So I just installed this on my UTV. I know you did not connect the turn signals. However, the blue and brown do not blink the ambers or #2 & #5 lights. They actually blink the reds #1 & #6. So effectively the brakes and turn signals all use the red lights. Just a fyi for anyone else doing this. Thanks for the video.
@@BaptismOverland Ya, you cannot override these as they are on the strobe module and cannot be relayed with the turn signals. Hence why they use the static red lights.
I’ve been trying to find this light everywhere. I had no idea of the name or how to even search for it. Thank you for this. I also have this Garvin rack but there’s no way I could fabricate anything. Looks great.
Xprite USA has awful customer service. Placed the order on 6/19/23 for the RX G7 light.6/20/23 order status said label printed WAS pumped for it to come in. 9 days later order status says label printed. Called and spoke to a customer service representative and was told I’d get status update by end of day. Never happened. Called 10 different times todays; left voicemails; no return. Sent an additional email saying I was going to report them to the credit card company as fraud and get my money back. Xprite FINALLY responded saying they sent “the replacement order and expect 3-5 business day to arrive”. Was provided no order number. Very unfortunate!
The 4 signal wires, these are power? I think that’s what you said I can’t fine anywhere else that will explain it. I’m wiring the reverse light up now to a switch, just wanted to be sure it’s switching power, not ground to activate the relay. Same with brake lights. Positive there as well I’m guessing?
Those 4 wires are trigger wires that yes, power the relays to turn on said light. If you’re wanting to control the lights with switches. But that defeats the purpose cuz every time you reverse or hit the brake, you’ll turn on a switch? I’m confused. As far as amps I’m not sure. It should be on their site. I don’t have the instructions anymore
@@BaptismOverland The brake/outer lights get brighter when brake is applied. It’s only half bright without the red wire hooked up. So yes, that will be controlled with the brake switch. My question is if that chase light red wire is looking for power or is it looking for a ground to activate the full 12v. Coming straight off the brake, that’s a ground but maybe from the computer, it’s a 12v signal.. I’ll find out later today when I can power up and see what my meter tells me when the brake is applied. Probably full 12v on one of the 3 wires at the tail lamp. And then same for the reverse light. Is it switching + or -... I assume + which makes me think the brake will also be +. Anyway, I’ll get it worked out later today. Thank you for the reply and great video! Way more helpful than any of these other xprite videos
If the switches on my Switchpros RCR-Foce-12 all ready have buttons with triple triggers can I eliminate the Trigger switch that came with the light and run my Pos/Negatives to the Power Module on The Switchpros?
You explain everything very well and yet I still feel lost on something. To run the white light on their on switch, do you have to run another power wire? What color wires are just for white lights? And do you have to the whole bar just to use white?
Yeah that part gets confusing. So their switch just turns the unit on. Without it nothing functions. Now if you wire the white light wire to your reverse lights and you go into reverse the white lights on the bar will come on. However, I wanted to use the white light as scene lighting...I didn't want to have to go into reverse just to light up the rear behind me so I placed the white wire to one of my pod switches. Yeah it's an extra step and I actually didn't like doing it after running it like that on the field. I also found the white light on the bar isn't powerful enough. So I've since just added a white scene light above my spare tire and then I ran the Xprite white light to my reverse.
The same except that KC doesn't give you the wiring harness which will make it even MORE daunting with the wiring. Literally just the unit by itself. That's why I went with this plus the price point
Did you ever get credit for your first light? I have the 30” ,the first section quit working in just a couple months and they won’t return my calls etc. I’m pretty pissed about the lack of customer service. Would you happen to know how to contact these yayhoos? Thanks, keith
I wish it came with an app or remote so you dont have to run the wires all the way to the front. Then I could just connect it to my preran aux switch in the cargo area
@@RebeccaTiffany1 I never try to run any wires under the vehicle. When we off road we do a lot of water crossings or go over rocks etc. I don't want anything getting snagged under there
Question, will that chase light work if you just hook it up to the power source without tapping into the back up lights, the brake lights and turn signals? I was wanting to just use it without all that extra wire hook ups.
Yes! But then you'll need to put it to its own switches. I had it like that for awhile. So you'll have to turn on the main switch just to get the chase working (and so you can turn on and control the hazards ) THEN flick on a switch for the white lights if you want those on. You'll look like Han Solo in the millennium falcon 😂
A couple of questions for you, I bought this light specifically just for the strobes, do I have to use the trigger wires at all? Also I’m wanting to hook this chase light up to my “Auxbeam 8 switch controller pad”, do I have to use the rocker switch that it came with, any help would be much appreciated! Thx
I got you. I had the same questions AND I have the auxbeam on one of my rigs. So the way this thing works is there are 2 wires that power the whole thing. So to get power to it, you can either plug it directly into the battery OR yes, plug into your auxbeam. However, that switch it comes with powers the relay that tells the unit to send power to the light unit. Without that, the relay will stay in the off position. You can bypass the relay except that the relay is INSIDE the unit (I know...) and since you can't really open the unit without damaging it, there's no way to bypass it. That being said, plugging it into a switch controller like auxbeam is pointless. You'll basically have to turn the switch on in the auxbeam just so power can get to the unit but THEN you'll have to turn on the switch it comes with to turn the relay on. That's two steps for no reason. As far as the trigger wires, well, whichever of those wires you choose to wire up, that's the light that will power on. So if you're just wanting it for the strobes, then leave the other wires alone. But here the caveat- the switch it comes with is the only way to turn the strobes on and off and also to toggle between the different strobe patterns. Without that switch, you can't choose which pattern you want to run and because it also comes turned off by default, there won't be a way to turn them on. TLDR: it's pointless to plug this into your switch controller (like auxbeam) because that just adds a necessary step and yes, you have to use the switch it comes with to activate and manage the strobe patterns. If all you're wanting is strobes, then I would suggest buying a pair of amber lights and plugging it into your auxbeam and put a strobing module somewhere along that line but, again, you'll have to install the 3 way switch THAT comes with to toggle between the patterns unless you buy a strobing module that only has one pattern.
Question when it come to having the rocker switch off and the ones that are tied to your break lights will they automatically come on or does the switch have to be on with a red steady light. Thinking as most law enforcement vehicles with the less on top the red lights only come on once the breaks are hit. Would this be the same case?
Switch still needs to be on for anything on this bar to be powered up. It's a bummer but that's how all these chase lights work. I knew that going into it too. Don't forget these were originally built for UTVs and such so it's built in a way that you have to click on the rocker switch to turn the whole unit on
And yes, due to regular road use and law enforcement issues, you don't want it being on when you're daily driving and hitting the brake. So it needs to have the ability to be shut off until you hit the trails
Well I actually had it on by accident once and ran by a cop. He didn't do anything so I should be good. But you know how it is...if they feel like doing something or wanting to pull you over they will lolol
Just so you know, I bought this and found out that the blue and brown controls the RED as turn signals because USA… unfortunately I live in AU. Wish it changed the yellow indicators instead.
how come you didnt wire it to your apollo switch panel? i hear you can but then you have to sacrifice a second switch to be momentary on in order to go thru the strobe modes, is that why? im confused about this myself since im adding some cheap chase lights or may go like you with xprite light bar.
Because you need to still wire the 3 way switch to activate the flashing ambers. If I wired to the Apollo, well now I'll have to turn on the switch on the Apollo just to send power the chase light bar itself THEN turn on the 3 Way switch to activate the light bar then press it again to activate flashing ambers. That's a lot of steps 😂 like I'm flying the millennium falcon
@@BaptismOverland so there isnt a way to skip the included 3 way switch while wiring to the apollo intech but at the same time preserve the 6-7 way toggling? My Voswitch lets me set any switch to 4 settings those being: constant on, momentary, flash, and strobe. Im assuming yours is the same. Sure i could set the voswitch to strobe but i would like to use the different strobe patterns of the original included 3 way switch. Just wondering if thats attainable with our apollo/voswitch panels.
correct. Only way to bypass is to cut the wires up which I wouldn't recommend because it's all bundled up in a way that you could ruin it. And the rest of it is inside the unit that I'm not gonna bust it open and ruin the waterproofing The only one I know that could work is the KC chase light because there's no harness. Just straight wires coming out of it I believe
@@BaptismOverland thanks for your responses brother! I'll pass on the KC. Im anti KC, not because i cant afford it I just think they cater to "those" that just want to put on the most expensive shit on their jeeps. Thanks again
@@blackdiamondrob I feel that! The Xprite is already complete. Just wire up and go vs KC (Also RIDGE makes a chase light too that I actually like better). That being said, if I ever switch vehicles I'm not putting a chase on that one.
You didn’t go through all its functions, if so I’m not too impressed, I’m really wanting a directional setting for the use of the flashers such as if I’m pulled over on the highway to direct traffic to stay away from me or stay left if I’m on the right shoulder of a road.
There's a reason. I wired it up to the way I personally want to use it vs how you plan to use it. I just wanted red when braking, white for reversing and then ambers for when I'm being followed. If you want turn signal it's as easy as splicing those wires to your turns. That's it. That's the only function I didn't connect