I own something very similar. I Velcro my alarm inside my tube pannier mounted where the drink bottle points are. The pannier has a thumb print lock looped through the zipper (It's like a TSA luggage lock cost me $30.) Alarm is out of sight & it easy to access to USB charge it about every 2 months. No prying off 2 sided tape or cutting zip ties. I like a clean looking bike & my handle bar is a crowded ebike model. Thanks for your video. No price mentioned, maker or where you got it. I'm getting my wife an alarm for her bike so checking out recent reviews. 👍
@@snap_drama346 said, 1 year ago "I don't think u can replace the battery but its still worth it " The alarm unit takes (3x) AAA cells (pref alkaline or lithium) The remote control takes (1x) A27 12V battery (pref alkaline) (If you're decent at electronics, you can temporarily "adapt" and use the more available A24 12V battery instead of the A27 12V battery)
Got this on Amazon the other day works great. I glued it to my storage unit door in case anyone breaks inside will get spooked. Turned the sensitivity down a bit. And I have one on my motorcycle as well
Hi there, could you please be so kind to explain how to adjust the sensitivity and which button is it to do that? He did not go describe how to do this in the video. I would be very grateful for your help as the highest level is too loud for me needs. Thank you so much for your kind help. :)
Company updated the operators manual. As of 2023 the new one doesn't even tell you how to arm/disarm the alarm, or change the tones. Great product, awful guide. Thanks so much.
I bought mine sometime back to use in my car and I guess it's working out ok or at least till I get a better alarm for my car anyway at some point down the road. I guess it'll do for now. I'm still trying to learn it. I didn't know if it would be a good idea in a car or not, but like I said, hopefully it's only temporary. I'll say this though, it's definitely pretty loud for a little alarm ⏰🚨
So buy a decent chain lock like a Kryptonite, with the time it takes to mess with the chain (slight touch) your bicycle will be screaming like a banshee, no thief wants to attract that sort of attention.
What type of settings are people using to key bike secure? We may have ours in a community bike rack where it could receive some jiggles, so super sensitive may not work, but do want it to go off if someone tries to take bike.
I was following instructions from another video and it wasn't really helpful as yours. The alarm on this thing went off and scared the bejeezus out of me, got my heart pumping. haha
How does the alarm its self come apart to put new batteries in? It says remove screw which there isn't one. Does the top and bottom pop off or do you slide the downwards or upwards as my my friend isn't able to open it
REMOTE CONTROL BATTERY *27A 12V Alkaline* is what came with mine. The battery is an odd, VERY elongated design. I just realized after all this time...the manual doesn't ID the cell(s) required by the remote, and the battery type is one you may not be able to just run out and buy when the remote suddenly goes dead. There is no warning "bark" of a low remote battery unlike with the alarm unit itself. In a pinch, I think the more common _A23_ 12V battery will physically fit, but you will need to do some adapting of a connector end as a temporary work-around (in similar situations I've used springs, screws, etc as needed to fill the gap, but ONLY in a dire pinch for as short a time as possible). The _A23_ is SHORTER than the *A27* battery. I've seen _A23_ batteries in grocery stores, but I can't recall ever seeing an *A27* in "regular" stores. So...I've bought one as a standby. Even if the voltage drops a bit during storage it will still provide enough to keep things active until I can get a fresh battery. To replace the A27 12V battery, you remove the 4 small x-screws (philips-ish) and I recommend carefully pull off the BACK of remote with the buttons facing down. The remote's design is EXCELLENT in that there are no wires to deal with, and if various parts of it "fall apart" it easily all fits back together again with guides and alignment pins. Once you've replaced the battery, make sure the circuit board is properly aligned in the button-side of the housing and with the foil contacts of the board facing down (so the buttons will press down on them). Make sure the circuit board's silicone gasket/seal won't get "pinched" when the top and bottom case sides are put back together. (note: it doesn't seem to matter which way the silver key fob attachment "bar" is placed in the remote (rotated around the long-axis of the case) but make sure that it too is properly aligned before putting the two case parts together.) TESTS: NEW BATTERY AND RE-ASSEMBLED REMOTE I suggest testing that the remote's buttons work and light-up the LED before sealing the case because the fewer times you remove/replace the screws the less likely you are going to strip the case threads (after testing all the buttons, make sure you haven't accidentally left your bike alarm disabled). REASSEMBLY - INSTALLING THE SCREWS I *strongly* advise pressing the two case halves together with one hand and using the thumb and just 1 or 2 fingers of the other hand on the skinny SHAFT of the screwdriver (not the handle) as you tighten-down each of the 4 case screws. It is soft plastic and looks too easy to strip the threads if you over-tighten even just a bit, and applying the amount of torque available by using the larger handle makes it really easy to strip the threads. But also make sure the case halves are completely seated as you tighten the screws. This will help the silicone gasket keep out light rain/drizzle (the buttons also have a silicone backing that helps with this).
So True! I finally tossed mine... And turned to RU-vid. Do men understand these things better? I mean, They always toss the instructions in the trash, first off. :)
Chinese ! Cannot adjust the sensitivity, have tried many times. Cheap crap, u only have to touch the bike stand and alarm sounds. Kids have a laugh setting it off = effing nuisance 👎
@@frankn4424 I think the range of sensitivity is reduced and varies on some units. I bought 2 as a package deal and I can set the 1st unit to be "just sensitive enough" (3 "tones" from least sensitive tone of the scale), while the 2nd unit is too sensitive on the same tone/setting. I had to set the 2nd to the very last tone at the "least sensitive" tone of the scale to get about the same results I got with the 1st unit that was 3 tones away.
Buying a € 3000 e bike tomorrow. I'll be needing one of these since they stole my freaking bike 3 times already. Too bad the remote doesn't give you a warning when the alarm goes off though. Thanks for the tutorial!
@@KiLLJoYRU-vid Yeah, my mom already did that. I think it was 90 eur a year which is kinda cheap plus if my bike would get stolen again, I'll get a new one. So,yeah pretty cool... Also, if someone really wanna steal our bikes, they can. It doesn't really matter if you spend 100 or 300. I guess we just have to be mindful where we leave our bikes. Happy monday!
@@wolfe1970 Yeah, I know. But, bike theft here in Belgium where I live is kinda insane. Even if your bike is locked, they'll just cut the lock or put it in a van. But I'm definitely more careful now. Happy weekend! c:
After deactivating the Alarm, using the FOB. If you lay it down on It's side, WHY does the Alarm intermittently Sound Off in a completely different tone? And continue to make this Sound every 30 seconds after you push the deactivate button again and again and again and again.. How can I get my Alarm to be COMPLETELY DEACTIVATED FOR TRANSPORT INSIDE MY CAR OR TRUNK OF THE CAR..
Is it possible to activate the sirene with the remote without touching the device?? I want it just to stick it next to my front door where I have junkies coming over and just want to activate the siren in case they are around.
i dont think its exist in this device model but there is another model for same company i saw in video doing that clicking a button in remote then the alarm started blow the tone until the person stopped by pressing dis-activate
2 YEARS--BATTERY LIFE AND ANY ISSUES: I've been using two of these since about Dec2019. Both work fine/no probs. I have sensitivity set such that it takes more than a soft bump on the bikes to give the warning beep, but strong wind will result in an occasional warning beep. Both are oriented with the speaker horn facing down to help protect from rain. One is under a seat and the 2nd is under the rear carrier (has some top protection). They've both been through some very strong thunderstorms. BATTERY LIFE (3xAAA): ~8 months Energizer Maximum ALKALINE cells ~9 months Energizer Ultimate LITHIUM cells I really wanted the lithium cells to last a lot longer because I want to reduce the chance that an alkaline cell(s) will leak and damage one of the main modules. Also lithium cells cost ~2X alkaline cells. So, I'm concluding using lithium cells is not worth it, even though they don't seem to leak. So, I'll continue to use Alkaline cells as the most cost effective solution. I did know that the Ultimate Lithium cells are not optimum when powering low-current circuits, so I was somewhat expecting this result. In comparison tests, they perform much better in high-power devices which this alarm is not. I haven't had to replace the batteries in either of the handheld remote units since I first used them over 2 years ago. One remote is used daily, the other about once per week. Note: I MAY try retrofitting a RECHARGEABLE Li-ion cell and see if that works alright. If I do that, I'll try to get back to you on how it does.
OK, what this doesn't tell you is WHERE THE SOUND COMES FROM. Does the sound come out of the unit mounted on the bike, or does it come out of the remote control? I'd like the latter, but I don't think that's what's going on.
Some folks have reported success by covering the horn's emitter hole with duct tape to varying degrees. I don't know if this causes long-term damage to the horn diaphragm. I've taped over similar but DIFFERENT piezo acoustic transducers without any long-term or short-term problem. I usually end up covering only part of the emitter hole as it's sometimes barely audible when the entire emitter hole is covered...even by a single layer of cellophane tape. Doing this changes the resonance characteristics of the transducer and output can vary greatly depending on the transducer design.
What if someone accidentally triggered the alarm. And you are away in the office. Will the alarm make unnecessary noise the entire day until you get back from work?
Does you think the mounting bracket is more secure than the ones that uses zipties? I saw photos of the one you have and it is attached together by little screws.. I am wondering if thats going to be as easy to rip off as zip ties?
You know how RC cars have chips in the RC itself and the car... maybe there is a way to mod the device.... channel owner seems very knowledgable, maybe he can help.. subscribed 👌🤠
@@oldschool86er thank you for the reply. I actually paired four alarms with two remotes after lioking at another video about window alarms. it has worked flawlessly in the past almost 4months
Even though this is old comment, since there seems to be some confusion... Pairing 2 alarms with the same remote is easy to do, but the user manual instructions can be a little confusing. This is the actual text from the "manual" with my annotations for clarity USER MANUAL Section 2.2.5.2 Program (add) one more remote. Using the ALREADY PAIRED REMOTE: Press "Unlock" button once, then LONG press "Bell" button until LED goes off for long pause and then turns 'bright' After a responding beep...(if no beep then repeat above steps) Press Lock/Unlock button on 2nd remote (currently unpaired with this alarm base unit (the noisy part)) IF two beeps respond, pairing was successful and EITHER remote may be used on this alarm. 20201110 VERIFIED TO WORK (paired ebike#1 Alarm Unit with ebike#2 default remote. ebike#1 alarm now works with either remote, while I kept things so that ebike#2 Alarm Unit does NOT work with the ebike#1 remote=retain separation with 2nd remote, which is handy at times)
I started change levels and now it stop working all together the make is Kinoee it made in China but through a UK provider what bile of rubbish. I have taken batteries to reset but still will not work. Light also comes on key pad
Bought this item, but suddenly its not working. the blue light on the remote still flashes blue but the alarm isn't emitting sound when i press any of the buttons. Can anyone help?
So that's how you open the manual...amazing 🤔Had one of these for over 1 year, sensitivity 'setting' has NEVER worked always too high, kids have fun touching bike stand and setting it off. Thank you China 👎
Too bad he didn't show how to adjust the sensitivity levels. When put his finger over the remote and says 'this button' is for sensitivity," his finger could have pressed any of the two bottom buttons. It wasn't clear at all, nor are the instructions as it's obvious it was a non-native English speaker writing the instructions.
I have the same unit (well, slightly different shape but identical buttons) and the manual says: "To adjust the sensitivity level, press (locked padlock) button continuously from high to low in cycle with seven adjustable levels" Terribly written manual; when I do this, it does seem to cycle through beeps, but just seems to be two....really not sure.
@@tribzman3977 Ya, actually, I think I finally found a decent clip that shows you exactly how to do it. It worked for me! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VPOhmk8vQ8w.html
Well I was looking for instructions. Like how to turn volume down and how to change sensitivity. This video should not have come up when I searched for those instructions. So BOO!!! I already did everything dude making the video did, useless.
Utterly pointless on a bicycle as there is nowhere to hide it, a thief will just smash it with a brick. On a motorbike its better than nothing if you can hide it under the seat or something The tones you can change are only for changing the ARM tone The "Manual" is typical Chinglish and impossible to understand Also the quoted 113dB is totally false, even on the loudest setting it measures only 65db, in fact the Arm & Warn tones are louder than the full alarm siren
not pointless.. but like you said it is better than nothing. BTW you are an idiot.. 65 dB is like a loud conversation.. This thing can definitely be heard duringn a loud conversation. So either you got a defective one (which isa high possibility since it is CHINA) or you have never owned one and just have shitty speakers.