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The Do's And Dont's of Alpine QuickDraws 

BetaClimbers
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Alpine quickdraws are a must! You would be very surprised how many people build their quickdraws wrong. If that's you I hope this video demystifies it for you. If you found it useful let me know. And thank you for all the support It keeps me going.
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3 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 88   
@Yaimdan
@Yaimdan 2 года назад
That was actually exactly what i wanted to see. Whyyy the alpine quick draw can be clipped anywhere and it will still work. Seeing you explain how it was spooled up helped
@rikvdmark
@rikvdmark 2 года назад
Exactly, it’s not just about knowing how to do something but understanding why 💪
@rogertaylor6
@rogertaylor6 2 года назад
Good video. From a teaching standpoint, I think it's best to show the correct way to shorten it, then show the wrong ones afterwards. Short attention spans out here in youtube land, so first thing to get across is how to do it right.
@nogelymatyas
@nogelymatyas 2 года назад
This is super useful. I remember when I shower this to my climbing friend who started climbing way earlier than me and was amazed by the simplicity and usefullnes of it. Nice explanation on the table. Thanks Josh!
@pedrourcola6288
@pedrourcola6288 2 года назад
Super useful and super clear video.Great job! I could follow the steps you showed without difficulty. I use alpine quickdraws in big walls and this is going to come in very handy. Much appreciated, Thanks!
@feelinghealingfrequences7179
@feelinghealingfrequences7179 2 года назад
come on...beta climber can so better...like use a rope on bench...please consider actual demonstrations with a climbing rope and insert clips from climbing trad of doing the draw clips
@davidwright7193
@davidwright7193 2 года назад
The really big thing about “alpine” quickdraws is how flexible they are. One piece is a short QD, medium QD, a long QD and a 120cm sling. When leading a trad climb having a lot of different tools to solve the problems of the climb with is important especially without adding to the amount of kit carried.
@jesseberg538
@jesseberg538 2 года назад
Thank you, Josh! So essential, and perfectly explained!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 года назад
🤙🏻
@jackmclaughlin9161
@jackmclaughlin9161 Год назад
Thank u thank u. Love u bro!
@PoochyMishaps
@PoochyMishaps 9 месяцев назад
Came to the channel for fails, learned a cool trick. Right on!
@fabiofrongia3299
@fabiofrongia3299 5 месяцев назад
beautiful explanation and visualization!
@damienmitchell9828
@damienmitchell9828 2 года назад
Awsome deffo the video I never knew I needed
@shelm-b8p
@shelm-b8p 2 года назад
Thanks. Very well explained
@coryupton669
@coryupton669 Год назад
This is why I subscribe to your channel. Amazing video, thank you for teaching me the right way.
@jochenrichter2337
@jochenrichter2337 2 года назад
Hey, thank you for the great Visuali-'dingsbums' (🤪 how we would say in Germany). When I come back home, I'll try it out myself emidiat-'dingsbums'... Greetings from Cologne Jochen
@thorstenkoch194
@thorstenkoch194 2 года назад
Great vid, thanks! You could add a section about why and how and how not to fix the rope-side biner of an alpine quick draw.
@Hendershot93
@Hendershot93 2 года назад
I love your videos man! Keep up the good work my friend!
@Biamondos982
@Biamondos982 11 месяцев назад
Thank you!
@chaosengine4597
@chaosengine4597 2 года назад
Difficult to explain, but you nailed it.
@RPD_ps
@RPD_ps 2 года назад
Thank you very much for this video!
@chadfilbert1366
@chadfilbert1366 2 года назад
Working early today!!
@johnparla6252
@johnparla6252 2 года назад
Started out with trad no bolts in Caneticut and always had alpine drows
@shanalucille
@shanalucille Год назад
Hey man, thank you!
@stuff2climb102
@stuff2climb102 2 года назад
Great video and good tips! I hate it when I loan someone my quickdraws for a lead and they come back all twisted and terrible.
@QuentinLeCalvez
@QuentinLeCalvez 2 года назад
Thanks!
@james0000
@james0000 2 года назад
Thank you for the video. Always seems to be well thought out information.
@timonix2
@timonix2 Год назад
I might start carrying one made from aramid instead of dyneema. Still 22Kn, slightly heaver. But it also functions as a prusik.
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers Год назад
They say Aramid isn’t good against shock loading, so it wouldn’t make a good quick draw id say.
@ivanpaskalev9863
@ivanpaskalev9863 Год назад
Thanks for video! What about falling on alpin quickdraws
@AskTheKid
@AskTheKid 2 года назад
Video on dynema vs nylon vs polyester etc
@sunnyape314
@sunnyape314 Год назад
The Dos And Don'ts of using apostrophes to differentiate between contraction and plurals :)
@jeffb.1555
@jeffb.1555 2 года назад
Nice work!!
@PoochyMishaps
@PoochyMishaps 9 месяцев назад
@BetaClimbers I WAS MESSING AROUND WITH THIS! IT'S IMPORTANT NOT TO CLIP 2 LINES OF THE SLING! Slipped right out. Looked like the carabiner grabbed 2, pulled on it, caught zero, fell on the ground.
@1stWolverine
@1stWolverine 2 года назад
Everything you just said at the end is basically my climbing history.
@hjeffcoat42
@hjeffcoat42 2 года назад
Sick video!
@feelinghealingfrequences7179
@feelinghealingfrequences7179 2 года назад
wishing u had covered the double length sling and how to clip it alpine odd number of strands in biner means it wont fall out when u extend and cover how to clean an alpine draw to easily exchange gear at next belay hint u can alpine a draw while its still attached to rope after unclipping it from gear or put them over the shoulder and rack them over the shoulder with one biner only per sling
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 года назад
That’s what I do just throw them over my shoulder when cleaning the pitch. 🤙🏻 I’ll looks into that trick you mentioned.
@rowanrossi5964
@rowanrossi5964 2 года назад
awesome
@driley9286
@driley9286 2 года назад
Legit tip 👍🏽
@joromo666
@joromo666 2 года назад
Bon travail, mon ami! It's pièce de résistance, btw. 🙂 With alpine QDs, I often worry about back-clipping, which becomes less obvious when sling is extended vs regular QDs. Am I over-thinking?
@blitzroute66
@blitzroute66 2 года назад
The flop in the longer quick draw makes it much less of a problem as it can twist and float a lot more anyway
@davidwright7193
@davidwright7193 2 года назад
Yes.
@frankwilliams5766
@frankwilliams5766 2 года назад
What is your suggested method for shoulder length slings? They are so long I end up doing what you did here, plus adding a twist, and I just can't imagine that is the right way. Thanks.
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 года назад
Like this length? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zz4no1T8bfQ.html
@davidwright7193
@davidwright7193 2 года назад
120cm slings over the shoulder at full length or doubled/tripled as QD’s. 240cm slings doubled with a twist over the shoulder with the karabiner at the front (if your wearing a rucksack underneath and inside the shoulder strap is best that way it’s easiest to pull out). 480cm I will fold twice and then twist up before folding again and clipping to the back of the harness and on a screw gate as that is almost certainly belay building gear.
@Hikergy16
@Hikergy16 2 месяца назад
What size is the standard sling when building alpine draws?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 месяца назад
@@Hikergy16 1 foot to 2 foot extension is the norm but the beauty of it is you can experiment with what works for you in different situations.
@HeresJonnie
@HeresJonnie 5 месяцев назад
Does it matter if the biner is opposing or facing the same direction?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 5 месяцев назад
That’s a good question. You typically want the rope falling opposite the gate, so I’d want them facing the same way so I can quickly clip it with the spin up on both sides.
@jordanlewis3790
@jordanlewis3790 2 года назад
are you related to bill perry the BMXer?
@ehgeese
@ehgeese 2 года назад
My favourite quick and dirty bolted (with rings) anchor build: Alpine draw, unfold, larksfoot to one of the bolts. Other bolt, use the two biners of the alpine draw opposite and opposed. Make your masterpoint knot of choice, and you are done!
@ehgeese
@ehgeese 2 года назад
Obviously don't larksfoot your slings to bolts with sharp edges, only do this with rings or round glueins.
@nothingbutsoundofficial
@nothingbutsoundofficial 2 года назад
Such good content mate :+1:
@itrstt66
@itrstt66 Год назад
i totally love this, and i have a question that has been nagging me around. Do you see any use and/or advantge into making an alpine quickdraw with rubber holder like the peztl protector? Because i allways have this feeling of cross loading being way more probable on alpine draws, and then again it feelslike a bit of an offshute using those rubber holders on alpine draws, it would mess with the ease of redundancy
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers Год назад
You might run into other issues like localized wear/tear points or the carabiner unclipping like a hard on hard clip in. I haven’t tried it but the fact that no one else does it make me weary…
@itrstt66
@itrstt66 Год назад
@@BetaClimbers what do you mean by hard on hard clip in?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers Год назад
@@itrstt66 if you clip to carabiners into each other they can easily spin around and unclip themselves this why the rubber part on draws are always on the rope end.
@itrstt66
@itrstt66 Год назад
@@BetaClimbers i see, and now i am not following how does it relate to The question.. i am totally clueless
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers Год назад
@@itrstt66 so if you solidify the carabiner it could unclip easier in some cases I’d think.
@thepointlessvideo100
@thepointlessvideo100 Год назад
Are there any risks to using a dyneema sling for this with regards to falling and shock loading?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers Год назад
For quick draws you always have the rope that will prevent a high shock. But yeah nylon slings stretch more then a dyneema one will. But dyneema is lighter and less bulky.
@thepointlessvideo100
@thepointlessvideo100 Год назад
@@BetaClimbers oooh, I didn't think of that. So ultimately the stretch in the rope would absorb most of the impact reducing the load on the draw. Thanks
@ShurikB93
@ShurikB93 2 года назад
if you fold it in half and put the second in sliding -x it won't be a problem
@ShurikB93
@ShurikB93 2 года назад
My bad, he said that later
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 года назад
🤙🏻
@benhefel3095
@benhefel3095 Год назад
Like all things, just watch a couple youtube videos on safety and you are good to go.
@recorpse9698
@recorpse9698 2 года назад
id consider falling on a nut to be the biggest wiggle there is so how exactly are you supposed to avoid wiggling it?
@raphaelbeinhauer9242
@raphaelbeinhauer9242 2 года назад
If you fall on it you are jamming it into the crack, unless it's placed incorrectly. While climbing, the wiggling would act in a different direction, opposite of the way it is meant to be loaded.
@recorpse9698
@recorpse9698 2 года назад
@@raphaelbeinhauer9242 I dont mean once your weight gets stopped by it I mean when you ball you pull the rope which can wiggle the nut, once your weight is cought however as you said it would pull it down into the rock... but before that Is what im talking about
@tobbepysslare5146
@tobbepysslare5146 2 года назад
@@recorpse9698 With the alpine sling the sling takes (most of) all the wiggle unlike the sport QD which has stiff slings. There´s always a risk that enough wiggle still can make the nuts pop out but that´s why you place them as correct as you can, place many of them (many in this case being very subjective) and/or use friends/cams.
@recorpse9698
@recorpse9698 2 года назад
@@tobbepysslare5146 understandable. I don't really climb tho I wish I did. I really should start going out to climbing gyms and stuff but my extreme social anxiety being on my own makes it near impossible as I am now
@marnixvanderkolk
@marnixvanderkolk Год назад
What's the magic?? You can clip any one you want??? 1 of the 3 will make you pull the whole sling out of the top liner. That's also why you never put that one on with a rubber retainer or tape.
@christophh9477
@christophh9477 Месяц назад
You didnt finish the video did you? Yes you can clip in any one, very nicely shown why.
@kiefmanning7394
@kiefmanning7394 2 года назад
You must drink more than me
@pepochineseman2987
@pepochineseman2987 2 года назад
Ha! 🤣😁😆😳
@vojtatomek9459
@vojtatomek9459 2 года назад
29th
@gravyblue
@gravyblue 2 года назад
It wasn't useful for me. Not because it's not an excellent video, but because I already knew!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 2 года назад
Yeah it’s a climbing basic video I think I have to get more organized and make a playlist of “essential skills” or something and I’ll add this. Thanks for the comment. 🤙🏻
@CatoCarter
@CatoCarter 5 месяцев назад
This guy talks too much. Little information. Just him trying to be relevant
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 5 месяцев назад
Ew!
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