Timely video - I also have some white melamine cabinets to make for my laundry room. What do you use to make your shelf pin holes? Line boring machine, drilling template or router jig? I was also confused about your edge banding process. You showed how to apply edge banding using the 3M spray adhesive, but you also used an edge banding machine. Were you just demonstrating that it can be done without a machine for those who don't have one? Thanks and keep the videos coming.
I have a line boring machine. But i also use a kreg line hole jig on some cabinets as needed. The spray glue comes in handy when you forget a part or like the parts i did. They were for a lazy susan corner and i had to stop the banding part way through. Thanks for watching,,👍👍
Hi , great Vidoe i love your little tricks , wish i had have seen you Channel before , i been purchasing all the festool tools , stocking up , getting ready try build my own kitchen , I have the lamello buscuit joiner and the festool 700 , I know the festool too big for this kind of work , but that Ryobi is that a pin nailer or a stapler , looked so easy with that
@@SamJohnson-w1j thanks for watching I appreciate that. Over the years I've tried to simplify things as much as possible sometimes things just get overbuilt. The other thing is the reality is working alone my tools don't get used as hard so having tools like Ryobi work fine. They may not last as long but they'll do me for the rest of my career
You said that you were using a new particle board with a thicker melamine, but you didn't mention the product's name. Can you tell us what it is please?
Hi Jon. The melamine is from crown ply. They are based out of British Columbia with s wearhouse in Toronto as well. Im really happy with the quality of the board other then its a bit thicker than 5/8 so i had to make adjustments to the bottoms and rails
I have a few questions and a couple of comments. Thanks in advance for your response! 1) Does the TiteBond Melamine glue fuse the surfaces together like PVC cement? 2) I can buy 3/4" Melamine for less than 1/2 or 5/8. Is that overkill (too much weight, etc) for the box, doors, drawer fronts, and backs? 3) I was always concerned about screws pulling out of Melamine. Is the trick to use a larger head and coarse threads? 4) I was surprised that finish nails and glue would hold it all together! What size nails were used? 5) You really did a nice job going over the importance of everything being perfectly square. I don't have a jointer and my table saw is rather small, can you share any other tips for helping me achieve square cabinets using Melamine? Im planning to update my small shop and the difference in cost using Melamine is sizable, $27 to $40/sheet. I really appreciate your attention to detail! Thanks!
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me for 3/4-in melamine. I would go with that. I use 5/8 because I got a really good deal on a full lift. The glue that I use I'm not exactly sure how it bonds but it's not the same as PVC. Yes it is important to get all your parts nice and square. It just makes putting everything together that much easier. You can make some jigs and fixtures that work with a router or a skill saw if you had to. If you want to add a little bit more strength to your cabinets you can put some one and 3/4 number 6 screws into it if you pre drill
Henry, just catching up on your last three videos. As anticipated; the info is solid, delivery outstanding, and the editing .............perfect! keep'em coming ! Narrator: if you're reading this, and have any interest in woodworking, machinery rebuilds, or honest answers - SUBSCRIBE !!!!!!
was that a regular wood glue? does it hold tight? i was wondering if it would hold itself because the materials is plastic or pvc or whatever the laminate is made of and not the wood itself
@@blisteredoutlaw1993 those are some good questions I'm not sure what other materials would work with it. I've never really tried anything other than using it for melamine. I know for one thing the glue never goes super hard like some other glues. It might be a good temporary option for PVC that's a good thought
Hi You mentioned helical cutter head but it must have carbide cutters because i tried that solution to eliminate chipping on melamine before. Hss knives weren't very happy with me lol. The melamine done a number on them
Hi Jamie yes. It is a carbide helical cutter head. It was an absolute game changer when I finally purchased one. You can cut through particle board and melamine like it's butter. I remember trying to do that with high-speed steel and had the same results as you. If you're getting serious about woodworking it's definitely worth the money
There are two types of laminate blades. One is a triple chip blade the other is in high - ATB 80 tooth blade. There's a company called FS tool that makes this. This is the type of Blade I prefer. It will give you a decent cut on the back side of the melamine in one pass. The other blade is very good but you won't get a good cut on the back side. It works best with a scoring blade
Funny you mentioned that I hope to do a video segment on making a door with a melamine back and a solid wood front in a shaker style and then paint it. One of my suppliers actually makes five piece melamine doors with mitered corners
@@chrisryziuk685 i use 1 1/4 18 gauge nails. 1 1/2 16 gauge would be better because they dont deflect as much as 18 gauge. I just have a few to many boxes of 1 1/4
Hi Juan. I use just inch and a quarter 18 gauge nails. If I was using 16 gauge I would probably use an inch and a half. The nails are just there to hold it together while the glue dries. On larger cabinets I will put one screw by the front edge just to make sure that it doesn't get racked or moved. The glue is extremely strong when sits. And it has just a bit of flexibility
The upper cabinets get a light rail underneath that is screwed and that supports the lower shelf. The base toe kick sits underneath the base of the lower cabinets and supports that. The shelves I don't go over certain size and I don't ever have a problem with a sag. Once you go over 30 in it becomes a problem
That is a good question. If I'm painting the melamine what I do is put automotive bondo in the hole and then sand it and prime it and paint it. If it's small nail holes for installations I will sometimes use a white seam fill. Or for doing repairs. You can get this from industrial supplies or from your countertop supplier
I generally will take the cost of each cabinet would be one sheet of material whether that is plywood or melamine. Then I calculate how many doors I need whether I'm making them or ordering them I have to factor that in. Then I calculate all my drawers and how much time it takes to make one of those and the amount of material. Then I add in finishing and how much time it takes. Then moldings and panels and the finishing required on that. The last thing is a profit margin. Generally I try to be about 30%
@@jamesc4362 yes James but you have to use melamine glue. Tight bond has a really good brand. I assemble cabinets with this glue and all I do is glue and nail it.
Any tricks to clean corners on the edge banding? I’m doing a custom built in for a client right now, figured out the planer trick but still ended up needing filler
