The Big 3 Direct Drives Comparison - PART 2: VRS DirectForce Pro Review and Thoughts 

CSL DD wont be anywhere near as good.

@@Simlife101 🤦‍♂️they no where near the same price range, so whats your point?

Can highly recommend the VRS :) I'm super happy with it since 6 Months and zero issues. Plug in and drive :)

@@maas7740 Thx Bro! Do you have any comparison with different DD bases?

@@m.balauszko I'm used to the SC2 Pro from a friend of mine. We can't feel any big difference with the same settings :) I think when VRS implemented the additional filters than it would be very similar.

@@maas7740 Awesome, thx!

fanatec has the CSL DD wheel coming out in a few months.

could you give an update on what the experience with the VRS has been. trying to decide on what i want to buy so would love to know

Any update with the VRS?

Following😊

Who's the bad-ass part of the rig that's a hit with all the ladies? dur dur dur dur dur SHAFT!!!

I dont have the wheelbase but the pedals are really good

So how do you like the wheel so far? Thinking of buying, but also looking at the alpha

@@fitnesschefen It's hard to find fault with it. It's plug and play and just works. The build quality is great and at my skill level I don't think I could need more. It's a part that will probably outlast me.

@@keithmgray you are right, i bought it, and its freaking awesome, just works out of the box, im not gonna upgrade again

What are your thoughts on the turn button plate? Considering getting it but have heard the paddles aren't great

@@dlugsch My button plate is an older model. It is all aluminum and not the ABS enclosure listed today. Actually I think I am one of the last aluminum bodies before the product changed. I guess at the time I got real lucky because I also got updated paddles that had just become available. I don't know if the paddles I have changed with the ABS version. The paddles have been solid and I never give them a thought. To me the Turn button box is a steal and it is a joy to race with.

Replacing a fan should be rather easy though. So you may want to consider just doing that.

"Noctua " is your friend

check out a guy on fb... called kss wheels. makes nice stuff for a reasonable amount

That’s only for one use case scenario I think in general it would be quite a bit cheaper than a fanatec dd

Yeah, that was annoying to realize, I finally did go with VRS and converted my thrustamster Ferrari wheel using the SRC conversion, later I did get a fanatec v2 usb, that came upto $576 shipping and tax included. I couldnt find anything other than Polsimer around the price range, Its very misleading none of the reviewers actually talk more about this stuff, every reviewer will conveniently focus only on the base and ignore their very expensive boutique custom wheel. Simucube reviews are very misleading if they dont include the cost of wheels that go with them. You either have very expensive CubeControl/Ascher or budget-ish Fanantec/Thrustmaster converted wheels, or small unknown companies making wheels (the last category is really leap of faith, because at small scale people cannot provide the after-purchase service).

@@arn6376 Yup, I was very close to pulling the trigger on the Fanatec, 1 cable life, has lots of cheaper wheels, mostly plug and play. However their reliability horror stores are just crazy

@@axzhor fanatec realizability I thought was pretty good?? Looking back on it would you still go with the VRS?

Your information is more than correct!! Which somewhat explains my hesitation between a ts-pc and a 10 nm dd to resume the simulation...

What about the power cable that goes from the mige motor to the control box? It doesn't have a pin out, how did you solve for that?

I understood it as 100% in VRS, Wheel force 20nm in iracing, auto calibrate strength/max force in iracing and adjust to suit from there.

This is primarily for Simucube with iRacing but the idea probably works the same with VRS as well. This is from David Tucker, a developer at iRacing with a couple of additional details I have added. It's long but clear and accurate: Feb '20 Here is my description of the iRacing force feedback settings. First off, in an ideal world we would not need any of the FFB sliders in iRacing. We would just send the raw torque signal in Nm straight from the physics to the wheel and let the wheel itself handle it all. The wheel would still need a way to turn down the force levels, both to avoid saturating the output and for user comfort. We could treat that like a stereo with a volume knob and a clipping light. Most users would figure that out in a few minutes. The world is not ideal so we have sliders. In particular the api we use to communicate with the wheel takes a unit-less value that ranges from -100% to +100%, but our physics works in Newton meters of torque. The fix there is the max force slider (click on the word "Strength" to toggle the display to "Max Force" if you don’t see it already). That sets what torque value in physics will map to 100% when sending our signal on to the wheel. You want to set this max force value to be at least as strong as your wheels output (17 Nm for SIMCUBE 2 Sport), and in addition you want it to be higher than the peak force the car will produce in ‘normal’ driving. You can find that peak force via telemetry, or by watching the F meter in sim for clipping, or you can use the Auto button in sim to work out that force. Auto works by collecting data on your driving, and over time will work out to a reasonable level of what the peak torque the car produces. Auto is the button that shows up in the F9 black box next to the FFB Force adjustment in sim, and also next to the Max Force slider in the Options menu under the Force Feedback section, and won’t show up unless you have put in a clean lap in the car. Auto has a problem in that it can work out the max force the car produces, but it does not know what the max force is that your wheel can produce. If you have a Logitech G27 it hardly matters, that can only produce 2.5 Nm of torque so all cars will produce more torque than that. On the other hand if you have a SIMCUBE 2 Ultimate set to max in the (True Drive) driver you can produce 32 Nm of torque at the rim. Pair that with a car that has a light steering and auto may only see 10 Nm of peak torque from the car. That causes a real problem, if we set 10 Nm from the sim equal to 100% force at the wheel, you will feel 32 Nm of torque when the car asked for 10 Nm giving you 3x the force of the real car, or a serious assault on your hands! To correct this flaw we have the Wheel Force slider, that is where you tell us what your wheel produces so we can stop auto from setting Max Force below that value. If your wheel is set to 100% output (in True Drive) you just set this Wheel Force slider to whatever the torque is on your wheel base. If it is set to less than 100% output (in True Drive) you can do the math to work out the correct number (so a 32 Nm wheel set to 45% output is 32*0.45 or 14.4 Nm). All that is a minimum that gives you the most fidelity at the rim without producing an unrealistically strong force. You can (and probably should) turn it down from there (set Max Force even higher) especially if you have a really strong wheel. So basically, you have two choices here, you can turn things down in the wheel firmware or in iRacing (by increasing the Max Force nm level). The higher that Max Force Nm level in relation to the other settings, the lower the wheel strength. My recommendation is to set the wheel firmware to the strongest force level you want to experience, and then tweak the feel in iRacing if that still feels too strong while driving. However, if you ONLY turn things down in iRacing then in some extreme crash we may end up sending you a signal that still requests 100% wheel force and you don’t want any nasty surprises. On top of that you should always use linear mode with a strong DD wheel. When we started iRacing there were no strong wheels and non linear allowed the humble G25 wheel to feel more alive. However it is like using bass boost on a $5,000 stereo in this case, basically a bad idea. The same goes for Damping and Min Force in iRacing, those are there to fix issues with older wheels and should be left off. In summary 1. Set your Wheel Force to your wheel's highest output "that is comfortable/acceptable to you" in True Drive and match it in iRacing using the Wheel Force slider. 2. Use Auto to set Max Force initially (after running a couple of clean laps), then turn things down from there if it is too strong (by increasing Max Force Nm, moving the slider left, as it's an inverse relationship). ----- David In my experience I temporarily turn on the Simucube clipping sound notification in True Drive and then test iRacing by selecting the "Auto" option - under Max Force in the F9 black box ("Auto" appears after a couple of clean laps). This is done to see if the direct drive has clipping while driving clean laps after selecting "Auto." If I hear any clipping alerts (which might occur in heavy turns or over large bumps), I decrease the Max Force (thereby increasing the Max Force Nm) until I no longer hear the clipping alert sound when running the same clean lap again. If, after making this adjustment, the Force Feedback is too weak, I simply bump up the True Drive "Actual Maximum Torque" by 1 or 2 Nm (by increasing Overall Strength), then match that value in the iRacing Wheel Force setting, and repeat the same process previously mentioned. I keep repeating this step until the Force Feedback feels strong enough and also doesn't clip during clean laps. At that point (as I understand it) the iRacing Max Force setting is providing full fidelity for your chosen True Drive "Actual Maximum Torque" level under normal clean lap driving conditions (with the exception of crashes). In addition, crash forces will not exceed the maximum strength set in True Drive. In my case, if clipping occurs during crashes, I don't really care as I won't miss injuring my wrist or hands. Hope that helps and thanks so much to David Tucker for that thorough earlier explanation.

No it’s normal, that’s how electric motors work when you stop them ;) SC2 gets hot as well, DD2 even has fans

The key comes with the VRS base! And this is the clamp: www.simracingcoach.com/en/contenido/quick-release-src-aluminium-black/

@@DanSuzuki many thanks 🏆

I didn't quite get the issue with the shaft. So what you are saying is the one in the link is more stable right?

Compared to both of the other 2!

Us price does not include taxes

Also on iracing if does irFFB override the VRS software?

IrFFB does not override it :) it only gets hot when I use super high force feedback

@@DanSuzuki I run my Simucube 1 osw at 100% ffb same motor and i checked after 2 hours of racing and zero heat.

run it for a few months ... you gain a lot of strength :)

@@DanSuzuki Guess I found another excercise for my training routine :)

Here's a list from a survey VRS did of popular wheels virtualracingschool.com/academy/hardware/vrs-directforce-pro-compatible-steering-wheel-options/

At least he is wearing your merch, free ad :D

@@WaskiLP Haha :D

By running this for quite some time now 😅

Where do you live? This is the website: gomezsimindustries.com/ but there are also regional distributors (SimRaceShop for EU, Demon Tweaks for UK for example)

@@DanSuzuki Thanks man, I’m in the US.

Hm, das hat RU-vid wohl so entschieden - habe keinen Game Titel angegeben 😅 Aber danke für den Hinweis :)

VRS has more torque, 20NM vs 15NM by Simagic Alpha, FFB detail shall on the same level, Simagic Alpha offers wireless wheel which powered by the base like Fanatec, the QR is just the best over all, but its price is 200€ over VRS.

damnn same question here :((

@@briandrielsma7719what was your decision? Im in the same position right now

@@samuelpastor2093 pulled the trigger with the simucube pro 2 😂 buy once cry once. More than happy! But between vrs and Simagic, I should go with VRS. I’m using the pedals and are amazing, good quality and performance 👍👍

I asked VRS & they said the control box on its own is $500

Möglicherweise 🤔🤣