The Biggest Kept Secret in Damp-Proofing (damp walls fixed in mere hours) 

Not really There is the correct way & this way

Every damp issues is different and has to be diagnosed differently, there are different types of damp and unfortunately not very many damp companies have qualified people to interpret the signs, having Dampproofer wrote on the van doesn’t make you qualified as a lot of plasterers have. You need to pass exams and do courses which cost money and time.

MAkM it really does depend on what is the cause and type of damp and one property usually has more than one. Correct diagnosis and a schedule of works is key.

@@dampsam well said si couldn't agree more !

Any time theres damp theres always a cause of water ingress and unless that cause is found and repaired no damproofing is gonna cure dont care how big the hype its a fact you wanna cure damp cure the problem first !

Or could be were a house built in lime mortar has been repointed in sand and cement. Like needs to breath and cement traps that

Tye Nawaz that’s great, the system works if done correctly and drygrip will not separate from a wall once stuck, in fact if you try pull the plasterboard off that next day the plasterboard will break and the dot will be still fixed to the masonry ( if fixed correctly)

thanks for reply. i'll try that drygrip adhesive next time a get one of those jobs.

Won’t be buying you a scrabble set for Christmas 🎄

@@dampsam 😂

@michaelbanfield7987 Lime mortar should be used on all properties whether new build or old. The property can breath with lime mortar. Alot of builders just use sand & cement mortar on top of old lime mortar without preparing thoroughly. It's all about cutting corners and getting the work finished as quickly as possible before moving on to the next job.

That is the biggest load of horse shit

@@rachelbailey-no2ppit’s absolutely shocking what they do. Seen one skill building the house is built in like and stone but rendered in sand and cement. None of them have a clue

Simon Cole thank you so much for the comments, it’s nice to know people like what we are doing and it has a small place on here. 👍

no one else does, it was even on QI rising damp dont exist

That’s great to hear, I personally think it’s a game changer and if you don’t embrace it you will be left behind

What's the safe guard method? I missed something.

Graham Orm n; n

Ian Howe thanks for your input, have you actually watched the video? The boards are held off the wall with acrylic and instastik dots, other than having bare brick you can’t get more ventilated. If you read through the comments for the videos you will see I have nothing against other re-plastering systems. This is just one of many.

Ian Howe - Old houses don't breath, it's all about permeability and evaporation, that term is quite misleading.

Ull still plaster over it and it won't be able to breathe. And the course u mentioned is three days it's a joke. The damp proofing lads most of the time come out put there prongs in ur wall and it will show its damp. Lol. The whole industry is a joke atm, really needs looking at.

@@dampsam Isn't the moisture trapped in the cavity?

The word is breathe.

See answer above 👍

I think you will find Gypsum has been around longer around 4000 years yet your against that, it’s first mentioned when the first pyramid was built at gisa. Reason I know is I did a thesis on it for my HNC. I’m not against lime plasters but they are an expensive way to cure the issues and everyone has a right to a dry property rich or poor so affordable systems have been introduced.

@@dampsam But plaster board is not curing it, it’s hiding dampness behind, these old properties need to breath, hiding the problem with boards and even heaven forbid tanking is just making the block work damp and eventually it will ruin the block/bricks/stone, modern builders are slowly killing old properties because the old methods are being forgotten or incorrectly used.

@@MrGuvEuroman keep it up mate, those cowboys are finding easy ways to patch up the issue which was solved hundreds if not thousands years ago. But it's much easier to put up a plaster board, rather than the proper plaster. Laziness, convenience and quick earnings make them proud of their temporary hacks. At the cost of the home owners unaware of the ticking bomb...

Frame it and insulate it Foil tape it then plasterboard and skim Lime has its uses but has not insulation value , hemp plaster is better if keeping the shape is priority Dot n dab should be reserved for internal walls

Thanks for your comment, No, not at all, the brick work is brushed down and then treated with a salt neutralising cream for preparation. expanding foam expands around 5-7 times so it would just push the board off. it also takes over an hour to cure. on the other hand Instastik, sticks and has hardly any expansion and also cures in 5-10 min so is quick to use. hope this helps.

Womble Robert I hope your not referring to the Holland system who take out full page adds in sunday papers? We have the knowledge of how the different types of dampness affect walls in buildings so once you have this you can just use the best system for you as a contractor or company. I try and show all the systems I use so people can grasp how they work. I watch how too videos all the time for my everyday needs so like to contribute what I know into the information bank. Glad you find them interesting. Thanks for your input. Regards Damp Sam

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW checked it out yes snake oil! Knapen tubes. Won't use. Thinking of using injection cream at 150mm in former solid back wall wc area now bedroom with lean to protecting outer side Then hack to brick wp render eg sika additive then re plaster or d & d like you did but space ltd so may re render outside too above the pavior ground level which no longer unexposed not necessary to lower.

@@robmcghie5248 yeah, you got it all sorted you two

Tahir Rana personally it’s not something I would do as the denser the material the more chance of a vapour check/barrier occurring, the plaster board allows water vapour to pass either way easier. Thanks for your question.

Rejpal Kang hi and thanks for being a supporter, Iv not come across anything close to having the grip and VFM of the drygrip. The salt neutraliser is part of the system and does help the bonding process I’m told. I use instastik but it’s in short supply at the moment so Iv order some called bond it, I’ll report on this once Iv used it . #staysafe

please do not use this system you will regret it later on.

@@dccowell56 You say this David but then you don't explain why, the blokes is trying to earn a living. Comments like yours are just irresponsible.

Richard Marshall thank you your 100% right, all I can do is put the new stuff out their, I empathise with people and know some just want to be herd so that’s why I try and answer them all, thanks for the kind words of support.

Hi, your problem will be a ventilation and insulation issue, you would need a condensation survey to identify the problem and then put together a schedule of repair, email me your address and I’ll see if I can help you. info@alldrydampproofing.com

Mark Davies hi thanks for watching, I use dry grip and insta stilk because the drygrip on its own takes about 30 mins to hold properly when the board is pressed against the wall. Instastik cures in 5-10 min. Insta has no initial substance to it tho but the drygrip does so they work in harmony. You can drill from one side of your wall if you drill to 20 mm off the far side.

Hi, the system uses small acrylic dots/dabs and instastik, its part of safeguard europes express dampproofing system and all the info is on their website. each time we use this system we use the same method.

BIG MIK3 not really sure what you mean, I would need to know more info, feel free to contact me by email dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com and give me more info

Press Volume + 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Its A product called Instastik Rc Vulcan

It can be done using 1200 x 2400 thermal plasterboards following the express damp system with instastik dots along with the Drygrip. It’s imperative that the inside air is adequately ventilated though so there is less chance of moisture forming on any cold spots.

Insulated lime plaster is vapour permeable and appropriate for a traditional solid wall building. If these are external walls be very careful about using anything like plasterboard which will effectively trap in moisture.

Yes your spot on with your comments, the system is not for below ground but can be used with natcem35 which sets in an hour. this is one of many systems out there and is ideal for small areas. you need to be a black belt at it to start doing plug sockets. you have to choose the right size plasterboard for the plaster thickness and background. Thanks for commenting and watching.

No such thing as rising damp

@@kesgreen4639 how did it get wet then I've seen damp rise up a wall many times in fact all the time.. how did it get wet.. capillary action

It’s a polyurethane foam like expanding foam but it doesn’t expand like the expanding foam does and it has waterproof adhesive qualities. There are a few on the market now, the one in the video is called instastik

We drill and inject a dpc

When you say dry wall are you referring to the system or drywall adhesive? I don’t use drywall adhesive the fixing agent is called drygrip and is waterproof.

Soveriegn only guarantee their product, the installer guarantees the work.

Hi Jeff thanks for your comments, not sure what you have been using the foam on or what method. The wall eventually dries out, foam does not bridge as it is impervious. Its like saying the sand and cement render bridges, but if you know how the transfer of moisture works you will see it doesnt. Again not sure what you use the 4x2 for either but thanks for watching.

Hi, thanks for the reply. The foam was used around a new door frame, so it was touching the external wall and the internal. I had damp patches around the frame on the wall. The 4 to 5 foot 4"x 2" stretched across the stuck plaster boards joins making sure the boards were level and not following any irregularities of the wall.

A lot of builders are using foam to stick things - but the best foam is the fireproof one or pink one! Someone commented about the foam allowing moisture through it but this is the first i have heard on this?

Neil bickerdike no, it’s a polyurethaning glue, it does expand slightly as a foam tho.

VALLEY GLEN the system works if that was the initial problem, the cream and rods a for rising damp but if you have penetrating or internal condensation issues it will still come back. Who diagnosed the problem and proposed the system you have used?

No because the water vapour coming out of the wall is at a slow rate and and is a gas

No Rocket Science Build thanks for your comment, I think you will find the polyurethane foams don’t absorb water it’s a closed cell type of insulation. Thanks for watching.

If they are blocks it won’t be rising damp, I would get a second opinion from someone competent and relevantly qualified it may save you money in the long run

I would not use the foil back boards as the wall is drying out after installation of the DPC, I’m not sure about the stick all but we use Everbuild applicators to insert the DryGrip.. I’ll have a look at it.

spiderman go , good afternoon Spidey, I suspect the problem you have maybe the mould is still growing behind the wall you put up, there could be a problem called interstitial condensation occurring where water vapour as a gas diffuses through the fabric but hits a dense material so then takes longer to carry on its journey, if the mould was not treated this may have multiplied, Dry rot also has a smell so check for leaking gutters outside and red rust coloured spore dust inside. My email is simon@alldrydampproofing.com if you need more help.

You need to get all the dry board off and membrane and have it lime plastered..Then check u have no issues with guttering or roof leaking or plastic masonry paint or if your house has lime mortar then check to see if its not re pointed with cement instead of lime check outside floor levels are below inside as well.. use a breathable paint inside and don't wallpaper...oh and lime wash outside.

Good comment Mr Johnson

Yes Mr Johnson, well said. I couldn't actually agree more. If there's damp in your bedroom then it won't be from the ground as moisture can't travel that high. The moisture is coming in another way. Get rid of your boards and get the place vapour permeable again.

Great Comment Johnny C totally agree about the cavity.

jonty jt not sure what you mean by a duplex board, foil back prob? I would think it may create a vapour check, do you use acrylic to fix them?

attermire2109 when you say residual moisture what do you mean with this? Unless the wall is below ground level there should be no ingress as any moisture coming out of the wall will be in the form of water vapour(a gas) and this just goes through the plasterboard.

John Winstanley I wouldn’t used this system below ground level unless the area has had a barrier system applied Nat Cem 35 or similar. You need Plasterers props to hold the boards in place although safeguard do a plug that goes with the system to hold the board in place. The acrylic has more initial substance and holds the board slightly off the wall, the acrylic takes over half an hour to grab whereas the instastik takes 5-10min. Once the acrylics does grab though it takes some getting off. Thanks for you support hope this helps👍

It needs to be skimmed

I would say yes it’s polyurethane adhesive , I would still use it with Drygrip adhesive though.

Daniel N it was a site survey by myself, iv done a video showing what is in my surveyors kit and also a full survey, check them out on the channel.

Colin McCurdy well if you would like to tell us why you think this on watching a video we’re all ears, I empathise with you and do respect your right to comment a sentence but it would nice to hear more. Thanks for being a super fan and you limited input.

I did a DIY job using this method in 2008 on an extension (kitchen) in Ireland made of 9-inch blocks. Also on most of the external facing mass concrete walls of the 1930s-built main house. Skimmed / hard walled after. I was always dubious about fungal growth occurring behind the dry lining but so far we've seen very little if any. However... The entire main house was since newly replastered in 2016 because the old render was letting in some moisture and now perhaps a certain amount of moisture may be trapped in the walls (?). The insulation we used may only have been 25mm or so but massive warmth improvement. And so far (2021) no extensive problems with damp seeping through or fungus or mold. There is a small area of fungal growth present on the hall stairs which is at the gable end of the house but we have yet to determine whether it's due to the insulation job or something else, perhaps a leaking main under that area or some dampness penetrating the new plaster outside. The gable end wall at the stairs was NOT done using expanding foam but was instead drilled and pinned with those insulation board nails. I did the exact same Dec 2019 on our external boiler house I built here in Dublin, 9 inch cavity blocks, damp course, plastered outside and 30mm insulation inside this time. No skim coat. Super warm, dry and nearly 18 months later there's not a sign of damp or any fungus etc I used the cheapest expanding foam for both projects. I'll keep you posted on any negative effects I see of any. Worthwhile keeping an eye on it as it's

Djt 8543 Anytime you want to sit down with me and explain your comments I’ll make time, I’ll even buy your drinks and get you a bun. You won’t though will you, trolls tend to just comment from the comfort of the keyboard. Have you commented on Peters videos? No because he won’t let you. Feel free to use mine ☝️

@@dampsam for your information you can comment on Peter ward videos! Which goes to show you haven’t learnt from a professional otherwise you wouldn’t be posting misinformation. Thanks for the invite to tea and buns but no thanks I’ve some more lime pointing to be doing!

@@soldier-Dave non of the ones Iv watched let you comment but to be fair Iv not seen them all. Happy pointing ☝️

@@soldier-Davepeter ward doesn’t show solutions just picks faults with everything he wants everyone to live like the victorians did. hes a nob

Thanks Rueben , The system is common sense if you know how moisture affects walls.

The amount of times I have had to redo slap dash work is amazing, people don't use common sense. All down to research and investigation.

I would look for any cracks in the floor or runs of water from the wall floor angle as this is a week spot. There could be a number of reasons for the water the down pipe may be one, it would be work having a drain survey done looking for any damage.

@@dampsam Excellent, thanks Simon

Without a site visit it’s hard to say, lots of systems out there but you also need to look at your ventilation

Yes sticks to all surfaces

Andrew Small hi, thanks for watching, we can work out how think The was is be using different methods and knowing the size of bricks. We dill 2/3rds of the way through to avoid coming out the other side. We are not perfect and it has happened in the past but not on this job. Most of the time you are at skirting level so it would go un noticed but on the verticals you may end up having some patching to do.

Says someone hidden behind a blind account 😂

@@dampsam He might be anonymous but he's not wrong....

What about the damp, it's still present?you just stuck something in front of it.thats like sweeping the dirt under the carpet.

The back of the slab is going to get black mould and other fungi all over it, causing even more problems down the line

Stephen Gunner hi email me and tell me more about yourself dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com I get that many made up profiles commenting which I don’t mind but could spend forever answering the same question to the same group of people. I’ll be happy to speak to you by email.

karaburmasuburb feel free to email me with your concerns over the system which is designed by safeguard who are the makers of DryZone cream, 22 years doing what? I’m curios . Why don’t you send me an email get in touch for a chat. Let me know what system you use? Let me guess is it to let the bricks breathe,? Look forward to hear why your so against this remedial work and why you torture yourself watching if you don’t agree. Thanks for being a fan.

Stephen Gunner n)

karaburmasuburb good morning and thanks for commenting, high end work sounds awsome and it’s great you don’t have to advertise. Imagine if you did though you could grow your business and scale it, but you may want to stay small. It’s interesting that you say trapping the moisture in which tells me you have some small amount of knowledge but none that relates to how Dampness travels in walls of buildings. If your free anytime I’m willing to sit down and listen to your concerns with a coffee and explain what you need to here. The offer is open to anyone who wants to comment and I’ll buy the drinks. You must have a lot of spare time looking through these video and writing comments but if you worked on your business harder you might be happier and it may grow and you might find you then need to advertise. When we have the coffee I’ll give you some tips. Have a great day

Lenny Dipp thanks for commenting, the only time moisture can be trapped is where glass is and it would need to be a sealed glass box as glass is the only material the water vapour as a gas will not travel through. The video is to shown the quick system and the cause ( of which there were more than one) has been addressed. The work was completed and guaranteed and the wall is still dry. Contact me, come have a coffee and I’ll answer anything you want on damp and how damp travel through walls of building as you seem very concerned and interested at the same time. My fave at the min is costa and we have 4 where I live. Have a fantastic week 👍

I would use renderlite or limelite

@@dampsam Cheers mate.

Yes but they would need holding in place until the adhesive cures

Hi Barry, thanks for your kind words pal. If the system is installed correct with no bridging issues you will be fine., 👍

JonnyC321 that’s a good point about cracking we use the same mesh as is used on the outside render systems, there is more chance of waterproof renders cracking when not prepped or applied correctly with thinner coats building up thicknesses. Cold bridging is another issue on solid walls not to mention the 48 hours it has to be left before it’s skimmed. I just show case the best, cleanest, quickest system out at the moment, whether people choose to use it is down to preference. It took a lot in our industry years to start using the thixotropic creams as they to thought it was which craft. Others made the money while they stayed set in their ways.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW what do you mean by thixotropic creams?

JonnyC321 that’s what all dampproofing creams are called, you may just know them by the brand names like Dryzone

waqar ahmed ch good evening, I'm not familiar with the products you have over there, the sealing paints don't really work as it's the salts from the ground and building materials that may be the issue, it could be humidity that could be causing issues to, Send me the pictures and I'll try to comment, use the contact us form on our website.

I have the volume all the way up on my iPad and even put on earbuds but can barely hear you.

Sorry JT, the vids are just done on my phone at the min and dust may have affected the mic. Apologies for the poor sound.

Sika 1a added to your Leighton Buzzard sand for rendering is standard in the uk upto 1.2 metres above ground level should use Sika in the water mix. Making sure you use the Sika correctly and not too strong and not too weak is important.

Hi Philip H, Just fit the skirting as you normally would, most joiners will stick them and pin them with the nail gun. you can fit them first if you want but after too, either way is ok.

The reply is a standard 10 Years same as all the guarantees, we use mesh across the joint. its the same mesh that is used on the joints of insulation for external render systems, there is not that movement though. the reason scrim is used on plasterboard joints on stud work is because the timber can move. Thanks for commenting and watchin.

Hsilver dale it’s on Amazon, if you email me I’ll send you a link for everything dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com 👌

I usually sbr then skim over adding a band of mesh scrim across the joint then blend in

Yes works on all masonry background s

Hi Scott, I would go on the Property Care Website PCA and do a postcode search for your nearest competent remedial company and ask them to send out a survey to have a look. the black mould would indicate an internal insulation and ventilation issue. The red dust spores may be a bit more serious and could be a sign of dry rot. This year we have had more outbreaks than usual due to the humid conditions over the summer. Hope this helps.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thankyou very much for your reply simon

Sounds like whoever rendered your exterior walls didn't waterproof the mix properly. Make sure the rooms are well ventilated, look up PIV on the internet. The use of thermaline boards will help reduce damp on your walls. Also look at installing a localised heat recovery unit in the room. This recirculates the air keeping it clean and moving without heat loss. Vent Axia HR25 Heat Recovery Unit.

Porthcawl Tag Rugby thanks for your advice that is again wright and wrong, you have basically just guest a system with things you have heard of and probably used and this is a prime example of why we actually go to the job to survey it first, you mention external render for some reason and tanking the wall. We are working on an internal party wall of a terrace house and although we love PIV units and alternating fans the system we used was a fraction of the cost of them. Email us with another guess if you like.

It’s a timber floor brains 🧠

Well the metal track and board is thicker so you would need to do the full wall as it will not blend in with the existing. It would also take longer to do time wise and be more expensive. It would be another option if you fit it independently though.

Hello Katie c If you do a postcode search on the PCA website you will find your nearest competent damp-proof and remedial company that are members and will give you advise on seeing the property. you could email us via the contact us form on our websire if you want us to come out.

What this guy is doing is crazy.you always keep plaster slabs 20mm up from ground level.this stops any damp on floors from rising. Drywall slabs do not stop damp they only cover it .Damp creates a fungus which is very bad for one's health. If u have damp penetrating from the outside you can treat walls with Sika or similar clear damp proofed. If you have to extend existing external insulation measure thickness of existing insulation ,cut new insulation to size and fix to wall with steel slab fixings. Check render and match new work. F. N

Frank Nally well spotted I can see you know your stuff, what you might not see is its a timber floor with a cellar below, and it's an internal dividing wall, hope this helps, oh and water vapour as a gas will travel through the fabric until all the dampness has evaporated from the wall after the installation of the damp proof course. I hope this helps you.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW - Hi Just a query how can you conclude rising damp if there is suspended floor and a cellar beneath? Typically rising damp will only travel approx. 1m in height from solid ground. The damp below timber floor should have dispersed within void of cellar.

the wall had a few issues going on with penetrating and rising damp near the front door with some bridging issues. there was a gap in the flooring that was also allowing cold damp air to bridge from the cellar. Again sorry for the poor sound quality these videos were made off the cuff and are not professionally made. they are impulsive but we are a professional company and know about damp issues.

Hi Pete, That's a great comment and you obviously know a bit about damp work. what you might not be able to see in the video is that it is a timber floor and there is a cellar below. the acrylic and foam are also waterproof, and the board is not touching the masonry. Hope this explains the system to you a bit.

Yes thanks for clarifying. I noticed on another video after i posted, that you made an air break . know the foam ,good stuff.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW if there is a cellar bellow I wouldn't imagine it to be a rising damp issue. What chemical damp course do you use as I have not ever seen one that will guarantee a party wall.

We have insurance-backed and our own guarantees, the customer chooses which they want. every damp company I know in the PCA will guarantee all their work because they are confident it works. these are tried and tested method to manage damp issues.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I have used lots of difference chemical dpc and never seen one guarantee a party wall unless both sides were treated as you cannot know what is on the other side of the wall.

i do , & saved £££££sss

I agree go buy the book and read it then weigh up which option you want to use, the most expensive time labouring method or a fast cost effective method. 🤔

@@dampsam its not cost effective for a property owner in the long run is it though , all jokes aside ? the whole damp proof industry is a fraud , nowhere in the world has a damp proof industry other than the uk , the dutch for example even have houses built on water & theres no damp proof industry because it basically doesnt exist , new york doesnt either & thats been built on marsh land , damp is damp after all , this isnt a dig post either

It all depends on what the cause of the damp is. You need to know the cause. There are different types of damp that affect walls of buildings and each is a different system of repair. It’s a bit like trying to treat a sore throat by putting a plaster on your neck. It’s the wrong thing to do.

Magician2905 thanks for the great feed back, I use the drygrip because if you ease it up to the wall it’s substance holds the board off the wall slightly and has an iron like grip once set. The instastik is so you can move on to the next board in 5-10 min as it cures fairly quick. I have used other acrylics before and they do seem thinner and don’t have that grab. Hope this helps 😉

Hello Ian thanks for your interest, with the acrylic supplied by Safeguard as part of the dryzone express damp system i found that just using the acrylic for fixing was not working. the acrylic takes too long to set and will push back off when the salt neutralising cream has been applied. I had a think and my creative brain came up with this system using the instastik. the instastik cures in 5-10 mins and bonds the plasterboard to the substrate and other elements. it has slight expansion hence holding the board in place with the props, you can leave a slight gap to counter any bridging and give further adhesion, 1 can is around a tenner now but when i first started using it we paid £3 its getting popular. it also does not absorb moisture. if you add up the cost of the materials its the cheapest fastest quickest system on the market. its all about installing the DPC then isolating the board from the wall until the masonry dries out which can take up to a year depending on the moisture and make up of the fabric. hope this helps thanks for watching.

Thanks for the reply Simon. So the drygrip has strong adhesion but is slow to set and the instastick is quick setting but not as strong to bond? Therefore the instastick's purpose is to hold the boards in place while the drygrip slowly sets to give the final and more permanent finish? Is that it? This is my first attempt at using the express system. I did my csrt over 12 years ago but have only used the render system a few times, as I only do damp proofing on my own properties. Hence the questions!! Cheers, Ian.

Ian Gr the instastik does have a strong bond but when it is first sprayed ther is no substance to it, the acrylic dots have the substance so just ease the board up to them, Best thing to do is buy 2 6x3 plasterboards and cut them into 8 pieces, then have a trial sticking them together and get a feel for the products and see the strengths when left.

Luke Roberts thank you for the great feedback. Both systems work when done correctly by a competent technician. My preference would be from a fitting point of view so maybe not relevant to you, I would prefer the fastest system as they both come in at around the same price,so time is a valuable commodity and I can spend quality time with the family with the time I save. For the customer as long as the job is dry and looks good when finished that should be the priority. I never specify one particular system unless a customer asks for it and then that may come at a premium. Our survey and quotes just say replastering in accordance with BS6576 which states a salt neutralising plaster must be used after installation of the new damp proof course. Hope this helps

What a load of rubbish! You both need a few lessons from Peter ward Rising damp is nonsense!! It’s condensation!

@@adventureswiththelittleone493 Spot on 👏👏. All these Wally Rising Damp Men

paul muller try the manufactures registered user course first so eithe Safeguard, Soveriegn, John Newton, Wykomol, and start with these before going on the PCA website where they do lots of remedial related courses

Hello Doug, Membrane is great if done right but not as quick as safeguards System, A lot of contractors don't put the membrane on correctly, if it is a solid floor a channel should be cut to sit in the membrane then a fillet added. You have added problems with the thickness, the do do a 5mm thick membrane but the the 9.5mm board takes it to 14.5 and you need 3mm finish making 17mm, I would hack the plaster off then make the call which system to go with. Membrane needs sealing tape, plugs, drill bits, drill, and other fixing stuff, I think you can't beat safegurds fast System if you install it right. Check out our website for free ebooks on damp and basement conversion.

j baker what do you use to fix the board to the wall? When you say duplex board do you mean foil backed ones?

@@dampsam hi yes foil back using foam or silo

j baker yes it’s damp principle but damp doesn’t soak into the board the water vapour passes through as a gas, it will go through the foil but at a slower rate, Only thing I would say is make sure you put a salt neutraliser on the brickwork

Yes works on all masonry, not sure what you mean about a space segment

I can’t really comment without seeing the job and getting more information.

Don’t really understand this Stephen iv no context , not sure if your on about the video or the system in general

@@dampsamsorry wasting your time. I'll try again! I was just trying to explain what I thought the history of the problem/task I've be asked to sort. My question is can you see a reason why I can't use tile foam board rather than plasterboard as I'm covering with treated beadboard mdf as paneling. Only doing removing area above the waterproof rendered! The rendered area which at the bottom 1m² in size . As above they have used bonding and is 25% moisture. And think i best remove and replace in a similar way you in the chip. I've be asked simply to cover with panelling which will just rot if I don't improve and replace the sodden old bonding first. As the moisture will be still in the wall. Is that any clearer! 🙏

voodoo audio thank you for bringing up the question of the party wall agreement. our terms and conditions cover this for damp works. The customer has to notify the neighbours that there may be some loud noise and drilling. Legally you only need the agreement if you are installing steelwork into the wall, working on the footings (underpinning) or taking out all or part of a chimney. drilling holes may come under this if you go through into the other side, but we don't. thanks for watching the videos and your input. feel free to contact me via our website to discuss any matter your confused about sir.

OMG! Someone who really knows about something! I'm NOT ALONE after all! Well said, voodoo audio. Yay! :-P

Rhothgar Den Viking it’s interesting hearing what you say and I respect your right to an opinion, the party wall act over heat covers major works such as removing part of the chimney, underpinning and installing stealwork, Any of the above has to be sent in writing and they have 14 days to reply, Drilling and injecting dampproofing the notifications has to be done by our customers. Iv had some great apprentices and they have gone on to work for themselves, I always try and look for the positive of our education system, the ones that don’t do well tend to work harder to prove a point.

How is the moisture going to rise an evaporate out you have just created a seal half way up the wall with all that adhesive you sprayed in the plasterboard joints

Thanks for your input really appreciate you watching. Have a read how damp evaporates from a wall and you will see filling the joints don’t matter.

I imaging you didn’t used the system I used, Drygrip is waterproof you probably used drywall .

Well that’s not good practice but if it works for you and your happy with it then fine.

@@dampsam It adds another layer of protection behind the drywall, and cheaper than these vapour boards. I know it's probably not necessary if the injection course does it's job. I'm fixing up my own property at the minute, few damp patches here and there and with it being 100 plus year old I'm using plastering mesh for all my skimming on brick walls Enjoy your videos, very educational 👍 Every day's a school day .

Porthcawl Tag Rugby thanks for your view which is right on one hand and wrong on the other, 1 the board is on a Timber floor so it’s not bridging. 2 an insulated board would be too thick but can be used in some circumstances, 3 it’s not my system it’s Safeguard Chemicals 4 email us if you want to ask any questions.

Fair comment although being in the trade myself have had problems with party walls with damp appearing oddly enough about 1 metre up from ground floor level in a line running the length of the property. I understand that there is no miracle cure we try to do our best at all times. I would have though hacked all the wall off as the top half will probably blow with hollow spots and cracks soon to follow. Good luck with the product.

good comment

1m is about the max damp will travel up the wall (assuming true rising damp). Water is too heavy/gravity/etc. to go any higher. That's why you often see white lines on brickwork where the damp has evaporated and left the soluble salts behind (efflorescence)... If a wall has a damp problem higher up then it's either condensation (waaaaay more common than people believe) or penetrating from somewhere (cracked joints/leaky roof/flashing/etc.). Cheers.

Hi, what i was trying to explain is that in almost all circumstances when render is hacked off half way, the top half has almost certainly been subjected to trauma from the very action of it being taken off. Unless it falls off because it has blown, then it should have all come off anyhow. This is a practice people do when trying to keep the cost down. Cracks will certainly always appear over time especially along the edge the joints meet due to different expansion rates, no matter how much scrim you use.

Yes, you wouldn’t put salt neutraliser on the wall though

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks bud. I planned to just board the wall floor to ceiling to save on prep but the 1m high of tanking is of course sitting a good few mm back from the the top half of the wall...Any tips on dabbing to the tanking should I try put extra foam or try build it out with sand and cement before I stick it with foam? . Cheers again 👍v

If you search for plasterers props or builders props they should appear, tool station sell them

Major League Gamer good Morning, yes I’m aware of Sika products and this particular one. Some are brilliant for waterproofing and are one of the more expensive brands. Why are you using this? Is the wall below ground level? This is a polymodified slurry used in waterproofing/tankin. I am not a fan of brushing this directly onto brickwork because people never prepare the background correctly. You do know before applying this product they recommend you take out all the joints and re point the wall first, as well as brushing the surface with a wire brush to clear all debris. They also say any paint to be removed and in some cases scabbling or pressure wash the wall, The way we use the slurry is to render the wall first and then apply 2 coats of this to the render. We also have a compressor to spray on the slurry. There is a product called NatCem 35 which is a pre mixed render and this by passes the need to use the slurry as it is waterproof and sets in an hour. They use this in the tube in London for repairs. Hope this helps have a great Sunday

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I am using this to stop moister coming through from the cavity as I’m sure there is debris is there from when when brick work was originally done, it is just a precaution, I am also applying a cream dpc in case it is rising from the bottom

I hear what your saying about lime plasters and they do have a place for some properties. We are showing this system so people know about it and can make their own choice of backing to be applied. I’m not saying every job has to be done this way, only giving people another option. Iv used every single system on the market down the years and I’m glad this has come out.