The "Butchered" Genie - Part 3 (Platform Controls) 

Amazing that you can figure out that bowl of spaghetti.....awesome....great job....

I’ve been meaning to ask this: Every time Ivan says “Ground control”, does anyone else start singing “Ground Control To Major Tom” or is it just me?

Its impressive how you methodically work your way through that unbelievable hack job of wires... One circuit at a time... Thanks for your time producing these videos...

That was great fix! Almost to oem stuff!! 1 step forward, 2 steps backwards. But you got there quickly! Great video! Can't wait for the part 4!!!

You know it’s about to get real when Ivan has no shirt on.

I have worked on these old lifts that were built before communicating devices were normal. The typical hydraulic mechanic somewhat understands the need to power a hydraulic solenoid or relay AND usually does not have a drawing. The drawings are generally complex with interlocks so the hyd mechanic just hot wires the failed circuit. Sometimes extra switches are added in an effort to include a manual interlock when the built-in have been bypassed. Often the first problem is low voltage on 12v circuits combined with long wire lengths and exposed electrical boxes left out in the rain. Sometimes its bad batteries, alternators that have failed, corroded grounds on the alternator to chassis, etc. In the last ten years, the manufacturers have gone to higher voltage controls and electrically simpler communicating systems with trouble codes. Not standard, but still some help. Finally I would replace the bulb with an appropriate resistor, markup the drawing by hand and scan it into a pdf for an electronic record of that machine. Leave a hardcopy and emailed file for the customer.

You should probably replace the light bulb resistor with a real resistor, or at the very least, install a socket for the bulb and a note on the cover explaining what you did to future operators/mechanics.

The gift that keeps on giving, a powered lift!

Great job fixing other peoples sloppy work. Reminds me of the RV you fixed for the old guy.

What a nightmare, Ivan you are the man, and patient! I know who to call for an electronic birds nest, great work!

I predict we're going to be seeing alot of this property in the future - there's a Silverado in the garage!! A treasure-trove of diagnostic videos on the way ... 😂

There maybe several broken wires in the boom cable and they may not open until the boom is all the way out and up, stretching the cable. That could be why it will function where you had it but not up in the extended-high in the air postioins. Great work. You are at your best with the trouble shooting and using the diagram to deduce the problems!

I love this kind of content ,because this is the kind of stuff i deal with all the time, THANK YOU

Someone went through a lot of effort to completely wreck this thing rather than fixing the simple problems.

Ivan you did it again i'm amazed watching you thank you

The resistor looks like off an old Dodge Dart, like 1973 on ignition wire.

I'm amazed that you were able to repair that hopeless tangle of wires.

Probably someone working without a wiring diagram. Nice work

A couple of thoughts: 1. Replace the bulb with an appropriate value resistor. Vibrations could cause the bulb filament to open. 2. Repeat all test with boom fully extended. There could be broken wires that open when the wire loom is pulled straight. 3. Seal the holes where the switches were that you removed.

when I was an hvac contractor and ran into this type of hacking I would get nauseous.. especially when almost every wire in a panel is the same color and your on top of a building alone working on three phase voltage. one mistake and your fried !!

those circuit boards in the boom control box are to change the input of the controls to a pwm signal so the solenoids dont burn up from constant current, especially the flow control valve. on the joystick the those limit switches turn on the boards(two switches piggybacked, one for each direction) and the potentiometers allow for variable control. there are trimmers on the boards to fine adjust the slew rates. if i remember correctly 10 volts is the desired maximum output to the sollenoids. those boards were so bad we kept a spare of each on hand.

dude THANK YOU! Your info has helped me with my 45/22 I had the same wiring night mare somebody did a job on it. At one point I was trying to find the black TB7 wire it was cut off right at the wiring harness.

The mystery resistor looks like an old school ballast resistor for late 60's to early 70's Mopar. First electronic ignition for them.

And on to part 4 & I HOPE IT'S THE LAST PART. This things engine running gives me a headache & I can't imagine fixing it as Ivan is doing.

""2nd black wire was from horn control"" I can just imagine how that was discovered, when connected or powered on HONK/BUZZZZ/BEEEP and a half summersault/backflip occurred whilst poo-juice was emitted into drawers :)) been there done that

Excellent return to OEM . Safety liability issues if modified. Lower drive must be in slow creep speed when basket and boom is up. Micro switches in boom tell drive to be in creep mode or very dangerous situation if in high drive speed. Also lower has that electronic level sensor on front right base of turntable which stops function if out if level 3° +-. Alot of contractors fiddle with that vto override safety to go on slopes rough ground hills to boom up .. I started working owning renting using these in 1986.

LOL. Mystery ballast resistor. Wire nuts. Was that headphone jack? Where are the Scotch Locks?

Keep up the good work

The guy who did this probably thought that he was really smart to get it to work like this. The current owner is sure lucky you are there to fix it correctly.

On the majority of boom lifts you have a automatic two stage speed control for when you are up in the air (slow mode) verses lower down (fast), controlled via limit switched in/on the boom itself, (maybe that's the "spare wires") I would be very careful about bypassing the speed control stages as this is for safety.

"We don't like aftermarket stuff" Crams a lightbulb in for a resistor.

some humans operate on a different frequency ,, Ivan is one of those people.,. gifted and using his gift to fix the things the not so gifted have destroyed., haha that type of challenge would have me sweating like the devil in church.!

The zip tie and wire nut Genie. The hallmark of dependability!

You’re a genius bro

To answer your question, "why did they do all this crap when all the wiring is fine?" Answer: because they didn't know what they were doing!

I can't believe you're tearing apart my Masterpiece... Do you know how long it took me to customize it? _ The Butcher_

27:13 verify the switch works, never assume it's good with test light only and one or two toggle throws, unless you have eagle eyes on bulb intensity (put a meter in parallel if unsure) and cycle it on and off slowly 10+ times. yeah hard learned lessons of the past ;)

Wonder if the more modern versions have gone to CAN communication to do away with all the wires between the bucket and the main unit??? It seems like you could simplify this to four wires if you used CAN

This thing is a career..

What happened to the original platform controls panel to necessitate the DIY platform controls panel? THHN and wire nuts are a sure sign an electrician and/or handyman was there before, THHN is good for houses but not equipment or vehicles. Great video, Ivan!

Very impressive. Thanks Ivan!

It may just be a case of the original 10 ohm resistor was at fault and someone’s ambition outweighed their skills?

The next mod I want to see on this is a rope ladder tied to the platform. Then when it breaks down the operator can climb down and fix it

Perhaps the previous repairs for the voltage drop issue used an override switch because of current draw concerns when using another feed. It does look like a bad case of 'just get it fixed'. Must have been hard leaving any dodgy but working wiring.

Ivan,this relic needs to have a new harness installed or at least get rid of those house wiring wire nuts. You can retire on this piece of equipment 😂

Let me hear that horn !

looks like a ballast resister off old style ignition system

Hopefully you left "As Built" information on drawing.

What would you do without wiring diagrams there just brilliant especially on something that is as complex as that lift

Few things are more frustrating than having to figure out and then undo what some moron did before you got there.

very talented man, a genius when it comes to monkey wiring, great videos all the time.

After seeing how speshul that crane is, I wouldn't give that customer your "no comeback" guarantee, because that sucker is likely to - come back.

The flow control valve is meant to be proportional. The circuit board on the controller SHOULD vary in output (A terminal) and typical is a PWM current (depending on which solenoid they are using). There is small trim pots on the circuit board to adjust your threshold (start current when joystick is moved slightly of center) and max out (full current for fast speed when the joystick is at full stroke.

Thanks!

Lost comprehension after a couple of minutes 😵 Enjoyed the rest of the video ,anyway !

Why did they install all that silly wiring when it was easier to just fix it probably

Looks like a 2ohm 10-20 watt resistor from a crt TV, was common. If you have to pay to find the guy who wired this it would be worth it to belt him in the gut.

A lightbulb as a current limiting resistor.

uh-oh, what happened. I'm sure we'll be very acquainted with that phrase on that unit lol

I believe you don't need to start the engine to diagnose electrical control signals in these things just have the estops out I think.

You can't just bypass the control cards on those machines as the card controls the proportional controllers. Adjust the outputs to the flow control valves with the trim pots on the control boards. It may seem to be operating slow but when you are working at 45' up the speed its at now will be far to fast. The bad repairs haven't been repaired properly its just been made to work Failing that just replace the

Hope the horn will work, needs it when driving in town LOL

I have a 98 genie z45-22 with the ford gas engine similar to this. I have a problem when you drive weather it be slow speed or fast as soon as you hit the turn button right or left on the joystick it slams to a stop and makes it almost impossible to drive. It also is slow up and down for the secondary and swing speed is also slow. The book shows small pot screws that can be adjusted to increase or decrease speed of that function.

Great video

Nice, the old vacuum tube mod.

Nice

those old terminal strips/connectors can back off or have terminal fretting from vibration and break connection. I wouldn't assume the wire nut slinger was wrong and reconnect said terminals. around mid 90's (when I was late teens to 20's) there were many bad junk materials plagued upon us, pushed and put into everything from then forward, from base materials to electronics (bad capacitor anyone?) I have flat grown tired of all the fudge, so here I complain ;)

It's a wire nut, a twisty-tie is a plastic coated wire used to keep bread bags closed by some bakeries, don't know where you got that reference from but it's WRONG, as noted by a ren & stimpy character.

DUH. That should have been the start of part 2 when the customer asked to make it like new.

All the Diodes are the cause for the voltage drop

It would appear that the person that made the wiring changes used the russian roulette method of wiring either not having a schematic and or perhaps no understanding of circuits. Plug and unplug wires , change connections at random until it sort of seems to work trying to solve the new problems that they created as they went.. (better add a switch here, a button there). It's quite comical really, however I do feel sorry for the owner having to go to the extra expense of having Ivan sort it all out.

So i'm a bit confused about the light bulb. Did you not take off a 2A resistor and replace it with a 2A light-bulb?

I watched all the videos and a few others of yours. Where did you get your leads for your meter? I found the back props on your Amazon link. I could have seen it wrong but it seems you use your meter leads as jumper wires with the "test lights" tail light bulbs

Nothing like a good circuit diagram , just hate when the wire goes into one of those un diagramed circuit boards. And they all cost waaaaay to much LOL

Ivan how do expect the wire nut and toggle switch manufactures to stay in business. LOL. Sometimes they just work to hard to solve a problem. Instead of using the computer between your ears.

What happens if the light bulb element burns out? I think this Genie needs some replacement parts such as the foot switch and main panel switches (if they are available). Why the tool electrician did all of those wire nut hacks and messed with the boom control panel is odd, maybe he custom wired the Genie to do movements the original design did not do? Likely he was on a job that needed this Genie to stand on its legs? LOL. Fired is right Ivan.

Beautiful mind! By the way you have group of hatters that following you all over the webside🤣 Did Keith already establish somewhere?

You just know it didn't look like that when it was new. LOL

Do you document the changes you have made by drawing them on the diagram and leaving it with the equipment?

Ivan 1 bulb to slow bottom rotation with resistance, and 1 bulb to add amp to speed up the other?

Such a screwed up contol system, years of bodging . I'm supprised it didn't have a wiring fire. Run away while you can :-D

Hey there I have a question. I own same machine as in your vid. My question is why do you think all three booms r super slow n drive is slow as all hell untill u head down hill. It's unpredictable lol I came off truck way to fast and almost shit the bed on that one. Mayb we can chat more if u could help

Hi my friend I'm working in one and it's only going to high speed low speed how can I check that and found out diagram where did you get it can you tell me please thank you I know it happened a little box in the hydraulics and it's got like a filter and I think that's the one that got stuck in there but I need to know how can I pull the stuff out if you

Like #456 Thanks for the video!

lmao, "who ever put this here, should be fired"

Exactly what is bulb reducing current too? Obviously not the drive motor itself.

boom!

Don't get it yet? My brother would cut wires and rig to get it to work in less time than we would have in it to get it right from the start without a diagram.

What bulb amps did you use to on the first and second on the flow control

Hahahahahaha just stay there and drive and fix it for them

I need your help I got A genie 45/22 giving me hell!!

We have one of these for work. It has all kinds of problems. Sadly we cant find anyone to fix.

Twisty tie = wire nut.

I have to know...does the horn work? The Genie needs a horn.

You need to replace all of that old fashioned wire with an arduino and a tablet.

" WHO EVER PUT THIS THERE SHOULD BE FIRED ", LMFAO. I hope this person was not PAID to do this MESS.

And this the machine is S40 thank you if you let me know what you think thank you God bless you

how can i get manuals for genie S125

Привет Иван! Услышал от тебя не знакомую, не понятную мне фразу. Прозвучала 24:06. Титры пишут как sweet arama :) Переведи пожалуйста. Учим английский с сыном... Титры, наверное ошиблись, скорее всего нужно понимать как - приятный аромат?

To see why the horn does not work for safety reasons