THE DEATH OF WOOD FILLER: A Better Way To Fix Cracks

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There is a better alternative to using wood filler.
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Wood filler still has its use, but try this method to up your game in the world of woodworking.

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Опубликовано:

17 авг 2023

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Комментарии : 32

@dennismbrandi 11 месяцев назад

I never thought of doing the wedge technique. So simple it’s brilliant. I learned something new thank you

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Excellent! Hope it comes in handy on some future projects for you.

@billj4137 14 дней назад

Never thought of it but love the idea.

@tedsobocienski787 11 месяцев назад

I like the content. I'll use it on the next crack. Good work, keep going.

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Cheers

@stevesiefken6432 11 месяцев назад

Great tip!

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Put it to good use!

@sauljaquez7138 5 месяцев назад

Thank you for the video

@JeffEstesBuilds 5 месяцев назад

Glad you liked it!

@user-bm8yp7tl6e 7 месяцев назад

Thanks

@heikkivaltonen1242 11 месяцев назад

Now this was useful: effective, cheap, easy. Thanks!

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Glad you liked it, hope it helps!

@jameshayes850 11 месяцев назад

Gotta love the new technique with the hands minus push stick DUH ??

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Definitely not a proper "safe" use of hands on the table saw, I will indeed put out a video on proper technique in the future.

@fredriksvensson2797 5 месяцев назад

Brilliant!

@JeffEstesBuilds 5 месяцев назад

Glad you like it!

@thomasscharton1299 2 месяца назад

Making a big (4'x9') interior barn door (closing off bath from bedroom)... I'm not skilled at anything besides rough carpentry (where small gaps aren't a huge deal), and so I was excited to find and try this technique. I found it filled the gaps very nicely. However, removing the dried glue has been a lot of work. I've been sanding for hours and I'm still worried that when I stain it, the stain will look funky if/where I failed to get rid of traces of glue. In retrospect I'm not sure that letting the glue dry and cure before removing is a best practice. I've been reading tips about removing glue ASAP because it comes off easier before it is cured. Thus, I wish I'd maybe tried removing the excess by scraping it off with a chisel or wiping it off with a rag and denatured alcohol. Any feedback about that? I can see that if the glue isn't cured the wedge may move as you chisel off the excess. But, really, this glue removal is a huge pain. Might be worth the risk. Also, my door is supposed to be a rustic piece when finished, i.e. the boards haven't been planed for uniformity. So, in some sections a portion of a board is a bit higher than the adjoining board. Filling a gap here -- Ugh! The dried glue issue becomes especially difficult because it's essentially in a crevice--hard to get at. I'd offer a hint of: Do whatever is needed to sand/plane the adjoing surfaces before glueing in a wedge. Anyway, glue issues notwithstanding, thanks for the tip! I'm anxious to get on with the staining and see how it turns out.

@JeffEstesBuilds 2 месяца назад

Hey thanks for this report, I totally understand where you are coming from at this phase of the build. I would start off by agreeing glue is a huge PAIN to clean post-dry and usually I do my best to wet-rag the excess off after clamping, wedging or joining boards. For post dry chisels work but you gotta be really careful with grain direction as well as your personal safety. Sanding with the proper tool, extraction and grit will most likely be your best bet but keeping patient as to not dish or dive the sander is essential. If your project surface is not flat, this becomes increasingly difficult. For example if your boards are different thicknesses this becomes really time consuming to sand between. In this event, I back drag a scraper or razor blade gently and remove the excess glue with a hard edge. This is a great method that you can adjust the size of the scraper and get into the small cracks or dips on the surface. One last thing you can do is water pop the grain to try and discover hidden glue before you stain. This will really save you from having to sand through stain which is a biiiiig bummer. Please let me know how this turns out and best of luck!

@wjtate138 3 месяца назад

I have a 5 ft x 7 ft 1.5 inch thick Douglas fir table that developed two full length cracks that run 7ft and 1.5 in deep. These deep cracks are not straight either. They run along an in and out pattern. What do you recommend.

@JeffEstesBuilds 3 месяца назад

Interesting. The first thing I would check is the attachment method of the top to the base. Perhaps there is not enough room for the table to expand and contract during the seasonal changes. Table top "z"clips or attachment clips are great because they hold vertical force while allowing for horizontal expansion. It is also worth checking the moisture content of the wood to make sure your sub 10% or it will continue to contract as it dries out. If it is too tightly secured with no room to move it will crack. Once you eliminate or discover the threat or a cause, you can see what the table does with movement over a week or two (let it settle where it wants to be) and cut some wedges. Unfortunately you will have to "chase" the check by basically hammering in the wedges with glue, gently, as you can. You might get an 8" stretch at a time, maybe 18" but just be patient and let the glue set up properly before breaking them off/ cutting them flush. Let me know how it goes!

@walterrider9600 11 месяцев назад

thank you . question please . i worked metal for years if it had a crack i would drill a hole at the end then braze or weld the crack . the hole kept the crack from migrating . why is wood not drilled ? then fixed .

@David_K_pi 11 месяцев назад

@walterrider9600 - I'm not sure that would stop the crack from continuing in wood as it does in metal due to the nature of wood. Metal is a homogenous material, whereas wood is a large number of fibers bundled together. A crack in wood is one bundle of fibers separating from another. Also, the round plug will stand out like a sore thumb. Jeff's method blends in with the wood grain. By the way, that was a very interesting question and made me think hard about it. And that's a good thing. 😁

@walterrider9600 11 месяцев назад

@@David_K_pi thank you . i would guess its dependant upon the grain ? if it was with the flow of the gain it would migrate ? if against the grain it would stop?

@JeffEstesBuilds 11 месяцев назад

Wood tends to expand and contract in ways that tensile strength effects it differently than metal. This method is fantastic for surface level checks or cracks but true through cracks require "keying" to tie the material across the grain, or perpendicular to the wood movement. In theory, however, I would say that a large enough hole at the termination point of the crack, filled with a dowel and wood glue would effectively work. In fact, thinking on it in detail, this method is worth investigation as a form of inlay. The grain, of course would be vertical like an end grain cutting board but, hey, lets see what happens.

@walterrider9600 11 месяцев назад

@@JeffEstesBuilds thank you