options near you.

@db82000 2 года назад

I just use high-build plastic primer then a quicksand and enamel spray paint done

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

That definitely gets the job done, too.

@KrishinPillay 11 месяцев назад

Would the same concept work for wood filler thinned with water ?

@VanOaksProps 11 месяцев назад

It should.

@originalkingdomhearts 3 года назад

Would you happen to have some idea of how much of each you used in your mixture?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

I don’t. You want it to be like gravy, but it just takes a splash of acetone to thin out the putty.

@originalkingdomhearts 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps Okay, thank you for answering!

@michaelbarrios_ 2 года назад

with much finer details spaces you cant reach with sand paper is it worth using a dremel tool or something equivalent?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

I’d go with sanding twigs. It’s too easy to overshoot the mark with a rotary tool.

@hauntjunkies 3 года назад

Great info!

@ballisticmallard2125 Год назад

Do you know the ratio of bondo to acetone

@VanOaksProps Год назад

I go by feel/look. Start with just a small splash of acetone and add more if necessary.

@jack91522 2 года назад

What is the advantage over just several spray coats of auto filler? Time? Was just trying to understand the differences

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

Cost, dry time, ability to apply to a specific area, not an aerosol.

@nopochoclos 6 месяцев назад

What it is Bondo in other countries? is a model putty or car putty?

@VanOaksProps 6 месяцев назад

I'm not sure, but it's an air dry spot putty designed for use in automotive applications.

@nopochoclos 6 месяцев назад

Very appreciated@@VanOaksProps

@maxfilament5279 2 года назад

nice video! :) good job! 😃

@acolon0027 Год назад

Can Naile acetone be used.?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

I believe so. I think they add fragrance to it, but it should be alright.

@crushingvanessa3277 2 года назад

What do you do if you have a lot of fine details that you can't putty and sand around?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

Sandable primer (not filler primer) after sanding as best you can.

@DavidHodgesKU11 2 года назад

Get the mix thin enough then use an airbrush to apply.

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

There’s no real benefit to it since you’ll need to sand it after applied. So you can skip cleaning (and potentially ruining) your airbrush and just brush it on.

@leanonrunning 3 года назад

Would that work with petg? Thanks gor another amazing tutorial!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Not sure how petg reacts to acetone.

@apache-0verkill 2 года назад

What type of material are you printing with? Doesn't acetone melt PLA plastic? Will it melt PLA plastic?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

It’s PLA. Acetone melts ABS.

@apache-0verkill 2 года назад

@@VanOaksProps so it melts PLA. Every other youtuber says it melts PLA?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

@@apache-0verkill Acetone & acetone vapor melts ABS. Acetone mixed with spot putty does NOT melt PLA.

@maryskurt 3 года назад

Brilliant!!!!

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Thanks! Tell a friend 😀

@WraithTDK Год назад

What did you mix the solution in? My fear has been pouring that stuff into my plastic mixing cups and having them melt, or even worse, melt INTO the mixture!

@VanOaksProps Год назад

I’ve found paper coffee cups work best. You could also use glass jars.

@WraithTDK Год назад

@@VanOaksProps thanks!

@gameboy666666 Год назад

Looks great :) Can you airbrush it after with paints?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Definitely

@gameboy666666 Год назад

when your getting to the step to use the primer do you spray it, sand it and spray agin before the next sanding? I just sanded a big part with a 320 grid and want to finish on the end with a 3000 grid and spray paint it so wondering it I have to use the primer every time before the next grid. And I understand you carry on with wet sanding with the next grids?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

Not really. You can go up in grit until you’ve reached a smooth surface. Before your top color you’ll want to wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust and debris.

@VanOaksProps Год назад

The additional layers of primer are added to aid in the filling of gaps or covering the surface of the part as a base for your top coat of paint to have something to bond with. But extra is only applied if necessary.

@Camerons16 2 года назад

How do you clean the dust off after sanding

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

I use a paint brush to knock off most of it, then wipe the whole thing down with isopropyl alcohol.

@ScottFerguson16 2 года назад

Would it be alright with a .600mm filament? would I just add less acetone to make it thicker to fill cracks better or just do it multiple times?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

If you’re printing at that high of a resolution you may be able to just use a filler primer. The thinner your layer lines the less filling you’ll need to do. That said, with very thin/small layer lines you’ll want thin body filler, since thick wouldn’t get into the space between the lines that you’re trying to get rid of.

@ScottFerguson16 2 года назад

@@VanOaksProps alright, thanks.

@ReelLife97 3 года назад

Would this method work for deep printed lines or grid lines?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

It should

@skinnyhimbo5835 3 года назад

What works best in terms of making sure the 3D print doesn’t deteriorate

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

It's tough to say without knowing the application. If it's a helmet or something, you'll want to make sure that you leave it out of the sun/heat because it's plastic and prone to melting. I always like to coat the inside of my parts, where possible, with epoxy to help give it more stability. Bondo/spot putty does a good job adding rigidity to parts but isn't a guarantee that it won't warp in certain conditions.

@skinnyhimbo5835 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps mine is a replica of Madame Leota’s Headform made from PLA, I want to make sure it lasts long because I don’t think I’ll be able to replace it in the future

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

@@skinnyhimbo5835 I'd coat it in a thin layer of epoxy. That should help a lot.

@rdgd1rd 2 года назад

Does it eat to much of the layer? For example on dental models which need to be as accurate as possible will it loose some accuracy?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

It doesn’t eat anything. Acetone doesn’t melt PLA. It does, however, melt ABS.

@rdgd1rd 2 года назад

Thanks I’ll give it a try

@waqarghulam3548 2 года назад

Can I use isopropyl alcohol instead of acetone?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

I don't believe so.

@davidhooie4692 3 года назад

What grit of sandpaper do you think is best?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

I typically start with 150 - 320 - 600 - 1200(sometimes). If there's a lot of issues I may go with a 60 or 80 grit.

@jayers79 2 года назад

What grit sand paper did you use?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

120 and 220.

@exeter7414 2 года назад

What grit amount do you recommend?

@VanOaksProps 2 года назад

I start with 160 and work my way up through the finer grits.

@Craftlngo 3 года назад

isn't acetone aggressive to some kinds of 3D-Printing filament?

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

Correct. In my experience many makers use PLA filament which does not react to acetone. I need to update the description to note that point though. So thanks!

@jamesdavis625 Год назад

You're touching acetone mixed into the putty, but not wearing gloves? Is that safe?

@VanOaksProps Год назад

It’s not ideal, but acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover. So it’s relatively safe in small amounts.

@flipinjon7487 Год назад

Acetone will weaken P LA It is easier to use Is homemade cold porcelain

@VanOaksProps Год назад

The acetone flashes so quickly that I don't think that would be an issue. Also, it's important to remember that porcelain clay tents to shrink by 15-30%, which is a huge variance and would definitely impact your finished piece.

@garluis23 3 года назад

Is the acetone just to chin the putty? Or I'm missing something

@VanOaksProps 3 года назад

That’s correct. When applied straight out of the tube it tends to be thicker than you actually need it and requires more work to get it into the print lines. By thinning it you’re using less putty and getting it into the lines much easier.

@garluis23 3 года назад

@@VanOaksProps I see, I'll have to try it. Thanks, excelent content