The guys statement that the cold goes to the house is wrong. The suction line (cold line/low side) actually goes into the compressor where it is compressed (which heats it) and the heat is removed from the fan on the outside unit. The liquid-high pressure refrigerant (hot/high side) then feeds back to the evaporator (inside) where it is converted to a low pressure either with a TXV or fixed orifice. The heat from the home is absorbed at the evaporator, the refrigerant gets superheated and carried back to the compressor where the process repeats. The reason the line is cold is because it is at a low pressure (close to the freons boiling point). You still want to insulate the suction line to prevent condensation and extra heat being adsorbed which will raise the systems pressure.
I've been doing industrial, commercial and residential hvac and building automation for over 35 years.Their is a paradox here. If you spend quite a bit more on a higher efficient unit and it's cost to remove the old unit and install the new one, how long will it take you to get that upfront cost back in energy savings vs replacing it with a lower seer unit. Also understand that a higher efficient unit's parts are considerably more expensive than a lower efficient unit. ( kinda like parts for a Ford Taurus vs a Chevrolet Corvette) He spoke of a variable speed evaporator motor and the unit having two compressors. Also If it has a low ambient kit in it driving the condenser motor, there is more cost and more parts to consider their too.Common sense says if you have more components and they are high performance components, then you will have more repair costs eventually. All man made parts eventually fail. Your contractor can buy a typical after-market 3 speed 1/3 hp 1040 rpm evaporator motor/cap for about $75.00 bucks for a typical low seer machine. The newer units motors now are using the ECM X-13 and ECM Variable Speed Motor Modules...the modules themselves run about $150.00 for just the module. The motor it self added in if it fails can bring the evaporator motor cost to over $300.00 and thats the contractors cost, before it is marked up and then sold to you. Two compressors equals twice the chance of a failure vs one compressor. The best thing you can do is keep your filters clean, washout the condenser coil every spring and check the evaporator coil and clean if necessary as well. The correct size unit for the space is crucial as well as your duct work being tight with minimal air loss and the MOST IMPORTANT thing you can do is make sure your house is well insulated, windows for sure, door weather stripping and correct attic insulation is a must. Air conditioning is not designed to put cool air in your house, it is designed to remove the heat from it. A typical rule of thumb I've found to is for every degree you lower your stat, it can add around 8% to your bill and that works for heating too. So lets say if you set your thermostat to 72 in June and your utility bill for that cycle is $300.00...then if you set it 2 degrees lower to 70 the next month it will be around $350.00. That is if the outside temps both months are similar. The new smart stats can be effective in better comfort and some modest savings but again, with their cost being considerably higher than a typical no frills thermostat, how long will it take to see some noticeable savings. One thing I can tell you without a doubt is a two compressor unit with the right thermostat that looks at and can control the humidity in the house can be very effective concerning comfort. A 74 degree house with 50% humidity can feel more comfortable than a 72 degree house at 70% humidity. That is where the correct size unit is crucial concerning humidity. One thing that never works is one unit conditioning both downstairs and upstairs. Upstairs ALWAYS has to have it's own unit. And with the newer units having two compressors, you can now put say a 5 ton unit in place of a correctly sized 3 ton unit in an upstairs because most people especially in the south know that in the hottest months, the upstairs unit runs from 10 am to 10 pm just about non stop and usually can't bring the temp down lower than 76 in the heat of the day. But if you install an over-sized unit with two compressors, it can run one compressor in the typical months and reach set point and can bring in additional help with the 2nd compressor and more air flow in the hotter months when they struggle the most.Hope this helps.
Comments often have more value then the video. Thanks for sharing. This past year I found two major heaters that I repaired. Poor insulation in a recess ceiling that would always hit 120, and bath skylight, poorly insulated with 120 degrees in summer. These two fixes made my 13 seer 4 ton AC work so much better
Man I am trying to figure out the bs from the truths from half the ac guys that came to my house. I am in south Florida (hot and humid) and my old system is a Trane XR14 (4 ton, 14 seer single stage). House is 2000sq ft and 1 floor but with 20 ft vaulted ceilings in the center. I am told go single , then I am told a 2 stage variable is better for my house (Trane) ; and Rheem is underpowered ; and Lennox is a Cadillac ... I just want the best sized 4 ton : 48000 btu and if single or variable is the best?
I also live in Florida. What you need is INSULATION, windows on the correct side of the home and an old fashioned, high quality a/c system. The unit I currently have is a modified 35 year old unit. New systems last 10 years. Older, less efficient systems last nearly forever. It all depends on what you consider "efficiency" is. If you have to replace something every 6 to 10 years, it's NOT efficient...
also its not efficient if the new unit has to run longer then the old one for the same results we replaced our condenser same siz as old one and it has to run way more then the old one its only 6 years old and has done nothing but break down and run nonstop even though its correctly charged it is now broken again and as a result fixing to be replaced we have 2 14 seer ruud units we upped the tonage on the downstairs unit and it cools great hardly needs to run will maintain 70 in the house the best the upstairs unit did was 78 its getting replaced likely by a 3.0 ton. pretty much all the upstairs unit did was run the electric bill up worse then the old 10 seer Armstrong.
SuperJeremi10 All the "efficiency" translates to is the fact that it can more easily transfer heat and cold, in and out of the system. The only way they have figured out to do that? Make the materials as THIN as possible. The coils are SO THIN that you could take a can of Pepsi, pour it on the outside coils and probably destroy them within 10 minutes. In this case, EFFICIENT = CHEAP !
Some energy companies exaggerate concepts and use key words to sell sell sell. Why are they assuming that unit lost seer rating over the years? As long as compressor has good valves and coils are cleaned the seer will be the same. The house insulation factor plays a much higher role in energy costs as it deteriorates.
That old Carrier should have been installed with the condenser coil facing away from the house to help improve airflow in addition to keeping the shrubs away from it.
Great video and explanation guys. I'm in Oregon and are just getting ready to have a 3.5 Ton 14.5 SEER A/C unit installed. Our house (built in 2000) didn't have an A/C unit installed, probably because we only use A/C 4-5 months out of the year. The brand we're looking to have installed is a Luxaire LX Series.
"This unit is a 6 or 8 SEER unit" 17 year old unit would make this a 1995 model. Strange, The legislation took effect in 1992 was passed requiring a minimum SEER rating of 10
Can we talk about them saying the heat is rejected out the side of the condenser coil? When air is induced through the coils and pushed out the top by the out door fan.
I've had a few occasions to compare the energy cost + repairs over time for 13 seer systems vs higher efficiency systems and in each case the additional cost of maintenance on the higher seer unit more than offset the energy cost savings that it offered. There is a lot more to go wrong with variable this, that and the other and it does. I'm not a fan of pouring more money into energy than necessary. I would rather put a portion of the savings into routine maintenance services, but it takes practically nothing in terms of unplanned repairs to tip the balance. So, I say go ahead and look at the newest most bad-ass system you can, but then factor in the best coverage you can get as well. Then run the numbers. If there really is a credible savings including the cost of repair coverage then the fancy high seer unit with all the "artificial intelligence" built in makes sense. Not overlooking comfort level. Granted, newer technology does more in that regard. Balance your wants and needs.
I am a HVAC tech. They are correct on all the technical information provided in this video. I have changed my 15 year old unit for a 21.5 SEER w/ HEPA filter and UV light w/ charcoal filter system. What a major improvement in air quality and cost of electricity. This show is great. Several tips I did was to insulate the electrical outlet and switches and finally install on the east and west facing windows a UV heat film from The Home Depot. I am saving now close to $230 in the summer time per month. My unit is also solar ready. I can run it just on 5 100 watt panels. I love this. All this tips come from watching this show.
That's right. Wait a little till that newly super efficient unit starts breaking down on you and see how much it is to fix it comparing to the good old ones. Then sit down and calculate how much money you will actually save.
Doctor Energy Saver 😂. Every homeowner should watch this video to have a better idea about their AC unit 💯👍. I like how well explained everything is for the average people!
The air-conditioner unit locates inside the house; the water drainer system was not perfectly designed. I cleaned up after the first water leaking, and then it leaked again after two weeks. Finally, I found they installed two 90 degree PVC which causing clogging. So, I had to remove one of the 90 degree PVC. Since then, there have not much problems...
More bells and whistles on those high effiecincies cost more to buy and more to go wrong leading to higher costs to maintain and repair. Plus 410a freon runs at approximately double the pressures and more pressures mean more leaks. Nothing to worry about there, huh... I think I'll keep my old R-22 unit as long as I can. It doesn't leak and keeping the filters clean and washing the condensor coil with a water hose on a regular basis keeps my unit humming along.
SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, not rating. I'm in the process of buying a new unit and learned this today. Thought I'd point out the mistake lol.
You misunderstood the information you were given the higher the Seer the higher the efficiency I also don't know what you mean by rating. Air conditioning systems are rated by the Seer rating.
@@6barry66 Didn't you watch the video? He said "rating" (1:44 mark). Should be ratio. Not sure what you're talking about in the rest of your comment. I didn't question anything about "higher the Seer the higher the efficiency".
My comment was from a different video not yours it's somehow got mixed up on RU-vid and ended up on you my comment was not directed at you. It was to a different video.
A lot of people bad mouth forced air systems by saying they spread dust but it's probably because they don't change the filters and clean the units regularly. My system removes dust because I keep it clean like I'm supposed to.
dont care about his old one, question would be what could be a good midrange seer? for the money. Is variable speed worth it? Do a maintenance video later.
This is nothing but a SALES PITCH from these two salesmen. I am a retired engineer and would not buy anything from someone that pushes the pitch without having metrics to backup their argument. Both the condenser coil and the evaporator are heat exchanges that may see some loss in their operation but nobody should be replacing their ac unit just for that reason. Washing your condenser coil with a garden hose a few times per season will ensure a favorable and efficient operation.
this "expert" is looking at a 2 dollar piece of armor flex like its hurting the efficiency and thinks a 12,000 dollar unit is the fix. BTW the suction line is the SUCTION line. The compressor is where folks? figure that out. The liquid line is the discharge so which way is it flowing? these people have no clue how a AC works but will be happy to sell you the most expensive one they can find.
High efficiency equals smaller compressor which has to work harder resulting in shorter life span. No thanks. I'll keep my 25 year old Lennox for another 20 years.
That house looked like a complete mess. It was obvious nobody cleaned the house and then you wonder why your daughter has allergies. It's called a lazy mom that allows dust mite to wage havoc in a home. Replacing a AC isn't going to fix the problem.
Hecket: This is because people are LAZY... and their main priority is their Smart Phone (probably the latest and greatest), Internet and TV... everything else who cares because as long as that smart phone is in their hand so they can be on social media being in everyones business ... they are happy and as long as the ac is working... who cares right..??
OK- What does a 3 ton complete heating and cooling high seer unit cost- retail- wholesale- and what does the installation cost? What would the difference in the electricity be between and old unit and a high seer unit operation for a year? Thanks
Not much different! If you wanted to do energy saving, just turn off the water heater after using. I saved $45.00 last month by turn-off water heater about three times.
@@HsingSun why don't u install an automatic water heater shut off. I got mine from Lowes. It works great and my power bill for 2300 sqft 2 story house is just 114$ a month. I am on here because my AC is old and may conk out anytime so I am preparing myself with info.
If for example, I buy a 15-16 SEER system, I pay how much more than for a 13 SEER system? Then the manufacturer requires a yearly tech check up at how much for the service? How much does the duct cleaning cost? How much does the electronic air cleaner cost? After putting out all of this extra monies, when does my pay back start to kick in for the "high efficiency" system Doesn't high efficient mean using less energy (electricity)? Are these fair questions to ask?
Sounds like they are just trying to sell new units... I somehow doubt most of their "facts" about low-efficiency units and their "iceberg" model.... maybe look for this information from someone who is unbiased! (i.e., not a company selling high efficiency units...) Also as many others pointed out that first unit they show is probably 10 SEER if it was installed in 1995. And yes watching 4 years later in 2016 lol
I have an American standard platinum series from 2012 4 ton variable speed Seer of 18 HSPF of 10 It is running great. Is there any reason to be looking at replacing this. Can I get better efficiency that would be economical.
What about a 1982 model? What would be the typical seer rating be? We have a very old Coleman still running, but we upgraded to 19 and 21 seer mini splits ... The nice thing is the original gas furnace still works, which is generator friendly for the most part
I need Techs to check new clean RA filter 'fpm velocities', starting with a popularly used 16X25 filter of various types so we can divide the velocity in fpm into the CFM flow volume to get the filters Ak (open air area).. Example; 800-CFM / 250-fpm = 3.2-Ak. Most filter areas are way undersized as is a lot of duct systems leading to very poor performance in both heating & cooling modes... Publish the results here...! Thank you, Darrell AKA udarrell
If you get 4 HVAC "experts" in the same room, you'll likely get FIVE different recommendations for your system, each one claiming the others don't know what they are talking about. (In my experience in Florida.)
sucky part is these newer units after about 2 years start breaking down every year 8( i did a/c from 2004 to 2007 and have had seen some new units thrown onto some friends house and very few last without any problems my exs house has been installed for just over 5 years and has broken down the last three summers (YORK) i am not at all impressed with the quality of the newer units spend thousands and it doesnt even last
Your lack of knowledge is spewing out of your face. I ran into an AC sales guy on a golf course and he said the cold air came from the cold line of the unit. I cracked up and walked away. He’s not getting education at my expense. I couldn’t tell you how many schools I’ve been to in my 40+ years in this field. I have been entertained thanks for the video.
High-efficiency units cost 40% more to repair down the road because they have 2 compressors in the unit outside, it causes your unit outside not only to run in the summer but also the winner. Which makes it work double time, not good! I had a heat pump finally was able to got rid of it. I’ll never will go back again! I guess you have to live in learn, the hard way? Just my opinion not trying to make anyone mad.
i have a goodman 1998 Heat Pump unit.. When I replace it, should I get another heat pump or downgrade to just AC unit? I live in Florida, so heat is really not a necessity.
This A/C Video is one gigantic Commercial' The one HVAC Tech asking Dr. Air Condoning lots of softball questions. Question from HVAC Tech: Dr A/C what is your favorite color for an A/C system?
I would prefer a 6 or 8 seer system over the new crap. The energy needed to cool the house from an a/c with the same tonnage has changed very little. And I have had customers say that have paid more in the new system than the old.
I've had techs check my air conditioners every year since I bought this house 14 yrs ago & they've never once cleaned the coils in the air box one time. In Houston the tech don't come out to fix or repair air conditioner's they're come out to sell you a new one.
they are either lazy or they are masters of understanding super heat and/or sub cool...perhaps it doesn't need cleaning but i like to at least sanitize...use your gut to decide who you can trust. If you have to see your AC guy more than 3 times a year, reasonably speaking due to age of your system, then you might worry. That being said...sometimes the application or installation was never correct. if you feel within reason that your system is working well and you don't have to think about it for whatever various reasons....you're probably fine. BUT it is 14 years old...be ready soon to replace as they don't make anything like they used to.
I cleaned my zig zig or A A coil evap and it was a b*** took my 4 hrs start to finish and it was bad, but woah what a difference my air is better cleaner stronger colder and cools faster
Hi Paul. Thanks for watching! We do have a certified dealer in Philadelphia that might be able to help you! www.drenergysaver.com/energy-audit-contractors/pennsylvania/3459-home-smart.html
Excellent video. Very informative and useful. I wonder what going from a 1988 3 ton unit (that I have now) to a new unit will save me? I'm about to find out since I'm getting a new unit.
I've noticed that when my AC (1970 model) clicks on, my lights dim down, along with all the nearby streetlights. I'm no expert but I think it might just be time to upgrade.
god...when new, the Carrier Tech2000 started out as a 10 seer. nowadays, it's probably running at close to factory specs. I'll say 8-10 seer. if matched, I'd estimate this could be bumped up to a 11 or 12 seer. however, this homeowner was incompetent and said "oh, i don't need maintenance. it's fine." and that isn't a concator, it's a G** D*** CAPACITOR! and the highest seer rating as of yet is 24 SEER. NICE Carrier Infinity/Performance series condenser!
If I have a 20-year old Trane XL1200 air conditioner from around 1995-1996, would the SEER rating in 2016 still be at 12, or would it be lower? And if lower, how low?
maybe a max of 1 seer less its getting old but still quality repair it till its dead dont get this crap they are selling now it lasts about 2 years of good running then starts breaking down almost yearly after that motors and compressors....sorry even maintenance doesn't stop a motor from seizing up all they can do is check the caps and amp flows
It's not the heat from the house it's the gas that's hot and the out side unit with the assist of the fan helps get ride of the heat when the gas reaches the evaporator coil it turns into a cold liquid and the proses is continued again once it gets back to the compressor
wow talk about a sales pitch, wrong flow their bud. the dirty wires and grill are about right but can be cleaned up easytired of sales reps upselling to people and coning them into spending
You know... one thing that i really annoys me... When someone asks you a question and in your answer you include the question IN the answer... Like what is the difference between single stage and dual stage AC... Answer is, well the difference between single stage and dual is X .... When someone asks you a question, just give them the answer.. What does SEER mean, answer is X ...
The bottom line is this the bigger the radiator on the outside relative to its size the less money it cost to operate and the more efficiently it works. There is no new technology being employed here just make the radiator bigger and the unit is called 14 Seer or 16 Seer or 20 Seer or 25 seer. While there are other small improvements like more accurate expansion valves the bulk of the high efficiency rating is the size of the condenser. Higher inefficiency you go though the more gadgets there are to go wrong and the greater the amount of the repair bills and I wonder whether there is even any payback over 20 years. Usually your electrical provider will do an energy audit for your house and put all this in writing for you for free. Maybe we should try that before we just run out and buy a new unit.
Get someone that knows what they are talking about next time. That's a 10 seer not a 4, 6, or 8. And it's only got one compressor. So much false information spewed by this guy. He's a salesman that has no idea what the hell he's talking about. Sell a customer a system like this claiming to have two compressors and watch them own your ass in court when they figure the truth out.
Bullshit. I don't believe they have made a central air system that was ever a 6 - 8 SEER equivalent since the early 1900's. Carrier never made one that was factory direct and properly installed that was under 10! Interesting they never mention a word about break even on investment times on your new AC system when compared to electrical costs saved which means that for the 300 - 500watt of electrical power you are savings it could take 30 - 50+ years to break even on your power bill reduction to which effect the new AC unit is unlikely to ever last that long. What they do mention is don't forget to buy that extended warranty because that $2000 (their cost) POS high SEER rated unit they hit you for $5000+ (for 1 - 2 guys to do 4 - 8 hours of work) to install is going to die well before it ever pays for itself. Especially so if it was installed to replace a perfectly functioning older unit that still ran at an honest 10+ SEER as used average. Sorry but I'm with everyone else who has an old clunker that runs well. Mines ~35 years old, It's paid for and does its job well even if its as tested SEER is 'only ~ 13'.
where i live, there is few honest hvac buisness or quailified techs to work on the latest greatest multispeed superduper ultra custom high efficient 20 stage compressor, but warning they will get fined and everyone does life in prison, if they do a change out, and dont change over the refrigerant to the new stuff that hasnt came out yet. and they are only required to change out the air handler as a complete unit, unless its hard to install. guys before you let anyone try to get you to remortgage your home make sure your home is insulated well. and there is plenty of used units out there for the ones that cant afford a wifi 19 seer unit to add on a mobile home. to the people that can afford a new unit im not talking to you.
♦️Here is a secret the air conditioner sellers don’t want you to know. Question: Which home air conditioner uses the least amout of electricity? Answer: The one that is off. I live in Northern Wisconsin, USA. A/C unit is 26 years old, no repairs yet. I use the air conditioner less then 30 days a year. Even then, its noirmally only 1/2 a day at a time, so about 350 hours of run time per year. Also, our local utility has restructured their rates such that the fixed portion of the monthly electricity bill is larger and the variable “usage” portion is lower. This new billing structure reduces the energy savings incentive from upgrading to newer, more efficient appliances, or installing your own solar system. The utility did this pricing restructure so low energy users equally support the electric grid during peak demand. People who use solar, it was claimed, hurt the other utility customers because peak energy use is just after sunset, something called the duck curve. Solar owners use less energy when electricity demand is low then pull from the grid at the same time everyone else is too, shortly after sunset. Low cost suppliers to the grid like nuclear need constant demand to be efficient. So solar owners really put a strain on the grid. The new rate structure attempts to correct for these things. Although a new air conditioner unit may be more efficinet, my utilization rate is so low, and variable energy rate so reduced that when I ran the numbers, its not worth updating my air conditioner until the old one fails. By my calculations, payback exceeded 20 years. Now my furnace, which runs about 8 to 9 months a year, is another story. I updated my gas forced air furnace about 7 years ago, as I took advantage of a warranted failed heat exchanger credit. With the discount due to the heat exchanger plus federal government incentive due to the improved efficiency, the post discount payback was under three years, actually 29 months.
He means two speed, not two stage. Only Trane had a 5 ton or less two stage and they dont do it anymore. Two speed is one compressor that runs at two different speeds. a two stage has a second compressor, more seen in commercial due to business needs during a failure or to maintain perishables. Nowadays it's all about the variable speed compressor. That's like the pimp daddy of compressors right now. Duct cleanings dont clean shit and for the money you could toss a bit more and replace the duct. You should filter at the grill to keep the duct clean from start to finish and not at the unit where half the duct gets dirty. If you have metal duct THAT can be cleaned, that would be a different story. If you have like flex duct like most people do, it always gets the crap stuck in the corner of the boxes. Nature of a vacuum. These guys are salesmen but people do what they can and they are trying to do a quality good without the skills and if they copy paste enough, they only need a true tech to talk to from time to time. Most techs are becoming Salesmen and true techs are a thing of the past. That is a pretty nice system 22 year tech-
0:34 Spend a lot on A/C or a *little* on A/C *With little still meaning a lot* Especially of you own a 2* story house, cuz your paying for 2* units for each story. * At least/Or more
no the newer units with 410a they run at higher pressure so they had to make the copper a little thicker ....i cant confirm that though just what i have read i totally agree though these newer units bite!!! the quality is garbage!
Actually they are runningalluminum evaporator coils now and the copper condensors are a little thinner. carrier has gone from a 3/8 condensor tubing to a 7mm copper tubing. Buy a performance series carrier condensor and it will out live you. I started selling that unit back in 08 and have installed over 300 of them. I have yet to lose a single warranty compressor. Most reliable unit I have ever sold since I started in the 80's
@@harryjames5904 I do not have the information to back up that figure. I oil mine once a year with none detergent oil. My HVAC systems has been running for 21 years.
+Joshua's Recordings Can be... Refrigerants have changed... R22 is much lower pressure and hence lower pumping costs. R410 is a pig. The glide is yuck. Much higher pressures. Better to replace all the ducting and clean the Fan Coil. Oh and I was an area manager for Carrier, here in Australia. This video is to sell new A/C units.
+DumbSkippy Yes, I know about the refrigerant change. Also do you know why the inside coil is aluminum on modern units? GE tried that in the 80's and said that it caused the units to leak after 1 or 2 years.
+DumbSkippy Yea, GE wanted to make an aluminum indoor coil so that it would not rust. Though the copper to aluminum tubing would cause leaks, they ended up making the entire system aluminum. I had a cheap Frigidaire air con in my shop. It leaked after 2 years! Replaced it with a 1960's Philco Ford that still worked great!
I live in florida.What you need is GOOD insulation first and cool attic or cool roof (white)!!! Then you can easily run 1-2 ton less unit for the same comfort inside and for way less energy !! You guys just giving promotion to carier,not talking real efficiency !!!! I have good insulation and solar AC,That is real efficiency my friends...
MB031 You are correct The efficiency is in the whole picture ...It doesn't make sense to install seer17 in a home with bad insulation and undersized duct work. You will get more bang for the buck by investing in insulation and proper attic venting.. You can do that yourself.While you are insulating check on your ducts for losses as well.Sounds like you have made a good choice
Thanks. The big difference is just putting the ductwork and airhandler into conditioned space or try to achieve cool attic as much as possible.Build bigger plenum and change small ducts to bigger diameter for less pressure drop and higher volume of flow,of course tight and clean ductwork is a must !Thus you can downsize blower motor too.Well insulated house and cool attic or roof is capable downsize AC unit about 1 or 2 tons and that's a huge difference.In south florida, the biggest issue is latent heat and attics can't be ventilated with hot and humid air here! Installing roof fan brings humidity into attic space.There are many hard conditions in florida to overcome,but once humidity is under control,the higher temps is not a big deal to take care of...
+Brian Ellsworth I doubt a 10 SEER unit running for 17 years would still have the same efficiency level. It would probably be running at 6 SEER given components get worn and all the junk blocking the evaporator on that particular case. So bang for buck, the one or two ton gained by insulation would be nothing compared to what the more efficient unit (or even regular servicing) can provide. Not to say one should not insulate, but that's not always the answer.
+Susana Godinho Yes your running hours are greater in Florida as our cooling season is only 8 weeks. If the valves still hold and the coils are clean your seer value may not be as bad as you suspect..Electric rates always go up and summers are getting warmer.That also causes higher energy cost.First check the duct sizes and the r value of the insulation on the ducts..R8 is code ..A 17 year old ac probably has R4 and is probably no longer tight and has air loss in unconditioned spaces . Also make sure the return is large enough .You must first determine the heat load for the house ..You then select the correct tonnage . the you need an air handler that can supply enough air.. roughly 400- 450 CFM per ton ... The most critical calculation is sizing the duct correctly for each room..If you install a high efficiency unit without doing the basics the seer value will not be accurate.Scroll compressors can be more efficient as they wear in. reciprocating compressors, NO LONGER USED FOR AC, can hold for many years with out losing capacity .This video will have you believe that the missing insulation on the suction line will cost you money .. So far from accurate because the gas is returning to the compressor and not going into the house . since the the compressor is only two feet away it would be beneficial to flash off any gas at that point...It only looks ugly,, Amor flex is really cheap . A variable speed ac is a good idea ,but they are a new idea and the reliability is unknown ... expensive repairs can negate any savings
That families equipment just needs cleaning, filter change education, vegetation trimming and re-wrap the suction line for another 5-10 years of reliable operation - $300-500. This is a thinly-disguised commercial.
I get the point of this video but they fail to explain its really amazing and good value that this AC lasted 17 years. I live near the ocean in Florida and we only get 10 to 13 years at best. In fact, my 10 year old Tempstar has large sections of fins missing from deterioration. These guys are hating on this 17 year unit but a I would kill for that reliability. I went through 2 blower fan motors on the damn thing and will buy buying a new coastal rated system. I'm about to get broke.
Our Goodman AC lasted 18 years, still works just low on R22 (which is illegal now) and the A-Coil now has leaks. We have an HVAC friend that had a few spare tanks of R22 and he recharged it and it's working again for now until we buy a new unit.
These guys are completely full of bs. The big line which is the return line is insulated to prevent condensate moisture and missing insulation on the exterior won't hurt efficiency. One thing to know on your high efficiency models is that they gain efficiency by using thinner walled copper. The downside is the life of the condensing coil and evaporator coils is greatly reduced and especially on new houses in which formeldahyde is still leaching out of the OSB, etc.
I need to do my AC homework. What I am gathering is that the new 410a units run at a higher pressure through thinner pipes. If that is true, this is all straight ripoff in disquise.
