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Good system in theory but the rails tend to open up on the joins, including a haunch makes a massive difference in avoiding this. I think a traditional haunched, mortice and tenon joint wedged up can’t be beaten.
Hi Gary Could you ask Robby if he cuts all his slots (when making a door) using the XL 700's tight-fit setting or whether he combines the looser fit and the tight fit? When should I use the 'snug' fit? Is there a guide or rule he might suggest? Plus...has someone already asked which glue he would recommend? This video has really sold me on the tool. I am going to make my own doors and ditch the MDF veneered doors. Thanks Peter
That is an okay way to make a door but not as good as cutting a groove all the way on the inside of the stiles and rails and having a stub tenon to fill it as well as a full tenon into the stiles. If you are going to cut a groove with a router you could do it in a router table or better yet a shaper and have decent dust collection and eliminate the chance that you let the router tip and mess up one of your parts. That technique is probably strong enough but a full tenon would be better. Also what is up with using contact adhesive to glue the panels together? Why not use yellow glue?
The extra length on the stiles gets cuts off when the door is ready for fitting, doing it this way removes the chance of damaging the bottom corners during manufacture and transit...
Me too. I almost bought a domino jointer...but for not too much more I bought a tenoner that can scribe and offset the shoulders. Plus I got a morticer really cheap.
A single piece of timber will usually have an inclination to bend or warp one way or the other. By pairing 2 pieces back to back you can greatly reduce or eliminate this tendancy, and your door will stay flat and true for years to come.
I made some doors and windows for my house in Tuscany. (Larch wood). The first window (app. 3" thick) warped badly within a season as the temperatures vary greatly. For subsequent windows and external doors (some up to 8 feet high), I glued together 2 pieces each 1.5" thick. I tried to make sure that the grain of the wood was opposing, and where the wood I used was already slightly warped I was able to make the odd saw-cut to help straighten it out before gluing. The resulting pieces were very strong and 5years later no sign of warping, although there is the odd crack here and there. But the catches and locks still all line up and draught-exclusion isn't compromised.chris snee
+chris snee The idea is to improve the stability of the wood. For further reading, thats the term to look for. Theres a lot more that goes into making a door than is explained in the video. (also a lot more machinery than shown..)
and a stupid boy every sec you'll never get rich using credit cards to buy your tools or gitting 5 tools to do the job a router can do and my cosco router out lasted my dewalt and Milwaukee
+jason mooney This guy is a pro, he'll make the $1300 back in a couple of days on the time he saves. Good luck cutting all those mortises with a router and making a living - nobody is going to pay you to spend an extra day on anything unless it actually adds value
This was a helpful video, and a good method to avoid cope and stick joinery for paneled doors. BE ADVISED: when using the bottom bearing rabbet bit panel grooving method, the router bit shank on your tool must be smaller than the bearing on your rabbet bit. I found this out the hard way, but was in a hurry. Upon closer inspection of the video, the doorman uses what looks like the same size bearing and arbor? In my experience the rabbet bits I had were fillet coved at the shank + cutter head connection, and if the shank arbor is equal to or larger than the bearing, it will round over the upper inside corner of the panel groove (doh!). To prevent this round over, and lacking bit and bearing options on hand, I could flip the door and reference the other slab face with the router, rather than referencing the same face for both passes and adjusting the plunge of the rabbet bit. Thankfully it was hurried scenery. Good method though! It worked really well! Building anything is living and learning! Thanks again
The fact that their pizza is horribly bad is not what's most amazing about them, what is most amazing is the fact that they've have flourished and are profitable...
Great job on the video and the door...the Domino does make it a lot faster and easier than typical fixed mortise and tenon joint without sacrificing strength!
Probably because it was the nearest one to hand. Just the tool I've been using today to make a cabinet. My smaller routers where at the end of the shed and my 2200 was nearer.
Great video / advertisement , but why glue two sheets of plywood together, that’s too much work. Use a sheet of 1/2” and it will be much better then spray adhesive.
Nice video on making simple custom doors. Appreciate the tips ! The Domino definitely makes the process much easier and faster, but I don't do enough doors to warrant it's high price. In fact I've never made a door .
Thanks to my domino and my '2200 router. And my jointer, and my thicknesser, and my table saw, and my docking saw in my small shop. And if you spend $25,000 on machinery you too can make this $200.00 because buying machinery automatically endows you with the skills you need to operate the machinery.
Yes,that's a quick way of making doors,the only critisism I have is,I spotted that the grains on a panels will run horizontly instead vertically.Watch for that ,next time you make a panel door.Regards
I enjoyed this video very much. However! (1) Wear a mask when using the router, (2) the aerosol adhesive - I hope this was not one of those which use CFCs as the gas spray - not environmental friendly. Having said my piece. I think you have a great combination of tools for the job in a world where speed and costs have overtaken detailed workmanship and in this case, I agree with you respecting the versatility of the Festool Domino, even though they are expensive. Many thanks for taking the time to produce this video.
Classic hate on this thread! I use Harbor Freight for some things, but if you're serious about ANY trade, you need to buy good tools. Why would i buy a welder from HF or Home Depot just to show my "garage anarchy" by not getting a Big Blue or Red? Some folks are too eager to be like those idiots remaking AC/DC's Thunderstruck with spoons and bathtubs. Is the Festool worth it? It beats the crap out of using pocket holes that I have to fill with putty and re-sand. The time saved with tools that are designed to do the right job can be utilized to do something else. If you're not counting your own hours when you work, you need to rethink what you're doing. In the end, there isn't a parade and you won't get paid extra for spending all day (like your grandfather did) making a hole.
Great tips and tricks. But more of a Festool infomercial than a how to video. Can't justify spending over a grand for a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.
Traditional M/T joints at top and bottom of door include haunches. Domino joints do not. So far as I know, this lack of haunch hasn't led to problems. If this is correct, it makes me wonder whether traditional use of haunches was really necessary all along. Any thoughts?
I tuned in to see how to make a door and to listen to the merits of Festool. You should indicate that a video is a commercial for Festool and if you got the tool for free for this purpose. Make some sawdust or be clear about your agenda.
SAFETY TIP: his router is plugged in, HOWEVER in the Festool system, the tools are plugged into the DUST collector (shop vacuum)- so called "plug_it" system{ a two pin twist lock plug} that goes into 90% of all of their corded tools, so as to encourage the use of an extractor, as this is designed with construction woodworkers (carpenters/ fitters) in mind.
Good vid Gary, thanks for posting it. Yes, I own the 700XL and agree that this vid is a bit of an infomercial, but that said, the XL is THE way to churn out doors (and heaps of other items too)! The haters really need to go demo a 700XL before spewing their bile about something which they are completely unequipped to speak about -- that just shows everybody what fools you are. The Domino method is shockingly fast and precise. The key is to be sure to get enough tenon meat in the joints. In this case, the Douglas Fir door components are strong, but the beech tenons are much stronger, so the traditional full tenon probably isn't necessary. That said, I would very much like to see some Domino doors after 10 years just to get a feel for what is strong and what is strong enough. About those panels: It didn't appear he took expansion/contraction/swelling of the panels into consideration. Rabbeting the panel slots while assembled is a great idea because the curved corners are buried inside the framing, so from the outside the corners appear nice and straight.
Dear Sir, you need to address your repetitive speech pattern. You talk too much that I had to stop the this presentation after 2 minutes to rest my ears.
I'm new to the router game and I want to build a door. I want to router a gap exactly like shown in this video. I need the gap to be 1/4" to place slats I want in. Is that type of rabbet but that can be bought at any hardware store, or is it a special buy
Is there a reason to mark the rails together and then transfer those marks to the stiles? It seems like an extra unnecessary step when you can just lay out the rails and stiles and mark them in one operation. Shouldn't matter if the dominos are not in exactly the same position on opposite sides of the door, or does it? Thanks. Great video.
What's with the people who perceive every criticizm as "hate"? Chill, sweetie, because by that standard you are Gary Katz's lover. You don't want that.
+Scott Kempik None of this really criticism though. Nobody seems to be referring to a particular problems such as stability or reliability issues. People seem to be critical of Festool but at the same time do not actually give a reason sort of like all of the anti Trump rhetoric that is going around.
"My unbranded biscuit jointer does the same thing" I assure you, I does not lol. The only people that knock festool are people to tight to invest in it. Nothing else compares I promise you that
+buzzsaw301 They are worth the money because they offer both speed and quality at the same time. It means professionals can actually speed up their jobs without actually compromising on quality of finish. Bosch, Makita and Dewalt can offer the same but you really need to hand pick and research their products at times they will not have the innovation of Festool. They are only over priced to those who are not commercial woodworkers.
LOL. In reality, the only thing special here is the Domino. If you have to do a whole house worth of doors and already have a router, sander, and the clamps, you could break even (not counting your time). That would net you a Domino XL but you really have to want to do it.
I'll stick to traditional mortice and tenons for exterior doors and gates, we've seen a lot of loose tennon doors fall apart because the glue failed. Through Mortice, tennon glue and wedged. Dominoe looks good for other applications though
