Prework part 1, makes perfect sense. Seeing, in pictorial sense, how the saw cuts tells a lot of us all we need to know to have a mechanical sense of how the tool needs sharpened to work properly. Thanks for putting this first, it should make the rest of the series easier to understand. I'll be back after each section if I have a comment. Just wanted to thank you for such a great graphic while it was fresh in my ever slipping mind. (I'm a survivor of traumatic brain injury (schrapnel) and a stroke.) 2. Great explanation. Often tasks completed by hand may take longer, but you almost always end up with a much better outcome. Thanks again for the advice. 3. You would be a great teacher, you have a voice that commands a person to listen to what you say, and a knowledge that tells us a vast majority of issues we may encounter. This was a very well put together tutorial on the prework needed to set up a saw for a good sharpening. I definitely have to go watch the other four videos now. Oh, and save them to my tool making library for easier finding when I need a refresher on what to do when the time comes as I am not a professional Sawyer and won't need this information on a regular basis. Thank you so much for this detailed series.
It's this generation of men and women that didn't half ass anything. Quality had one standard, high. In my opinion the thoroughness of his explanation and the time he has invested in passing it along is in its self a lost art. Everyone wants the instant answer or the instant fix... Well if you want substandard quality go that route..... If you want it done right, without compromise, then take the time to learn it right in order to do it right. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well.
That's wrong. In the past, there were just as many bunglers as there are today. Only the best tools survived the test of time, the bad and broken ones melted down long ago!
By far the most detailed explanation I've seen. Thank you for taking the time to pass on your knowledge. I hope the other 4 video's are available to find.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience to show how saws cut and maintenance involved sharpening and setting teeth. I m a retired sawfiler and spent 33 years with I. P. and West Fraser mostly filing bandsaws , but also thin kerf carbide gangsaws. Enjoyed your video.
I have a question about these saws. I've seen several pictures on Facebook that show people standing next to cut down giant sequoia trees and the cut is completely smooth (like glass smooth). Is that kind of cut possible with these saws?
So I have followed your instructions and sharpened and set the the saw but my shavings coming off are not like those in your video. My question is , does the set and height of the rakers need to be different for hardwood ,as I am cutting ash and oak. Thank you and have a great day.
This fellow is the real deal. His knowledge of crosscuts saws is impressive. Unfortunately, he lacks the art of simple explanation. He continually underestimates the intelligence and memory of his audience, and the video moves along at a glacial pace. Warren is undoubtedly a much better craftsman than a teacher.
+Philip Norris I should point out that not everyone's intelligence and memory are equal. Some fare better than others. For those that lag and need the extra information, this man's presentation style may be invaluable. For those that have experience, they can pick up on things quickly, though they may have to wait for Warren to bring everyone else up to speed. Patience is at the core of both teaching and learning. Unfortunately, most people today, for our modern fast paced mentality, lack the necessary patience and thus, have to learn the long and sometimes often hard way. The devil is in the details and if you want to catch the devil, you must pay close attention to details. By paying attention to details, you get to know what's normal, what's not normal, and what works and what doesn't work. Visual observation, ie, Audible observation, Mental/Logic/Reasoning observation, ie "does it make sense or not? That being said, it's not so much what you know or don't know, already, but HOW you know and how you are able to acquire and mentally process that knowledge into successful and productive action. Knowledge and Wisdom go hand in hand and neither are good without the other. Next, is interest. How much one learns in life is proportional to one's interest. Persistence and determination factors in and finally.... (I think) Memory.... Use it or lose it. Often what we learn, some day becomes obsolete knowledge. I call it vain trendy fashion knowledge. Here today, gone tomorrow. I think I covered all the bases. My point is that concise communication doesn't necessarily equate to effective communication. There is a time and place where concise communication is effective, but the technique is NOT a "one size fits all" means of communication in every situation. Sometimes, elaboration is needed. As for Warren. He probably IS an extraordinary craftsman at what he does and it's because he has followed many of the things I touched upon, in the foregoing text. Cheerio.
He is communicating a LOT of information. He also goes on to explain even more information to cover other problems that occur, but are not necessarily problems with this particular saw. As a modern sawfiler, I feel that he is doing an excellent job. To each their own I guess.
@Jeff Z If it wasn't for Phillip Norris's snappy comment, we wouldn't have Twinhit's incredible response. Phillip's comment is like a kink in a saw blade; Twinhit's reply is like the work it takes to hammer out that kink.
Finally landed me a one-man saw and am now ready to tune one up that I can use. Plan to use it with my cabin-building. Glad to re-find this info. Thanks much. I do a lot of file work and get into sharpening tools for proper satisfaction with their use. Have two two-man saws to tune up eventually (when I get a pal willing to pull it).
I got me a genuine old "H. DIsston&Sons" one man crosscut saw which I sanded most of the rust off of. I got me a genuine Shurley Dietrich saw jointer; (a short one not a long one but that's good enough for me). Plus I got me a genuine old Dunlap Hand Saw Set with a plier-type handle. The saw looks like it hasn't been used very much. It is straight as an arrow with no distortions whatsoever. I ran the jointer over the teeth and it seems to have been already preset to the right depth because nearly all the raker teeth stick out by less than a thousandth of an inch or are perfectly level with the inset for the file. Which is great because I don't have a feeler gauge and I'm not sure what the right setting should be. I'm all ready to joint it, sharpen the teeth and set the teeth. The Dunlap pliers even came with instructions that has a list of kinds of files to use on different saws... but it stops at 5 teeth per inch and this saw is 3 teeth per inch so I'm not sure what are the right files I should use to sharpen it with. Could you please tell me what kind of files I should get? Thank you very much. PS: I already put thumbs up on your videos. The other thing is setting the teeth. The saw as I said looks in fine shape barely used and the set of the teeth look fine as they are. How do I use this tool? It has 2 screws for adjustment but I don't know how to use them. Or what the proper offset of the cutting teeth should be. There are a bunch of numbers on a metal wheel.which are confusing because they don't run in order of size: 10-12-14-16--15-13-11-9-7-5-4-6-8. Any information will be very much appreciated! Thanks again.
I use evaporust to remove the rust. Eliminates the scrubbing entirely. If there is a lot of pitch just use a solvent called goo-b-gone. Works well if you soak it a while.
Very well said arvile conley. In order to do something like this properly you can't compromise on the right way. It's like when I finish hand restoring old axes. People ask why I would spend 10 to 20 dollars on an axe head then take the time to clean it all up then take the time to make a handle when I could buy a new one for 20 to 30 dollars and the only answer I can give them is that I can buy a new axe but I can never replace what I've got.
What a great service you are providing, Mr. Miller! Can you tell me the proper way to set and file teeth on a great American (or crown) sawtooth pattern?
i own a one man and a two man saw that belonged to my grandfather, in good shape. I am looking for the tools needed to get them back to working as designed.
