Building custom exterior doors with Festool Domino XL and Festool OF2200 router 

Nicely done Scott , it turned out great. Gee I'm glad I don't have to deal hanging doors in the snow!!

Thank you for serving the public Sir and thank you for showing the build. Now I’m ready to use my shrink wrapped festool routers and dominoes :)

No shaper and router table, costs avoided, very nice thank you.

Your passion for wood working shows in your project. Thanks for sharing this great door build. I wish I had the money to buy the tools and shop to do what you're doing. Thanks

Your junior Felder slider is definitely a WINNER!!! 😍

Thank you for the advice and congrats on retirement!

Well done Scott! I enjoy watching your attention to detail!!

You can glue up plywood panels. Love the breathing during glue up I do the same thing ! 😂

I really enjoyed watching the build Scott. Thanks for sharing your tips as well!

Great project and good looking door.

Great Job !

Отличная работа! Я учился и учусь по видео как наших, российских мастеров, так и много смотрю видео на английском языке. Спасибо за то, что делитесь своим опытом! Сегодня заказал себе Festool Domino 700. У нас он стоит безумных денег, но надеюсь окупится в работе! Это отличная техника сильно ускоряющая работу в столярной мастерской и делающей ее приятной. Здоровья Вам! И новых работ! (Коллега из России)))

As always Scott great video keep them coming sir, I always like watching your videos and learning something new.

Thanks for the tips! Blessings!

Man Festool really hooks you up. Sweet !!! For you.

Awesome job as always!

Thanks for another great video Scott!! I always learn watching you work! Happy New Year to you and yours!

Thank you for your videos Scott I am a carpenter from Toronto and really enjoyed your video always learn something new

Nice work sir look forward to more projects.

Well, that’s the first video of yours that has come up for me to watch. The first thing must be to congratulate you wholeheartedly for both the content and the presentation - both first class; maybe that’s because it’s senior to senior but I really enjoyed the pace and lack of gimmicks. I’ve been a woodworker for over 45 years and so, most do the doors were made with M&T joints. I still have a great Morticer in the shop but the effort it requires to make the mortises is now really too much for the shoulders. So, it’s Domino time. I make my doors in virtually the same way as you do ( sometimes I use 3 slightly smaller dominos cut in a v shape but the amount of glue area is the critical thing). I haven’t used slow cure epoxy on complex set ups; I’ve relied upon Titebond Extend but I’m soon to build 6 internal doors for our barn conversion and so I’m going to go West. These doors each have a fancy middle rail (shaped cloud lift as in Greene and Greene). It’s not hard to get the lower panel shaped to fit that curved groove using the cloud lift template as a guided. However, the top panel is a stained glass rectangle - which makes fitting it into the top edge of the curved cloud lift less than straight forward (no point in doing things that are easy). I’ve thought of a few ways to make the “mortises” in the stiles and curved rail but each one has positives and negatives. I’ll just make mock ups of each method and see which one works the best. All the critical elements were clearly shown by you. Preparation and precision are the keys. Don’t rush and just keep thinking. The only poster I have in my shops is just 3 words Patience, Precision, Perfection. As my body slowly declines, my working days have to be shorter; if I try and push it, then the standard of work declines because I focus more on the aches and pains than what I’m doing. Interested in your choice of pencil. It clearly does not impact upon the accuracy of your work but Im slightly more hung up about marking than you. For really precision work, I use a knife or perhaps a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. For joinery, I use constantly- sharpened 1 H or 2H pencils for marking and then a 2B for marking references (A and A, Left and Right or whatever). Your simplicity is attractive but I’m too old to change now. Apologies for the long post but the main point is to congratulate you. From a new subscriber

I see you love dewalt! Lol. Great project Sir!

Nice job on the doors. I’m actually gonna try and sell building a couple of them for interior barn doors that someone I know needs. Thanks

Interesting. First joinery video I've seen using Festool gear. Till now, I'd assumed they were cabinet and furniture tools

Great video, Scott! Just subscribed :)

Thank you for the instructional video. I am going to build seven doors for my home in a farmhouse style. I was going to use pine T&G for my inserts but thought about using plywood but wanted the grooves and did not think it would work on plywood. Well, you just demonstrated a fine way of doing it which will help keeping my doors square as well. I have been thinking about the festool 500, to use for my joints using the 10mm. It will be my first Festool tool. I am also a retired police officer in the Buffalo NY area and enjoy my woodworking and retirement. I wish you well and look forward to learning more from you. Respectfully, Jim.

I use 2200 pluged into Festool vacum C26

That shed looks Alsum.

You might as well get a big drum sander and stick that whole door through it.

Nice build. I wonder, did you consider putting in spaceballs in the channels to keep it more in place during winter shifts? I've hand panels get detach from the caulk from excess movement. Trying not to go the full traditional route of weeping holes here.

Just what I needed to help me decide to build by the front door of my home; I just need to purchase the Festool Domino XL; I have the DF 500 Domino. Would that work? Also, showing cutting in the hinges and lick set would be helpful. GREAT VIDEO!

One thing I do before I glue up my rails and stiles is hit the interior long grain edge with a sharp block plane or #4 smoother instead of sanding. Just a couple of passes removes any tear out from jointing or table saw marks. Less chance of the sander rounding the edge, especially on the 3/4" cabinet doors.

Thank you Scott for this very clear and pleasant video. I like the scored plywood idea and plan to use it. I’m planning to build seven 2-panel interior fir doors for a cottage. They would be stained rather than painted. What plywood type and grade would you choose, given that it’s for an interior door panel. Also, is there an actual stamped grade specified for the fir 2x6s that I could look for, other than “finish grade”. Thanks again for your helpful videos.

I'm about to build something similar for MN climate (boat house doors). They are wider than they are tall (5' W x 4.25' T). My plan was to use LP SMARTSIDE for the frame and HDO for the Panel. Do you think the Domino 500 is undersized for mortising the tenons? Unfortunately I don't own the Domino XL....

Scott how have the held up? I’m planning on doing the same build. Has the rails and styles stayed stable? No bowing?

Hi! Nice video, do you have the link for your router bit for slot cutting? Thanks

Another great video Scott, what’s the name of the clamps you were using while dominoing the rails and stiles on the work bench? We got our full amount of snow on the Xmas weekend for the whole season, southern Georgian Bay.

I’ve thought about buying that Festool slider but I don’t like the handle in that position. Prefer the Dewalt design.

Which red clamps are they please?

Great ! 1/2" Router Bit ?

Why epoxy?

What brand is your table saw? I haven't seen that type of sliding saw before.

Are you using framing Doug fur?

But doesn’t using epoxy in place wood glue kind of defeat the purpose of using dominos? Sure you get more surface area for gluing, but are you getting the benefits of long grain to long grain adhesion without using wood glue?

I am buy machine

I take it festool is paying for some influencing here somehow

I have to laugh when you say metric easier than imperial. I think you mean decimal vs fractions!. I worked in a machine shop and we worked in decimal imperial. No fractions 3.500 or.020 (20 thousands) and metric was the pain. +/- 1 thousands of an inch was a good tolerance, easy to use no thermal management required. but it is ,0394thousands to a mm so working to .1mm was 4 thousands, too sloppy and .01 is to precise. Our scales read 1 thru 10 for each inch as in 100 thousands or a tenth of an inch. Calipers or mics are 4 turns to that .100 or .025/turn. But I will admit now that I am into woodworking when people say 3/16 of an inch I think .187 of an inch

Why didn’t you use any Spaceballs or spacers to allow the panel to expand and contract along with the door and not end up with a crack line after you paint it?… Assuming you are going to paint it