My Selkirk is great. Edge retention is good, handles well, sheath fits perfectly. Strikes a steel perfectly using the choil as advised. Guess it lacks consistency but I bagged a great one for the money.
Thanks for review! Got this knife given to me for a gift last year and I used it on a few camp trips to Joshua Tree and the desert. My scales moved the first time also...my husband ground down the 3 screws with a rotary tool(took 5 minutes) and that did the trick. Also after watching the promo video of the selkirk from buck ...they showed the small grove/choil was used to strike the fire steel! Weird...but it works!! Budget / entry camp blade at best..but I've still had fun with it.
Pete, I have to point out, it's not a survival knife unless is cuts the head off a monster brown snake or stabs a hungry 20 foot saltwater croc to death. Can you please demonstrate in your next survival knife review :-)
Those who use a knife to routinely baton wood while camping or testing knives are not true woodsman and apparently flunking scouting ! ( Too much time in the tent with the scout master maybe?) Get a hatchet and learn how to use it! You knife edge should be carefully guarded so it will be useful when needed for fine work!!!
You must have gotten a bad knife! I've used that same knife for splitting wood, starting fires, I even gutted a whitetail with it! It's not great for that from how big it is, but it split the rib cage and was even cut against bones and didn't lose the razor edge I put on it at all!
Knife fans look down on 420 because they know nothing. Although Taiwanese 420 is quite a bit better than Chinese 420 I tried, for whatever reason... Tawanese 420 on old United Cutlery is the best I have ever seen, and I owned $2k RJ Martins in s30V that were not even 1/10th as good as the cheap UC "junk"... Never assume customs are great, and always assume CPM steel are awful.
I think that little groove on the blade is what you use to strike the rod. Besides that it's cheaply made from China Buck should have kept production for this knife in America. If Gerber could produce the affordable Strongarm and prodige in America Buck could've produced the Selkirk in America to assure the quality
Screws aren't meant to be tightened before shipping overseas, temperature reasons. why don't people tighten them straight out the box? common practice. The rod comes with a cord, you can fix it to your sheath.
did you try using it upside down for a few hours and see if the handle scales would migrate back home? That's an old knife scale resetting trick the pioneers used.
I normally don't respond on stuff, but I will say this knife is way better than ya say it is . I am a professional hunting guide in Canada and I was skeptical at first when I got it as u say made in China but I have used many knives in my time . Any knife is a survival knife and depends on how ya use it . The blade holds a good edge and great for skining easy to sharpen I have used on moose to trapping and it didn't let me down compared to my high end knives ( condor or esee) but they are also 10x more expensive the flint works awesome u are running it on spine of knife but it works best on finger Grove. The sheath is great and can be configured either for a right had or left handed person and if ur on a budget I would recommend this knife it is comfortable in the hand in my opinion and I am sorry but it pisses me off when ppl do reviews on stuff that they say it's not good I don't know if ya spent time in bush but I have for weeks and I find alot or weekend warriors try to push people to expensive stuff when they don't really even know them selves!!! In my opinion when shit hits the fan you can survive if you know how to use stuff properly and practice with what ya have !! As for for this knife it's not the best on the market but like I said I spent weeks in the wilderness with it and I would not worry if I was in survival situation with it one bit . But also I don't go into woods with out a axe either so i wouldn't be chopping wood with it . But sorry man I don't mean to call ya out and and I am not also sponsored to get to play with stuff it be nice if i was . But don't down grade stuff by doing stuff at home . And m9st of all don't say how shitty it is until u really need it . And most importantly my dad always said only a poor mechanic blames his tools
@emmy lite I'm not talking 'super' steels. I didn't mean to infer that. Bohler N695 isn't 'elite' steel and is very close to 440 (IIRC), but it holds a stronger edge and is easy to retain that edge with a strop, rather than having to 'steel' it.
@@BradGryphonn Buck has special runs for their Buck of the Month that use premium steels. They have two series now, the Heritage made with D2, and the Pro which is S35VN.
Can't say about the one you have but mine has been great and I have not had the handle problem. My spine is sharp but that wasn't what buck intended to be used to strike the Ferrell rods any way; your spouce to use that rounded portion at the end of the blade; they did this to lesson the chance of someone cutting themselves idk I use the back of the spine. Can't comment on the sheath making marks as I don't really care about these things and never looked. But hey that's what makes it so great different opinions makes for more options.
Good review. One thing is to strike the rod there is the groove on the back of the blade that is where you strike your magnesium rod. It’s not on the spine. Good review.
Really and truly, there are so many choices. What I look for in a knife is something that I can use as a tool if I spent $100 on a knife I really don't want to use it. Especially if I'm going to beat and bang on something. I have some nice knives, and if I need them they're there but for everyday use the cheapest way to go because you don't care about it if you mess it up
I like the look of the knife and I already have many Buck knives at home. Some are hunting knives, and a few are survival knives and I have both the fixed blade, and folding knives and a few are Bucks. I just purchased the model 119 this year and already had another fixed blade Buck which I had for over 35 years. I had another 119 before the one I purchased this year and gave it to my grandfather who loved it just after I purchased it. The problem with the new knife is that it is made in China even though they have the Buck name on it, and have a fire steel with it.
I think I would take the scales off and epoxy them on with the screws to hold them until dry. If the scales were epoxyed on you could remove the last screw closest to the but and drill it out for a lanyard hole. I think I would drill it out large enough for a tube type rivet. It would be nice.
I agree that it is a camp knife. I never thought it was more. I already have larger survival knives but settled on a Mora Garberg for (survival) camp use. But I got the Garberg with the leather sheath and instantly swapped it for the one that came with the Buck. Now all is right with the world. I chose the Selkirk because I like the handle and the blade, and I like Bucks! Even some of the Chinese ones are great. (I have more than 15 Bucks.) And I got it on sale so it was a no-brainer. But I haven't used it much.
@@garymitchell5899 No, I'm Canadian! Are you saying that a Garberg or Selkirk are in one category or the other? I would not use a leather sheath with either. Not that it matters.
Let me say often I am very contrary to the Experts . But I thoroughly agree with your assessment I dig your music and I pretty much like the presentation .Here's the thing though it's always my experience that survival knife is the knife that you happen to have when you come up upon a survival situation . eastways it's been that way for me you can't go everywhere with a Kukri on your side and Mark II this little Buck I received as a gift . My Navy issue K- bar was stolen that was the one that I carried all over all the time for lack of a little knife like This one . I didn't know it was a import . But I did notice that the Scale's we're not a smooth fit mine especially along the Top of the Handle I Just used sandpaper Down to Emory cloth . It's as smooth as Cocobolo now . I would not own a phenolic handle Buck Thank you for your presentation
Handle Scales were loose on mine as well but was able to tighten them with no gaps and my Spine came 90” Degrees but the choil throws sparks like a champ like you said it’s not the Best Blade or the Worst it’s the type of knife if u get it on sale or as a gift ( like I did ) you just go with it and it will get the job done if you know how to maneuver a bush knife 🔪 ... Good Honest Review though except it will throw sparks ;(:;; Spook
Selkirk is great looking and I like the sheath design too. I always pick one off tne shelf at stores that sell these, but I never pull the trigger. I thought it was an integral at first! I'll be buying a Spyderco Zoomer instead of Buck Selkirk. I'm mad I missed the boat on Phil Wilson Southfork
in my own review I had to do about 2 hours of work on it to make it workable for me...it seems it was made by a good crew of people with very little actual survival/bushcraft knife experience, which is strange considering buck has made knives for a while.
Spyderco has a new budget fixed blade coming out in the same category as this, it's in 8cr13mov but I don't mind that in this type of knife, $33 with a leather sheath, in the looks department it's awesome. It's the bow river knife.
No, it won't be in the same category as this Buck at all. The Bow River has a very thin blade for light work. It's in the same category as the "bird & trout" kind of knives. It's for cleaning small game and fish and using it in the camp kitchen. If you think you'll be able to do hard work (baton, etc.) with the Bow River, you're sorely mistaken. Just look at the weight difference. Buck Selkirk = 7.6 oz Spyderco Bow River = 3.9 oz
@ EDnaut it won't have a steel upgrade since the Bow River is being made in China. Spyderco cannot get better steels into those factories. Maybe it can get upgraded to BD1, but that's about it. Now, if they make it somewhere else, they can change the steel... but it'll be way more expensive. And Sal already said the expensive Phil Wilson fixed blades aren't selling well. So 8cr13 is probably all we're going to get.
I've got the garbage strong arm, and I've got the small Selkirk. The small Selkirk knife is better for small jobs where as the strong arm is more utilitarian and bigger. It seems like the strong arm is more of a combat utility knife whereas the buck Selkirk is more of a craft knife just saying
Most Negativ points are user failures. ITs almost impossible too loose the rod if clipped correctly, also the groove in the knife is for using it, thats a common thing on knifes what let me assume you have not that of a clue about knifes. The Handle is fixed in seconds, mine have come like this to, just thighten the screws al litte and it will hold perfektly for ever. Steel is the same as most Buck knifes and its realy not bad, it deos not rust, is a little soft what is not a always a bad thing because it prevents the blade from breaking and still can be sharpened to a razor. The other negativ points are subjectiv or unprofessionel. In a lot of long term tests the knife holds realy well agaist some knifes that are double the price.
It's a knife, not a saw or a hatchet. It also seems like if a knife doesn't cost a fortune it's considered inferior right off the bat by the knife snob gang. Come on back down to earth with the rest of us.
Thank you for the review. Quick question for you, Have you tried removing the handle scales? you could epoxy them back in there proper position/alignment. : )Tyler
I see your BDZ1 got the crappy work sharp scar like mine does....I was kinda bummed with that LOL. That's what I get for being lazy to get a convex going on her, normally I do it by hand. I love the bdz1 good stuff, the more I use it the more I like it.
You mentioned errors in design and manufacturing process. I tend to think it's more user error on your part, especially when using Ferro rod. The choil on the blade edge is designed to strike the Ferro rod.
who uses a knife for splitting wood ? one tool can never do all the jobs or it does all those jobs poorly. I own this knife if i had to have only one knife to survive with it wouldnt be my number one pick but i do believe it is a good everyday carry general use knife.
It's terribly unfortunate that Buck flat out refuses to listen to their customers, including me, in regard to how to fully realize the potential of their design. 1. Make it in America. 2. Use S30V steel. & 3. MAKE IT IN AMERICA !
Thanks for the vid Guy I saw a nice one on ebay going for 30 bucks... I was surprised to see you made a video on it. I was on the fence about it but I'm going to save my money for something a little different. Thanks bud
Novel idea, hear me out here, why don't we just use a hatchet or saw to do the wood processing so we don't end up with a crappy overpriced metal brick that can do nothing well? This one actually has potential because it does what a knife is suppose to, it cuts well, imagine that.
Great knife, but the sheath is the worse. I wanted to covert to horizontal position. 1. There are no instructional videos for this sheath; I visited buckknives/about-knives/product-instructions/ as per card supplied, only to find no such address exists. 2. I visited this youtube channel as per card supplied, no such instructions here either. 3. So I browsed youtube, still nothing. 4. I figured it out myself, only to find that the 'nuts' used at the top are too long and every configuration I tried either needs more screws than what is supplied or leaves it lose... and way to fiddly to do. The belt spacer has a slot at the top, how on earth can it be pushed in without splitting the 'loop'? This could be placed at the square end(bottom), there is room for it! Surly Buck can come up with a much simpler method for this sheath.
Update; I purchased an assortment of 3/16 nuts and bolts, with mushroom head, for the 1" length I made sure to get extra nuts to act as spacers. Painted them all black. Now I have a VASTLY improved secure connection, that is far less fiddly. I've also dremmeled out a new spacer gap! Of course all of this could have been avoided with a well thoughtout sheath, which I pondered while on my way home from the hardware store; A single bolt in the center with a connected belt loop moulded with slots in one and groves in the other positioned at various angles. I wonder if anyone at Buck has actually tried using this sheath?
Disappointing but not surprising. I stick to the U.S. made knives Buck knives. Not all of them are great, but generally much better and a good quality.
I really want to call this knife the Bucky O'Hare?? Got that out of my system. Bought a Chinese made Buck Canoe and the backspring was so weak it was dangerous, returned it twice, all 3 terrible backsprings, the Bucky O'Hare was never on my to buy list after that fiasco. Got the US made 679 and it's been good as a hunting knife but the handle can get slippery. If you want a solid inexpensive survival knife try a Linder Guide, outside of Germany an underappreciated inexpensive beast of a knife.
Didn't you make some comment in the livestream about not quite being 'top-40' guy these days, but certainly for TV/movies/music not being quite so out there now you're a bit older and have a family? There you go, casually dropping the Volta in your montages again! Good news: there's pretentious art snob left in you yet.
@@CedricAda A good question. To ME a survival knife should be soft and need sharpening more often. A knife that will bend when it reaches it's flex limit, instead of snap. A knife that can handle being abused. Larger and thicker than other knives. Thicker at the tip. And have a grind with lots of steel before the main bevel. Flat grinds don't do it for me even when the stock is super thick. Other folks think a survival knife should be some supersteel that holds it's edge forever. I strongly disagree. And many will say a high end stainless is better than carbon because of rust, etc. Again, I disagree. I'd rather have to look after rust than worry about snapping the blade.
I like the look of the large Buck Selkirk Folder, but have never gotten round to getting one. Can anyone recommend a large, hard use folder that won't break the bank that i may have overlooked?
Im Trying Real Hard To Find a Positive!!! Maybe a Knife For Younger More Inexperienced Bushcrafters,so when They Bury the Edge in the Dirt/Grit and damage it While Learning You Don't Feel Bad At All :-)
ha-ha I was waiting for that one,but cheapness aside they are still made at home in Sweden and are great quality,so it helps if you can hate something a little more!!! ;-)))
Lol I wasn’t saying Moras are bad. I have loads of them and love them. I was just saying instead of paying more for this knife, you can pay way less for a far better knife👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I am glad this video got 25k views . Its a good knife not sure why you are bashing on a china knife when you have no idea on where material comes from lol . First off that not a choil lol its a notch for a fire steel mixed with a sharpening notch . The sheath is molded plastic not kydex . But basically same feel . Its actually a positive lock up on the sheath . The fire steel is also a signal device aka (whistle ) Its 420 hc which is carbon steel not stainless comb on bro no your stuff if you are going to review . The scales are g10 as well . Fact time usa gets there still from tiwan and china because we do not have enough ore over here . Most usa knifes are branded usa aka tagged usa and not usa forged ! There put together here which grey area allows them to be usa .
@@kendallstout3403 well considering 420HC has 13% Cr in it, that classifies it as a stainless steel. And with only 0.46% C, most of that Cr isn't used to form carbides and leaves it free in the matrix to help with corrosion resistance.
Alexander Selkirk was a sailor in the late 1600s who survived four years on a deserted island with nothing more than a pot, a musket with little ammo, a knife, and some blankets. He was the inspiration for the novel "Robinson Crusoe", published two years before his death. Selkirk is, arguably, the most famous successful survivor in the world and it is a bit of a shame his name is wasted on this mediocre knife.
You said that it's made in China you even put Donald Trump up saying it's made in China and now you're saying that it's an American made knife Come on man what is it made in China or Made in the USA
