The Carved 360: "You Stayed on your feet!" 

Agreed. I like the NS boards because they're so wide. For a true all mountain that will do some decent carving I need the extra width.

We're working on a toeside carved 360 with her in the piggy back position... Stay tuned!

Good point. Toe side 360 carves are much easier in my opinion.

Watch this space... More coming tonight!

Thank you!

Right on!

Yeah, she trusts me so much - maybe too much... But also, once the camera is rolling I can get her to do almost anything!

Right? +30/+15! The whole "quiver of one" mentality in the industry and the insistence of so many riders on "one stance to do everything" is probably holding back a lot of potential carvers...

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Come up to Revy, I'll show you how it's done!

I'd love to see a carved 360 on skis!

Thanks Bro!

Right?

Neither did I... I hope I'm still riding like you when I'm 72 years old!

Awesome! The carved 360 just feels so great! I can't imagine wasting all that kinetic energy with a skidded "hockey" stop anymore...

Well I won't give away all my secrets but the "how to" tutorial is coming soon! Board specs are in the description, I'm 155 lbs fully dressed. Custom stiffened boots and modified bindings. Been riding snowboards for 36 winters now...

@@cherrycarves me 8 years but pretty mediocre and just discovered carving this season, but my salomon assasin and some old nitro binding wasnt suitable. Bought some K2 Thraxis, Rome Black Label and an Amplid Morning Glory but couldnt test it yet. Wish me luck that it rides well

wider stance is the way to go, i roll 158w as a 6 ft homie. i’m a master at carving & spinning. nothing is more important than board control

Nice! Let that side cut do the work, pushing it forward, a bit in front, helps

I think that was Liz Lemon from 30 Rock, but you should definitely get a carving board!

Lol... The rule here is you can carry a kid, but you can't strap them on with any sort of harness or kid carrier. Canada eh...

We're working on a toeside carved 360 with her on my back... Spring Break Woo-hoo!

Why yes! Coming soon...

Revelstoke Mountain Resort, BC Canada

Toeside is easier for sure, especially if you ride a duck stance. Look out for a "How to Carve a 360" video coming soon!

Hey 2cool. The updated freeride/carving model is the NeverSummer Triple Camber Proto FR with a new base profile and extra stiffness! I recommend it in the DF 'cause if its not at least 284mm in the waist it ain't a real all mountain board...

Thx for your fast reply. 👍 Did you ride the Proto FR? Is it still nimble and playful? The Westbound looks so smooth and flexy on the short / circle carves, it‘s a pleasure to watch.

@@2coolforyourdog I got a Triple Camber Proto FR at the end of last season, haven't ridden it yet but I have high confidence in NeverSummer. Softer boards are more nimble and playful, stiffer boards are more stable at speed. Your sweet spot will depend on your weight, your ability level and your preference. I like 'em stiff for higher speed and steeper carving though I'm only 155lbs. The West Bound was mounted with riser plates which stiffen the board under the feet.

Thx a lot for your very helpful infos. ❤ I did ride many years on ultra stiff raceboards with hardboots, but I don’t enjoy it anymore, because I’m limited on that few days the groomers are perfect, so I‘d like to switch on softboots and more playful, nimble boards, that allows me to be more versatile over the day, but be still able to carve in the morning on perfect groomers. I really enjoy your more lazy, short carves on the west Bound or the Contra. Probably the Jones Freecarver 6000 would be a cool board too , but maybe not wide enough for my size 13 boots. Do you think the waist with I will need on a board has to be 280 or more? Or will riser pads allow me riding smaller boards? Thx.

@2coolforyourdog Whoa... size 13!!! No way you can carve a 280mm waist with those flippers. Maybe at low speed on the flatest green run with super steep angles and mega thick risers... My rule of thumb is 2cm wider than your mondo point size for intermediate carvers and 4cm wider for experts. So you'll need a 320mm waist at least; only Donek Snowboards can build a board that wide. You might get away with a 300mm if it's soft with a small sidecut radius (like 9m) and you ride east coast hardpack. My sweet spot is 295 to 300mm for my size 10 feet, but I ride soft cord on very steep terrain with big sidecuts, and I ride the smallest boots I can fit. I can manage the 284 waisted NeverSummer because it's a slow-medium speed board, soft with a small sidecut radius, but I wish they made them wider. Go custom, you'll never be happy on a production board. As soon as you get going, you're gonna boot out. I also used to ride hardboots of course, but the new wide boards are more comfortable, playful and versatile, and the stance just feels better. Get one!

Thank you! Board specs and binding details are in the description.

Indeed

Yes, when the track makes a "teardrop" shape. When it's on a side hill it's an "allez-oop", when it tightens up a lot it's a "spiral". Then there's "the perfect circle" which is less fun but easier if you don't have a wide board...

I ride Flux XV bindings. They are the stiffest and most responsive bindings I have ever seen or tried. It's my opinion that the boot stiffness should match the binding stiffness, and both should match the board speed and turn size, and the terrain too. So a smaller softer board that turns slower and tighter can have a softer boot and binding. A big board like your Donek Flux will perform better with a stiffer interface, especially if you're riding steep terrain. I would rather have a stiff boot with a softer binding than a softer boot with a stiff binding because the binding buckles can crush a soft boot and cause pain in the feet. On my stiffest, fastest boards I'm always looking for the stiffest interface possible. On softer all mountain production boards, a mid stiff interface is fine.

@@cherrycarves Thanks for your reply. I agree I'm 110 kg so I bend boards and bindings quite easy. The problem is that I can't find a boot that is stiff enough after 2 weeks of riding when its braked in. My question is have you tried alpine hard boots on your wide boards in your soft boot stance? I think that can be an option. If you have tried that set up what are your thoughts?

@Pontus Göth Yes, I used to ride my hardboots on soft boot production boards before real wide boards were available. Hard boots are better suited to narrow boards and steeper stances but anything is possible. I know people who even ride duck stances on powder boards with hardboots but it doesn't work for me. Every boot with break in eventually. Even at 70kg I notice how much softer a Driver X is after ten days. Next season I want to try the Flux OM-BOA boot. Take your Driver X and replace the liner with a ski boot liner that has a plastic tongue in the front. Then take a tongue from a ski boot shell, trim it to size and put it between the liner and tongue inside your boot. Finally, strap it all together with a velcro loop or a Booster Strap (or both!). Game changer!

To whip the board around, complete the 360 turn and regain my feet... For a regular carved turn (180 degrees) I move my weight back at the end also, but far less.

@@cherrycarves Thanks!

Indeed I do... Email me at jamescherry@gmail.com please.

Board specs are in the description. Prior, Winterstick, or Donek will make you a wide carving board, if you ride mostly ice just ask for it soft flexing. Any of these boards will blow your Burton right out of the water!

The NeverSummer is a Fusion Rocker Camber, the others are new wave camber

Thanks Pascal! Deets and specs in the description.

+27 front, +12 rear

Is that what your PSIA instructor taught you? Never trust a PSIA or CASI robot, those guys can't carve...

Board specs in description

Why? Is that more fun?

Isn't it? I usually end up pointing the same direction I started...

Indeed! That's how we dooz it...